Damoedge wrote: Any help or recommendations on other showers please....would really appreciate it...
Sleeper12 wrote: » The triton t90sr is 9kw, the same as the mira elite qt. The kW determines the water pressure. You can are talking 2.5 / 3 litres of hot water per minute on a cold frosty morning and 4 / 4.5 litres per minute on the the hottest day of the year. Your electric shower can pump out more cold water but you have to slow it down to heat the water. You have to wait for a minute or so to boiler enough water for a cup of tea. If you are not happy with the water pressure then you need to get away from an electric shower & change to a power shower. With a power shower you heat the water first in your hot water water cylinder. Then you can pump it out as powerful as you like. Mine is 23 litres of hot water per minute.
Damoedge wrote: Is there such thing as a 10kw shower?
Sleeper12 wrote: » Mira have a 9.9kw elite qt. You most likely have 6mm cable. For 9.9kw you need 10mm cable right back to the fuseboad. The tails coming into the house might need to be upgraded. Worse case scenario the 9.9kw might cost the guts of 1000 euro supplied & fitted if this extra work is required. After spending all that money you'll find that where you got 3 litres per minute you will get 3.3 litres per minute in the winter & 4.5 to less than 5 litres per minute on the hottest day. You also might end up with a very problematic shower. The bottom line is that an electric shower is a compromise. They are instant & energy efficient as you only heat a small amount of water. The compromise is the lack of pressure
Damoedge wrote: » Just throwing this out there.....how much would it cost to install a power shower....a ball park figure like?m? Do you have to wait for the hot water to heat up from the immersion in the hot water cylinder? Like 20 mins or so?
John.G wrote: » Friend of mine is thinking of installing the above but is having second thoughts due to various posts like Damoedge's re the apparent poor performance of the T90SR, the point that these posters seem to be making is that its output is (again apparently) poor when comparing like for like, ie a older type 9.0 KW shower with the T90SR's 9.0 KW, changing the shower head or even using the old one doesn't seem to improve matters. I know this is very basic but have you personally checked that the T90SR shower actually has a power output of 9.0 KW? by using a energy meter or taking a resistance reading of the heating cans which should be around 11.76 ohms each?. I think that would really put to bed any doubts about its power output.
Sleeper12 wrote: » It's definitely a 9kw element. Most people who feel it's not as powerful as their old shower change their mind if they put on the old shower head. If you are taking a 10 year old shower off the wall its chocked with limescale. The space for water in the heating can will be half what it should be. These showers take longer to heat up as you have to heat the limescale too. Once the water is hot you now have the stored heat in the limescale & stored heat from the outside of the can heating the water as-well as the element. The shower head will be caked with limescale. The holes will be smaller due to limescale & all of this gives the impression of better pressure than the new shower being installed. You get the same effect with all electric showers & all brand of electric showers. Without trying to be rude with people saying that the old shower had better pressure but it's illusion. A 9kw shower puts out 9kw of heat. The only thing that effect the outcome is the temperature of the water in the attic
Sleeper12 wrote: » The Triton T90 is designed for the Irish market so the KW is based on 230v. In the UK you can only get the T90XR. Thats two models ago. The t90sr is exclusive to Ireland for the next few years. Best pumped electric shower on the market.
Damoedge wrote: » I'm afraid I would totally have to disagree with you on the that one! At Christmas I bought a Triton T90sr, a replacement for an old Mira shower that was working perfect with perfect temp with the temp selector knob at 2 o clock ( any higher it would scald you) and the water pressure was very very good at this setting. It was great pressure! Then we install the new T90sr and from the get go it was crap to say the least! Now there was no change to our electrics or plumbing...we even used the old shower head from the Mira...nothing worked for us! How can a like for like brand new shower perform so bad compared to the old one...please note also there is virtually no limescale in our area, we never really had to clean the shower head with a needle! I'm sorry but this is a new model for Triton and the customer market (the likes of me) is only a field test for this model! If you think that thousands of these showers that have been sold already are all working totally perfect well you would want to think again....of course a bad shower will show up somewhere exposing it's design flaws! I Have One! How many people have actually noticed this but are happy to just let it go and not bother saying anything about it?? Hundreds I would say... Im just unlucky I got caught with a bad one but it's going to cost me extra money to sort is out and that's something you don't expect when buying any new product.
