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Tech Support for Aritech Alarm systems

12467…10

Comments

  • #152
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    An easier option if you can get someone to watch the meter is to disconnect the zone in the panel and connect the meter there with the resistors disconnected from the loop. Go around tapping and opening each sensor about 10 times. After doing each tap or opening the reading should return to normal. An intermittent fault hopefully will show up. I would set the meter to 200 ohms first, test the loop then if not found use the continuity setting to see if you can find the fault. There may be more than one faulty device on the loop.

    www.altor.ie



  • #153
    alliv
    Registered Users Posts: 10 ✭alliv


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Big Lounge?If you have a multi meter you can:

    Disconnect the zone from the panel & remove any end of line resistors,
    Set you meter to continuity and connect the pair to the 2 meter leads.
    on a lenght of cable long enough to reach all your windows on that zone.
    Make a note of the reading in ohms. One by one tape evey sensor & open and close every contact. After a tap or an open close the resistence should return to the same value. If it does not disconnect that device , close of the pair wired into it & move on. Replace any that you had to close off.
    @altor
    An easier option if you can get someone to watch the meter is to disconnect the zone in the panel and connect the meter there with the resistors disconnected from the loop. Go around tapping and opening each sensor about 10 times. After doing each tap or opening the reading should return to normal. An intermittent fault hopefully will show up. I would set the meter to 200 ohms first, test the loop then if not found use the continuity setting to see if you can find the fault. There may be more than one faulty device on the loop.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    thanks guys. tried to answer you back last night but had problems posting. the alarm was in the house when we got here 10 yrs ago. the girl we bought it off had the alarm installed by her bro. he has 4 windows and the back door on the same zone. would love to change that some day. thanks for your suggestions . i will be working most of the weekend so it will be mid-week before i get a chance to look at it.cheers


  • #154
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Your welcome, if you have any other problems let us know.

    www.altor.ie



  • #155
    alliv
    Registered Users Posts: 10 ✭alliv


    alliv wrote: »
    @altor
    An easier option if you can get someone to watch the meter is to disconnect the zone in the panel and connect the meter there with the resistors disconnected from the loop. Go around tapping and opening each sensor about 10 times. After doing each tap or opening the reading should return to normal. An intermittent fault hopefully will show up. I would set the meter to 200 ohms first, test the loop then if not found use the continuity setting to see if you can find the fault. There may be more than one faulty device on the loop.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^
    thanks guys. tried to answer you back last night but had problems posting. the alarm was in the house when we got here 10 yrs ago. the girl we bought it off had the alarm installed by her bro. he has 4 windows and the back door on the same zone. would love to change that some day. thanks for your suggestions . i will be working most of the weekend so it will be mid-week before i get a chance to look at it.cheers

    guy,s i cant thank you enough. with your help i was able to pin it down to junction where 2 lots of wires where connected. it was down low near the floor and when the wife was washing the floor over the years liquid must have got in and corroder the connections. striped it down and redone it and hey presto.was a worry as we had a robbery outside the house and the cops took the cctv from me and the guys are on the street after seeing the cctv footage. herself is sh*ting herself they will come and pay us a visit.BIG BIG THANK YOU AGAIN.


  • #156
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Glad you got it sorted. And without needing to replace anything. Well done :)


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  • #157
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    alliv wrote: »
    guy,s i cant thank you enough. with your help i was able to pin it down to junction where 2 lots of wires where connected. it was down low near the floor and when the wife was washing the floor over the years liquid must have got in and corroder the connections. striped it down and redone it and hey presto.was a worry as we had a robbery outside the house and the cops took the cctv from me and the guys are on the street after seeing the cctv footage. herself is sh*ting herself they will come and pay us a visit.BIG BIG THANK YOU AGAIN.

    Good to see you got it sorted alliv.
    Hidden junction boxes are always a nightmare :D

    www.altor.ie



  • #158
    alliv
    Registered Users Posts: 10 ✭alliv


    guy,s i,m back for more.lol. i found a few window contact sets in the garage in an old bag. how do i wire them to the existing setup? ie. can i wire another contact off one of the existing ones? some are wired with 4 wires and some are with 2 wires.thanks in advance.


