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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • #702
    profitius
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,976 ✭✭✭profitius


    I heard that a steel pipe leading out the chimney is better than a normal chimney. Is that true?


  • #703
    guinness queen
    Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    Hi stove fan, many thanks for that. I did not realise it was the Dovre 2000 (the franklin type) I just love them but again I would agree they must be very like the open fire, I guess that they use a lot of fuel. I wonder if the other Dovre models are good buy.
    thanks again for all your help, reading your comments is a real education.


  • #704
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    framework123 wrote: »
    Thanks for reply..the surround is marble so is that ok?

    Prob a stupid question but why does the hearth need to be extended?

    Being marble then you wont need to worry about it:). The only issue if you place a stove on the marble hearth (base) then you should for building regulations have at a minimum 9 inches infront of the stove. Ie the marble hearth 9 inches infront of the stove.

    This is to protect the floor from heat/ hot coals falling from the stove.

    What I would do if you can is to either get another piece of marble to match and fit it infront or slide the hearth forward and then add the new piece on the back or fit a whole new piece. It can be anything so long its fireproof. You could then sit a small stove ontop like a stanley oisin providing the rear flue is low enough to go through the fire opening. You would get a arched metal plate fitted infront to match the arch with hole in for flue. If possible connect the stoves fluepipe to the clay liner using 2x 45 degree bends and a clay flue adapter. This is better as you dont have to remove the stove to sweep the chimney and no soot builds up in the old fireplace recess. A fire hazard. This adapter is needed to connect to your clay flue. If not lined fit a stainless flue liner.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #705
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    profitius wrote: »
    I heard that a steel pipe leading out the chimney is better than a normal chimney. Is that true?

    Yes a stainless steel flexible liner is a much better job than a clay lined flue. The clay lined flue is for an open fire being minimum of 8 inch internal. Most stoves are 5 or 6 inch flues so the clay lining is much larger than needed.

    The clay lined flue absorbs the heat and can cool the flue gas temperatures and can lead to tar/ condensation the higher up the flue due to cooling of the flue the higher up you go.

    The stainless steel flexible liner keeps the flue much warmer quicker so improves the draw and as its warmer less likely to form tar if the wood/fuel is dry.

    Line the flue if you can especially if it's old. All flues should be smoke tested before use.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #706
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    guinness queen wrote: »
    Hi stove fan, many thanks for that. I did not realise it was the Dovre 2000 (the franklin type) I just love them but again I would agree they must be very like the open fire, I guess that they use a lot of fuel. I wonder if the other Dovre models are good buy.
    thanks again for all your help, reading your comments is a real education.

    Hi, as the control isn't as good as a quality stove then yes it would use more fuel. It pays to pay a bit more on a good stove as you will save the difference in the fuel saved.
    I don't actually have any direct experience so the other dove stoves may be very good.

    I prefer steel stoves myself as there fully welded and no chance of cracking the cast iron.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #707
    celiam
    Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭celiam


    hey you dont need all that work recommended by stove fan. our fireplace was something similar to yours and we put in a free standing hamco stove. it just heats the room


  • #708
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    celiam wrote: »
    hey you dont need all that work recommended by stove fan. our fireplace was something similar to yours and we put in a free standing hamco stove. it just heats the room

    Hi:) It was good that your hearth was big enough. An inset stove, yes the hearth doesn't need extending but a stove probably yes to be compliant with building regs.

    The last thing you want is a fire and the insurance wont pay out as it's not installed to regs. The hearth needs to be a minimum of 9 inches infront of the stove and 6 inches to side.
    The amount of sloppy installs I see here is crazy. No hearth infront with carpet almost infront of the stove. Clearance to flammable objects not to manufacturers instructions etc.

    I always air on the safety side:) Better safe than sorry:)

    Have you a photo of your stove and hearth?

    Stove Fan:)


  • #709
    framework123
    Registered Users Posts: 112 ✭✭framework123


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    framework123 wrote: »
    Thanks for reply..the surround is marble so is that ok?

    Prob a stupid question but why does the hearth need to be extended?

    Being marble then you wont need to worry about it:). The only issue if you place a stove on the marble hearth (base) then you should for building regulations have at a minimum 9 inches infront of the stove. Ie the marble hearth 9 inches infront of the stove.

    This is to protect the floor from heat/ hot coals falling from the stove.

    What I would do if you can is to either get another piece of marble to match and fit it infront or slide the hearth forward and then add the new piece on the back or fit a whole new piece. It can be anything so long its fireproof. You could then sit a small stove ontop like a stanley oisin providing the rear flue is low enough to go through the fire opening. You would get a arched metal plate fitted infront to match the arch with hole in for flue. If possible connect the stoves fluepipe to the clay liner using 2x 45 degree bends and a clay flue adapter. This is better as you dont have to remove the stove to sweep the chimney and no soot builds up in the old fireplace recess. A fire hazard. This adapter is needed to connect to your clay flue. If not lined fit a stainless flue liner.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks for the advice...I was actually looking at the Stanley Oisin yesterday in my local hardware store...

    Is this a good stove?
    How many years should I get out of it?
    Is 430euro a good price for it?


  • #710
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    framework123 wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice...I was actually looking at the Stanley Oisin yesterday in my local hardware store...

    Is this a good stove?
    How many years should I get out of it?
    Is 430euro a good price for it?

