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Buying a used car in Ireland guide

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Comments

  • #2602
    Mr Moon
    Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,175 Mod ✭✭✭✭Mr Moon


    Anyone know a good car inspection crowd to use before buying?


  • #2603
    Manutd623
    Registered Users Posts: 77 ✭✭Manutd623


    Hi all,

    I'm buying a car next week and am just wondering the best/easiest way to pay for the car? I will be buying through a local garage.

    Is bank draft the best form of payment?

    Thanks in advance.


  • #2604
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Manutd623 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I'm buying a car next week and am just wondering the best/easiest way to pay for the car? I will be buying through a local garage.

    Is bank draft the best form of payment?

    Thanks in advance.

    For you it definitely is the best. You don't carry cash, the transaction leaves paper trail. Dealer should not have issues accepting it as well.


  • #2605
    Dashticle
    Registered Users Posts: 177 ✭✭Dashticle


    Mr Moon wrote: »
    Anyone know a good car inspection crowd to use before buying?

    Interested as well if there are any suggestions or recommendations please.

    Know feck all about cars


  • #2606
    beccaam94
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭beccaam94


    Hi,

    I was hoping someone might be able to help me.. I'm on the verge of buying a 2012 Mini Cooper 1.6D for 8K with 123,000 km through a garage. I did the cartell.ie check, and the car was imported from the UK in 2012. The Irish side of the report says that the car was manufactured in 2012, but the UK side of the report says that the car was manufactured in 2011.

    Can someone help shed some light on this?! Thanks in advance :)

    Also, I think the car is still registered to the person who traded/sold it to the garage instead of the garage itself. Why would that be? Is that cause for concern?


  • #2607
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    beccaam94 wrote: »
    I was hoping someone might be able to help me.. I'm on the verge of buying a 2012 Mini Cooper 1.6D for 8K with 123,000 km through a garage. I did the cartell.ie check, and the car was imported from the UK in 2012. The Irish side of the report says that the car was manufactured in 2012, but the UK side of the report says that the car was manufactured in 2011.

    Can someone help shed some light on this?! Thanks in advance :)

    In vast majority of cases, the car is manufactured in the previous year from what is shown in the Irish number plate.

    Irish plates are based on year of first registration.
    Also, I think the car is still registered to the person who traded/sold it to the garage instead of the garage itself. Why would that be? Is that cause for concern?

    Yes.

    The car should have been transferred to the dealer. Any self-respecting dealer will not have any issue doing so.


  • #2608
    beccaam94
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭beccaam94


    Hi Grogi,

    Thanks for your help! From the cartell check the car had one owner from 2012 until December 2016, where they traded/sold it to a garage, and was then bought privately in March 2017. The garage told me they only have this car for a few weeks, but that's still after giving them plenty of time to change ownership. So I'm not sure why they didn't do it... You have any insight into why they might not?

    I haven't seen the log book yet, but I'm assuming it's going to have the old owners name on it judging by the cartell report.

    I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, and this is the first 'nice' car I'll be buying so I really don't want to be taken for a ride. (Pun intended :) )


  • #2609
    DOSLUFC 92
    Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭DOSLUFC 92


    All help is much appreciated. Im currently on the look out for my first car but to tbh I havent a clue about cars which means I'm a bit nervous when it will come to parting with cash in case I buy a dud which will cost me more fixing it than what it is worth. What I want to know is what should I look out for when purchasing a second hand car and what should I expect to get if my budget is 2,500 to 3,000.
    Thanks again.


  • #2610
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    At this level I would very much think that you need to pick the right model to begin with. I would buy privately from the owner rather than from a small time dealer selling cars from their house.
    Insurance will be a factor so don’t go too old.
    Bringing a mechanic with you to check the car out will eat into your budget but would be worthwhile. I would involve the mechanic once you’ve gone to see the car and like it, bringing him to every potential car wouldn’t be that cost effective.

