Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Relikk · 03-08-2016 10:45am

You can borrow mine if you like, as long as you're willing to come out and collect it and drop it back to me when you're finished.

Myrddin · 03-08-2016 10:57am

Relikk wrote: »

You can borrow mine if you like, as long as you're willing to come out and collect it and drop it back to me when you're finished.

I've just ordered a replacement cpu, & two system ram modules...so if they don't fix it, I'll get in touch & arrange to borrow it for a few hours or so. Thanks for the offer dude

Steve X2 · 19-08-2016 8:22am

So I got a new Jamma PSU along with some other bits from ArcadeWorld UK. It’s switchable so covers UK, US and Jap machines.
Can I just install this in the Egret 3 and wire it up, or is there something else that needs to be done?
Is there another step or something I need to look out for when converting Jap arcade PSU to UK?

Product Features:
• Industry Standard
• AC input 88-132VAC or 176-264VAC (Switchable)
• +5V, 3~15 Amp, +12V 4 Amp, -5V 1 Amp.
• CE, TUV and UL approved
• High efficiency
• Easy start up
• Green "Power On" LED
• Overload protected
• Built in EMI filter
• Maximum noise minimization by built in high speed diode.

black-power-supply__25913.1343724671.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

geotrig · 19-08-2016 9:30am

check where your monitor is be fed power from . most are isolated but have input requirements of 110*v (im looking at that no and it doesnt look right )

lol

19-08-2016 9:31am

As geo said,

Steve X2 · 19-08-2016 10:05am

geotrig wrote: »

check where your monitor is be fed power from . most are isolated but have input requirements of 110*v (im looking at that no and it doesnt look right ) lol

What do you mean? Something on the PSU?

TechnoFreek · 19-08-2016 10:18am

Yeah, the monitor in my atomiswave is 110v only. You replaced yours though, no? So maybe it's different. Defo do your research as it could be a costly mistake to supply it with 220v.

And obviously if you have the stock psu, you'll be hacking the connectors off the end of the relevant cables to allow connection to your generic psu. FrancoB used to make and sell adaptors so you could keep everything stock. He's out of that game now of course.

Steve X2 · 19-08-2016 10:31am

TechnoFreek wrote: »

Yeah, the monitor in my atomiswave is 110v only. You replaced yours though, no? So maybe it's different. Defo do your research as it could be a costly mistake to supply it with 220v.

And obviously if you have the stock psu, you'll be hacking the connectors off the end of the relevant cables to allow connection to your generic psu. FrancoB used to make and sell adaptors so you could keep everything stock. He's out of that game now of course.

Yeah I'll make sure I've got a clear view of what needs to be done before doing anything. I might just leave the PSU in there and use this one for my Point Blank as that needs one as well.

I replaced the monitor 3 times in the Egret 3

But its original parts so will be the same as what was in there.

TechnoFreek · 19-08-2016 10:34am

Defo 110v so.

geotrig · 19-08-2016 10:54am

Steve X2 wrote: »

What do you mean? Something on the PSU?

haha no, just me being half asleep and when looking at the 110 i typed ,it just looked wrong.

L1m1tless · 20-08-2016 10:00pm

Hi all, Where's good to buy T Molding from thats fairly reasonable priced.

eddhorse · 21-08-2016 4:37pm

L1m1tless wrote: »

Hi all, Where's good to buy T Molding from thats fairly reasonable priced.

https://www.t-molding.com
Shipping can be a bit costly.

Otherwise :
http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/T-Molding/

Maragenie · 23-08-2016 4:49pm

Well dudes I have an Atomiswave Sammy Candy Cab machine, everything was fine and dandy until we transported it to another location, now the monitor seems to randomly wrap/shift over to the left hand side of the screen, a lil bang on the side of the case seemed to help straighten it up but that trick has now passed.

I have read it could be a dry/crack solder joint. My next question is how do I get this sorted and if any of you know someone that can help?

A sin having this thing parked up, a sin.

Thanks

o1s1n · 23-08-2016 4:51pm

There's a guy over on arcade otaku called Grantspain. He's based in the UK and you can send a chassis off to him to have it repaired for really decent prices.

Maragenie · 23-08-2016 4:59pm

Excellent I will follow that lead up.

o1s1n · 23-08-2016 5:07pm

He's sorted loads of chassis for folks around these parts. I had a completely borked one that he not only brought back to life, but gave it a complete once over and the picture looks stunning.

eddhorse · 23-08-2016 7:47pm

Yep sorted two monitors for me.
Very nice guy, extremely helpful to everyone on every website.

