OK Curran, Carpro advice.

Total CarPro Treatment?? Everything? Paint, Wheels, Trim, Glass, Leather, Tyres and Engine plastics?? :P

Paint
You know the ins and outs of requesting the car not to be touched by the garage on delivery, etc
You dont need the full run down on how to prepare the paintwork....Wash, De-Iron, Rinse, Clay, Wash, Dry....there should obviously be no tar, or a need to polish.

So after the surface has been prep'd you'll need to do a wipedown to ensure the best possible bond of the coating; CarPro's Eraser is the wipedown in the range, but you know yourself what can be used in place....the coating comes with some, so perhaps one wipedown with something and a 2nd with Eraser to ensure 100% coverage.
CarPro CQUK is quite easy to apply, you know yourself, not to drown the applicator (or suede cloth in this case), and ensure even coverage
This will visualise the application for you! As you can see, curing time is short, but may be a bit longer depending on the weather.



Wheels & Trim
Good news, CarPro DLUX is a dual product; so can be used on Wheels and Trim; though I doubt there is much, if any that needs coating...the roof bars if you are getting the estate??
Essentially the prep is the same - good good clean (IronX the wheels), rinse, dry, Eraser wipedown and apply.





Glass
Dont know if its something you considered? Or even like on your glass, but there are two options in the CarPro range
Flyby Forte - the more durable of the two options, but beading happens at slightly higher speeds
Flyby 30 - still a durable choice, but beading happens at 30+mph

As ever, the prep is the key!
Before starting – empty your washer bottle, refill with just water and empty again….then fill with just water; should be sufficient to keep the glass clean.
Give the wipers a wipe down with Eraser also, if you’ve some left over at the end, use the damp applicator, to give the wiper blades (when dry) a light rub also, this will help.



See how, once the coating is applied, it doesn’t take much time to cure….it needs to set slightly and then buffed off, to ensure that any high spots during application are levelled by the buffing and this cant happen if the coating has hardened.
Therefore, if you are applying it to all the windows, it makes sense, to do as much prep as possible at the one time….but the coating needs to be done in sections, as you couldn’t apply it to all the windows in time to go back to the first window to buff it, so applying the coating needs to be done, one window at a time and half and half when on the windscreen or rear window…..however, the prep work can all be done at one time – wash all the windows, polish them, wash them, Eraser wipe down….then apply a window at a time.

The product dries hard, and crystalizes, so any applicators or buffing cloths should be binned if the product dries – just in case you planned to keep them for paintwork – it would scratch it!

Leather
Dont have the Cquartz Leather & Vinyl Coat, but can have it in before August. Dr. Leather Dye Block is a simialr product.

With lighter colour leathers, the colour transfer from jeans etc, is the biggest problem. While a coating like these will help limit that slightly, the benefit of having them applied is seen when trying to clean the seats, rather than preventing it. With Dr. Leather Dye Block, the coating is unaffected by their cleaner product, which makes keeping the seats fresh an easy job.

Tyres
And engine bay plastics etc. CarPro PERL is the job; can be used neat for when its needed to be durable, or diluted slightly for engine bay plastics, or further again for interior, etc, if thats your thing....application is the same as any other products you have used.

Maintenance
As with any of the durable coating type products, its always best to use the correct maintenance products - like specific shampoos and quick detailers, etc.
Traditional shampoos can clog the molecular links in the coating, and while it wont attack the coating, it will prevent the usual performance, of appearance and beading. And similar applies for any of the quick detailer / booster type products - choosing the wrong one here, may affect the coating, or have similar clogging effects.
So Reset Shampoo and Reload Spray Sealant are what you want here. Reload cant be used as a stand alone product also, and is very durable. It contains fillers (not that you'll need them), enhances shine and is good for about 4-6 months.

Prep - IronX and Eraser; thought you'll get small bottles of Eraser in kits, its handy to have more.
Paint - CQUK, Reset & Reload
Wheels & Trim - DLUX
Tyres - PERL
Glass - Flyby Forte or Flyby 30
Leather - Dr. Leather Dye Block and Cleaner or CarPro Leather & Vinyl Coat


Hope this helps, and any other questions, fire ahead

vectra wrote: »

I am assuming all of these can be used outdoors as no indoor place is available to me

Yes, within reason, of course!
You'll want to try get the best day possible, you know yourself - dry and not just for the application, but for the period of the curing time post buffing / between coats, also. Needs at least an hour after buffing before it can get wet, and ideally 24 hours, so if it does get wet, best to dry it after a rain shower. Another thing is, not to wash it for 7 days post application. As little wind (for dust) as possible, but given the quick curing time between application and buff, its not a massive issue. And a bit of warmth wouldnt do any harm, though you could be waiting for that day!

CQUK is specifically designed for the type of climate we have, or the UK have. It is designed for the a quicker time between application and buffing than the regular Cquartz....as the climate here/UK is usually more colder, it can be applied from 3 Degrees Celsius upwards; most similar coatings prefer 15-20 upwards.

Have you a picture of what you mean?

I think I know the type of finish that you are questioning and want to be sure....if it's what I think it is, it falls between both, probably the CQUK would be better suited.

Aye; CQUK would be the one to use!!

Yeah; anywhere you are applying CQUK or DLUX, it's best to ensure a good surface, by using Eraser!

Any dirt after the water has dried in?

So kind of you to be the guinea pig

Fantastic on the wheels and bodywork

Why did the tyres go brown?

Thats a very strange reaction on the tyres - I'll look into that!

Looking very well otherwise!

You'd do anything for an easy life!

The CarPro stuff does really work!

What's on the paint, d-lux?

How are you finding white to keep? I've the same colour ordered.

vectra wrote: »

Hi,
The Dlux is on the wheels and the CQUK is on the paint.

White is one of the eaisest color to keep believe it or not.
That and silver.
With the CQUK applied to the paint it is a breeze to keep,
Pressure wash at the local wash bay would probably do most,
But I have a certain neighbour with a very sooty chimney.
You get the jist.
But yes, The wash is simple. Come up spotless.

Well worth using this combo, BUT, You would need inddoors to apply in in this weather.

I have an unopened dlux I'm going to coat the wheels with, I'll be able to take each wheel indoors to apply the coating.

It's doubtful I would have room indoors for CQ application, I think for now I'll just use some HD wax on it.

Curran wrote: »

...

I learnt so much from your post! thank you very much for taking the time to write that n provide the links!

Yeah, you have it right....CarPro Eraser can be used in place of IPA.
Bilt Hamber Auto Foam is an ideal snow foam to use on cars with ceramic coating!