    I would look for something like a 1.0 Daihatsu Sirion / Subaru Justy as they are a very underrated car, are reliable and you should get a pretty modern one within budget. The Yaris would normally be my suggestion, but they’re making strong enough money and insurance isn’t kind to older cars these days.


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  • #2611
    DOSLUFC 92
    Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭DOSLUFC 92


    Thanks for the swift reply. I've been lookin at 07 vw polo 1.2 with 161,000 kms with a dealer for 3,000 but when I first enquired it was 3500. When I first had a look it I noticed a few scratches and W&T which is the norm however I did notice a little condensation in the left rear indicator light and when I further inspected there was a little crack. I said this to the salesman and kinda fobbed me sayin that he'll knock 200 off the asking price. Do you think this is a good car for the price or should I look else where. Thanks again for the reply it's much appreciated


  • #2612
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    DOSLUFC 92 wrote: »
    Thanks for the swift reply. I've been lookin at 07 vw polo 1.2 with 161,000 kms with a dealer for 3,000 but when I first enquired it was 3500. When I first had a look it I noticed a few scratches and W&T which is the norm however I did notice a little condensation in the left rear indicator light and when I further inspected there was a little crack. I said this to the salesman and kinda fobbed me sayin that he'll knock 200 off the asking price. Do you think this is a good car for the price or should I look else where. Thanks again for the reply it's much appreciated

    Polos are overrated junk in my opinion. I would look elsewhere to be honest. The dealers at this end of the market are usually a bit chancey, which is why I'd buy private. You might find something nice in a dealers, but remember they're better at selling than you are at buying.


  • #2613
    bazz26
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,289 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    I'd look at a Ford Fiesta 1.25 litre in that price range, much better than a similar Polo.


  • #2614
    Toyotafanboi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Lads I'm taking a bit of a leap of faith here and going to look at a car at Merlins.

    What is the story you can just rock up and view it any time, then you pay your deposit to get into the auction on the day?

    I understand you can't drive it but can you start it or is it purely a visual inspection and take your chances after that. It's (hopefully) a relatively cheap car but I'd hate to be badly stung.

    Do you have to take the car at the end of the auction or do you have a timeframe to take it away?


  • #2615
    Toyotafanboi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Might do a bit of a thread on it if I get the chance.

    Went up this morning, the whole experience was a breeze and the people in Merlins were excellent. I had the winning bid on the car but unfortunately it didn't meet it's reserve. The auctioneers even after the auction were keen to help to strike a deal between me and the owner but there was too much middle ground for me so I had to walk away.

    Disappointed not getting the car but the day out was good.


  • #2616
    Biggest lickspittle on boardz
    Closed Accounts Posts: 558 ✭✭✭Biggest lickspittle on boardz


    Mr Moon wrote: »
    Anyone know a good car inspection crowd to use before buying?


    Did you find someone in the end who was able to help you with this? I would also like to know if there is a website or list of car inspection mechanics that are prepared to undertake an inspection.

    I did find this website but they don't seem to answer the phone!

    http://www.assessireland.com


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  • #2617
    ELM327
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,213 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Toyotafanboi wrote: »
    Lads I'm taking a bit of a leap of faith here and going to look at a car at Merlins.

    What is the story you can just rock up and view it any time, then you pay your deposit to get into the auction on the day?
    You arrive any time within the opening hours. The viewing times are listed online. If you arrive within 1 hour or so of start time for the auction, you'll see the car being driven into the queue.
    Toyotafanboi wrote: »
    I understand you can't drive it but can you start it or is it purely a visual inspection and take your chances after that. It's (hopefully) a relatively cheap car but I'd hate to be badly stung.
    If you're there before the auction starts and you ask the attendants you can either start it and give it a rev etc or they will do it. Generally. Not sure if thats policy or just how it is, but I've been to quite a few merlins auctions and bought stuff there in my time.
    Toyotafanboi wrote: »
    Do you have to take the car at the end of the auction or do you have a timeframe to take it away?
    AFAIR it's 48 hours to remove the car.
    I've always removed mine directly after the auction, so i am not sure how strict they are on the timeframes.


