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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 177 ✭✭Westernworld.


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Assuming the legs aren’t adjustable...
    Dab of heat resistant silicone under the legs.

    I mean to stop it sliding ,not a height adjustment


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,411 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Forge83 wrote: »
    There will be a top baffle inside the stove that can be removed for access to the flue.

    Hi Forge, can you please clarify the process to measure the vacuum? Can the front door be open for this test?
    Is there a cheapish device that I can get to do this measurement?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭jc bamford


    Planning to get a Henley Apollo insert stove installed. The wife would prefer a cream ceramic one but the installer is adamant that the paint on these chips very easily and that they become shabby very quickly. He is recommending the Matt black. Anyone have any views on this???
    We have a brown enamel Henely Scellig free standing stove for last 7 or 8 years and there is not a mark on it


  • Registered Users Posts: 16 gameoverman


    We have a 6kw Vitae cassette stove installed a few years now, hole-in-the-wall style with the 4 sided trim. We now want to restyle the room to put a simple fireplace around it instead. So our idea is to remove the trim and surround the stove with 20mm black granite instead. Just curious if anyone has done similar?

    Slight concern is that the granite would sit just outside the frame whereas the trim kindof slots into it, so final look might not be as tidy?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 687 ✭✭✭mrtom


    Hi Forge, can you please clarify the process to measure the vacuum? Can the front door be open for this test?
    Is there a cheapish device that I can get to do this measurement?


    This small device it placed up against the Air intake of a roaring fire with door closed to get a reading. Your stove manual may have the recommended max & min values in hectopascal hPa.

    My experience with installer attempting to ID cause of smoking stove. The supplier fitted a shorter baffle with no improvement in my case. Good luck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,093 ✭✭✭stevek93


    Hi all,

    This may sound stupid but here goes :D I got a multi flue stove recently, I am trying not to burn coal in it or very little and just logs.

    I was thinking if I was to keep the coal burning on top of the logs for as long as possible instead of sitting on the grate and burning would I get a longer life out of the grate? or should I continue not to use coal to increase the lifespan of the grate?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    stevek93 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    This may sound stupid but here goes :D I got a multi flue stove recently, I am trying not to burn coal in it or very little and just logs.

    I was thinking if I was to keep the coal burning on top of the logs for as long as possible instead of sitting on the grate and burning would I get a longer life out of the grate? or should I continue not to use coal to increase the lifespan of the grate?

    Coal and wood should not be burned together. Coal burns at a hotter temperature and just eat through the wood. They also mix poorly and produce a solution which will destroy your stove and chimney.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 219 ✭✭TTTT


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Coal and wood should not be burned together. Coal burns at a hotter temperature and just eat through the wood. They also mix poorly and produce a solution which will destroy your stove and chimney.

    I disagree. Coal and DRY wood burn very well together. The wood ignites earlier and helps too ignite the coal gasses which leads to a cleaner burn.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    stevek93 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    This may sound stupid but here goes :D I got a multi flue stove recently, I am trying not to burn coal in it or very little and just logs.

    I was thinking if I was to keep the coal burning on top of the logs for as long as possible instead of sitting on the grate and burning would I get a longer life out of the grate? or should I continue not to use coal to increase the lifespan of the grate?

    There is no need to mix coal and logs as you will get all the heat you need from the coal without the need to open the door to put in a log and getting a waft of smoke into the room.If you have a ferrari,you dont drive it like a lada to get a few more years out of it....I burn coal only and have never burnt out a grate yet,its not a common problem and easy to fix if you are unlucky with a poor grate.
    There is no problem mixing coal and logs if you want but only if you have a flexi flue installed to stop any build up of creosote in an unlined chimney.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,093 ✭✭✭stevek93


    Thanks all, yes I have kiln dried logs <20% moisture if even any moisture at all. The chimney is lined with flexi.

    What I do is put the logs on the bottom and a little bit of coal on top of the logs and I get a much longer burn and heat output.

    I bought one of those fans to sit on top of the stove they are fantastic at sending the heat around the house.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,966 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    stevek93 wrote: »
    Thanks all, yes I have kiln dried logs <20% moisture if even any moisture at all. The chimney is lined with flexi.

    What I do is put the logs on the bottom and a little bit of coal on top of the logs and I get a much longer burn and heat output.

    I bought one of those fans to sit on top of the stove they are fantastic at sending the heat around the house.

    But nuggets or ovids or a mix of both. Neither burn as a high a temperature as some coals. I start my fire with a mixture of nuggets and timber. And then all timber. However I have my own timber.

