HKC quantam 70- contacts

zombiekiller

How far apart can the contacts be from each other. Due to my windows shape the contact will be 170mm apart and the magnet is slighty raised from the larger contact.

I have only put my first one up and want to make sure before i do the rest. And in case someone says power up the panel to check. I have power to the panel but no bell box up would i be able to check the contact threw the panel at this stage.

KoolKid

You don't need the bell connected. Just power up the panel & go into engineer & set to show open zones.

zombiekiller

Thanks once again koolkid

zombiekiller

Sorry koolkid getting confused again. I was told by an installer before i started that the system wasnt totally wireless, being wire to panel and bell. The installation manual has a drawing where 6 cores are being used (Quantam 70 control Panel/Sabb connections) But there are more connectors than in my bell. Then in (RF sabb) its says 12V dc is optional. So the connections left are siren and tamper i thought this would have been done wirelessly or do i need to wire.

KoolKid

If you are using the the wireless bell you don't need those panel connections.
You can power it by battery or locally from a 12v power supply.

zombiekiller

So the battery pack in the bell will suffice. No cable needed at all. The manual gives 3 year battery life.

KoolKid

It will. But I wouldn't take the battery life as given.

Evolution1

You'd get the three years out of the standard battery pack once you don't turn on the LEDs .
If you want the LEDs to flash you're better off using a wired bell or using the second battery pack . Just Remember the wireless bell flashes the lights every 5 seconds it lets everyone know what make of system you have in the house.

KoolKid

The number of activations you have will play a big part in the life of the battery in the RF SAB.

zombiekiller

If i want the LEDs to flash i would take a 12V supply from my panel yes.
And when an alarm is triggered does the system reset its self. im sure i can program this but havent fully went through the manual.

KoolKid

You can take the 12v from anywhere more local to the bell. If you are going to get a cable to the panel for that you would be better off using a wired SAB.

zombiekiller

what like a transformer from a socket

KoolKid

Yes, exactly.

altor

zombiekiller wrote: »

what like a transformer from a socket

A power supply with a back up battery would be the better option.
If the mains is off then so would be the transformer.

zombiekiller

Thanks koolkid. The alarm im doing is in my house so thats why iv been takin so long theres no rush.
I put a contact on the front door but when i try to leave the house and set the alarm the panel wont arm cause the contact is open. How do i program this to be different.

So I then took that contact off the system and programed an exit timer for 30 Sec so i could leave but then a PIR in the hall on the way out the door triggered the alarm.

zombiekiller

altor wrote: »

A power supply with a back up battery would be the better option.
If the mains is off then so would be the transformer.

Would the battery in the bell which is said to last a year or two not do. I only wanted the mains supply so the strobe wouldnt affect the battery life too much.

KoolKid

The front door contact zone must be programmed as entry exit.
If you have a PiR in the hall that should be programmed as alarm with the Access attribute.
Also add the part guard attributes you require to have it off in either or both part sets.

altor

zombiekiller wrote: »

Thanks koolkid. The alarm im doing is in my house so thats why iv been takin so long theres no rush.
I put a contact on the front door but when i try to leave the house and set the alarm the panel wont arm cause the contact is open. How do i program this to be different.

So I then took that contact off the system and programed an exit timer for 30 Sec so i could leave but then a PIR in the hall on the way out the door triggered the alarm.

The zone needs to be set as entry/exit for the front Door.
If you think the contact is not closing from the distance you have it away you can be stronger magnets. Another option is to install a wired contact into the terminals on the sensor and turn off the reed option in RF options.
The PIR in the hall needs to be set up for access in the zone options, also if you need the PIR off in partset it is set up in the options menu.

zombiekiller

The batterys in the bell need to be changed as the strobes have been on. So im goin to put in a mains supply.

What size current rated tranformer would i need. I seen a different model alarm bell rated at max 700ma. So would a 1A transformer be ok for my Quantam70.

KoolKid

Easily manage it, yes.

fred funk }{

zombiekiller wrote: »

The batterys in the bell need to be changed as the strobes have been on. So im goin to put in a mains supply.

What size current rated tranformer would i need. I seen a different model alarm bell rated at max 700ma. So would a 1A transformer be ok for my Quantam70.

You'll need to get a new rechargeable battery too because if the power is turned off it will generate a fault on the system.

zombiekiller

Im not sure if there rechargable but i will be replacing the used hkc batteries in the bell aswel.

fred funk }{

zombiekiller wrote: »

Im not sure if there rechargable but i will be replacing the used hkc batteries in the bell aswel.

Dont replace them like for like. If you're connecting a permenent feed you must replace the existing pack with a different battery type altogether. The existing packs aren't rechargeable. The rechargeable battery is a small green cell and plugs in where your existing pack is connected.

Evolution1

If you can get a line out to the bell why dont you just use a wired bell? They cost near enough the same as a good psu with battery backup

KoolKid

I'd agree entirely.Its only in very exceptional circumstances where we would go for a wireless bell.

altor

zombiekiller wrote: »

Im not sure if there rechargable but i will be replacing the used hkc batteries in the bell aswel.

They are not rechargeable batteries in the battery packs.
If you are using the LEDs on, a second pack can be installed to give up to 32 months supply to them.

zombiekiller

I went for the wireless bell as to not have to mess with the finished house. But maybe that was a bit lazy and im paying for it now.

So cost/trouble wise what am i best off doing transformer and new rechargable battery pack for existing bell thats up already. There is a socket behind the bell and hole from previous wired bell.

If i wired it to the panel would the wireless bell run of the panel battery. Or do you need a different bell for this.

altor

zombiekiller wrote: »

I went for the wireless bell as to not have to mess with the finished house. But maybe that was a bit lazy and im paying for it now.

So cost/trouble wise what am i best off doing transformer and new rechargable battery pack for existing bell thats up already. There is a socket behind the bell and hole from previous wired bell.

If i wired it to the panel would the wireless bell run of the panel battery. Or do you need a different bell for this.

You have a couple of options using your existing bell. Either run a cable from the control panel and put in the rechargeable battery in the bell you have. Put in a 1 Amp PSU with battery back up in the unit itself and power the bell from there.

From what you are saying re the socket I would go with the PSU.

zombiekiller

Can I get a psu with battery back from electrical wholesalers or would I have to go to maplins and about how much compared to the hkc rechargable battery.

Thanks for the help

altor

zombiekiller wrote: »

Can I get a psu with battery back from electrical wholesalers or would I have to go to maplins and about how much compared to the hkc rechargable battery.

Thanks for the help

Price wise you would need to contact a local supplier but yes a electrical wholesaler should have one in stock.
I have one of the wirefree external bells in well over 3 years with second battery pack for LEDs still going with no battery change.
Here is a link to the suppliers list.

zombiekiller

I got the PSU and a 3Ah battery but then i thought this mite be a bit small so i read the PSU paperwork and it said this unit is compatible with 7Ah and 8Ah batterys. Am i rite to change it.

And last question do i change the wasted batteries in the wireless bell or do i just plug out the battery unit all together as this will come up as a fault.

altor

zombiekiller wrote: »

I got the PSU and a 3Ah battery but then i thought this mite be a bit small so i read the PSU paperwork and it said this unit is compatible with 7Ah and 8Ah batterys. Am i rite to change it.

And last question do i change the wasted batteries in the wireless bell or do i just plug out the battery unit all together as this will come up as a fault.

That battery will be grand if the only device being powered when the mains is off is the external bell.

Just take the battery back away altogether. It is not going to be using this as a power supply anymore.

zombiekiller

Since hooking up the power supply the LEDs are on all the time can this be changed in the settings havent got the chance to try yet.