  • #2618
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    Hi,

    Looking at buying a used 151 Hyundai i20 from a Main Dealer.

    Is it worth doing an online check on such a (relatively) new car? I imagine the answer is yes for peace of mind - but what's better to use, CarTell or MyWheels or MotorCheck?

    Is there anything to be wary of with this particular make/model? And any tips in general?

    Thanks!


  • #2619
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Yes, worth doing if spending a nice bit of money.


    Link to the ad?


  • #2620
    wilser
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭wilser


    Am going to ring up about both of these vans early next week, but before I do is there any thing I should be wary of with either of these vans?
    Which one would be the better buy? Not really clued in where cars are concerned so any advice greatly appreciated.

    https://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/renault-master-iii-fwd-mm33-100-comfort-inc-vat/16529587


    https://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/ford-transit-2013/17130969


  • #2621
    sashab
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭sashab


    What car would you recommend of this:

    BMW Series 5 (2010-2011)
    Mercedes E Class (2011)
    Audi A5 (2009-2011)
    Mercedes C Class (2008-2010)

    Thanks


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  • #2622
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I’d have the E class, then A5 (provided it was a good spec) then C Class, then 5 series. I’d go as far to avoid the 5 series.


  • #2623
    sashab
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭sashab


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I’d have the E class, then A5 (provided it was a good spec) then C Class, then 5 series. I’d go as far to avoid the 5 series.

    Thanks, could you provide more details? Why E class and why not 5 series? When you have time. Thanks


  • #2624
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I don’t find the 5 that comfortable, there’s the worry about timing chains, they go through brake discs which are horrendous money quite quickly, and they’ve just got very common. The E class won’t be as engaging to drive but it seems more classy and it’s definately more comfortable.


  • #2625
    sashab
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭sashab


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I don’t find the 5 that comfortable, there’s the worry about timing chains, they go through brake discs which are horrendous money quite quickly, and they’ve just got very common. The E class won’t be as engaging to drive but it seems more classy and it’s definately more comfortable.

    Thank you and from your experience what are lowest point for Mercedes E and Audi A5? Thanks a lot.


  • #2626
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    Is it worth doing a paid reg check when buying a used car from a prominent main dealer?

    Also, should there be an scepticism on buying a 142 with just under 10k km (petrol) again from a prominent main dealer?


  • #2627
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Yeah do one anyway. I’d check that it got its annual service as it mightn’t have had an oil change in 4 years.


  • #2628
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Have you a link to the ad?


  • #2629
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Have you a link to the ad?

    We put a holding deposit on it today and the ad has been taken down. Still have to see the service history and make sure it's as described, but deposit is refundable if not up to scratch so not too worried.

    It's a 142 Golf 1.2 TSI 105BHP M5F, Highline.

    We're not big drivers at all and rarely venture outside of Dublin, so would be surprised if we added more than 5k km per annum to it. Still, we wanted something with low milage and good interior + exterior spec so that it retains some resale or trade in value in a few years.

    Happy to take on board any advice/feedback/suggestions.


  • #2630
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Deffo make sure it’s been serviced aside from the he one it’ll have got for the sale. These 1.2 turbos can give timing chain issues so I’d imagine a service history will help.


  • #2631
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    Actually something I've picked up on the Car Tell report.

    Since 2014, it was taxed 3 years in a row for 12 months at a time:

    June 2014 - June 2015
    June 2015 - June 2016
    June 2016 - June 2017

    Then it was taxed for 3 months:

    June 2017 - End of September 2017.

    Then it wasn't taxed again until the end of November, for 4 months covering the back tax, last up to the end of January:

    So, legally the car was off the road from the end of September to the end of November, is that correct?

    Are either of these a cause for concern -
    (1) The fact that the car was not taxed / off the road for 2 months
    (2) The taxing cycle changed from regular year long tax discs to short term tax discs? (Car has only had 1 owner)

    There was also 2 CarTell requests done on the car - one in July, one in December - both down as "Trade" customer types.