    Are you buying the timber in small bags it crazy if you are. Buy in bulk

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,093 ✭✭✭stevek93


    But nuggets or ovids or a mix of both. Neither burn as a high a temperature as some coals. I start my fire with a mixture of nuggets and timber. And then all timber. However I have my own timber.

    Are you buying the timber in small bags it crazy if you are. Buy in bulk

    I got recently 2.2m3 of logs stacked for 360e delivered :)


  • Posts: 8,856 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I was out walking in an estate of houses the other evening- I smelt a very strange smell coming from a particular house chimney- I’m trying to think what it smelt like- vaguely it’s similar to “fart spray” that you might find in a joke shop- that’s probably the closest I can describe it- so wondering what they’re burning? Do those lighter logs you find in supermarkets give off an iffy smell or can you think what it might be? Maybe it was treated wood? Smell was quite unpleasant


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,966 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    stevek93 wrote: »
    I got recently 2.2m3 of logs stacked for 360e delivered :)

    Is that form Dairygold

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,093 ✭✭✭stevek93


    I was out walking in an estate of houses the other evening- I smelt a very strange smell coming from a particular house chimney- I’m trying to think what it smelt like- vaguely it’s similar to “fart spray” that you might find in a joke shop- that’s probably the closest I can describe it- so wondering what they’re burning? Do those lighter logs you find in supermarkets give off an iffy smell or can you think what it might be? Maybe it was treated wood? Smell was quite unpleasant

    Maybe rubbish?


  • Registered Users, Subscribers, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,162 ✭✭✭hometruths


    anybody know of a stove fitter in North Wicklow/south Dublin who could fit a replacement stove asap - i.e this week?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,093 ✭✭✭stevek93


    Is that form Dairygold

    Coopsuperstores? No I got the logs from bioglow but when I check their site now they are sold out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Handballollie


    Hi. I have a boring chieftain inset boiler stove. I noticed recently that it seems to have move outwards on one side about 5mm or so. It’s not possible that someone could have pulled it out so I’m thinking heat has led to this. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue with inset stoves?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,407 ✭✭✭positron


    positron wrote: »
    I am currently DIY'ing a gas cassette stove with ceramic blanket around it - it's just in the wall today, waiting for gas guy to come and connect it.

    Just wondering if the ceramic blanket can go on top of the stove (as well as the back and sides) - I can't remember if the specialist shop I bought the ceramic blanket said to not to put in on the top or not... something about bonding resin gassing off and the blanket settling onto the stove..

    Just putting this here for future reference if anyone is looking thru this thread...

    Local stove place adviced not to put ceramic blanket on the top of the stove. Just sides and back. It was installed soon after, and there was a strong smell for about three - four weeks, which is from the ceramic blanket's bonding resin evaporating or whatever. I was a bit worried about it at first to be honest, but now, a month later, there's no more smell, and there's tons of heat coming out of the stove. Loving the overall result.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,093 ✭✭✭stevek93


    Anyone know how I would go about getting a damper put on my flue? I want to limit the amount of air coming down the chimney, with the breeze outside now the fire is struggling to keep lit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,244 ✭✭✭limnam


    stevek93 wrote: »
    Anyone know how I would go about getting a damper put on my flue? I want to limit the amount of air coming down the chimney, with the breeze outside now the fire is struggling to keep lit.

    Could be wrong but I was under the impression you can't use them now due to regs. Would need to double check that though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    limnam wrote: »
    Could be wrong but I was under the impression you can't use them now due to regs. Would need to double check that though.

    You are correct.
    They increase the chance of a blockage which could lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,411 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    What device do I need to measure the vacuum in a chimney flue?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    What device do I need to measure the vacuum in a chimney flue?

    A draught meter.
    https://www.orielflues.com/portfolio/draught-gauges/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭jprboy


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.

    My parents got a stove fitted a few years ago in a very old house - always had an open fire prior to this.

    Some time last year they began to notice a smell of smoke upstairs. My father put his hand on the upstairs chimney breast and pulled it away immediately from a red hot surface!!!

    Called the local Fire Service out straight away and by all accounts they were magnificent in how they handled the whole thing. Drilled a large hole through the upstairs chimney breast and found that the fire was eating its way out from the chimney and total conflagration was imminent...... (well, if you burn your hand on a chimney breast it doesn't look good!)

    The company who installed the stove obviously didn't do a very good job, duh! My parents didn't go back to them about it (told them they should) and they got another outfit to sort it - they were hugely impressed with them.

    I know it's the coldest time of the year and a lot of companies are on holidays but it might be advisable to stop using the stove until you get it checked out.

