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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 872 ✭✭✭magicray


    Just wondering would anyone have any idea how much fitting would be for a Henley 6k stove, I have the stove already and have had my chimney cleaned

    Its going into my fireplace in place of the open fire

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 272 ✭✭Twigster


    How's it going, Thinking of getting a stove installed, but just wondering about ventilation in the room. We currently have an open fire, which is piped for gas but not connected. Current ventilation is through open vents in the windows. These are fixed and can not be closed. Any advice on if we would need to put a vent in the wall or if the window vents are sufficient?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭youngblood


    Had insert fitted recently, noticed upstairs chimney breast was still warm the following morning. This normal?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    You would have to measure size of open vent in window to see if they met requirements for stove.
    It all depends on what kW output your stove/ fireplace is so, you can refer to building regs then and see what open unrestricted air vent you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 272 ✭✭Twigster


    rpmcs wrote: »
    You would have to measure size of open vent in window to see if they met requirements for stove.
    It all depends on what kW output your stove/ fireplace is so, you can refer to building regs then and see what open unrestricted air vent you need.

    Thanks for that, house built in 2007 ish, based on looking those up the ventilation for a 5kw stove would be the same for an open fire. I'll confirm with installer at time though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Twigster wrote: »
    Thanks for that, house built in 2007 ish, based on looking those up the ventilation for a 5kw stove would be the same for an open fire. I'll confirm with installer at time though.

    Generally speaking if you currently have a vent in the room it will be large enough
    It must be non closeable


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭k123456


    Hi Fellow stovers, looking for advice on how best to seal the joins between toop of stove and Flu, and also the sections in the Flu. The original seal lasted about three years , and I recently resealed with fire cement. As can be seen from the pics, this is flaking away after a few weeks use. What is the best seal to use please Thank You400492.jpg400493.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭crxsi09


    Hi i have a 5kw efel oil stove.the flame when burning is always orange.i have a bigger nestor martin too and that runs perfect, nice blue flame etc.someone i know also has the same small one as me so i know how it should run.
    I got someone out to look at it and he adjuated oil flow and use the air gauge.he put bit of cement around the pipe underneath the pot where the cables go into the igniror element.
    Noticed difference ataright away.it went more blue.so obviously air leak.
    However its still very orange, im wonderimg where else could there he an air leak?
    I have new wick seals all over the stove ao not them. Im thinking xould there be a leak in some inaccessible area or somewhere else?
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    connundrum wrote: »
    Howdy,

    I have a small shed/games room (25sqm) and was looking at installing the simplest, smallest version of a solid fuel stove.

    Any advice for a novice?

    If it's for young kids to play in you might want to think twice, dry stoves get very hot to touch and the danger of burns exists.

    Otherwise, if it is single story you will need a pipe to extend several feet higher than the roof level in order to get enough draw. I suggest you go out through a wall with 2 x 45 degree bends instead of vertically through your roof to minimise the risk of leaks. This is not a diy job, if the heat sheilding isn't up to scratch you could create a fire hazard and your house insurance won't cover the result.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,742 ✭✭✭Phil.x


    gebbel wrote: »
    Before we even buy a stove....and we have decided on a 7kw inset stove...this is what we have been quoted (copied and pasted from a local installer in Louth):

    14 metres to cover flue (we are a ground floor apartment with duplex above)
    Cowl, skirt and adaptor
    Matt flue at stove
    Insulation wrap at stove
    CO2 meter
    Scissor lift to roof
    Take old fire back out
    New concrete base for insert
    Sweep & clean chimney
    Labour

    €1270

    And all before a stove is bought. I knew it would be more expensive due to the height of the chimney and the need for a scissor lift etc. But that price stretches it beyond my budget as I had said €1600 for the whole job.

    That seems the norm, I was giving price of 2k with Stanley insert on semi detached .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    Seems Ok.

    Also, your getting a CO alarm, not a CO2 meter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭peadar76


    can I install a stove on a tiled concrete floor without a hearth?