Damoedge wrote: Im just unlucky I got caught with a bad one but it's going to cost me extra money to sort is out and that's something you don't expect when buying any new product.
Sleeper12 wrote: » What happened when triton came out to test the your new shower?
John.G wrote: » Dont want to be beating this to death but here is another poster... measured his flowrate at 2.5 LPM in March, https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=106492358 A 9 KW shower will give a temperature rise of almost 52C at this flowrate and even if the supply tank temp was only 5C (more likely to be around 8C), then you end up with a almost scalding temperature of 57C. On the other hand if the shower is only running at "1/2" power, 4.5 KW for whatever reason, either selected or some fault then the temperature rise will be 26C giving a shower temp of a tepid 31C. Assuming a supply temp of 5C and a showering temp of 40C then a 9 Kw shower should give a flowrate of 3.7 LPM.
Damoedge wrote: Again our old shower.....the temp selector knob on our old shower did Not have to be turned all of the way up until it could go no further...it was always set at about 1 o clock and at this setting it was a perfect shower...any higher and it would have scald you! And the pressure was good....please remember there was no change to our plumbing or electric system when the new shower was installed ! It's not Rocket science going on here....It's very simple in my eyes and from the experience I've had with it!....the shower for what ever reason is not performing as it should...Not on the fault of the customers who buy it but the fault of its design I would say....Simple !
Damoedge wrote: » It really does look like I am not the only one here, as I said before how many others are there out there that are just going to accept that there brand new shower is not performing as is should do....I definitely don't think that we are "imagining it" we are a big family and since this shower has been installed every member of the family has been home for a weekend and had a shower in it and every one has said the same thing! "Where the hell did ye get that shower from its useless!" It's actually quite annoying in a way....so it's not just me! Anyone who has used it has said the same thing and my family going back home to use there own showers well I guess they were good testers for my shower....It's no imagination going on here....the shower is under performing and it is as simple as that! 1. The temp selector knob at lowest setting as in cold...the water flows as normal as it should do...Good pressure and the water temp would be as I expect it to be...the water temp in the attic...cold but not freezing cold 2. The temp selector knob all the way turned up to its highest setting all the way! The water pressure is drastically reduced...and I mean it's barely washable in! .... The temp is only warm not hot or not scalding hot just warm! Just over luke warm I would say. Again our old shower.....the temp selector knob on our old shower did Not have to be turned all of the way up until it could go no further...it was always set at about 1 o clock and at this setting it was a perfect shower...any higher and it would have scald you! And the pressure was good....please remember there was no change to our plumbing or electric system when the new shower was installed ! It's not Rocket science going on here....It's very simple in my eyes and from the experience I've had with it!....the shower for what ever reason is not performing as it should...Not on the fault of the customers who buy it but the fault of its design I would say....Simple !
Damoedge wrote: 2. The temp selector knob all the way turned up to its highest setting all the way! The water pressure is drastically reduced...and I mean it's barely washable in! .... The temp is only warm not hot or not scalding hot just warm! Just over luke warm I would say.
Wearb wrote: » I am curious about all this talk of electric shower output, so I measured mine this morning. Triton T90 si Flow rate 3.64 per min Output 43°C Water tank 10°C Current 37A How does those figures stack up John?