    Best of luck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    jprboy wrote: »
    My parents got a stove fitted a few years ago in a very old house - always had an open fire prior to this.

    Some time last year they began to notice a smell of smoke upstairs. My father put his hand on the upstairs chimney breast and pulled it away immediately from a red hot surface!!!

    Called the local Fire Service out straight away and by all accounts they were magnificent in how they handled the whole thing. Drilled a large hole through the upstairs chimney breast and found that the fire was eating its way out from the chimney and total conflagration was imminent...... (well, if you burn your hand on a chimney breast it doesn't look good!)

    The company who installed the stove obviously didn't do a very good job, duh! My parents didn't go back to them about it (told them they should) and they got another outfit to sort it - they were hugely impressed with them.

    I know it's the coldest time of the year and a lot of companies are on holidays but it might be advisable to stop using the stove until you get it checked out.

    Best of luck.

    Thanks but this is only warm to the touch, it’s nowhere near hot and it’s only in parts on the breast.

    It has a 904 flexi flue liner installed and have been only burning kiln dried wood and is only installed less than a year so can’t imagine any build up of combustible material.

    Guy is coming after Christmas anyway about something else and will quiz him then.

    Glad your folks were sorted. What a pain for them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.

    Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Car99 wrote: »
    Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.

    Yep replaced the OF with insert stove. That was my thoughts on it too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,411 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83



    Yes looks like the same thing more or less.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,212 ✭✭✭chris_ie


    I have a Stanley Erin boiler stove. Lifted the top plate (one secured with bolts) and replaced the stove rope, it was missing in places and badly worn. Notice that even with primary and secondary air open now, it’s doesn’t burn as much meaning sometimes I need to open the grate door to kick it off when it dies down too much.

    For the top plate, does the rope go all the way around? I imagined it did but the ‘track’ for the rope didn’t seem to be there on the bends at the corners. Can’t imagine the rope would only be for the straight edges...

    Its likely just that we’re used the more air getting in before and burning up that bit more. But it’s a bit of a pain at times needing to open the grate door of fire starts smouldering. Only started after I did the rope. No chimney issue from what I can tell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,966 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    chris_ie wrote: »
    I have a Stanley Erin boiler stove. Lifted the top plate (one secured with bolts) and replaced the stove rope, it was missing in places and badly worn. Notice that even with primary and secondary air open now, it’s doesn’t burn as much meaning sometimes I need to open the grate door to kick it off when it dies down too much.

    For the top plate, does the rope go all the way around? I imagined it did but the ‘track’ for the rope didn’t seem to be there on the bends at the corners. Can’t imagine the rope would only be for the straight edges...

    Its likely just that we’re used the more air getting in before and burning up that bit more. But it’s a bit of a pain at times needing to open the grate door of fire starts smouldering. Only started after I did the rope. No chimney issue from what I can tell.

    I have a Stanley Eirn as well nearly 30 years old now. Surprised rope burnt on top plate. Yes it goes all around. On the RHS of stove at the back there is a damper control. On our when it went in it was in the way so it was removed and silver knob only left. You should be able to adjust that to control air flow into stove.

    Inside the stove the back baffle can be in two positions. Ideally it should be towards the front. Obviously if you had the top plate off you cleaned any soot behind boiler away.

    I say adjust the side damper. At present it is 90% wood I burn in it. It is well dried out. It is still heating rads and room if kept fairly full.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭ebayissues


    Hey All,


    What modern stove would guys recommend? I have been looking at the scandi looking ones but being told it's not that effiicient and was recommended fireline/vitae 6kw.



    Could I get a PM for a reliable supplier & installer?


    Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭Summer2020


    ebayissues wrote: »
    Hey All,


    What modern stove would guys recommend? I have been looking at the scandi looking ones but being told it's not that effiicient and was recommended fireline/vitae 6kw.



    Could I get a PM for a reliable supplier & installer?


    Cheers

    Would appreciate a pm for a reliable supplier and installer in Dublin too also.
    Presently have a gas fire which I don’t use with an open chimney, awful draughty and find the room very hard to get warm with the radiators.
    Will a stove fix the draught issue? Do stoves essentially block up the potential for heat to escape from the room up the chimney?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    Summer2020 wrote: »
    Would appreciate a pm for a reliable supplier and installer in Dublin too also.
    Presently have a gas fire which I don’t use with an open chimney, awful draughty and find the room very hard to get warm with the radiators.
    Will a stove fix the draught issue? Do stoves essentially block up the potential for heat to escape from the room up the chimney?