  • Registered Users Posts: 235 ✭✭Tommy Max


    Would like to hear any feedback from anybody who purchased a Henley Apollo or achill stove? Non boiler insert stove is what we are after.

    Our room is 18.5 feet x 12.5 feet so looking at what would work best.

    Really appreciate any feedback or recommendations please.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    peadar76 wrote:
    can I install a stove on a tiled concrete floor without a hearth?


    By building regs the area around stove should have a height distinction of 12mm or more..
    So technically no...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Might seem an odd one. I have a Green 8kw stove installed. There is a problem with the flue and looking around at prices to get fixed which is going to cost 1,000+ from the initial quotes.

    I was looking around for installers and seen gas stoves. Never seen these before. Just checking if anyone has these installed?

    My thoughts was replace the solid fuel stove, put in gas stove. It is in chimney which is on outside wall so I could drill outside and then have large gas cylinder outside.

    I already have a large solid fuel stove in other room so having gas in other room would be handy.....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 41 cronley


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Ok sorry to bring this back up. I promise will be final time.

    So I replaced the cowl. It is special version to increase the draw. So I fired up stove. Not a drop of rain around.

    Left it lighted and new cowl is adding extra draw but the bloody thing is dripping. I have no idea what issue is now. There is no rain so why would it be dripping? Took pic if, not sure if you can see the water waiting to drip

    Any idea's?

    You need to install flexi flue liner and insulate the flexi liner towards the bottom of the flue. Your chimney is too cold - the smoke is condensing on the cold chimney, and turning into creosote liquid. This condensing problem is very bad on external chimneys. The insulated flexi liner will increase the temperature in the flue - the smoke will rise, and not condense into liquid.
    Browse here http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/
    or here about external chimney http://www.woodheat.org/outside-chimney.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    cronley wrote: »
    You need to install flexi flue liner and insulate the flexi liner towards the bottom of the flue. Your chimney is too cold - the smoke is condensing on the cold chimney, and turning into creosote liquid. This condensing problem is very bad on external chimneys. The insulated flexi liner will increase the temperature in the flue - the smoke will rise, and not condense into liquid.
    Browse here http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/
    or here about external chimney http://www.woodheat.org/outside-chimney.html

    Thanks, yeah I had worked it out. The issue is the fireplace is a feature so there is cast iron flue coming out the back and going up. You can see about 1 m of the flue. So I need to replace with cast iron flue or it will look strange. So I need a double wall chimeny flue like this: http://stoneandstoves.ie/product/double-wall-chimney-500mm-2/

    I know exactly what I need but I can't get anyone to do the job, the couple of places I have asked came back and told me they are too busy installing new stoves.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    Hi folks I have an 8kw inset stove. It is working great, maybe to good.
    When I set the fire I stack it to the limit with off cuts I get about 4 hours out of it.
    The problem is the fire place and cheminy get pretty hot a bit to hot.
    Should the top of the stove be insulated. There is no insulation around the box at all. Just thinking if it where insulated I would not need to set such a big fire.
    Thank you. Briany3


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    Briany3 wrote: »
    I stack it to the limit with off cuts I get about 4 hours out of it

    Do you have the air on the stove closed down?

    Sounds like you are over fueling it, basically you are loading it with more fuel that it can handle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭Tony H


    Hi can anyone PM me a recommendation for a stove fitter in the east Cork area ?

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    TPM wrote: »
    Do you have the air on the stove closed down?

    Sounds like you are over fueling it, basically you are loading it with more fuel that it can handle.

    Yes I do have the air flow closed right down
    Thank you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 856 ✭✭✭rebeve


    I am fitting a new 6kw stove , one installer told me as the house was built in the last 20 years I don't need flue liner . Other price from a different company was including liner .I thought the flue liner was a must .So am I wrong


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    rebeve wrote: »
    I am fitting a new 6kw stove , one installer told me as the house was built in the last 20 years I don't need flue liner . Other price from a different company was including liner .I thought the flue liner was a must .So am I wrong

    Depends, from what I have found out if there is cracks or damage to flue liner you will need a flue liner. If not then you are ok. My friends house was built in 70's got it checked and no need for flue liner but that is not to say a 3 year old house might need a flue liner if damaged

    What I have found with most companies they will automatically put in flue liner without even checking the flue, more money in it for them....