    The stanley oisin isn't the worst and isn't the best. It's actually cast in China and imported. I don't think the oisin has airwash to help keep the glass clean.

    Morso, charnwood, clearview and Woodwarm are top makes but the price increases accordingly.

    I really dont know how long a stanley should last? 10 years hopefully providing the cast iron doesnt crack. Fire the stove up slowly to avoid thermal shock.

    For stove reviews by owners see here. www.whatstove.co.uk

    Stove Fan:)


  • #711
    guinness queen
    Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    Hi Stove Fan, I looked at the Dovre and certainly they are extremely heavy but that is as far as I know. there are no standards in Ireland, and that goes for all walks of life. As far as I know all those regualtions regarding the flue, and its installation do not exist . here. I stand corrected if I have it wrong.
    I was wondering how one manages to put an air vent in 4ft or more walls in order to comply to stoves producing more than 5KW.
    Many thanks


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  • #712
    Geranium40
    Registered Users Posts: 67 ✭✭Geranium40


    Hi
    Has anyone installed a Dimplex Multifuel Inset Stove. We are thinking about
    putting one into our existing fireplace. Also, we have arch shape over fireplace, will an inset fit in or would you need to remove it?
    Thanks for any advice


  • #713
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    guinness queen wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan, I looked at the Dovre and certainly they are extremely heavy but that is as far as I know. there are no standards in Ireland, and that goes for all walks of life. As far as I know all those regualtions regarding the flue, and its installation do not exist . here. I stand corrected if I have it wrong.
    I was wondering how one manages to put an air vent in 4ft or more walls in order to comply to stoves producing more than 5KW.
    Many thanks

    Hi yes fitting a vent in a thick stone wall is a big job!!

    There are stove install regulations here it's just they are not adhered too or enforced by a building inspector. The regs are very similar to document J in the UK.
    See Irish regs here.http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf

    Here is a list of all Irish building regulations. Click on Full List of Technical Guidance Documents 1997 - 2011
    http://www.environ.ie/en/TGD/#Full List of Technical Guidance Documents 1997 - 2011

    Stove Fan:)


  • #714
    guinness queen
    Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    Dear Stove Fan,
    Thanks for all that, the house is over 200 years old, built with stone, so no way I can Fit a vent, so will have to fore go that one. Its so draughty I do not think I will have a Problem. Yes I am sure the regs exist, but no one minds them as I am sure you are aware.


  • #715
    darkhorse
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭darkhorse


    Hi Everyone and Stove Fan,

    I was on a few days ago talking about getting stoves. Well, I got one of them and there is a four week delay on the other one. Now, the one I am waiting for is a Tara oil. I have just heard in the past couple of days that this stove drinks oil like no other. Has anyone out there got Tara oil. If anyone has, please reply to me as a matter of urgency. I need feedback on this. I anxiously await a reply.
    John:confused:


  • #716
    darkhorse
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭darkhorse


    Hi Stove Fan,
    It looks like nobody that we know has a Tara oil stove. I don't know what to think as today is my deadline to buy a stove. Thanks for all your help.
    John:confused:


  • #717
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    jbyrne10 wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan,
    It looks like nobody that we know has a Tara oil stove. I don't know what to think as today is my deadline to buy a stove. Thanks for all your help.
    John:confused:

    Hi, see if in the manufacturers instructions they state the oil consumption per hour. If not then give stanley a ring:). At least then you could work out how many litres a day it would use and cost.

    My own thoughts are though if your house/room is cold enough to need the oil fire on then it would be more efficient to have the condensing boiler on than the oil stove, especially if your having the central heating on anyway.

    Good luck in your decision and I hope you get some feedback on the oil stove:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • #718
    selfbuild2012
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2 ✭selfbuild2012


    Love this informative thread....am planning to start building house later this year and am still deciding on what heating system to implement. I'm considering a solid fuel boiler stove with solar panels.

    I'm wondering can an underfloor heating be used with a boiler stove?....How effective are sitka spruce and lodge pole pine in these stoves? Is it difficult to combine a solar panel system with a boiler stove system?

    In the kitchen i was thinking of putting the boiler stove and in the living room a non boiler stove. They are both of a reasonably large area 5m x 4m and will be inhabited more then any other rooms in the house.

    Would greatly appreciate any wise words stove fan. Attached is a copy of the ground floor house plan.


  • #719
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    selfbuild2012 wrote: »
    Love this informative thread....am planning to start building house later this year and am still deciding on what heating system to implement. I'm considering a solid fuel boiler stove with solar panels.

    I'm wondering can an underfloor heating be used with a boiler stove?....How effective are sitka spruce and lodge pole pine in these stoves? Is it difficult to combine a solar panel system with a boiler stove system?

    In the kitchen i was thinking of putting the boiler stove and in the living room a non boiler stove. They are both of a reasonably large area 5m x 4m and will be inhabited more then any other rooms in the house.

    Would greatly appreciate any wise words stove fan. Attached is a copy of the ground floor house plan.

    Hi:) A solid fuel stove can run underfloor heating providing a thermal store is used. This thermal stove is like a hot water cylinder but super insulated. This can connect the boiler stove, ordinary oil/gas boiler and solar panels. They are available in a variety of sizes.
    See this link for pictures of thermal stores. https://www.google.com/search?q=thermal+store&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-ie:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7TSEH_en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=BZFgT7APj5mFB9KsmaUH&sqi=2&ved=0CFkQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=587

    The underfloor circuit water is taken from the lower part of the thermal store where the water inside isn't as hot. The radiator water is taken from the top if using rads/towel rails. The domestic hot water is produced by an indirect coil passing through the very hot water inside the thermal store, this domestic hot water is at mains pressure.