Goes by Gunblade on the forums Jammaplus / Arcade Otaku / Ukvac

Andrew76 · 23-08-2016 8:40pm

Before sending the chassis anywhere check that all the wires are properly connected, maybe one came loose during transport (which is what happened when I got mine).

eddhorse · 23-08-2016 9:19pm

Andrew76 wrote: »

Before sending the chassis anywhere check that all the wires are properly connected, maybe one came loose during transport (which is what happened when I got mine).

Good point, some pictures so we might spot something would be good.

23-08-2016 11:05pm

Yea.check the remote board

eddhorse · 24-08-2016 8:15pm

Can someone recommend a soldering iron and kit etc, wanna get a good one but lots of options, desoldering would be helpful too.

24-08-2016 9:04pm

eddhorse wrote: »

Can someone recommend a soldering iron and kit etc, wanna get a good one but lots of options, desoldering would be helpful too.

price range?

The Last Bandit · 24-08-2016 9:06pm

Antex XS25 is good for the majority of jobs you'll be tackling, try and get one with a silicone lead if possible.

24-08-2016 9:08pm

when it comes to desoldering the main thing is practice,then more practice !
especially if your doing ICs
Desoldering stations are not magic at all.They can make life a bit easier in some cases but wont make you a pro overnight.
Flux,flux and more flux.
get the solder wick with flux and add more flux to it with a paint brush,
then add more flux to the pad!
you'll need IPA to clean up your work too

-edit
did i say flux?

CiDeRmAn · 24-08-2016 11:39pm

India Pale Ale?
Isn't that the stuff Sparks drinks?

eddhorse · 25-08-2016 12:29am

BrownFinger wrote: »

when it comes to desoldering the main thing is practice,then more practice !
especially if your doing ICs
Desoldering stations are not magic at all.They can make life a bit easier in some cases but wont make you a pro overnight.
Flux,flux and more flux.
get the solder wick with flux and add more flux to it with a paint brush,
then add more flux to the pad!
you'll need IPA to clean up your work too

-edit
did i say flux?

So from your post im guessing theres flux involved.

Also Last Bandit Antex XS25, i have one of those, maybe more tips needed.
Was willing to spend 50-100 but i see some really cheap stuff and some really expensive stuff.

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 3:37am

I have got onto Grant and we are going about trying to sort out the problem, if I was to send him the chassis for repair what kind of Bill in total would I be facing?

He is indeed a sound fella.

BTW I just found this crowd...

http://limerickcomputers.ie/store/home/archade-machine-repair/

Could be epic!

eddhorse · 25-08-2016 7:50am

Maragenie wrote: »

I have got onto Grant and we are going about trying to sort out the problem, if I was to send him the chassis for repair what kind of Bill in total would I be facing?

He is indeed a sound fella.

BTW I just found this crowd...

http://limerickcomputers.ie/store/home/archade-machine-repair/

Could be epic!

Could be €50-€100

Doge · 25-08-2016 8:24am

eddhorse wrote: »

Can someone recommend a soldering iron and kit etc, wanna get a good one but lots of options, desoldering would be helpful too.

As for soldering the Hakko FX-888 is the pedigree of soldering stations.

You can order it from Dancap, the only UK distributor of Hakko products.

http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx888D.html

Must be done by email though a their website is like something from 1995.

Its £89.

I have to say though I find the chinese clones of the old Hakko 936 very pwoerful, im planning on buying genuine hakko tips now though to use with mine.

You can slso get the 936 clone style soldering stations with a desoldering iron attached also.

Doge · 25-08-2016 8:37am

As for desoldering stations these are the ones myself and The Last Bandit Used, only difference is the brand name they're both OEM.

http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384

http://ie.farnell.com/proskit-industries/ss-331bc-f/desoldering-station-60w-240v-eu/dp/2320603

They're great but take up a fair bit of room on the desk.

The Last Bandit · 25-08-2016 8:40am

Yep they are big and noisy but work very well, until you break the glass on the gun and have to order a new one

For SMD work though I use a hot air station but recently tried out Chipquik repairing a MVS and was very impressed with it - expensive stuff though..

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 9:44am

eddhorse wrote: »

Could be €50-€100

Shur Jaysus I'd have no problem with that. Anyone know if it's a dodgy job whipping out the chassis?

25-08-2016 9:50am

Maragenie wrote: »

Shur Jaysus I'd have no problem with that. Anyone know if it's a dodgy job whipping out the chassis?

Loads of guides online.
Its very straight forward.
people make a big deal out of it but its not .
as long as you follow the guide

edit-
I think i paid him 70e last time.use parcel motel !