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 kamila jelinkova


    what's the best stove to buy and any idea on cost and installation guys in the market for one


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    Phil.x wrote: »
    That seems the norm, I was giving price of 2k with Stanley insert on semi detached .

    I got a 8kw stove, chimney flue, and fire place, for €1350 last year. I would put up a photo but I don't no to.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 what?yeah


    Hi all,

    I recently had a porto 400 6kw stove and a new fireplace supplied and fitted by a local fireplace store and I've few concerns about the fitting. Before calling the shop just thought I'd post here and see if people think there's cause for concern.

    Stove:
    1. So far we haven't gotten great heat out of the stove. We burn coal and logs and even after a couple of hours of adding fuel the room isn't fully heated. You can quite comfortably stand right beside the stove and put your hand next to it. There seems to be a whistling sound of air going up the chimney. Maybe I haven't found the right adjustment other air supply controls yet but I was expecting more heat output.

    2. The stove appears to be installed at an angle leaning back into the fireplace opening. This means when you open the door to put fuel in the door starts closing behind you making it awkward. Is it normal for a stove door to close itself or should it stay open when opened?

    Fireplace:
    1. Theres a gap between the heart and the wall. At one side it's half an inch and on another side it's an inch. I thought the heart should be against the wall or at least a couple of mm off the wall and the skirting board cut around it. On ours the heart is flat against the skirting on one side and on the other it's a good half inch off the skirting. You can notice the heart running at an angle off the wall when you look at it from the side. Is this normal? Should the heart be closer to the wall?

    2. The heart is split down the middle to allow for expansion as it should be. However I thought that the joint between the two pieces should be filled with some kind of filler, it isn't. Is this normal?

    The shop I bought it from have been around a while so I'd be surprised if they didn't know what they were doing but these things kinda stuck out to me.

    If anybody has any input on this it would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Tom


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,061 ✭✭✭Uriel.


    Hi Folks,

    We got a Stovax Riva 55 installed in early summer as we were renovating a newly bought house and had floors up and walls pulled apart etc.

    So it's been sitting there since June and we hadn't fired it up. It was a full professional installation job, chimney clean and flue/lining or whatever put in.

    So we lit it up the other night. quite a bit of smoke coming into the room when door is open/opened (e.g. for refueling) on the first night. Also glass started to go black and has what seems to be bits of ashes stuck to it.

    Fired it up again last night, more or less the same craic.

    It's a multi fuel stove but at the moment we are just using dry wood kindling
    and these air dried logs from BnM

    In terms of air flow, the first night we had the primary open about 50% and the secondary about 25%

    last night after some googling we adjusted it to about 50% primary and more or less 100% secondary - though we did adjust them as the fire developed and then died.

    Nonetheless still some smoke coming into the room on opening the stove door and still getting blacker.

    Can anyone advise as to what we are doing wrong? is the fuel ok, or should we be using something else.

    Also has anyone any experience of these stove cleaning pads for the glass? they are supposed to be scratch free and have good reviews.


    Thanks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Uriel. wrote: »
    Hi Folks,

    We got a Stovax Riva 55 installed in early summer as we were renovating a newly bought house and had floors up and walls pulled apart etc.

    So it's been sitting there since June and we hadn't fired it up. It was a full professional installation job, chimney clean and flue/lining or whatever put in.

    So we lit it up the other night. quite a bit of smoke coming into the room when door is open/opened (e.g. for refueling) on the first night. Also glass started to go black and has what seems to be bits of ashes stuck to it.

    Fired it up again last night, more or less the same craic.

    It's a multi fuel stove but at the moment we are just using dry wood kindling
    and these air dried logs from BnM

    In terms of air flow, the first night we had the primary open about 50% and the secondary about 25%

    last night after some googling we adjusted it to about 50% primary and more or less 100% secondary - though we did adjust them as the fire developed and then died.