    For your heating setup a thermal store is ideal.

    If you have a plentiful supply of very cheap or free firewood consider a log gasification boiler in an adjoining outbuilding rather than a boiler stove.
    These are more efficient than an ordinary boiler stove by around 15%.
    The beauty of the log gasification boiler and thermal store setup is you have a hot fire going to heat up the thermal store and then let the fire go out. The gasification boiler burns off the gases and burns much hotter than an ordinary boiler stove. If the heat isn't being used the thermal store keeps this water hot for use later as needed. The other good thing with a gasification boiler your burning very hot so tar formation is less.


    We have just a boiler stove with no thermal store or solar panels and use stika spruce. We find it good and hot although to heat our house using just wood isn't that economical cost wise. We have used 10 cubic metres this winter up to now and it's mild:eek: We find coal much cheaper to run. We pay 13 euro for 40kg bag of coal if buying in bulk. Or 60 euro a cubic metre for stika spruce delivered and cut etc. Our home is 100sqm with reasonable insulation. All walls kingspaned and extension with cavity wall insulation as well, 4 inch with 70mm aeroboard platinum.

    The logs are nice to use but you need storage space outside undercover and stored near the boiler for easy refuelling. The gasification boiler would be best in an adjoining garage etc. With boiler one side and fuel nearby to make refuelling easier. If you don't have access to very cheap fuel I would use only a boiler stove. There are pellet boilers as well or straw bale boilers. I know nothing about these though.


    Stove Fan:)


  • #720
    selfbuild2012
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2 ✭selfbuild2012


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) A solid fuel stove can run underfloor heating providing a thermal store is used. This thermal stove is like a hot water cylinder but super insulated. This can connect the boiler stove, ordinary oil/gas boiler and solar panels. They are available in a variety of sizes.
    See this link for pictures of thermal stores. https://www.google.com/search?q=thermal+store&hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-ie:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7TSEH_en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=BZFgT7APj5mFB9KsmaUH&sqi=2&ved=0CFkQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=587

    The underfloor circuit water is taken from the lower part of the thermal store where the water inside isn't as hot. The radiator water is taken from the top if using rads/towel rails. The domestic hot water is produced by an indirect coil passing through the very hot water inside the thermal store, this domestic hot water is at mains pressure.

    For your heating setup a thermal store is ideal.

    If you have a plentiful supply of very cheap or free firewood consider a log gasification boiler in an adjoining outbuilding rather than a boiler stove.
    These are more efficient than an ordinary boiler stove by around 15%.
    The beauty of the log gasification boiler and thermal store setup is you have a hot fire going to heat up the thermal store and then let the fire go out. The gasification boiler burns off the gases and burns much hotter than an ordinary boiler stove. If the heat isn't being used the thermal store keeps this water hot for use later as needed. The other good thing with a gasification boiler your burning very hot so tar formation is less.


    We have just a boiler stove with no thermal store or solar panels and use stika spruce. We find it good and hot although to heat our house using just wood isn't that economical cost wise. We have used 10 cubic metres this winter up to now and it's mild:eek: We find coal much cheaper to run. We pay 13 euro for 40kg bag of coal if buying in bulk. Or 60 euro a cubic metre for stika spruce delivered and cut etc. Our home is 100sqm with reasonable insulation. All walls kingspaned and extension with cavity wall insulation as well, 4 inch with 70mm aeroboard platinum.

    The logs are nice to use but you need storage space outside undercover and stored near the boiler for easy refuelling. The gasification boiler would be best in an adjoining garage etc. With boiler one side and fuel nearby to make refuelling easier. If you don't have access to very cheap fuel I would use only a boiler stove. There are pellet boilers as well or straw bale boilers. I know nothing about these though.


    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks for response Stove Fan. I was'nt aware the log wood gasification was so much more efficent then the boiler stove. I do have a very cheap supply of sitka spruce and lodge pole pine with an old shed for storage. Would you see any problems having a log wood gasification boiler in a utility room as shed is some distance from proposed house? It could also then be located very close to themal store.


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  • #721
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    selfbuild2012 wrote: »
    Thanks for response Stove Fan. I was'nt aware the log wood gasification was so much more efficent then the boiler stove. I do have a very cheap supply of sitka spruce and lodge pole pine with an old shed for storage. Would you see any problems having a log wood gasification boiler in a utility room as shed is some distance from proposed house? It could also then be located very close to themal store.

    I wouldn't think there would be a problem in siting the gasification boiler in a utility room. Some owners could tell you how noisy they are. There is a thread on this forum, log gasification boilers. http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055508301 There is the dealer mentioned in this thread and also Kotly as well. http://kotly.com/index.php?cPath=169_208
    http://kotly.com/index.php?cPath=169_207

    Or how about a wood and gas/oil boiler in one.http://kotly.com/product_info.php?cPath=169_210&products_id=1059 You would need to see what it's efficiency rating is and it works in gasification using wood. It would save buying and plumbing in 2 boilers.
    When you build your utility I would built the utility walls in block rather than timber stud to help reduce the spread of noise.