  • #159
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    The 2 silver terminals are the contact. The other 2 wires will generally be joined. They are the tamper loop. Both loops are wired in series.
    mag_con_multiple_wiring.gif


  • #160
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    alliv wrote: »
    guy,s i,m back for more.lol. i found a few window contact sets in the garage in an old bag. how do i wire them to the existing setup? ie. can i wire another contact off one of the existing ones? some are wired with 4 wires and some are with 2 wires.thanks in advance.

    Very easy to do, all you are doing is connecting the new contact in series with the original sensor. If you have two reds across the contact disconnect one and connect to the reed on the new device. Connect a wire from the the other side of the reed terminal to where the first red was. If there is a resistor, reconnect this in the last device on the loop.

    www.altor.ie



  • #161
    d3481553
    Registered Users Posts: 29 ✭d3481553


    I'm hoping someone may be able to help with an issue I'm having with a PIR in my apartment. The systems an Aritech CS-25012.

    Its the hall PIR - symptoms are 2-fold...

    1) When I'm in the hall with the alarm disarmed and the PIR detects movement (i.e. you see the red LED on the PIR), the orange 'Trouble' LED flashes on the control panel for a couple of seconds at the same time.

    2) When I set the alarm to go out and then come back, I get my 30 second entry timer and disarm the alarm, but when I turn the corner to walk down the hall, the hall PIR trips and sets off the alarm even though I've just disarmed it, so I have to go back to the control panel and put the code in again to stop the alarm going off.

    I've gone through the user menu and the engineering menu and I can't see anywhere that indicates that theres anything wrong with that PIR.

    Do you think resetting the system might fix this or will I need an engineer to replace the PIR?

    Thanks in advance,

    Alan.


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  • #162
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    d3481553 wrote: »
    I'm hoping someone may be able to help with an issue I'm having with a PIR in my apartment. The systems an Aritech CS-25012.

    Its the hall PIR - symptoms are 2-fold...

    1) When I'm in the hall with the alarm disarmed and the PIR detects movement (i.e. you see the red LED on the PIR), the orange 'Trouble' LED flashes on the control panel for a couple of seconds at the same time.

    2) When I set the alarm to go out and then come back, I get my 30 second entry timer and disarm the alarm, but when I turn the corner to walk down the hall, the hall PIR trips and sets off the alarm even though I've just disarmed it, so I have to go back to the control panel and put the code in again to stop the alarm going off.

    I've gone through the user menu and the engineering menu and I can't see anywhere that indicates that theres anything wrong with that PIR.

    Do you think resetting the system might fix this or will I need an engineer to replace the PIR?

    Thanks in advance,

    Alan.

    When you disarm the system after the orange trouble light comes on does it tell you what the fault is ?

    www.altor.ie



  • #163
    d3481553
    Registered Users Posts: 29 ✭d3481553


    No, when I go through the logs after the alarms gone off, it lists a zone tamper, which I think just means that a sensors been tripped?


  • #164
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    d3481553 wrote: »
    No, when I go through the logs after the alarms gone off, it lists a zone tamper, which I think just means that a sensors been tripped?

    More than likely a fault with the PIR as its the only detector your walking in front of. It is easy enough to swap this out yourself if you get the same type that is installed there will be no drilling either. Here is a link to the supplier list to get a replacement.

    Any problems let us know.

    www.altor.ie



  • #165
    d3481553
    Registered Users Posts: 29 ✭d3481553


    Great, thanks for that altor, I'll give that a go and see how I get on ;)


  • #166
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    d3481553 wrote: »
    Great, thanks for that altor, I'll give that a go and see how I get on ;)

    Do, if you have any problems you will get all the help you need here :D

    www.altor.ie



  • #167
    pmurphy7
    Registered Users Posts: 23 ✭pmurphy7


    I had my Aritech 350 repaired by Koolkid, great job and appreciated him calling over Friday late afternoon to unlock the panel, repair a sensor and get the alarm working. There are still some decent tradesman about.


