Labour Saving and General Guntering

patsy_mccabe

Reggie. wrote: »

I'd say pure ignorance helped too

'Strength and ignorance' as my father used to say. Seriously though, that back and forth with plenty wd40 is the job. You work the stuff between the threads.

Sacrolyte

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Dead chuffed with myself. Managed to open a large nut on the back of the tractor that hasn't been opened since 1977. Soaked with wd40 yesterday. Kettle of water today and once it moved a bit, I tightened it a little in the opposite direction. Back and forth then with plenty wd40 and off it came. Used heavy duty socket and long pipe.
I was sure I'd have to cut it off.

The euphoria that is felt when a stubborn nut starts to move would be hard to replicate by any drug.

chooseusername

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

'Strength and ignorance' as my father used to say. Seriously though, that back and forth with plenty wd40 is the job. You work the stuff between the threads.

Or a club hammer and an inch cold chisel .

funkey_monkey

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

'Strength and ignorance' as my father used to say. Seriously though, that back and forth with plenty wd40 is the job. You work the stuff between the threads.

Back and forth also stops the rust gathering and locking the nut on the threads. Cleaning thread with a wire brush and soaking in WD-40 goes a long way to getting things loosened.

Xtrail14

Co-op sells DT5 use it there on vintage cars it’s streets ahead of wd40.

K.G.

Bought myself a set of 3/4 sockets a few weeks back.so handy now for punctures and squeezing grab tines whereas i used always be running for braces to local tire shop.should bought them long ago

Donald Trump

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

'Strength and ignorance' as my father used to say. Seriously though, that back and forth with plenty wd40 is the job. You work the stuff between the threads.

Heat, solid socket and long bar.

patsy_mccabe

Donald Trump wrote: »

Heat, solid socket and long bar.

Ya, I have a 3/4 drive and impact sockets. The only problem with them is too much torque. I've sheared a few bolts with them. Heat and lubrication are a must.

_Brian

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Ya, I have a 3/4 drive and impact sockets. The only problem with them is too much torque. I've sheared a few bolts with them. Heat and lubrication are a must.

A bigger hammer isn’t always the solution, patience, heat and lubrication.

cjpm

I never knew you were a sex therapist Brian....!!

_Brian wrote: »

A bigger hammer isn’t always the solution, patience, heat and plenty of lubrication.

_Brian

cjpm wrote: »

I never knew you were a sex therapist Brian....!!

In these hard times a fella has to use all his talents 😉

josephsoap

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patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Ya, I have a 3/4 drive and impact sockets. The only problem with them is too much torque. I've sheared a few bolts with them. Heat and lubrication are a must.

Don’t have a 3/8 set myself, do you really get extra power/torque with the 3/8 sockets?

Nekarsulm

josephsoap wrote: »

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Don’t have a 3/4 set myself, do you really get extra power/torque with the 3/4 sockets?

Well, you can use a longer bar on them before the T handle bends, or the socket rounds off the bolt corners...
6 foot pipe and 90kg farmer is a lot of pressure!

zetecescort

Six sided sockets better too imo. Less chance of rounding the head

patsy_mccabe

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Well, you can use a longer bar on them before the T handle bends, or the socket rounds off the bolt corners...
6 foot pipe and 90kg farmer is a lot of pressure!

Speak for yourself.

Nekarsulm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Speak for yourself.

Nearer the 100, I'm afraid

cjpm

I was worried about breaking my 3/4 drive when using a pipe for more power.





I have a 1" set for the air gun, so I bought a 1" drive breaker bar for those stubborn ones!! The handle is over a metre long, plenty of power.

MickeyShtyles

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Nearer the 100, I'm afraid

I’d be half that on a good day

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Nearer the 100, I'm afraid

Still a lightweight

Reggie.

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

I’d be half that on a good day

You have to watch the wind sure

emaherx

MickeyShtyles wrote: »

I’d be half that on a good day

You're going to need a longer bar so

Reggie.

emaherx wrote: »

You're going to need a longer bar so

He would still be dangling.......only further out

blue5000

emaherx wrote: »

You're going to need a longer bar so

Or a https://www.milwaukeetool.eu/systems/m18/

Nekarsulm

Reggie. wrote: »

Still a lightweight

Gonna work on that over Christmas

Notoldorwise

Dozer1 wrote: »

Forcefield mx6s fence looks like a few components shorted out. Do any of you lads know do they do resonable repairs or do I need to dust off the soldering iron

They are based in Cratloe in Co. Clare. I got an MX9 repaired by them a couple of months ago. Card in it was damaged by lightening. €50 to repair iirc. Interestingly they also do repairs to other makes of fencers.

Nobbies

Broke the wooden handle in a silage grape today. Their tricky to get the old butt out from the steel. Any easy ways lads??

timple23

Nobbies wrote: »

Broke the wooden handle in a silage grape today. Their tricky to get the old butt out from the steel. Any easy ways lads??

Take bolt out of there is one. Drill out as much of old butt. Tap out with with punch.

Aravo

Nobbies wrote: »

Broke the wooden handle in a silage grape today. Their tricky to get the old butt out from the steel. Any easy ways lads??

Angle grind off or hacksaw off the metal pin. Then this should allow the broken bit to come out. A bar/punch and hammer is the only job.

Tileman

Aravo wrote: »

Angle grind off or hacksaw off the metal pin. Then this should allow the broken bit to come out. A bar/punch and hammer is the only job.

We use to put in the open fire and key it burn out

MickeyShtyles

Nobbies wrote: »

Broke the wooden handle in a silage grape today. Their tricky to get the old butt out from the steel. Any easy ways lads??

Into the stove.