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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 7 scott_o_reilly


    Hi there,

    I'm wondering if you could give me a ball park figure price. Iv purchased a house with no heating system at all. There is a chimney there.

    I'm wondering how much it would cost for basic stove with back boiler and radiators for 3 bed small house (old council house). Anybody break down these costs for me please and if plumber had a bare house, what the price would be.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    Hi All,
    Wondering if anyone has experience of Yeoman Devon or Stovax Stockton 8?? Looking for something with roughly 8kw output. Have narrowed it down to these two, already have a stovax Riva insert in another room and love it! Stoves make Yeoman also I think? Just wondering if anyone has comments for or against..? Pricewise the Stovax Stockton 8 is coming in €20 cheaper so very little in it! Thanks!

    We have a boru 500i insert stove and find it a very good stove... dont have any experience of the Yeoman or Stovax... Stovax have a very good name to be fair but I think the Boru is a more solid construction IMHO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    photo.php?fbid=756484644418099&set=p.756484644418099&type=1&theater
    buppydogs wrote: »
    Hi All,
    I'm looking for recommendations on a 20kw boiler stove please.
    I've seen the Henley, Hota, Boru and Hunter stoves - has anyone experience of any of these?
    Thank you

    limerick/cork area.
    thanks

    We have a Boru 20kw boiler stove fitted... its a multifuel but we burn only firewood so we removed the grate and lined the base with firebrick... very happy with it but I dont have any real experience of operating other stoves. A lot will depend on what you intend to burn in it... its not really a woodburner and if you were intending to burn firewood only I would suggest that you remove the grate... was not happy with it before we made the modifications, really happy with it now...photo.php?fbid=756484644418099&set=p.756484644418099&type=1&theater


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Stovax are one of the best stoves on the market.
    Boru are a decent stove but you cannot compare the two.There is no comparison in quality and efficency with the Stovax winning hands down.
    However it is a lot more expensive and possibly overpriced.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Stovax are one of the best stoves on the market.
    Boru are a decent stove but you cannot compare the two.There is no comparison in quality and efficency with the Stovax winning hands down.
    However it is a lot more expensive and possibly overpriced.

    Curiousity question Sanchez, what are the efficiency figures for the Stovax insert and Stovax boiler stoves? I think the Boru insert is 82% and the boiler stove is 77%... Both are multifuel which is clearly a disadvantage when burning firewood


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  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    Lads do eco Fans make much difference...?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    A Stovax Riva can be got either wood burning or multifuel.
    Don't know the Stovax efficiencies off the top of my head but normally over 80% and certification to prove it.
    I'd take Boru efficiencies with a pinch of salt as I have never seen an efficency cert from them.Again though,they are a decent stove.Im Just trying to emphasis you cannot compare the 2 brands.Its like comparing a Ferrari to an Opel.
    The fact that a stove is Irish made whether it's Boru or Yola or Inis means very little as there is no stove regulation here in Ireland.It may as well be made in Timbuctu.British made stoves are generally the best as there is tough legislation over there.Some very good Scandanavian stoves out there too.
    If I wanted to I can make a stove in my shed tomorrow and call it Irish made and start selling them.That doesn't make it a good product.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Eco fans can serve a purpose but only in certain situations.
    I use one myself as my stove is recessed into an Alcove fireplace.The fan moves the heat out into the Room rather than heating the walls of the alcove.
    They may also help move heat faster in an L shaped room or into a second room off the primary room.
    In a normal square room where the stove is sitting out on the hearth I then think the stove should be able to do the job on its own.
    The obvious negative is that in most situations you wouldn't be able to sit near the stove as you would melt from faster movement of heat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭k123456


    Jack180570 wrote: »
    photo.php?fbid=756484644418099&set=p.756484644418099&type=1&theater

    We have a Boru 20kw boiler stove fitted... its a multifuel but we burn only firewood so we removed the grate and lined the base with firebrick... very happy with it but I dont have any real experience of operating other stoves. A lot will depend on what you intend to burn in it... its not really a woodburner and if you were intending to burn firewood only I would suggest that you remove the grate... was not happy with it before we made the modifications, really happy with it now...photo.php?fbid=756484644418099&set=p.756484644418099&type=1&theater

    Hi Can you tell me bit more about removing the grate, I have a Boro Carraig Mor, with grate,

    I wont be burning coal,

    Will be burning Firewood only

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 bringastick


    Jack180570 wrote: »
    We have a boru 500i insert stove and find it a very good stove... dont have any experience of the Yeoman or Stovax... Stovax have a very good name to be fair but I think the Boru is a more solid construction IMHO