  • #168
    Jnealon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,064 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    Here we go again:rolleyes:
    Another fanclub starting


  • #169
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    One post is fine. As long as it doesn't turn into another love story. :D


  • #170
    skiman
    Registered Users Posts: 31 ✭skiman


    Hi,

    Is it posible to add a reed contact to an aritech inertia shock sensor. My alarm is an Aritech CP35, using 4 core wire to each sensor.

    Two wires usually the Blue and Black ones go to the tamper slots. The Red and Yellow go to the other contacts. I have supplied an attached crude drawing of the terminal set up. The large square with the circle insert represents the shoch sensor.

    My question is, how do I contact a reed contact to this sensor?

    Thanks in advance

    Skiman


  • #171
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Very easy, all you have to do is wire the contact in series with the red cable.
    So basically you remove the red cable, connect one side of the contact to that and connect the other side back into the sensor. Do the same with the tamper.

    www.altor.ie



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  • #172
    skiman
    Registered Users Posts: 31 ✭skiman


    Altor,

    Thanks for that

    Skiman


  • #173
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    skiman wrote: »
    Altor,

    Thanks for that

    Skiman

    Always happy to help skiman :D

    www.altor.ie



  • #174
    skiman
    Registered Users Posts: 31 ✭skiman


    I am trying to connect a reed contact to an aritech inertia shock sensor that is part of a loop, ie, two sets of wires coming from the panel and previous sensor on loop. The wiring is as follows one (1) Blue wire from each set to the tamper terminals. One (1) Red wire from each to the alarm contacts. Black is joined to Black, Yellow joined to Yellow from both wire sets.

    I connected the wires as suggested above but the alarm won't set, ie. it activates.

    I'd appreciate some advice.

    Skiman


  • #175
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    skiman wrote: »
    I am trying to connect a reed contact to an aritech inertia shock sensor that is part of a loop, ie, two sets of wires coming from the panel and previous sensor on loop. The wiring is as follows one (1) Blue wire from each set to the tamper terminals. One (1) Red wire from each to the alarm contacts. Black is joined to Black, Yellow joined to Yellow from both wire sets.

    I connected the wires as suggested above but the alarm won't set, ie. it activates.

    I'd appreciate some advice.

    Skiman

    Again this needs to be wired in series on the loop. The two red cables are put across the shock sensor in the zone. What this does if the shock is activated then the loop opens and activates the alarm. To wire a contact into the shock you take one of the cables going into the shock sensor and connect it to one side of the contact. The other cable will go back into the shock terminal where you removed the original cable from.

    If this is not working I would suggest getting a meter and set it on continuity to check the magnet is lined up correctly on the contact to close the loop, another issue may be the colours used in the contact itself. Some are red and black for the contact and some are red and yellow. Different manufacturers use different colours.

    Any other problems, let us know.

    www.altor.ie



  • #176
    cryano
    Registered Users Posts: 31 ✭cryano


    My power went off for a couple of seconds this morning. About 10 mins later the alarm went off. Keypad is completely unresponive. Display just says "CS-XXX keypad V1.5".

    I turned off the circuit breaker to turn off alarm and I'm not getting the red power light.

    Any ideas?


  • #177
    Jnealon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,064 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    it needs a new battery, 12v 7Ah should fit


  • #178
    cryano
    Registered Users Posts: 31 ✭cryano


    Thanks Jnealon. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. That seem to have fixed it for now. Might pick up a new battery after Christmas. Are they expensive?


  • #179
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Try some of the suppliers here
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055956748
    Keep away from maplins and the likes. They will charge you double or treble the price .


  • #180
    Jnealon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,064 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    cryano wrote: »
    Thanks Jnealon. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. That seem to have fixed it for now. Might pick up a new battery after Christmas. Are they expensive?
    No problem
    IGT in Lucan or MEW in Leixlip, beside lidl. MEW might be a bit expensive
    Probably best to sort it out before christmas, the last thing you want is your alarm going bananas when everywhere is closed


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  • #181
    cryano
    Registered Users Posts: 31 ✭cryano


    Thanks lads.

    I'll probably pick one up in MEW in Leixlip tomorrow. Got a few bit n pieces from them before, seem fairly sound.

    Thanks for all the help.


  • #182
    brinks_18476
    Closed Accounts Posts: 262 ✭✭brinks_18476


    Hi Guys,

    I guess that Aritech wireless components would not be compatable with say a Signet panel?