    Nonetheless still some smoke coming into the room on opening the stove door and still getting blacker.

    Can anyone advise as to what we are doing wrong? is the fuel ok, or should we be using something else.

    Also has anyone any experience of these stove cleaning pads for the glass? they are supposed to be scratch free and have good reviews.


    Thanks.

    Do you have a cowl on the chimney? It sounds to me like there isnt enought of a draw on the stove but I am taking a guess......

    I use the following: http://www.woodies.ie/hg-stove-glass-cleaner-0-5-litre-1038320

    But if you get the smoke fixed it will stop the problem


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Just wondering if anyone could help. I have attached 3 "pictures" I have done up. One shows current set up which is causing a problem. It is too far going straight out the back

    If you look at Planned B pic you can see what 2 stove installers are saying they want to do. So changing from back flue connection to top.

    If you see planned A this is actually what I was thinking they would do, is there any reason why you should mount flue from top instead of back?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,061 ✭✭✭Uriel.


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Do you have a cowl on the chimney? It sounds to me like there isnt enought of a draw on the stove but I am taking a guess......

    I use the following: http://www.woodies.ie/hg-stove-glass-cleaner-0-5-litre-1038320

    But if you get the smoke fixed it will stop the problem

    Thanks for the reply. Yeah I believe a cowl was fitted, I would have to double check tonight to be absolutely certain but i am almost 100% that there is one. There was previously an open fireplace so we had everything done from scratch by the company.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Uriel. wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply. Yeah I believe a cowl was fitted, I would have to double check tonight to be absolutely certain but i am almost 100% that there is one. There was previously an open fireplace so we had everything done from scratch by the company.

    For my parents stove which was retro fitted into old fireplace they had similar issues. They where recommended in invest in one of these(they didn't buy from this company or anything, first place that came up on google)

    http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Chimney_Cowls_Revolving.html

    The spinning cowl creates a draw and resolved the issue.

    The fuel you are using is ok so that is not issue. The air flow is good from what you wrote.

    Could you go back to installer and see what they say>

    Again I am no expert, it might not be a draw issue on chimney just sounds similar to parents house


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,933 ✭✭✭keith_d99


    Uriel. wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply. Yeah I believe a cowl was fitted, I would have to double check tonight to be absolutely certain but i am almost 100% that there is one. There was previously an open fireplace so we had everything done from scratch by the company.

    Uriel - those BNM "air-dried" logs are rubbish - used them before had the same issue .. they were damp.

    Get a bag of Kiln-dried and see how you get on ... at least it will help you to get to know your stove. Chances are there is nothing wrong with your stove or installation.

    I have my Riva 40 in about a year now ... and am still getting to know it!
    I tried some coal in it for the first time a few weeks back ... heat output is unreal and fire lasted for hours! .. Is bloody messy to clean out though.

    I would never rule out coal for the cold spells.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,933 ✭✭✭keith_d99


    Uriel. wrote: »
    Hi Folks,
    the first night we had the primary open about 50% and the secondary about 25%

    last night after some googling we adjusted it to about 50% primary and more or less 100% secondary - though we did adjust them as the fire developed and then died.

    Thanks.

    For starting a fire on our Rive 40 - we start with both open 100%
    Then when the first is established ... start closing the primary ... eventually having it fully closed.

    Once a stove is hot ... it is easy to keep warm (with little fuel).
    The trick is to get it established and hot as quick as possible!

    I adjust the Airwash/Secondary .. if the room is too warm to slow the burn rate.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,061 ✭✭✭Uriel.


    keith_d99 wrote: »
    Uriel - those BNM "air-dried" logs are rubbish - used them before had the same issue .. they were damp.

    Get a bag of Kiln-dried and see how you get on ... at least it will help you to get to know your stove. Chances are there is nothing wrong with your stove or installation.

    I have my Riva 40 in about a year now ... and am still getting to know it!
    I tried some coal in it for the first time a few weeks back ... heat output is unreal and fire lasted for hours! .. Is bloody messy to clean out though.