    Also while building the house have a masonry chimney built for it during the build:). As you have a cheap supply then it would pay you. Bearing in mind you may need 20 cubic metres a year of timber, but it depends on house size/insulation. Actual users may be able to advice on how much wood it would take.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #722
    darkhorse
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭darkhorse


    Hi Stove Fan,
    I did what you said. I went to the local stove merchant's and I asked about the oil consumption. They gave me a copy of same and also calculated roughly how much it would cost me weekly according to my usage. i was happy with the info I got and I bought my stove. Again I want to thank you for all your very helpful advice.
    John:)


  • #723
    Mcorriga
    Registered Users Posts: 40 ✭Mcorriga


    Hi all,

    Am currently in the process of building and was wondering if anyone had come across the following system

    http://www.poujoulat.co.uk/pdf/leaflefts/POUJOULATUK_Leaflets_2010_Comfort+2.pdf


  • #724
    darkhorse
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭darkhorse


    Mcorriga wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Am currently in the process of building and was wondering if anyone had come across the following system

    http://www.poujoulat.co.uk/pdf/leaflefts/POUJOULATUK_Leaflets_2010_Comfort+2.pdf

    Hi Mcorriga,
    Sorry, but I am afraid I never came across this system. Maybe Stove Fan has.
    John:o


  • #725
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Mcorriga wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Am currently in the process of building and was wondering if anyone had come across the following system

    http://www.poujoulat.co.uk/pdf/leaflefts/POUJOULATUK_Leaflets_2010_Comfort+2.pdf

    Hi, poujoulat is a respected make but I have no experience of this warm air kit.

    I have seen a warm air system from an insert stove itself, but not this one. A relative had this system which was old and had two warm air vents to other rooms with a fan to push the heat through. It took the chill off but didn't heat the room to warm but it was an old house with poor insulation. They may of improved. You could ask about warm air heating from a stove or this device on the Total France Forum as poujoulat is a French manufacturer. http://www.totalfrance.com/france/forum/index.php

    Stove Fan:)


  • #726
    kenny111
    Registered Users Posts: 127 ✭✭kenny111


    I have an existing 6kw stove but am replacing with a boiler model, my question is if I get a model that output 6kw to the room and 12 kw to the boiler roughly how much extra fuel would I need to use, the stove itself would be on all day but would only need a small amount of heat to the rads during the day but would be increasing in the evenings.

    Thanks in advance.


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  • #727
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    kenny111 wrote: »
    I have an existing 6kw stove but am replacing with a boiler model, my question is if I get a model that output 6kw to the room and 12 kw to the boiler roughly how much extra fuel would I need to use, the stove itself would be on all day but would only need a small amount of heat to the rads during the day but would be increasing in the evenings.

    Thanks in advance.

    Hi, it's a very hard thing to actually say as every user,home insulation,hours used is so different.

    As a very quesstimate based on our boiler stove and usage of heating 10kw of rads etc and 2.5kw to room, last winter over 7 months based on average daily usage of 10 hours a day we burnt 45x 40kg bags of premium polish coal. Every radiator was on full and the house was between 19-24 degrees in that cold spell. My Grandparents feel the cold and like it warm all over. We have no other boiler/heating just the boiler stove. Our house has reasonable insulation and is a 1950's detatched block built bungalow. The walls of the old bungalow are solid block with kingspan insulated plasterboards on and the new extension is cavity wall with 70mm aeroboard platinum insulation and kingspan insulated plasterboard inside.
    We have between 200mm to 400mm of loft insulation. It needs topping up in parts.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #728
    Buttonruby
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1 ✭Buttonruby


    Hello. We installed a Stanley Reginald 2 wks ago. Heat/water/radiators all working fine. It was installed in an opening where we had an open fire. The opening was plastered at the back and sides. There is black soot/residue on the underside of the opening (ie if you kneel and look up). The flue is connected at 90 degrees and sealed around with fibreglass. Room well ventilated. The smell starts when the stove is heated up. It is a cross between a smoky / sooty smell. Seems to subside when I open draught a bit more than necessary. Could it be that this residue is heating up and causing the smell? Yet if i put my nose right up to it, it doesn't seem to be? Any suggestions?


  • #729
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Buttonruby wrote: »
    Hello. We installed a Stanley Reginald 2 wks ago. Heat/water/radiators all working fine. It was installed in an opening where we had an open fire. The opening was plastered at the back and sides. There is black soot/residue on the underside of the opening (ie if you kneel and look up). The flue is connected at 90 degrees and sealed around with fibreglass. Room well ventilated. The smell starts when the stove is heated up. It is a cross between a smoky / sooty smell. Seems to subside when I open draught a bit more than necessary. Could it be that this residue is heating up and causing the smell? Yet if i put my nose right up to it, it doesn't seem to be? Any suggestions?

    Hi:) first of all the stoves flue should not be sealed to the chimney with fibreglass:(.

    If your chimney is a clay lined chimney a clay adapter should be used. I take it this is flued from the rear. If this is the case 90 degree bends should be avoided due to not being able to be swept and if the horizontal length is more than 6 inches it's not to regs as long horizontal runs over 6 inch soot can gather and block the flue.
    If you still want to use it like this due to cost at the very minimum fit the clay liner adapter and sweep regularly.