    Thanks Jack,
    It's all so confusing! We have found a Morso 3142, never used, for sale 2nd hand. Think we are going to go with that, it's a convection stove which I think might be better as our room is long and narrow with a high ceiling. I decided that if we had an 8kw radiant it would be too hot to sit in front of on the couch! Anyone any experience of Morso 3142 convection stove? Anyways think we are definitely going for it, fingers crossed it fits the bill!!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    A Stovax Riva can be got either wood burning or multifuel.
    Don't know the Stovax efficiencies off the top of my head but normally over 80% and certification to prove it.
    I'd take Boru efficiencies with a pinch of salt as I have never seen an efficency cert from them.Again though,they are a decent stove.Im Just trying to emphasis you cannot compare the 2 brands.Its like comparing a Ferrari to an Opel.
    The fact that a stove is Irish made whether it's Boru or Yola or Inis means very little as there is no stove regulation here in Ireland.It may as well be made in Timbuctu.British made stoves are generally the best as there is tough legislation over there.Some very good Scandanavian stoves out there too.
    If I wanted to I can make a stove in my shed tomorrow and call it Irish made and start selling them.That doesn't make it a good product.

    I think you are being a bit unfair to Boru because as I understand it all stoves are certified using the same EN standard when determining efficiencies. In addition Boru are now exporting to the US where their stoves have passed the stringent EPA emissions test for new generation high efficiency stoves.

    I do not own nor have I operated a Stovax stove and therefore I am not in a position to give an opinion based on experience.

    I agree that there are good UK manufactured stoves but to be fair, it is generally accepted that the best woodburning stoves on the market are the European brands due to their long history of woodburning and the sheer volume of firewood used for domestic heating.

    You are correct to say that you could start making stoves and selling them tomorrow, however, Boru stoves are certified and therefore meet a minimum standard regarding construction, efficiency and emissions.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    I dont think I am.
    You know Boru stoves.I know both brands and many others and would not in a million years compare the two.
    If somebody is looking for a good quality cassette stove at a reasonable price I would gladly recommend a Boru 600i.It is a decent product.
    But if somebody asked me for a high end quality cassette fire I would be recommending a Stovax Riva.
    As for CE certs,in reality once you pay for the test you will get the cert.
    There's a lot of junk out there with CE certs.
    If I had 3k to spare for the tests I could easily build a stove that would pass the certification in my shed.Its only a metal box with a glass front in reality that you put fuel in,light and allow air into.Leave a hole on the top for the smoke and bobs your uncle.,Sanchez stoves are born ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭rugbyman


    OLA!, VIva ze Stoves Sanchez....


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 Croftman


    Hi all

    I'm looking for some advice please. I'm looking into the possibility of putting a stove into a corner in the hallway of our home. My question is does any work need to be done to the walls around where the stove will be due to the heat that would be generated? They are standard plastered block walls. I would be raising the stove 1 or 2ft above the floor. I haven't looked into what kW/type of stove or anything like that yet.

    Thanks in advance


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    A lot of people are asking about Casette insert stoves. I can recommend Meg - a British made stove. We got ours from Oldens in Cork. I think they are the sole Irish distributor. Top quality stove and not as expensive as Stovax. I compared the Stovax with the Meg at the time and whereas i found the Meg solid and robust in all aspects, i found the Stovax a little fiddly. The Meg contemporary 4.5 insert throws out serious heat also. Recommended and one that goes under the radar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi guys sorry if this has already been covered but I'm looking at boiler stoves to heat 12-14 rads, stanley reginald looks like the dearest my question is are the stanley overpriced? i don't want to cheap out and regret it later, what other stoves compare to the reginald ? thanks in advance


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Hi guys sorry if this has already been covered but I'm looking at boiler stoves to heat 12-14 rads, stanley reginald looks like the dearest my question is are the stanley overpriced? i don't want to cheap out and regret it later, what other stoves compare to the reginald ? thanks in advance

    I would say the Stanley are mid-range in terms of price. Not the dearest in the market. Not the cheapest. They have a good reputation amongst any of the Irish plumbers i have spoken to. Stratford would be dearer for instance - also a good reputation. Then you have some of the more cheaper brands like Henley, Heritage, Olymberly, Mulberry, Blacksmith etc at the other end. Comparable stoves? I would look at Yola which has a 20kw stove that would fit the bill and is well priced. Boru Carraig Mor would be similar. Charnwood has a good reputation as well. Hunter is another one to look at though they have varying reviews. Nestor Martin have a very good name and I know a couple of people that have them and they are happy - though people are saying they are no longer in business but they can still be bought and parts wont be an issue as they share similar parts to Efel who are still in production.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Thats great info ta very much, its mind boggling reading reviews online its great to have a site like this where i can get genuine advise from people that aren't trying to sell something cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Thats great info ta very much, its mind boggling reading reviews online its great to have a site like this where i can get genuine advise from people that aren't trying to sell something cheers

    I was where you are now, 6 months ago. Looked at all the brands, read all the forums and talked to lots of plumbers/fitters/work colleagues. Everyone has to arrive at a conclusion that suits their own needs and the fun is in the learning. Its frustrating at times as this is probably one of rare areas where you possibly have too much choice but that also holds the chance of giving you exactly what you need if you get it right.