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 9:56am

Will I have to discharge the monitor? I haven't turned it on in days.

Myrddin · 25-08-2016 9:57am

Maragenie wrote: »

Will I have to discharge the monitor? I haven't turned it on in days.

Do it regardless, just so you know it's done.

eddhorse · 25-08-2016 10:19am

Definitely discharge the monitor just in case, its a big capacitor holding a very big charge.
People have been thrown across rooms from it and I think it was Grant himself that got a broken arm from the charge jolting his arm off the monitor neck. Not to scare you or anything.

eddhorse · 25-08-2016 10:21am

Doge wrote: »

As for desoldering stations these are the ones myself and The Last Bandit Used, only difference is the brand name they're both OEM.

http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384

http://ie.farnell.com/proskit-industries/ss-331bc-f/desoldering-station-60w-240v-eu/dp/2320603

They're great but take up a fair bit of room on the desk.

Thanks for the tips, will defo check them out.

TechnoFreek · 25-08-2016 10:30am

Maragenie wrote: »

I have got onto Grant and we are going about trying to sort out the problem, if I was to send him the chassis for repair what kind of Bill in total would I be facing?

I only recently had the exact same chassis repaired by him. I sent the chaos over via parcel morel. 15 Euro.
His repair, parts and postage back cost 75 sterling.

So you're looking at about €115 assuming you need some standard parts.

Those chassis have auto discharge circuitry. I just lash the chassis out but at the same time I'm not grabbing on to capacitors for the fun of it. I generally disconnect the anode cap first and touch the metal clips off the inside of the cab just to be safe.

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 11:19am

TechnoFreek wrote: »

I only recently had the exact same chassis repaired by him. I sent the chaos over via parcel morel. 15 Euro.
His repair, parts and postage back cost 75 sterling.

So you're looking at about €115 assuming you need some standard parts.

Those chassis have auto discharge circuitry. I just lash the chassis out but at the same time I'm not grabbing on to capacitors for the fun of it. I generally disconnect the anode cap first and touch the metal clips off the inside of the cab just to be safe.

Oh man I will be bricking it, but aside from the discharge is it just like pulling a motherboard out of a PC?

One more thing, lets say from the day you posted it to him, how long before you got it back?

TechnoFreek · 25-08-2016 11:43am

Yeah. Once the anode cap unsorted just a case of unplugging a few cables and unscrewing the chassis from the cab.

Feel free to message me if you need help.

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 12:39pm

TechnoFreek wrote: »

Yeah. Once the anode cap unsorted just a case of unplugging a few cables and unscrewing the chassis from the cab.

Feel free to message me if you need help.

Nice advice pal, any idea how long these things can hold a charge in general?

TechnoFreek · 25-08-2016 12:48pm

As far as I know the auto discharge circuitry on those chassis means they are discharged almost immediately after mains power is turned off.

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 12:53pm

I'll ask Grant on the other forum to just to make sure, otherwise I'll get someone else to whip it out.

TechnoFreek · 25-08-2016 1:04pm

Maragenie wrote: »

I'll ask Grant on the other forum to just to make sure, otherwise I'll get someone else to whip it out.

It's dead simple and only takes a couple of minutes, once you get over the fear!

25-08-2016 1:30pm

Maragenie wrote: »

I'll ask Grant on the other forum to just to make sure, otherwise I'll get someone else to whip it out.

as i said above its not a big deal

o1s1n · 25-08-2016 3:33pm

Main thing I found is just documenting where all the bloody cables connect back up to - a few had me scratching my head the last time

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 3:40pm

Yeah I'll take good notes on that, am I basically just unplugging everything that is connected to the motherboard? And when I say "motherboard" is that what people are referring to as the chassis?

Will I need to send anything else to Grant other than that part?

25-08-2016 3:42pm

nope, (send nothing else)
So whered you get the cab?
I was thinking it was the one from adverts but it doesnt look like it?

Maragenie · 25-08-2016 3:44pm

It is the one from adverts mate, I was just about to give up on it until it sank in exactly what I was letting go, then I cried and withdrew the Ad immediately.

That lil Candy Cab came in on a container from Japan. Takes legit YEN coins.

geotrig · 25-08-2016 4:26pm

Maragenie wrote: »

It is the one from adverts mate, I was just about to give up on it until it sank in exactly what I was letting go, then I cried and withdrew the Ad immediately.

That lil Candy Cab came in on a container from Japan. Takes legit YEN coins.

if i am right it came in on the ic09 order of cabs .... back then i remember the guy that delivered mine had just dropped of a awsd before making it out to me ...i could be wrong though lol

Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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