    If there is room use two 45 degree elbows, one on stoves rear outlet angled upwards, short piece of pipe, other 45 degree bend to take it to vertical, another piece of pipe to join to the clay liner adapter. This way no soot can block the flue as it falls into the stove.

    Another option if the 45 degree bends cant be used.

    Fix/Seal a metal plate over the fireplace opening with a hole through for the stoves fluepipe. I,m not a fan of this way as to clear and sweep the flue the stove and plate has to be removed unless you can build a soot door into the metal plate or chimney base to remove the build up of soot at the bottom. Buy a carbon monoxide detector/alarm.

    With the soot thats there wire brush it off and if possible remove it. You could try using matt emulsion over once as much soot/tar is removed. You could try oven cleaner. But make sure no fire is on/sources of ignition.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #730
    bobtheplumber
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1 ✭bobtheplumber


    Hi There, I have fitted a good few Inis Boiler stoves and find them to be very efficient and a quality product, I have fitted the Inis mor and Inis Meain boiler stoves, the mor has been heating up to 18 rads with about 7kw to room at max output the inis meain will do up to 12 rads with about 5-6kw to room at max output. let me know your hot water needs and size of room and will try and guide you in the right direction I have fitted most types of boiler stoves.


  • #731
    NIMAN
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,004 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    bobtheplumber wrote: »
    Hi There, I have fitted a good few Inis Boiler stoves and find them to be very efficient and a quality product, I have fitted the Inis mor and Inis Meain boiler stoves, the mor has been heating up to 18 rads with about 7kw to room at max output the inis meain will do up to 12 rads with about 5-6kw to room at max output. let me know your hot water needs and size of room and will try and guide you in the right direction I have fitted most types of boiler stoves.

    Hi Bob

    Do you know what price the Inis Mór boiler stove is roughly?

    Edit: just found an online price, €1880 or £1660. Seems reasonable.


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  • #732
    exaisle
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,675 ✭✭✭exaisle


    Anybody know anywhere around south/west Dublin that I can get some stove cleaner tablets for a kerosene stove?

    TIA

    E

    @Mods- Move this if it's in the wrong thread! Ta.


  • #733
    snuggledrops
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3 ✭snuggledrops


    Hi all.
    I'm new to this site but have to say I really think it fantasic and a great font of impartial information, so many thanks to all who post.
    I am intending on installing a multifuel stove with boiler (to heat rads and hot water) in my sitting room which is 16'x16'. I have 14 rads which include two towel rails. I have some double rads which I have counted as two.
    The rad dimensions are as follows
    1x 50cm x 90cm
    1x 100cm x 50
    4x 110cm x 50
    1x 80cm x 60 (Double)
    1x 110cm x 50 (double)
    1x 140cm x 40 (double)
    2 x towel rails

    I had been considering either the Yeoman County 60b/80b or the Stovax Stockton 14HB (which i prefer the look of and was tempted to go with that) however I gather that i would be roasted out of it even with the sitting room door open, & radiator off.

    I was in another (!!!) shop today looking and the guy recommended the Boru Carraig Mor 30kw however I was not really mad about the look of the single door and having read up a little about the company I am not sure I want to go with such a young company.

    I really like the look of stoves with double doors as I love being able to see the flames dance. I hate getting rid of the open fire however with the cost of oil it seems so much more cost effective.

    I am also considering adding an extention on to my bungalow in a year or two which would probably add another 3/4 radiators.

    I would appreciate any advice or ideas that you can give. I have been looking at stoves for ages and the little more i know the more confused i get. I really would like to make a decision soon (thinking i already had with the Stockton 14HB however i don't want the smell of burnt meat pervading the house!!!):(

    Many thanks.


  • #734
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    snuggledrops wrote: »
    Hi all.
    I'm new to this site but have to say I really think it fantasic and a great font of impartial information, so many thanks to all who post.
    I am intending on installing a multifuel stove with boiler (to heat rads and hot water) in my sitting room which is 16'x16'. I have 14 rads which include two towel rails. I have some double rads which I have counted as two.
    The rad dimensions are as follows
    1x 50cm x 90cm
    1x 100cm x 50
    4x 110cm x 50
    1x 80cm x 60 (Double)
    1x 110cm x 50 (double)
    1x 140cm x 40 (double)
    2 x towel rails

    I had been considering either the Yeoman County 60b/80b or the Stovax Stockton 14HB (which i prefer the look of and was tempted to go with that) however I gather that i would be roasted out of it even with the sitting room door open, & radiator off.

    I was in another (!!!) shop today looking and the guy recommended the Boru Carraig Mor 30kw however I was not really mad about the look of the single door and having read up a little about the company I am not sure I want to go with such a young company.

    I really like the look of stoves with double doors as I love being able to see the flames dance. I hate getting rid of the open fire however with the cost of oil it seems so much more cost effective.

    I am also considering adding an extention on to my bungalow in a year or two which would probably add another 3/4 radiators.

    I would appreciate any advice or ideas that you can give. I have been looking at stoves for ages and the little more i know the more confused i get. I really would like to make a decision soon (thinking i already had with the Stockton 14HB however i don't want the smell of burnt meat pervading the house!!!):(

    Many thanks.


    Hi:) Based on your current rad sizes and hot water requirements your looking for a stove with a rated 15kw boiler.
    Based on your room size you need just over 4kw to heat it. If you went higher you could well roast.

    As you will be adding more radiators you may well need an 18kw+ boiler stove.