    Glad to help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Thats true, if i might ask you what stove did you settle on?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    buppydogs wrote: »
    Hi All,
    I'm looking for recommendations on a 20kw boiler stove please.
    I've seen the Henley, Hota, Boru and Hunter stoves - has anyone experience of any of these?
    Thank you

    limerick/cork area.
    thanks

    Out of that list i would favour Boru but I would also look at Yola (which I can recommend), Stratford (pricier but excellent build quality), Charnwood (good rep also). I would tend to focus on Irish/British and Scandinavian made.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Thats true, if i might ask you what stove did you settle on?

    20kw Yola in main living area doing 10 rads (at the moment) and a Meg Contemporary 4.5 Casette in the sittingroom. Very happy with both. The others I looked closely at were Stratford EB20 for the main one and a Villager Insert for the sittingroom. Im sure they would have been good also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    k123456 wrote: »
    Hi Can you tell me bit more about removing the grate, I have a Boro Carraig Mor, with grate,

    I wont be burning coal,

    Will be burning Firewood only

    Thanks

    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.403424226473715.1073741841.254379584711514&type=1&pnref=story

    Hope this works as I have been unable to attach photos...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭k123456


    Jack180570 wrote: »

    Many Thanks, just out of interest, do you find the stove more efficent after removing the grate


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    k123456 wrote: »
    Many Thanks, just out of interest, do you find the stove more efficent after removing the grate

    Your welcome, yes stove is far better after the modification in a number of ways.
    1. Fire lights up much quicker because the ash bed insulates the fire allowing it get to a good operating temperature more quickly.
    2. I am able to get a hotter fire because I have an extra 2 inches in height which allows the logs on the fire to insulate heat into the core of the fire.
    3. Higher efficiency - because the fire is hotter it is performing at higher efficiencies because it is able to burn the volatile compounds in the wood more completely rather than they going up the chimney unburnt.
    4. Additional efficiency in that small bits of char that are not entirely burned in say todays fire are burned in tomorrow's fire because the ash is only removed every few weeks.
    Its brilliant all round and is the technically correct way to burn when burning firewood only.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭k123456


    Jack180570 wrote: »
    Your welcome, yes stove is far better after the modification in a number of ways.
    1. Fire lights up much quicker because the ash bed insulates the fire allowing it get to a good operating temperature more quickly.
    2. I am able to get a hotter fire because I have an extra 2 inches in height which allows the logs on the fire to insulate heat into the core of the fire.
    3. Higher efficiency - because the fire is hotter it is performing at higher efficiencies because it is able to burn the volatile compounds in the wood more completely rather than they going up the chimney unburnt.
    4. Additional efficiency in that small bits of char that are not entirely burned in say todays fire are burned in tomorrow's fire because the ash is only removed every few weeks.
    Its brilliant all round and is the technically correct way to burn when burning firewood only.

    Ok, many Thanks will modify fine, are the fire bricks cemented to the bottom of the stove,
    or is it sufficient to lay then on the bottom, and cement around them. ie are they removable if I ever need to sell the stove


  • Registered Users Posts: 128 ✭✭Entonces


    Hi there, purchased a Charnwood 16b recently and haven't been getting much heat to rads at all from it. I think it's possibly plumbed incorrectly as the pump is on the cold water feed to the stove. Plumber says this is correct as hot water rises through convection and cold water is fed to system then to be heated. This makes little sense to me and my research on here tells me it's not right but maybe there's something I'm missing. Any help greatly appreciated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    k123456 wrote: »
    Ok, many Thanks will modify fine, are the fire bricks cemented to the bottom of the stove,
    or is it sufficient to lay then on the bottom, and cement around them. ie are they removable if I ever need to sell the stove

    Your welcome. .. firebricks are just laid on the bottom of the stove and that is sufficient.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭Dayo93


    Have my Henley achill fitted two weeks now (Non boiler) , have to say highly recommened, pumping the heat out. At the moment burning coal logs and briquettes , efficency is excellent , im now wearing shorts in winter and the moth is toasty.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,267 ✭✭✭concussion


    Hi folks,
    we're planning on slightly recessing a stand-alone stove into our existing fireplace (we much prefer the style of the stand-alone over an insert). We want to remove the iron fire surround and the fire-back and paint the interior of the fireplace and wall under the mantle white.

