patsy_mccabe wrote: » 'Strength and ignorance' as my father used to say. Seriously though, that back and forth with plenty wd40 is the job. You work the stuff between the threads.
Donald Trump wrote: » Heat, solid socket and long bar.
patsy_mccabe wrote: » Ya, I have a 3/4 drive and impact sockets. The only problem with them is too much torque. I've sheared a few bolts with them. Heat and lubrication are a must.
_Brian wrote: » A bigger hammer isn’t always the solution, patience, heat and plenty of lubrication.
cjpm wrote: » I never knew you were a sex therapist Brian....!!
josephsoap wrote: » [HTML][/HTML] Don’t have a 3/4 set myself, do you really get extra power/torque with the 3/4 sockets?
Nekarsulm wrote: » Well, you can use a longer bar on them before the T handle bends, or the socket rounds off the bolt corners... 6 foot pipe and 90kg farmer is a lot of pressure!
patsy_mccabe wrote: » Speak for yourself.
Nekarsulm wrote: » Nearer the 100, I'm afraid
MickeyShtyles wrote: » I’d be half that on a good day
emaherx wrote: » You're going to need a longer bar so
Reggie. wrote: » Still a lightweight
Dozer1 wrote: » Forcefield mx6s fence looks like a few components shorted out. Do any of you lads know do they do resonable repairs or do I need to dust off the soldering iron
Nobbies wrote: » Broke the wooden handle in a silage grape today. Their tricky to get the old butt out from the steel. Any easy ways lads??
Aravo wrote: » Angle grind off or hacksaw off the metal pin. Then this should allow the broken bit to come out. A bar/punch and hammer is the only job.
MickeyShtyles wrote: » Into the stove.