    The boru carraig mor 20b seems the nearest as it seems it has 16kw to water and 4kw to room. It wouldn't run any more rads as its at full capacity.

    You could go with the stratford TF90B.
    It doesn't have the best reviews in the world. see. www.whatstove.co.uk Look up Aarrow.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/other-information/stratford-tf-and-ti-models.html

    There is this stove with 70,000btu to water and 3.7kw to room. This has two boilers fitted linked together.
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/20kwfireview.ashx Woodwarm would be my first choice for stoves but rather expensive at between £2000 for the 53,000btu boiler or 2,400 for the 70,000btu version with thermostat.


    The problem I am having is finding a boiler stove with a large boiler output and low room output.
    I think I would just install a inset boiler stove and heat less radiators. something like the Aarrow EB12 inset HE. 12kw to water and 5kw to room.
    Stove Fan:)


  • #735
    enigma1ie
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12 ✭enigma1ie


    Hi, I'm currently looking at getting in a stove with built in boiler and running 6 rads of it, I came accross a company in newbridge called newbridge gas and fireplace centre, they will do the entire job and associated works from start to finish, which is what I want (someone who'll do both the plumbing and stove related work). My question is, has anybody got work done by them before? or heard anything about them? good or bad? If anybody knows of another company that would also do such a job, could you please tell me their name. Thanks


    Mod note: Just moving this to the stoves section. Hope you get better replies.


  • #736
    roy rodgers
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,492 ✭✭✭roy rodgers


    I'd run a mile from them. their after sales is terrible and I could keep going but I'm not saying anymore on here as this his not the place for it.

    look around I think wren fireplaces would do the whole job that your looking for or fordes of kilcock.


  • #737
    enigma1ie
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12 ✭enigma1ie


    how about the job they did? was it you that had the bad experience?


  • #738
    doniepony
    Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭doniepony


    Hey everyone

    I am putting stoves into my new build and with a few alterations to my upstairs-there is now 2 turns in the flue of the stove I will be using most often. I know this is ideal for an open fire but is it going to be alot of trouble with my stove (charnwood 1) when it goes it> One of the turns is 45 degrees and the other is less but goin in the opposite direction. Is there anything I could do to help the situation in the long run?


  • #739
    Kirm2
    Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Kirm2


    Please Stovefan can you help??

    I got my Green Stove 5kw insert fitted about a month ago. We got the back panel fitted aswell as our fire orignally had a canopy and so had to be changed. The back panel has been replaced 3 times so far as the first marble one cracked, then the next cast iron one was too small and they tried to fill the top with cement which gave way within a couple of days :mad: leave a 1cm gap between the panel and the mantlepiece. We have just had the proper size fitted and so am hoping this is going to be ok, but will give it a week or so to see. So not a good experience from the beginning.

    Anyway, what I'm really wondering about is.... since all this has been happening we have been lighting the stove but I can't seem to get it hot. I was told that it should be hopping hot and the heat would be amazing but its not. I've had it lighting since 11am and its now 5pm and I'd say its hotish to touch but not giving out this amazing heat I was told about. My open fire gave out so much heat that you would feel the heat as soon as you come into the room - but this is basically very very disappointing. I am burning mostly coal and some wood. The valves are open and the coal is red hot inside. When I open the door of the stove its like opening to the sahara dessert but when the door is closed we are feeling hardly any heat. Can you please tell me what I am doing wrong? Is there a chance that the stove that was fitted could be a 3kw? Is there anyway of telling?

    Also the wind is howling down the chimney at the moment and its obviously getting into the stove as the flames are going beserk with the wind..... is this supposed to happen?

    Would sincerely appreciate your opinion, thanks.


  • #740
    ewanalex
    Closed Accounts Posts: 39 ✭ewanalex


    Hi all, we are considering a Hestia stove and hoped that i could find someone that has one installed to provide us with some advice...

    It is the DOUBLE SIDED BACK BOILER MODEL that we need info on.

    Has anyone any information on Hestia Stoves?

    We are struggling to find double sided back boiler stoves, we have only found the Boru ones or the Hestia model.

    Many thanks


  • #741
    Mcorriga
    Registered Users Posts: 40 ✭Mcorriga


    Hi all,

    Has anyone got any expierence of using a Flue Boiler .

    If so are they any good?? Can they be easily integrated into my heating system.

    Currently I am planning a new build and am looking at ways to get more out of a stove im putting in.

    I am not planning on putting in a back boiler as we will be out at work all day and when we come home we want instant heat from it and not wait for it to heat the water and then the room.

    I have attached two links below of such a system.

    http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/Flue-Boiler-Hot-Water-Exchanger-5-7kW_P163733C13507.cfm

    http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/flue-boiler.aspx


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  • #742
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Kirm2 wrote: »
    Please Stovefan can you help??

    I got my Green Stove 5kw insert fitted about a month ago. We got the back panel fitted aswell as our fire orignally had a canopy and so had to be changed. The back panel has been replaced 3 times so far as the first marble one cracked, then the next cast iron one was too small and they tried to fill the top with cement which gave way within a couple of days :mad: leave a 1cm gap between the panel and the mantlepiece. We have just had the proper size fitted and so am hoping this is going to be ok, but will give it a week or so to see. So not a good experience from the beginning.