    Thanks

    If its installed correctly yes they do stop the draught to a great extent. I presume you want an insert stove to go in the fireplace . I have a stanley cara non boiler insert stove and I find it good for my requirements mostly to block the chimney draught.


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭Summer2020


    Car99 wrote: »
    If its installed correctly yes they do stop the draught to a great extent. I presume you want an insert stove to go in the fireplace . I have a stanley cara non boiler insert stove and I find it good for my requirements mostly to block the chimney draught.

    Yeah if it’s an insert stove that will stop the heat escaping from the room. To be honest the stove itself would only be occasionally used. It’s mainly to “block up” the chimney and stop the heat loss.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    Summer2020 wrote: »
    Yeah if it’s an insert stove that will stop the heat escaping from the room. To be honest the stove itself would only be occasionally used. It’s mainly to “block up” the chimney and stop the heat loss.

    Try a chimney balloon first before you spend money on a stove.
    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/chimney-flue-balloon.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Car99 wrote: »
    Did you replace the open fire with an insert stove or free standing stove? Stoves are a big block of metal that transfer heat in to anything near them. Where your open fire was pumping most of its heat straight out the chimney the stove metal heats up and gives the heat to the house which your chimney breast will soak up and turns the chimney breast into a heat radiator if the stove is lighting long enough.

    If there was sufficient vermiculite in place between the flue and the existing chimney would you still get this radiated heat? Or is it a sign that there is no vermiculite in place?


  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anybody with a two story house getting a warm chimney breast in the room above where the stove is?

    Is this safe?

    Is it a sign there might not be vermiculite between the flue liner and the actual chimney pot?? The chimney breast in upstairs room never used to get warm when I had an open fire.

    I'm in the same situation have a Henley arklow insert stove flue installed 3 years ago just had chimmey swep its flexi lined and filled with vermiculite the morning after the chimney breast downstairs and in my bedroom upstairs has a warm feel to it and is still there now even at 6.30 haven't lit it yet.. Must admit had a belter of a fire going last night..


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    I'm in the same situation have a Henley arklow insert stove flue installed 3 years ago just had chimmey swep its flexi lined and filled with vermiculite the morning after the chimney breast downstairs and in my bedroom upstairs has a warm feel to it and is still there now even at 6.30 haven't lit it yet.. Must admit had a belter of a fire going last night..

    Isnt it great the wall becomes a heat sink and keeps giving out heat for hours after.


  • Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭whodafunk


    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,966 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    The more air that goes into a stove the more heat that goes up a chimney. After a stove starts to burn it should be closed down to minimum air intake. This achieves a static burn that throws out heat.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 194 ✭✭Maximus_1


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    Depends too on the size of the room. We have a 6kw Vitae insert since October and once it gets going room is toasty. It's about 4m X 4m. Standard height ceiling of 8ft. After about 20 or 30 mins I can turn it well down and it burns slowly. Using briquettes like yourself. I assume once it's fitted properly and it's the correctly sized it should be working better but I'm no expert


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    I have a stanley cara in a 15 x 18ft room. My experience is this insert stove wont throw out heat in the same way as you got from a large roaring open fire but it also only consumes a fraction of the fuel a roaring open fire would consume. I find the cara has to be got up to a good temp before you will notice it heating the room . Once it is up to temp you just have to keep it ticking over adjusting your air dampers to suit. I use a mixture of wood and smokeless stove coal. I dont think peat briquettes are a good fuel for a stove , too much ash and dont burn very hot for very long.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    The more air that goes into a stove the more heat that goes up a chimney. After a stove starts to burn it should be closed down to minimum air intake. This achieves a static burn that throws out heat.

    I find the glass gets dirty easily unless I have top damper open a good bit (this with birch, burned oak before and didn’t have as much an issue, much easier to control)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    whodafunk wrote: »
    Hi All,

    I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

    Thank you

    You can have all the controls fully open with coal and it will last much longer than briquettes and give out a lot more heat,,,,refueling is less often too.You may need to light the stove earlier as inserts are slower to give out heat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 329 ✭✭cathy427


    One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap.

    Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    cathy427 wrote: »
    One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap.

    Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?

    It’s the same stove as a Heritage Pollmore or a Mazona Portland.
    Try contacting shops which sell these for a grate.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    cathy427 wrote: »
    One bar on the grate of my henley apollo has burnt away leaving a gap.

    Everywhere is sold out of the replacement grates at the moment - is there any kind of generic temporary product I could slot in?

    A bit of good quality 1/2 !square mesh would keep you ticking over for a bit or a bit of re bar depending on size of the hole


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