    Thanks for any advice!


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  • #2632
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    99 Bortles of Beer wrote: »
    Thanks for any advice!

    In July 2017 the owner went to the dealer to see what they could upgrade for. The dealer did a cartel and promised to deliver a new car by the end of September. When the delivery was delayed and delayed, the owner got fed up and decided they are going to wait to get 181 reg, hence taxed the car again.


  • #2633
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    grogi wrote: »
    In July 2017 the owner went to the dealer to see what they could upgrade for. The dealer did a cartel and promised to deliver a new car by the end of September. When the delivery was delayed and delayed, the owner got fed up and decided they are going to wait to get 181 reg, hence taxed the car again.

    Sounds feasible. Why would someone upgrade after 4 years after only putting less than 10k miles on the 142 though? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to dot all I's and cross all T's :)


  • #2634
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    People are strange.


  • #2635
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 25,611 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    99 Bortles of Beer wrote: »
    Sounds feasible. Why would someone upgrade after 4 years after only putting less than 10k miles on the 142 though? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to dot all I's and cross all T's :)
    You're new here. :pac:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057824853

    There's a guy who trades up his focus every year for the new reg. People are very strange.


  • #2636
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    Stupid question. "Dijon" alloys for a Hold - is this referring to a colour or model/style? :o


  • #2637
    grogi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    99 Bortles of Beer wrote: »
    Stupid question. "Dijon" alloys for a Hold - is this referring to a colour or model/style? :o

    Those are Dijon alloys

    thumb_proimage_720_520_IMG_4825.jpg


  • #2638
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    Thanks Gorgi - that's what I thought, and that's what I expected when we were told the car had dijon alloys - just wanted to make sure I was correct in that assumption! Instead, it had these:

    s-l300.jpg

    Which I just don't like at all.

    Looks like the sale has fallen through, as when I put it to them that we put the deposit down having been told it had dijon alloys and that's what we wanted - they won't budge. Told us that they "had miscalculated the price anyway, and were actually selling at a loss and if we pull out, it'll be relisted at a higher price tomorrow".

    Which I'm sure gets trotted out all the time, but ultimately I don't care what condition the car is in or what great milage it has - if it doesn't have the spec we want, then the condition is irrelevant.

    Thanks for your advice too Colm. I'll be back to annoy ye when we find another car!


  • #2639
    99 Bortles of Beer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 269 ✭✭99 Bortles of Beer


    Sounds like we dodged a bullet on that one. My partner went to look at the car today, with the intent of either getting them down on price due to the alloys not being as advertised (not only were they not the style that was advertised, but they were also only 16" instead of 17" like we were told) or having our deposit refunded.

    She was tempted to go ahead with the purchase anyway, until she asked to see the full service history. He said he didn't have it, that MSL serviced the car and he'd have to get it off them and they usually wouldn't release that info. When she asked did he not have a service book to show the details, he said he didn't have it to hand - this was at the showroom with the car parked outside. He kept asking her if the service history was a dealbreaker (!!!) and countered by saying their pre-sale service would be fully detailed.

    He kept glossing over the fact he didn't have the service history, and then had the gall to tell her that as it was only less than 10,000km that it wouldn't even have needed a service. And that sure we had a 12 month warranty on it if we bough it anyway! She reminded him that it was a 4 year old car, and a regular service was an absolute must and a certain dealbreaker.

    All this after he had assured us when we put the deposit down that it had a full service history :rolleyes:

    Add all that to the fact that he turned on the radio when she sat in to test drive it, and that it made some funny sounds while the salesman drove it too (which he attributed to him "not being used to driving a manual")...... yeah, I think we dodged a lemon there.

    Very disappointing from a main dealer. When she told me all the above, I phoned them and asked for a refund of our deposit immediately. Will be taking our business elsewhere.