    Anyway, what I'm really wondering about is.... since all this has been happening we have been lighting the stove but I can't seem to get it hot. I was told that it should be hopping hot and the heat would be amazing but its not. I've had it lighting since 11am and its now 5pm and I'd say its hotish to touch but not giving out this amazing heat I was told about. My open fire gave out so much heat that you would feel the heat as soon as you come into the room - but this is basically very very disappointing. I am burning mostly coal and some wood. The valves are open and the coal is red hot inside. When I open the door of the stove its like opening to the sahara dessert but when the door is closed we are feeling hardly any heat. Can you please tell me what I am doing wrong? Is there a chance that the stove that was fitted could be a 3kw? Is there anyway of telling?

    Also the wind is howling down the chimney at the moment and its obviously getting into the stove as the flames are going beserk with the wind..... is this supposed to happen?

    Would sincerely appreciate your opinion, thanks.

    Hi I'm not up on the green stoves but make sure the stove is fitted to installation instructions. It may need to be backfilled with vermiculite. You could ring the manufacturer and ask if it needs to be backfilled with vermiculite. Your chimney sounds as if it may have a strong draw or downdraft and sucking the heat out the fire? A cowel may help.

    Without looking and seeing it it's very hard to diagnose.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #743
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Mcorriga wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Has anyone got any expierence of using a Flue Boiler .

    If so are they any good?? Can they be easily integrated into my heating system.

    Currently I am planning a new build and am looking at ways to get more out of a stove im putting in.

    I am not planning on putting in a back boiler as we will be out at work all day and when we come home we want instant heat from it and not wait for it to heat the water and then the room.

    I have attached two links below of such a system.

    http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/Flue-Boiler-Hot-Water-Exchanger-5-7kW_P163733C13507.cfm

    http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/charnwood-flue-boiler.aspx#


    I think the opinion is mixed. Some say that the heat is needed out the stove to keep the flue hot enough to keep the draw and to limit tar/soot buildup.

    What this device is doing is cooling the flue gases. It probably does work on heating water, you can only try it really:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • #744
    Barrell
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭Barrell


    Please Stove Fan I would greatly appreciate your superb expert advice please

    Can you recommend a stove for my house?

    My house is a dormer house, I currently have an open fire place in my sitting room, an oil fired system which heats radiators and water, house is zoned into living and sleeping area's and I’m looking remove the existing fireplace and fit a free standing boiler stove to heat the room it is located in and also the hot water and radiators. I would use my existing oil burner as a back-up for times when we are too late back to light the fire.

    The sitting room (room to be heated) = 47m³ and the rads are as follows

    2No. 700x500 Single
    3No 1400x500 Single
    3No. 1600x500 Double
    2No. 800x500 Single
    1No. 1100x500 Double
    1No. 600 x 500 Double
    1No. 600x300 Single

    Thanking you in advance


  • #745
    doniepony
    Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭doniepony


    Stovefan

    Sorry for re-post but just a little worried about this

    I am puttin a Charnwood Island 1 stove into my new build and because of a few alterations to my upstairs-there is now 2 turns in the flue. This is the stove I will be using most often. I know this is ideal for an open fire but is it going to be alot of trouble with my stove when it goes in. One of the turns is 45 degrees and the other is less but is going in the opposite direction. Is there anything I could do to help the situation in the long run?


  • #746
    Kirm2
    Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Kirm2


    Thanks so much Stovefan - we have had nothing but problems since this company came to our home. My fireplace wall is destroyed and the fixings on the surround are literally beginning to come out of the wall.

    Rang the manufacturers and they said that it definitely sounded like an installation problem - the fireplace company installed it.

    So, have gotten back onto the company and said we are not happy with the service or the stove and they are going to take the whole lot out next week and restoring our old fireplace.

    Definitely not the situation we wanted to be in, but this didn't work out at all.

    May think of an insert like the Stanley Cara, but not too sure about how to get it fitted as slope needs to be taken out of the chimney. We want someone to do it properly this time without wrecking my home! Any suggestions?

    Thanks so much for your time.


  • #747
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Kirm2 wrote: »
    Thanks so much Stovefan - we have had nothing but problems since this company came to our home. My fireplace wall is destroyed and the fixings on the surround are literally beginning to come out of the wall.

    Rang the manufacturers and they said that it definitely sounded like an installation problem - the fireplace company installed it.

    So, have gotten back onto the company and said we are not happy with the service or the stove and they are going to take the whole lot out next week and restoring our old fireplace.

    Definitely not the situation we wanted to be in, but this didn't work out at all.

    May think of an insert like the Stanley Cara, but not too sure about how to get it fitted as slope needs to be taken out of the chimney. We want someone to do it properly this time without wrecking my home! Any suggestions?

    Thanks so much for your time.

    I'm very sorry to hear of your bad experiance with the stove fitters. Don't be too put off as youll love your stove when you have it:) I can't help with installers here as I'm a plumber and fitted my own. At least the fitters have admitted there is a problem and is coming to re do the damage.

    An insert stove sounds like the best plan and takes about 4 hours work in a good condition chimney and flat fronted fireplace. This slope at the back sounds like the clay fireback. Some inset stoves are designed to leave this in place and some you have to chop it out. Either way it shouldn't of been a disaster:mad:

    If you could PM or post a photo of your fireplace I'll advice on the best course of action:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • #748
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    doniepony wrote: »
    Stovefan

    Sorry for re-post but just a little worried about this

    I am puttin a Charnwood Island 1 stove into my new build and because of a few alterations to my upstairs-there is now 2 turns in the flue. This is the stove I will be using most often. I know this is ideal for an open fire but is it going to be alot of trouble with my stove when it goes in. One of the turns is 45 degrees and the other is less but is going in the opposite direction. Is there anything I could do to help the situation in the long run?