Sleeper12 wrote: » Why not get triton out. It's under warranty and triton are really excellent with the warranty. They will fully test the shower and element. We don't have the shower in front of us here so can only give general advice. Triton will test & if there is anything wrong they will replace or repair. Please post back here if they do call out. You can help other posters
Sleeper12 wrote: » T80si. 8.5 9.5 10.5kw is an old mains fed shower. They stopped making it over 10 years ago. Unless you have been looking a UK sites. In the UK they call the Triton T900PI T80si pumpedT900pi. 9kw This is basically a Triton T90 but made in the same footprint as a Mira Elite. It makes it easy for Mira owners to swap to Triton.T90z 9kw Went out of production in 2016 to make way for the Triton T90SR 9KWT90xr 9kw Went out of production in 2011 to make way for the Triton T90Z None of the above will have better pressure than the Triton T90SR Understandably you left the Mira Elite QT off the list. Pumped electric showers are designed for the Irish market because our water pressure is so bad. When I go to the Triton factory in the UK for a training course there's usually around 10 in the class. Not a single one would ever have heard of a Triton T90 or installed any pumped electric shower. Although I'm there to learn I usually end up giving a talk to them about pumped electric showers. The same thing happens on Aqualisa training classes. Aqualisa actually stopped making pumped electric showers altogether Can I ask did Triton actually test your shower? If it's a faulty element they'll replace it for free & you'll end up with the best pumped electric shower on the market. ( I don't work for Triton ) Has anyone tested it? What about the installer, did they test it?
Damoedge wrote: » Thanks for your information sleeper �� Yes a Triton engineer did come out. When he turned on the shower he admitted straight away that there was a problem with the shower. So he took off the cover said the plumbing is fine...he then took off the shower head and and put the temp knob to the lowest the coldest and said the water pressure supply is more than enough...(things I knew myself already) then he went out to get his multimeterand came back and tested supply...he reckons that the voltage supply to the house was not enough...as far as I remember it tested at 216 volts when shower on and up to the last (highest heat setting) so he said that's where the problem was and put everything back on and skipped it...he said to call ESB to get a monitor on your supply and get them to fix it as it was not Tritons problem....he also said ( which I thought was very strange and actually got me thinking about his test! ) not to tell ESB that I had a Triton engineer at the shower....I mean what the f... Like? So...I'm an engineer myself and happen to have my own multimeter...I tested the shower myself at different times of the day as I know you have peak and off peak times with electricity supply! I did this over a few days and every test I did not one reading was below 226 volts...I have the photos to prove it! Not only that...our good friend is an electrician...so one evening he came out and did a few tests not only to the shower but a few places around the house...having immersion cooker kettles...everything turned on...after over a cup of tea and some biscuits he told us that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the supply voltage to the house and all the electrics in the house are fine....and so they should be the house itself is only 20 years old ! I got back to Triton about this with my information and all I got back initially was this "we can only go by our engineer and nothing or no one else" I even sent them photos of tests....I was also asking them when last was that particular multimeter that there engineer used calibrated?? To which I got no answer!....I kept perusing on it and eventually they just said we will give you a refund and that was that. Look a company will hardly ever admit that there is something wrong with there product if they can avoid doing that...so it goes back to the old thing of...."if YOUR not happy with it we will refund you" putting it all back on the customer of course.....�� ðŸ‘
Damoedge wrote: Look a company will hardly ever admit that there is something wrong with there product if they can avoid doing that...so it goes back to the old thing of...."if YOUR not happy with it we will refund you" putting it all back on the customer of course.....😉
Sleeper12 wrote: » If it was an issue with the shower then the only part it could be is the element. I'm baffled as to why he didn't at least try a different element. You'd know once & for all. Your electrician friend was spot on about calibration. Usually in shower repair calibration isn't that important. We want to see around 230 volts. Most of the other tests aren't voltage and can be done with the power off. If it's not the voltage coming into the house then it has to be a faulty element. I wonder is it possible that a 7.5kw element fell into the wrong pile in the factory in the UK. They all look the same. Black body & copper top. No markings to know what kW it is.
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://wb.vanillicon.com/v2/b6984b3dff155c34b5a9498bb42f9c13.svg)