    I would never rule out coal for the cold spells.
    keith_d99 wrote: »
    For starting a fire on our Rive 40 - we start with both open 100%
    Then when the first is established ... start closing the primary ... eventually having it fully closed.

    Once a stove is hot ... it is easy to keep warm (with little fuel).
    The trick is to get it established and hot as quick as possible!

    I adjust the Airwash/Secondary .. if the room is too warm to slow the burn rate.

    Cheers Keith,
    I will try the Kiln dried ones as you mentioned. I think you are right about the air dried logs - they do seem a bit damp (and dirty) to me and this could be the problem (or part of it at least).

    I will grab a bag of the Kiln dried wood and try it for the next stove run and see how it goes.

    By the way, have you ever tried BnM's eco logs? I am not sure if the heat output would be great, but I might give them a bash also and see if I can find the best fit via trial and error.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,061 ✭✭✭Uriel.


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    For my parents stove which was retro fitted into old fireplace they had similar issues. They where recommended in invest in one of these(they didn't buy from this company or anything, first place that came up on google)

    http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Chimney_Cowls_Revolving.html

    The spinning cowl creates a draw and resolved the issue.

    The fuel you are using is ok so that is not issue. The air flow is good from what you wrote.

    Could you go back to installer and see what they say>

    Again I am no expert, it might not be a draw issue on chimney just sounds similar to parents house

    I will double check the cowl tonight and see what's there. I might try a fuel switch as suggested by Keith to completely rule that out as the issue. If the fuel switch doesn't improve matters I will go back to the installer as you suggested and see if we can identify the problem (and hopefully the solution).

    Cheers for the advice!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,933 ✭✭✭keith_d99


    Uriel. wrote: »

    By the way, have you ever tried BnM's eco logs? I am not sure if the heat output would be great, but I might give them a bash also and see if I can find the best fit via trial and error.

    I did Uriel in the early days ... they burn easy alright .. but don't last very long at all! Leave plenty of ash too from what I remember. Not sure how much "value" would be in a bag.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    Briany3 wrote: »
    Hi folks I have an 8kw inset stove. It is working great, maybe to good.
    When I set the fire I stack it to the limit with off cuts I get about 4 hours out of it.
    The problem is the fire place and cheminy get pretty hot a bit to hot.
    Should the top of the stove be insulated. There is no insulation around the box at all. Just thinking if it where insulated I would not need to set such a big fire.
    Thank you. Briany3

    Assuming that you're talking about an insert? If the chimney and fireplace are getting excessively hot, then you might have an issue with lack of insulation around the stove, as you mentioned. The stove should be well insulated at the top, sides and back to make sure that you're getting the most heat possible into the room and not up the chimney / into the walls. I had a shoddy install done on my insert - got no heat from the stove. Complained, got new guys out, stove taken out, fully insulated and replaced. Savage heat since then. Also - burning off cuts mightn't be generating the most heat. If you really want to test a stove, get a good fire going then burn dry turf or stove coal (ecobrite) - they seem to give off the most heat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    steamsey wrote: »
    Assuming that you're talking about an insert? If the chimney and fireplace are getting excessively hot, then you might have an issue with lack of insulation around the stove, as you mentioned. The stove should be well insulated at the top, sides and back to make sure that you're getting the most heat possible into the room and not up the chimney / into the walls. I had a shoddy install done on my insert - got no heat from the stove. Complained, got new guys out, stove taken out, fully insulated and replaced. Savage heat since then. Also - burning off cuts mightn't be generating the most heat. If you really want to test a stove, get a good fire going then burn dry turf or stove coal (ecobrite) - they seem to give off the most heat.

    Thank you very much I will try that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Just an update on repair my stove, so I took off the stove last night. God it is a heavy beast. Then took into taking down the flue. Everything was covered in a black tar like substance so no easy job. Ended up pulling the supports out of wall with hammer and screwdriver.

    The thing was full of rust and sh*t. Took a few pics of it lying on ground

    From what I can make out they had a connector from the flue into the chimney but the actual chimney is not lined. This could be the reason for the condensation.

