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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,013 ✭✭✭Curious Geroge


    nealger wrote: »
    See screenshot of heating curve. Should i change or not considering the weather lately

    What system is this image off?


  • Registered Users Posts: 536 ✭✭✭Condenser


    nealger wrote: »
    See screenshot of heating curve. Should i change or not considering the weather lately

    Whether you should change the heat curve or not depends on whether the house is reaching the temperature currently set. If the system is set for 21 but only reaching 19 then the heat curve is too low. If its reaching temp and you're feeling cold your temp is set too low for your needs. You shouldn't really have stats when running weather comp as it distorts temperatures so the machine is getting conflicting temps as the stats open and close. It also affects flow rates.
    What heat curve you need depends on the house and the design of the ufh.


  • Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭nakom


    Hi there,

    I have an A2W dimplex pump with rads installed on my new house (about 115 sqm) but I'm not too happy with the heating produced.
    It might takes 5/6 hours to go from 13C to 18C.
    The plumber told me that I should always keep the pump on and regulate the temperature with the thermostats.
    I'm afraid that the bill will be quite expensive if I do so.
    Is he right? Is this the way these pumps work?

    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    nakom wrote: »
    Hi there,

    I have an A2W dimplex pump with rads installed on my new house (about 115 sqm) but I'm not too happy with the heating produced.
    It might takes 5/6 hours to go from 13C to 18C.
    The plumber told me that I should always keep the pump on and regulate the temperature with the thermostats.
    I'm afraid that the bill will be quite expensive if I do so.
    Is he right? Is this the way these pumps work?

    Thanks.
    May I ask how long it takes for the house to drop by 5degs, typically your plumber is correct but we'd need more details. What thermostats have you?


  • Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭nakom


    BryanF wrote: »
    May I ask how long it takes for the house to drop by 5degs, typically your plumber is correct but we'd need more details. What thermostats have you?

    Thanks for the reply Bryan. I'm not sure exactly how long but I guess it would be around 5/6 hours. The house has A3 BER.
    The thermostat is branded flash and has only the temperature setting


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  • Registered Users Posts: 536 ✭✭✭Condenser


    nakom wrote: »
    Hi there,

    I have an A2W dimplex pump with rads installed on my new house (about 115 sqm) but I'm not too happy with the heating produced.
    It might takes 5/6 hours to go from 13C to 18C.
    The plumber told me that I should always keep the pump on and regulate the temperature with the thermostats.
    I'm afraid that the bill will be quite expensive if I do so.
    Is he right? Is this the way these pumps work?

    Thanks.


    You shouldn't really have a heat pump on rads in the first instance but seen as you have you may have to up the outlet temperature from the machine. Rads will need at least 40C plus in order to generate any heat. This will decrease the COP of the heat pump but may be a necessary evil in order to generate heat. A heat pump should be left to monitor all the time and turn on when required but seen as you have no thermal mass in your distribution system this is likely to cut in and out regularly like an oil boiler which with a heat pump is bad news.


  • Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭nakom


    Condenser wrote: »
    You shouldn't really have a heat pump on rads in the first instance but seen as you have you may have to up the outlet temperature from the machine. Rads will need at least 40C plus in order to generate any heat. This will decrease the COP of the heat pump but may be a necessary evil in order to generate heat. A heat pump should be left to monitor all the time and turn on when required but seen as you have no thermal mass in your distribution system this is likely to cut in and out regularly like an oil boiler which with a heat pump is bad news.
    Thanks Condenser. I raised the temperature to the rads to 55 but it's still taking ages to warm up the house. What exactly do you mean by "A heat pump should be left to monitor all the time"?
    The pump has an on/off button on its panel and I leave it always on but in this state it won't produce any heat. Is this the monitor state?
    There's another panel where I switch on/off the heating. The plumber was suggesting to leave always on this last one and then regulate the temperature with the thermostats. When you say bad news, do you mean that in the long term the pump will suffer from this king of use?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,761 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    nakom wrote: »
    Thanks Condenser. I raised the temperature to the rads to 55 but it's still taking ages to warm up the house. What exactly do you mean by "A heat pump should be left to monitor all the time"?
    The pump has an on/off button on its panel and I leave it always on but in this state it won't produce any heat. Is this the monitor state?
    There's another panel where I switch on/off the heating. The plumber was suggesting to leave always on this last one and then regulate the temperature with the thermostats. When you say bad news, do you mean that in the long term the pump will suffer from this king of use?