    Hi:) It's a misconception that bends in a flue are good when in fact a straight flue is the best. One where you can see daylight when looked up.

    Are you saying that the flue goes vertical then bends left or right then vertically up and another bend on that and then vertical? Any chance of drawing it in paint or describing the layout exactly?

    Is this clay lined? If it is I would be seriously tempted to line it with a stainless steel flexi liner. The bends depending how well the liners were installed could trap soot at each join. The liner is the better job in this case and make sweeping easier.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #749
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Barrell wrote: »
    Please Stove Fan I would greatly appreciate your superb expert advice please

    Can you recommend a stove for my house?

    My house is a dormer house, I currently have an open fire place in my sitting room, an oil fired system which heats radiators and water, house is zoned into living and sleeping area's and I’m looking remove the existing fireplace and fit a free standing boiler stove to heat the room it is located in and also the hot water and radiators. I would use my existing oil burner as a back-up for times when we are too late back to light the fire.

    The sitting room (room to be heated) = 47m³ and the rads are as follows

    2No. 700x500 Single
    3No 1400x500 Single
    3No. 1600x500 Double
    2No. 800x500 Single
    1No. 1100x500 Double
    1No. 600 x 500 Double
    1No. 600x300 Single

    Thanking you in advance

    Hi:) based on your rad sizes you need a 19kw boiler on you stove, with 8kw to room based on a 7mx6.7m by 2.5m ceilings.

    Are any of the above rads in the room where the stove is as you could then buy a smaller boilered stove?

    Currently I would look at the Aarrow EB18HE stove.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb18-he.html

    Inis mor may be a possible. Looks like 16-18kw to water 6-8kw to room.
    http://www.inisstoves.ie/~margaret/index.php/stoves/boiler-stoves/inis-mor

    There is the brosely hercules 30b.
    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifuel-Stoves/Hercules-30B_Boiler-Stove.html 8kw to room 22kw to water.

    Are you sure you want to heat all the rads at the same time? You could fit a smaller boiler stove and only use some zones? Like this: up to 12kw to water 6kw to room. It would be easier on fuel and still heat over half the rads.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html

    Please though before purchasing a stove get an engineer in to size the stove and boiler required. This is a rough quide only.
    I take it the heating system is open vented and cylinder in hotpress.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #750
    Barrell
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭Barrell


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) based on your rad sizes you need a 19kw boiler on you stove, with 8kw to room based on a 7mx6.7m by 2.5m ceilings.

    Are any of the above rads in the room where the stove is as you could then buy a smaller boilered stove?

    Currently I would look at the Aarrow EB18HE stove.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb18-he.html

    Inis mor may be a possible. Looks like 16-18kw to water 6-8kw to room.
    http://www.inisstoves.ie/~margaret/index.php/stoves/boiler-stoves/inis-mor

    There is the brosely hercules 30b.
    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifuel-Stoves/Hercules-30B_Boiler-Stove.html 8kw to room 22kw to water.

    Are you sure you want to heat all the rads at the same time? You could fit a smaller boiler stove and only use some zones? Like this: up to 12kw to water 6kw to room. It would be easier on fuel and still heat over half the rads.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html

    Please though before purchasing a stove get an engineer in to size the stove and boiler required. This is a rough quide only.
    I take it the heating system is open vented and cylinder in hotpress.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks stove fan for taking the time to help me out

    I'll be getting a plumber in before any work, i'm just trying to price what i'm looking at and size of opening i need in fireplace etc

    The sitting room (room to be heated) = 4.675 x 4.0 x 2. 5 = 47m³ and not 7.0 x 6.7 x2.5 so i presume i need slightly smaller Kw output for room and yes this room has a 1400x500 double radiator.

    I agree with you i never have them all rads on together and can only use some zones. So the http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html is my best option i'd say, is this a good make?


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  • #751
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Barrell wrote: »
    Thanks stove fan for taking the time to help me out

    I'll be getting a plumber in before any work, i'm just trying to price what i'm looking at and size of opening i need in fireplace etc

    The sitting room (room to be heated) = 4.675 x 4.0 x 2. 5 = 47m³ and not 7.0 x 6.7 x2.5 so i presume i need slightly smaller Kw output for room and yes this room has a 1400x500 double radiator.

    I agree with you i never have them all rads on together and can only use some zones. So the http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb12-he.html is my best option i'd say, is this a good make?


    Hi sorry for the mix up I didn't read it right thought it was m2:rolleyes:
    Looking at your room size I think you need no more than 3kw to room to heat the room. You will not find a stove output this low. You may be best to buy an inset boiler stove rather than a freestanding one as they produce less heat to room.
    The aarrow EB series are new out but seem well made but even the EB12 inset stove still produces 5kw to room although I would be surprised if it does given it's size.

    The esse 350 greenswitch may be an option 12kw boiler 3.6kw to room.

    I have had a look for freestanding stoves and not found any with very low heat output to room, but still with at least 12kw to water.

    Stove Fan:)


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