    Going to head to a local supplier tomorrow and see what I need to buy and take into repair job next week. Main question is will I need twin walled flue


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  • Registered Users Posts: 43 lartsa


    Hi,

    Looking for any insight people might have on the following.

    We had a CARA stove installed a few years back and it works very well.

    On the strength of this we have just put in a new one in a different room and for whatever reason this one does not really work at all!

    It has a flexi flu attached all the way to the top of the chimney. Installation appears fine, Baffles etc all seem to be in correctly.

    The stove fires fine and is controllable via the primary and secondary controller behaving just as per original stove, but all we get is radiant heat from the door.

    There does not appear to be any hot air convecting out from the vents behind the top of the door. On the other stove hot air convects out of these vents.

    The heat has to be going somewhere and I can only assume it is going up the chimney but why it is not convecting out heat is strange.

    Any ideas , experiences worth sharing?

    Cheers

    bg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭suitseir


    Update....got sorted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Just an update on repair my stove, so I took off the stove last night. God it is a heavy beast. Then took into taking down the flue. Everything was covered in a black tar like substance so no easy job. Ended up pulling the supports out of wall with hammer and screwdriver.

    The thing was full of rust and sh*t. Took a few pics of it lying on ground

    From what I can make out they had a connector from the flue into the chimney but the actual chimney is not lined. This could be the reason for the condensation.

    Going to head to a local supplier tomorrow and see what I need to buy and take into repair job next week. Main question is will I need twin walled flue

    Best of Luck to you..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Briany3 wrote: »
    Best of Luck to you..

    Worked it out....had to order in my kit list as wasn't in stock. So far has come to €364. I need another few things(Fire Cement & Flue Bracket). Would say it will cost circa 400 all in.

    Small cost saving versus the 1k I was been quoted.....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Ok so I bought the following kit from Goodwins: https://www.goodwins.ie/products/flexible_twinwall_flue_liner_kit_316l_150mm_x_6mtr.html?filter_set[0]=13%2C349&

    Any idea anybody how the cowl works? all the video's I have seen the cowl connects to the flexi flue and then the clay flue pipe to hold everything in position. Can't see how that cowl would work?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    Just to note that is 316 Flexi... if burning coal not great life expectancy.
    904 is for coal 316 is wood mainly


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    rpmcs wrote: »
    Just to note that is 316 Flexi... if burning coal not great life expectancy.
    904 is for coal 316 is wood mainly

    I bought the 904, just picked the link from the 316 :P

    Both have the same cowl.....

    From what I can see I need a Chimney Liner cowl, which is available here for another 60 odd quid : http://www.kbf.ie/accessories

    Or can I use that one?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Job done, doesn't look too bad:P Need to do a bit of cleaning as the new pipe looks very clean versus the old stove.

    Used my old cowl and connected the flexi flue to it

    Came in around 400 euro I think once I got everything

    So total saving versus someone coming in is 600 quid

    Enough to get myself a new TV :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 Buck Overbite


    Hi Lads,

    I wonder can anyone help me. I'm looking for a hetas engineer to help/advise on a problematic stove.

    I had an inset stove installed last year but it has never rid itself of that chemical fume smell that often comes at an early stage of use. We were told that this would burn off after a while as the paint cured but it has never gone. If anything, the hotter the fire, the worse the fumes. Not smokey, but a real chemical fume smell. The stove is practically unusable as a result.

    I cannot get the original installers to come and check it; i wont name them but they are in the Limerick area (as am I) and their aftersales has been appalling. Anyway, i'll have to get someone independent to look at it in order to get to the bottom of the problem.

    Any advice/pointers etc massively appreciated.

    Cheers,

    M


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,745 ✭✭✭laugh


    Has anyone installed a stove on a gable where there is no chimney?

    Do you go out and up the wall with twin wall flue pipe?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    laugh wrote: »
    Has anyone installed a stove on a gable where there is no chimney?

    Do you go out and up the wall with twin wall flue pipe?

    Think link was posted by someone earlier and I found great
    http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/

    See specific section here: http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/articles/installing-a-twin-wall-flue-chimney/


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