    I think he means that you should leave your 'heating' always 'on' and let the HP monitor and adjust the heat.

    If you're using the heatpump like a conventional 'boiler' then it's a waste of time and it will cost you money. A2W pump is not what I'd expect to see in a house with rads in the first place, but it's a bit late for that now!

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭nakom


    galwaytt wrote: »
    I think he means that you should leave your 'heating' always 'on' and let the HP monitor and adjust the heat.

    If you're using the heatpump like a conventional 'boiler' then it's a waste of time and it will cost you money.
    Thanks for the clarification. I'll leave it always on then. I just hope it won't cost me a fortune in bills!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    nakom wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply Bryan. I'm not sure exactly how long but I guess it would be around 5/6 hours. The house has A3 BER.
    The thermostat is branded flash and has only the temperature setting

    Jasus 1deg per hour.. that's a lot of heat loss in a new house.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 536 ✭✭✭Condenser


    nakom wrote: »
    Thanks Condenser. I raised the temperature to the rads to 55 but it's still taking ages to warm up the house. What exactly do you mean by "A heat pump should be left to monitor all the time"?
    The pump has an on/off button on its panel and I leave it always on but in this state it won't produce any heat. Is this the monitor state?
    There's another panel where I switch on/off the heating. The plumber was suggesting to leave always on this last one and then regulate the temperature with the thermostats. When you say bad news, do you mean that in the long term the pump will suffer from this king of use?

    You're not in a good position here. With the outlet at 55c your COP will be down 50% and I doubt it was good to start with. If you get cold weather like last week it will be even worse. Your compressor is only going to last about 6yrs running those temps also and you'll have costs equal to or worse than oil. Did you decide to install this yourself or did you buy the house with it in it? I'd like to say your plumber screwed you but the reality is, like the vast mojority of installers, he probably hasn't a clue whether hes done right or wrong cos he doesn't have the first clue how the system works in the first place.
    Your controls sound terrible too and if you read my posts earlier in this thread three of the most important factors in a succesful heat pump are distribution system, installer knowledge and good controls. You've got a bit of a perfect storm going on unfortunately.


  • Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭nakom


    Condenser wrote: »
    You're not in a good position here. With the outlet at 55c your COP will be down 50% and I doubt it was good to start with. If you get cold weather like last week it will be even worse. Your compressor is only going to last about 6yrs running those temps also and you'll have costs equal to or worse than oil. Did you decide to install this yourself or did you buy the house with it in it? I'd like to say your plumber screwed you but the reality is, like the vast mojority of installers, he probably hasn't a clue whether hes done right or wrong cos he doesn't have the first clue how the system works in the first place.
    Your controls sound terrible too and if you read my posts earlier in this thread three of the most important factors in a succesful heat pump are distribution system, installer knowledge and good controls. You've got a bit of a perfect storm going on unfortunately.
    When I bought the house everything was already there.
    Is there any way to get the compressor to last longer?
    Would replacing rads with the so called smart rads do any better?
    If indeed the compressor is going to last around 6 years, what would be the best solution after that?
    Would a G2W pump be more efficient or it doesn't make any difference until I get UFH?


  • Registered Users Posts: 536 ✭✭✭Condenser


    nakom wrote: »
    When I bought the house everything was already there.
    Is there any way to get the compressor to last longer?
    Would replacing rads with the so called smart rads do any better?
    If indeed the compressor is going to last around 6 years, what would be the best solution after that?
    Would a G2W pump be more efficient or it doesn't make any difference until I get UFH?