    Do we need to use a fire-board or fire-proof render treat the surface first or will a normal plaster do the job? The interior of the fireplace is bare concrete blocks while the wall underneath the mantle is plasterboard over blocks.

    Thanks for the help...I've been reading the thread and picked up a load of info but couldn't see anything specific to this!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi guys were having a boiler stove installed and we got a quote from the plumber, labour only 3500 euro that included stove installation and heat genie only. all other works to be completed by a builder. meaning all demo and reconstruction of the fire place area, what do you guys think of this price about right? or extortion thanks guys


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    Hi folks,

    After some research we are looking at fitting a Henley Apollo 5kW inset into our existing fireplace.
    A lot of the inset type stoves claim it's an easy DIY fit. But Henley don't. Now obviously they don't want any comeback for improperly fitted units. But if it was fitted by a competent person, whilst paying attention to the safety risk, properly sealing around the insert etc. Surely this would be ok.

    Our house is a few years old, chimney is in good condition. Room is ventilated and I would fit a CO alarm.

    Other units have a rope seal around the edge, a blot into the base of the unit and a clamp that holds against the inside of the chimney lintel. Is the Apollo fitted the same way?


    Edit:
    Looks like the Apollo needs the fireback to be removed, so that's not going to be an option. Back to the drawing board !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn




    Edit:
    Looks like the Apollo needs the fireback to be removed, so that's not going to be an option. Back to the drawing board !

    Popping out the fireback is the easiest part of fitting a stove.

    Obviously there may be reasons why you don't want to in your house.
    I presume there is? Otherwise I defo wouldn't look at fitting the stove yourself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    I don't want to remove the fireback as we plan to sell up and build a house in a few years. So I want to be able to put it back to a regular open fireplace.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,531 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    I don't want to remove the fireback as we plan to sell up and build a house in a few years. So I want to be able to put it back to a regular open fireplace.

    Do you not think a stove would add value compared to an open fireplace?

    It certainly would if I was the buyer!


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  • Site Banned Posts: 518 ✭✭✭eamon11


    hello folks,

    I have a big old aarow stove with was using the top exit for the flue.
    I now want to use the back opening where there is a plate to remove for it.
    BUT....there are no screws or visible slots or crevices to insert a lever to remove this. Also from the inside there is nothing.

    Anyone have one of these stoves?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    The newer aarrow stove plates and spigots remove by turning them ,
    Might be fire cement but its simple turn 90 degrees and align tongues with slots and should pop off...with little hammer and chisel to get it to turn..


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    buppydogs wrote: »
    Hi All,
    I'm looking for recommendations on a 20kw boiler stove please.
    I've seen the Henley, Hota, Boru and Hunter stoves - has anyone experience of any of these?
    Thank you

    limerick/cork area.
    thanks

    I was in the market for similar to what you want. I narrowed it down to a stratford Eb16 (which is 20+kw in total, 16 to water plus 3-9 to room), Yola 20kw and a Hunter Herald. The Stratford was the most expensive of the 3 at close to 2k but I went for the Yola on the recommendation of my plumber who really liked the design and liked the fact that there was a boiler chamber across the top of the firebox and the baffle was also made of thicker steel. Quite a big firebox in it so be prepared to burn fuel but the old adage you will see quoted many times on this thread is: fuel = heat and that seems to be the case no matter what machine you buy....

    If i was looking again,I would throw Inish into the mix but I didnt fancy the additional hassle of the double door (2 fire ropes, 2 bordered glasses to be cleaned, 2 that can be broken etc).


  • Registered Users Posts: 119 ✭✭arandale


    Hi, I'm installing an Inis Bofin solid fuel insert stove next week and what i'd like to know is this, I have an 8" flue in the chimney and do i need to go far up the chimney with the pipe from the stove and also do i need to seal round the pipe.

    Many thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    arandale wrote: »
    Hi, I'm installing an Inis Bofin solid fuel insert stove next week and what i'd like to know is this, I have an 8" flue in the chimney and do i need to go far up the chimney with the pipe from the stove and also do i need to seal round the pipe.

    Many thanks in advance.

    There is more to fitting a stove than that.
    With those questions please get a professional to fit it for you.
    There is safety (life) risks for you
    plus badly fitted stoves dont give out heat - for example have a read of recent threads on this forum


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    How long would it take most people's stoves to start chucking out heat?