  • #2640
    RobFowl
    Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 11,668 Mod ✭✭✭✭RobFowl


    Been looking at some SUV's and wondering what difference getting a jeep with commercial tax would mean, am just a regular Joe Soap and would I have to change it or what??


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  • #2641
    gandalfio
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 812 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    Hi. I'm considering buying a 1.7 petrol Hyundai i40. Any advice or experience of this car? Reliability, Mpg etc.
    It's hard to find details online as the petrol version was discontinued a few years ago and there aren't many around.


  • #2642
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Are you talking about a crewcab Robfowl?


  • #2643
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    gandalfio wrote: »
    Hi. I'm considering buying a 1.7 petrol Hyundai i40. Any advice or experience of this car? Reliability, Mpg etc.
    It's hard to find details online as the petrol version was discontinued a few years ago and there aren't many around.

    That would be the same 1.6 GDI engine as in the Veloster and the current Tucson as well as the Ioniq and Kia Niro hybrids.
    There aren’t that many out there, but certainly as with a lot of other GDI type engines there are problems with carbon buildup documented in other countries. This can be down to poor fuel or oil making its way into the inlet manifold. Not sure what the chances of this being a problem are.


  • #2644
    RobFowl
    Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 11,668 Mod ✭✭✭✭RobFowl


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Are you talking about a crewcab Robfowl?

    Yes though one other lad is trying to tell me a 2 seater Land Rover can just bolt on a few seats if needed as well


  • #2645
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    RobFowl wrote: »
    Yes though one other lad is trying to tell me a 2 seater Land Rover can just bolt on a few seats if needed as well

    Not that simple, you’d have to pay VRT as a passenger car on it. Likely to be at one of the highest rates (36% of the passenger version open market selling price unless passenger VRT was originally paid, say if it was converted from an Irish reg passenger to commercial)


  • #2646
    gandalfio
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 812 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    That would be the same 1.6 GDI engine as in the Veloster and the current Tucson as well as the Ioniq and Kia Niro hybrids.
    There aren’t that many out there, but certainly as with a lot of other GDI type engines there are problems with carbon buildup documented in other countries. This can be down to poor fuel or oil making its way into the inlet manifold. Not sure what the chances of this being a problem are.

    Thanks for the reply. It's difficult to narrow it down when there's so many makes and models out there. My main requirements are solid reliability and decent Mpg. Something around the same size as the i40 but no smaller than the i30. Petrol.

    Is there an Irish website out there which details studies done on the Irish car market and tables detailing reliability etc?


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  • #2647
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    gandalfio wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply. It's difficult to narrow it down when there's so many makes and models out there. My main requirements are solid reliability and decent Mpg. Something around the same size as the i40 but no smaller than the i30. Petrol.

    Is there an Irish website out there which details studies done on the Irish car market and tables detailing reliability etc?

    What’s your budget?


  • #2648
    gandalfio
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 812 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    What’s your budget?

    12k max


  • #2649
    Urindanger
    Closed Accounts Posts: 246 ✭✭Urindanger


    Hi there. Looking to buy my first car in a few weeks depending if I pass my test which is soon... Budget wise, probably 6k max but wouldn't sweat a few extra hundred for the right car. Between the 4-6k mark would be golden, obviously not looking for a complete bucket. Looking for the standard 08+, less than 130km, less than 400 tax wise.

    What brands should I be looking out for and what should I be looking to avoid?

    Any tips on what specs I should be looking out for?

    Astras and Focuses seem to be catching my eye from the little searching I have been doing.


  • #2650
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,477 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Look at a little Ceed/Hyundai i30 if you want something focus sized with low tax. I wouldn’t bother looking at Focuss. They’re just a mine field.


  • #2651
    Tipsy McSwagger
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,068 ✭✭✭Tipsy McSwagger


    Is it normal to be really nervous when buying a car for over 10K? Just asking as my first car was only €1200 but is on the way out now. I think it's because it will be the most expensive purchase I've ever made.


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