    Yes you would be better to change the rads to smartrads and fit a buffer store between the heat pump and the rads. You could then run at temps below 40C and your compressor will last longer. Your controls would need to be looked at too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,825 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    nakom wrote: »
    I'm not sure exactly how long but I guess it would be around 5/6 hours. The house has A3 BER.

    :confused:1 degC drop in temperature per hour ... how can this be an A3?

    Goes to show really how useless and unfit for purpose the BER system really is!

    nakom, if I were you I would try to understand the cause of the massive heat loss in the house and address this first before addressing the heat distribution system because if the heat loss is reduced significantly, the heating system (no matter what type) has to do a lot less work as a result.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 Rhue15


    I am about to undertake a building project. I don't even know if those are the correct terms in the title of the post but I am looking for any information on geothermal heating pros and cons (vertical bore) vs air to water? Has anyone any experience. I'll be based in the Northwest, not sure if climate variations have any bearing??
    Any information, experience or advice appreciated! Thanks a million.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,735 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Type your title into the search bar as it's been discussed to death on this forum already


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Rhue15 wrote: »
    I am about to undertake a building project. I don't even know if those are the correct terms in the title of the post but I am looking for any information on geothermal heating pros and cons (vertical bore) vs air to water? Has anyone any experience. I'll be based in the Northwest, not sure if climate variations have any bearing??
    Any information, experience or advice appreciated! Thanks a million.

    Threads merged.

    Read this thread re heat pumps


  • Registered Users Posts: 22,249 ✭✭✭✭Lemlin


    Folks

    My geothermal heat pump was installed in Summer 2011. The company who provided it serviced it in 2012 so I'd now like to get it looked at and serviced as it has been three years since.

    Would anyone be able to pm me the name of someone who could do this? The company who installed mine are no longer operating. I wouldn't mind getting someone independent to look at mine anyway.

    I'm in Cavan and its a Thermia.


  • Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Hi
    I have a different pump , i have set the temp curve around 27 degrees @ 0 degrees outside.
    What you could do is to start low curve and move up slowly measuring the temprature in the rooms with the stats on high temp so that the actuators are open ( or remove them) .
    What also might affect is the flow rate of the water through the loops . you can adjust that by turning the flow meter (transparent plastic with a red gauge in it). it could well be that the flow is too low I discovered that some of the loops upstairs were closed during the build and never openend again hence cold rooms


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 SeanieS


    Returned from a few days away to find the 'next-doors' had mounted an air source heat pump unit 2m up on their gable wall - as far from their line of sight as possible, but in our faces every time we go out to the clothesline, etc. There's also a freezing 'draught' down our path, and noise that is audible in our bedroom opposite and in the nearby utility room and downstairs toilet, particularly on cold nights recently, and at other times too (maybe the defrost cycle?). The unit's facing grille is just 128 cm from our gable wall. We want it moved, but they won't respond. Of course, it's planning exempt, unless we can find a hole in the conditions - the only possibility is 'noise', I think. The data sheet for the model shows 71dbA and 55 dbA for sound force and pressure respectively. The threshold is 43db at our wall, or an excess of 5db over background - which we'll never get without their cooperation.... anyone out there with experience??
    If things worsen, would I get away with putting a screen on our side of the party wall, and having it all the way up to screen off the fromt of the unit - which would then be 16cm away. The unit needs a frontal clearance of 30+ cm, so this screen will effectively 'screw it up'. Would we get pp for such a move, as a way of screening against the wind from the fans? .... desperate and feeling mad at "getting the two fingers" from our erstwhile good neighbours!!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭yermanhimself


    Does anyone have an experience of this type of Heat Pump ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭MortgageBroker


    I have been trying to get somebody to take a look at my heat pump as our bills seem much higher than other people who use them (as in x4). Does anybody have a number of a person who will actually show up? I was in touch with a few heat pump troubleshooters who agreed appointments then never showed.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Does anyone consider noise when installing heat pumps? I was walking through a quiet estate last night and the hum from heat pumps plonked on garage roofs facing their neighbours was quiet loud. Must be the cold weather.. I wonder is this something that will become an issue with the sound regs? ( or subsequent ammendments)


  • Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Hi
    Noise consideration was not really high on the agenda , only when I reviewed the proposed heatpump by my Plumber and heatpump distributor I discovered that its was reasonably quite .. now as you state correctly the colder the weather the more effort the compressor needs to apply to work properly ( hence the efficiencies of an airsource go out the window when it starts seriously getting frosty) . Our heatpump increased in noise over the last cold nights as we are quite rural and the heatpump does not disturb people ( maybe a couple of foxes)

    couple of points though
    - don't mount the heat pump on your exterior wall , vibration will radiate through the house , ours stands on its own
    - don't place it to far our of your house, heatloss is imminent unless you use a zero heatloss pipe = serious money


  • Registered Users Posts: 536 ✭✭✭Condenser


    BryanF wrote: »
    Does anyone consider noise when installing heat pumps? I was walking through a quiet estate last night and the hum from heat pumps plonked on garage roofs facing their neighbours was quiet loud. Must be the cold weather.. I wonder is this something that will become an issue with the sound regs? ( or subsequent ammendments)


    Its a huge issue with air to water, in estates especially. There have been 1,000's of units in Germany that had to be removed because cumulatively they broke noise regulations.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 SeanieS


    I wonder how noise regs are enforced in Germany - nobody seems to know what's the score here? The term 'FROM the (neighbouring) house' leaves a lot to be desired. Is it from inside the house, from the nearest point on the house ... ?? The situation in the UK is sensibly covered in "MCS020: MCS Planning Standards - for permitted development installations of wind turbines and air source heat pumps on domestic premises".... no measurement required, just a straightforward calculation based on the manufacturer's data. If this tool was used here, the situation I described above would be shot down comprehensively - sound pressure at our wall would be calculated as 63db!


  • Registered Users Posts: 536 ✭✭✭Condenser


    SeanieS wrote: »
    I wonder how noise regs are enforced in Germany - nobody seems to know what's the score here? The term 'FROM the (neighbouring) house' leaves a lot to be desired. Is it from inside the house, from the nearest point on the house ... ?? The situation in the UK is sensibly covered in "MCS020: MCS Planning Standards - for permitted development installations of wind turbines and air source heat pumps on domestic premises".... no measurement required, just a straightforward calculation based on the manufacturer's data. If this tool was used here, the situation I described above would be shot down comprehensively - sound pressure at our wall would be calculated as 63db!

    I'm not sure how its policed but no one should be allowed to inflict themselves on their neighbours in the way that yours have. If they caught the garden hose and sprayed it over your wall all day you can be sure it would be stopped. They're doing practically the same to you and increasing the heatloss from your house with the constant supercold air being driven at your gable. Even on mild days that wall will be cold.
    If you can get the air to short cycle and recirculate though the coil it will be a block of ice in a matter of hours. I certainly wouldn't put up with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 SeanieS


    Thanks for that ..... I hadn't actually thought of the 'cold wall' issue. Something else to put into my quantification of the 'problem', before deciding on the next step.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,018 ✭✭✭✭murphaph


    I'm afraid this problem is not regulated at all in Germany either. There's even a campaign website to try to get some regulation in this area. They can be bloody loud in a quiet estate.


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  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 4 speedstar500


    Hi, Can anyone advise on the best brand/model of air to water pump? I have received 4 quotations all of which advise a 14kw pump but all brands are different and there is a €5,000 difference form cheapest to most expensive. Brands quoted were Panasonic, danfoss, dimplex and hitachi.

    Many thanks


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