    Is there much difference in time between free standing v insert?

    Would many leave it burning all night? I'd be a bit wary (with no good reason really), so just wondering if you come down in morning to freezing kitchen/diner how long before it heats up?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,242 ✭✭✭Galego


    kennyb3 wrote: »
    How long would it take most people's stoves to start chucking out heat?

    Is there much difference in time between free standing v insert?

    Would many leave it burning all night? I'd be a bit wary (with no good reason really), so just wondering if you come down in morning to freezing kitchen/diner how long before it heats up?

    I can only talk about insert (Henley Achill). In hour is in near to full output and has the room over 20 degrees. This is using wood.

    I’ve gone to bed few times with the stove still burning. The morning after stove is still warm and has the room reasonable warm (around 17 in comparison to the hall/kicthen which drops to 12/11 degrees).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,939 ✭✭✭goat2


    i got a bag of that kiln dried hardwood for the stove for the first time, trying it out this evening, is this long burning and does it give better heat than the softwoods


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭Forever21


    kennyb3 wrote: »
    How long would it take most people's stoves to start chucking out heat?

    Is there much difference in time between free standing v insert?

    Would many leave it burning all night? I'd be a bit wary (with no good reason really), so just wondering if you come down in morning to freezing kitchen/diner how long before it heats up?

    I have a freestanding stanley aoife in my kitchen /diner & a large bedroom & bathroom off that like a L shape . The house is never cold in the morning. Stive takes an hour to to throw out full heat . After that time it get very hot . I use a little over a half bucket of ecobrite stove coal a day & about two blocks & it's lighting when I go to bed at 11.30. Best money ever spent & my gas bills are about half of what they were & house was never as hot as it is now. Hope this helps


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭beatle


    Stove not heating room well!!

    We have had a Hunter Herald 8 flat top installed over 5 years but as we didn't live in the house the first couple of years ourselves we didn't realise how badly it performs (if we did we would have asked shop/installers to come back out to have a look at it and we can't now as the shop is gone).

    The draft is generally good but you could keep holding your hand on the top of it without burning your hand and the heat output is minimal even with a blazing fire. It is not connected to radiators but should be warming the room only.
    Sometimes it also lets out smoke when we open the door to put in more timber or nuggets.

    Do you think that it is not installed properly, or is it a really bad stove that we would be better off trying to change for another model?

    We have a much cheaper and smaller Chinese make stove in another room in the house which is soooo much better as the heat output is very good and the stove itself heats up really well (compared to the hunter stove that I could sit on top of without burning!).

    Any ideas of how to fix this, or have other people had similar experiences with this stove?

    PS. we have had to change the throat plate as the original one broke, and replaced it with a metal plate


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Bought the Henley Cambridge there last week. Was looking to get a plumber to put it in but will be waiting 6 weeks at least it seems from ringing around.
    No back boiler so will be a straightforward install.
    Really looking forward to the heat out if, have a very large fire op at the minute and its sucking heat up no end!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,463 ✭✭✭fifib


    anyone got any of the Thorma stoves? would love to hear reviews on them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 590 ✭✭✭sumo12


    Had our room heater stove installed last week. Flue goes straight up and out through single storey roof, turns 45 degrees back to existing second storey wall, another 45 turn and up over gutter (pitched roof) by about 60cm.

    All working great unless it's windy, when smoke gets driven out the vents of the stove and also appears to be coming out of twin wall flue at the join between single wall flue and the twin wall flue near the ceiling. This is a bit worrying as it fills the room with smoke and i had to let the stove go out. I have a vent in the room. Stove is pretty much unusable in this state.

    Is this a cowl issue? Wrong flue routing? Any ideas what might be causing this? I have called the installer this evening and wait patiently for his return visit (was waiting over a month for installation anyway!)

    Any opinions appreciated
    Sumo


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 boy4


    doing some renovations after christmas looking to put in a stove the room size is around 7 met by 4 met with a kitchen of that size 4 met by 4met want to heat 12 radiators aswell the wall the stove will be going on has no chimney could i bring the flue straight up the wall and out through the roof save me having to build a chimney what stove would you recommend your knowledge would be appreciated .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    Another question from me. Anyone know what has to be done to the back of the fireplace when going for a look like this

    http://www.lamartine-fireplaces.com/lamartinefireplaces/Main/Stove_Waterford_Oscar.htm

    Is it vermiculite board you'd need to ensure is installed or what is it called (remember it being called something beginning with S too)?

    Also how safe is it to be painted behind?


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