    Is this the case even though they work on same radio frequency?

    Thanks.


  • #183
    Jnealon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,064 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    brinks_18476 wrote: »
    Hi Guys,

    I guess that Aritech wireless components would not be compatable with say a Signet panel?

    Is this the case even though they work on same radio frequency?

    Thanks.

    Correct, they will not work.


  • #184
    t m
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭t m


    Hi can someone please advise on the following
    we have an aritech alarm fitted the warning light stating that the battery had failed came on a few days ago. Today the power supply to the house failed for a few minutes when it came back on the alarm panel would not work and read the following as far as i can recall ' IMPUT UNIT NO # + ' thanks in advance for any advice


  • #185
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    It needs a new battery.
    What panel is it?


  • #186
    irishmotorist
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,268 ✭✭✭irishmotorist


    Hi,
    I have a Scopetronic system that gives regular false alarms when the system is set. I'm pretty sure I know which sensor is causing the problem - it's branded Aritech and I reckon it's an inertia sensor - see the pics. Usually slamming the window that it's on will give me a couple of days of no false alarms.
    Am I right in thinking that fixing it is as simple as buying the same sensor and just wiring it back the same way?


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  • #187
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    irishmotorist wrote: »
    Hi,
    I have a Scopetronic system that gives regular false alarms when the system is set. I'm pretty sure I know which sensor is causing the problem - it's branded Aritech and I reckon it's an inertia sensor - see the pics. Usually slamming the window that it's on will give me a couple of days of no false alarms.
    Am I right in thinking that fixing it is as simple as buying the same sensor and just wiring it back the same way?

    Any global inertia/contact will work as a replacement. Only a test of the sensors with a multimeter will find the fault, if there is more than one you may have more than one faulty device. If it is the only one on the zone then you may be correct assuming this is the faulty one.

    www.altor.ie



  • #188
    t m
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭t m


    KoolKid wrote: »
    It needs a new battery.
    What panel is it?

    Thanks for your reply the panel control box is cs250 I replaced the battery correctly tonight but the control pad will still not work it just flashes the following ' Please Install No + # ' I also tried turning the power on and off to the house
    Thanks again in advance for any help


  • #189
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    t m wrote: »
    Thanks for your reply the panel control box is cs250 I replaced the battery correctly tonight but the control pad will still not work it just flashes the following ' Please Install No + # ' I also tried turning the power on and off to the house
    Thanks again in advance for any help

    Press no and # to initilise the keypad on the system. Have you any wire free devices on the system ?

    www.altor.ie



  • #190
    t m
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭t m


    altor wrote: »
    Press no and # to initilise the keypad on the system. Have you any wire free devices on the system ?
    Hi I did the above and the control pad then asked me to put in the date and time which all seemed fine then things got complicated the display went onto zones I have 6 zones all wired motion detectors .I was not sure what to put in for zone 1 so I pressed ok for exit zone which it is . I then set the alarm by pressing f2 which is the normal setting for when I am in the house as it will not set off the motion detectors upstairs but will downstairs. leave now appeared on the panel but when I went upstairs the alarm went off. It would not accept the code to turn it off. The only way that I could stop the alarm was to take out the battery and turn off the fuse for the alarm.
    Thanks once again for any advice


  • #191
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    t m wrote: »
    Hi I did the above and the control pad then asked me to put in the date and time which all seemed fine then things got complicated the display went onto zones I have 6 zones all wired motion detectors .I was not sure what to put in for zone 1 so I pressed ok for exit zone which it is . I then set the alarm by pressing f2 which is the normal setting for when I am in the house as it will not set off the motion detectors upstairs but will downstairs. leave now appeared on the panel but when I went upstairs the alarm went off. It would not accept the code to turn it off. The only way that I could stop the alarm was to take out the battery and turn off the fuse for the alarm.
    Thanks once again for any advice

    The system has being defaulted to factory settings. 1122 user, 1278 engineer.

    www.altor.ie



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  • #192
    t m
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭t m


    altor wrote: »
    The system has being defaulted to factory settings. 1122 user, 1278 engineer.
    thanks for your help now I just have to figure out how to reprogramme the zones


  • #193
    Gerard93
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭Gerard93


    I have an Aritech system installed about 18 months, I am trying to post a pic of the Panel & Sensor (which I can't seem to do). Its monitored.
    There are Inertia "Shockgard" sensors on the windows with an LED if you tap the window the Led will turn Red/Green, however this is not happening with one of the sensors, no LED illuminating.
    1). Is it possible to do a System test on the alarm to check this sensor?
    2). If the LED is not illuminating would this indicate the sensor is faulty, is it easy to replace etc.


    I would be grateful for any suggestions etc. - Thanks.

    Ger.


  • #194
    Jnealon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,064 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    The led might not be enabled on that particular sensor.
    You should have an option to walk test from the user menu, failing that ring the central station and tell them you are going to set off the alarm.
    Before going all diy on the alarm you should contact your alarm company as you may invalidate any warranty you have with them


  • #195
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    t m wrote: »
    thanks for your help now I just have to figure out how to reprogramme the zones

    Very easy to do. Enter the default engineer code, go into inputs, press ok, then into zones. You will need to find out how the zone is installed, then set it up for duel, single or non end of line in loop type. Zone name, zone type and if excluded in part arm will be set up in there. For the function keys, go into engineering, scroll to installation, press ok, then scroll to function keys to set them up.

    Any other problems let us know.

    www.altor.ie



  • #196
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Gerard93 wrote: »
    I have an Aritech system installed about 18 months, I am trying to post a pic of the Panel & Sensor (which I can't seem to do). Its monitored.
    There are Inertia "Shockgard" sensors on the windows with an LED if you tap the window the Led will turn Red/Green, however this is not happening with one of the sensors, no LED illuminating.
    1). Is it possible to do a System test on the alarm to check this sensor?
    2). If the LED is not illuminating would this indicate the sensor is faulty, is it easy to replace etc.


    I would be grateful for any suggestions etc. - Thanks.

    Ger.

    Setting the alarm and activating the sensor is the only way if you cant walk test the system. I would get whoever maintains the system to have a look at it if it is monitored.

    www.altor.ie



  • #197
    Gerard93
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭Gerard93


    Jnealon wrote: »
    The led might not be enabled on that particular sensor.

    As far as I can remember the LED was working.
    Setting the alarm and activating the sensor is the only way if you cant walk test the system. I would get whoever maintains the system to have a look at it if it is monitored

    I'll do this, set the alarm and see if the sensor will activate. I don;'t have a maintaince on the system as such only a monitoring contract, if the sensor isn't working I'll give them a call.

    Thanks for the replies.


  • #198
    roshellvas
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2 ✭roshellvas


    I have got a CS275 and a DD100 that I would like to connect with a 4-wire cable. Here are the schemes:

    25ix0z8.png

    I would connect Z1 with number 3, COM with number 7, and put 4k7 resistors between 4 and 6 and between 3 and 4 (double loop configuration). But then I'm clueless about the power. I get get +12V from AUX+, but where is GND for the -0V?


  • #199
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    12V for the ground should come off one of the common terminals. Put your meter across these to confirm.

    www.altor.ie



  • #200
    t m
    Registered Users Posts: 9 ✭t m


    altor wrote: »
    Very easy to do. Enter the default engineer code, go into inputs, press ok, then into zones. You will need to find out how the zone is installed, then set it up for duel, single or non end of line in loop type. Zone name, zone type and if excluded in part arm will be set up in there. For the function keys, go into engineering, scroll to installation, press ok, then scroll to function keys to set them up.

    Any other problems let us know.

    thanks for your help it allowed me to set the alarm when not in the house but to reprogram it correctly I had to speak to an engineer over the phone took about 25 mins in total to program and test total cost 40 euros not too bad once again thanks for your help


  • #201
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,762 ✭✭✭✭altor


    t m wrote: »
    thanks for your help it allowed me to set the alarm when not in the house but to reprogram it correctly I had to speak to an engineer over the phone took about 25 mins in total to program and test total cost 40 euros not too bad once again thanks for your help

    Your welcome ;)

    www.altor.ie



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