STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

BarryD · 05-11-2015 4:13pm

flutered wrote: »

i got a stove which i intend to put it into a large old open cottage fireplace, the fireplace will be mankey, as it has been blocked up for years, it has concrete walls, can somebody offer an idea as to the best way of cheaply dressing the walls, they are not even so painting is out, it is i think 6ft at the front 6ft deep, at the back it is roughly 3ft wide, as it is not as yet reopened i am unsure of the exact measurements

Concrete or stone? If stone, clean it up and repoint, leave bare. If concrete, get yourself some sand & cement and do a bit of creative plastering

loki7777 · 05-11-2015 8:53pm

Hi
I am in the middle of installing stove Porto 400 and it looks like guys who are doing that didn't understand me when i said that i would like to put something like that http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Guangzhou-Foahan-2013-anti-weathering-decorative_1414481409.html around the whole stove - without it going behind stove. Now it looks like as it is,so i can't do anything at all and they said that first builder will have to finish the wall as no one knows how big is the gap behind back panel(?).
What would be the cheapest way to achieve what i want- hiring builder or using Fireplace Building Boards on whole wall - cuting hole, insterting stove into it and then tiling?
That's the finial effect i wanted to achieve http://qwikspot.com/e/stone-fireplace-11024974/

flutered · 08-11-2015 7:38pm

folks could ordinary or concrete tiles be used to decorate an old open fireplace, before i install a multi fuel stove, ot would i need to use stone faced or brick faced cladding, what type of tiles are these, that they are capable of resisting enormous heat

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/162096/367691.jpg

Robbie.G · 08-11-2015 7:56pm

flutered wrote: »

folks could ordinary or concrete tiles be used to decorate an old open fireplace, before i install a multi fuel stove, ot would i need to use stone faced or brick faced cladding, what type of tiles are these, that they are capable of resisting enormous heat

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/162096/367691.jpg

They're no tiles thats a granite fireplace
You can use whatever you like once it's non combustible concrete tiles or so will do rightly

jm08 · 08-11-2015 8:14pm

flutered wrote: »

folks could ordinary or concrete tiles be used to decorate an old open fireplace, before i install a multi fuel stove, ot would i need to use stone faced or brick faced cladding, what type of tiles are these, that they are capable of resisting enormous heat

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/162096/367691.jpg

You can use Porcelain tiles - they are able to withstand the heat. There is
Heat Resistant Tile Adhesive that you will need to use.

funnyclub · 08-11-2015 8:22pm

Guys if you have gas heating and you want to fit a boiler stove do you need to have a heat exchanger fitted?

BarneyMc · 08-11-2015 8:24pm

Can anyone recommend a decent Room Sealed Wood Burning Stove with External Air Supply, preferably traditional looking? Or a decent store that deals in these? Thanks!

rpmcs · 08-11-2015 10:20pm

Barney mc ...no such thing as a wood fuel / solid fuel stove that are room sealed.
Only stove that would fit that would be a gas balanced flue stove or pellet stove with external air feed.
When building regs state roomsealed ..They mean stove that is not opened during use..so if you plan on refueling stove it's not room sealed ...so wood fuel or solid fuel stove don't go under room sealed.
But you can get both with external air, but by building regs both would need a permanent air vent in room for when you have door open for fueling.
Most turn blind eye to this but it is clear in building regs.

Dtp1979 · 08-11-2015 10:22pm

funnyclub wrote: »

Guys if you have gas heating and you want to fit a boiler stove do you need to have a heat exchanger fitted?

Depending on the gas boiler you have

cargen · 09-11-2015 7:47am

I am looking for a multi fuel insert stove of about 8/10 kw.
What would you recommend ?

My budget for the stove would be around 1000/1400 euro.

Thanks

BarneyMc · 09-11-2015 9:19am

rpmcs wrote: »

Barney mc ...no such thing as a wood fuel / solid fuel stove that are room sealed.
Only stove that would fit that would be a gas balanced flue stove or pellet stove with external air feed.
When building regs state roomsealed ..They mean stove that is not opened during use..so if you plan on refueling stove it's not room sealed ...so wood fuel or solid fuel stove don't go under room sealed.
But you can get both with external air, but by building regs both would need a permanent air vent in room for when you have door open for fueling.
Most turn blind eye to this but it is clear in building regs.

Hi rpmcs, sorry terminology might be a bit off. I want one with an external air feed so it's not drawing air from the room. Yes, it's ok it draws air when the door is open during refuelling. I have Mechanical Heat Recovery Ventilation so would that not cover the constant air vent?

Anyway any help to locate such a stove would be great.

Walter Becket · 09-11-2015 9:37am

BarneyMc wrote: »

Hi rpmcs, sorry terminology might be a bit off. I want one with an external air feed so it's not drawing air from the room. Yes, it's ok it draws air when the door is open during refuelling. I have Mechanical Heat Recovery Ventilation so would that not cover the constant air vent?

Anyway any help to locate such a stove would be great.

They do exist os dont give up looking but you may have to import it yourself.

Sanchez83 · 09-11-2015 9:29pm

Barneymc,

Lots of external air options out there now.
PM me if you want info on specific brands.

Sanchez83 · 09-11-2015 9:32pm

Hi Cargen,

Once you go past 7kw you are looking at a cassette stove.
Your budget seems a bit tight for a decent cassette brand.
You may sneak e1400 for a Henley Faro 500 or Heat Design Vitae 600 if you find the right retailer to haggle with.

funnyclub · 09-11-2015 9:36pm

Dtp1979 wrote: »

Depending on the gas boiler you have

It's a baxi condenser boiler.

Dtp1979 · 09-11-2015 11:01pm

funnyclub wrote: »

It's a baxi condenser boiler.

More than likely you'll need something like heat genie

funnyclub · 09-11-2015 11:22pm

Dtp1979 wrote: »

More than likely you'll need something like heat genie

It's running under 1bar. I've had 2 quotes and one guy said I'd need a heat exchanger the other 2 said I wouldn't.

cargen · 10-11-2015 12:03am

Sanchez83 wrote:

Once you go past 7kw you are looking at a cassette stove. Your budget seems a bit tight for a decent cassette brand. You may sneak e1400 for a Henley Faro 500 or Heat Design Vitae 600 if you find the right retailer to haggle with.

Thanks Sanchez83. Are the two cassette stoves above decent or it is better i wait and increase my budget ?

10-11-2015 12:06am

funnyclub wrote: »

It's running under 1bar. I've had 2 quotes and one guy said I'd need a heat exchanger the other 2 said I wouldn't.

Be very very carefully when connecting a back boiler to a gas heating system, it's very fashionable at the moment but most I've seen have been fitted very badly, it can effect the warranty on the boiler also due to the lack of skill by some installers it can be very dangerious.

A job I went to today had a stove/back boiler recently fitted, there was no ventilation for the large stove, no carbon monoxide detector fitted, the gas heating pipes for the cylinder were removed and replaced with pipes from the stove, the cylinder was replaced with a 300ltr unvented cylinder which had then been repositioned in the attic on a small bit of chipboard with a breaktank and 3 bar pump adding to the extra weight, the safety pipework for the cylinder was plastic and terminated outside aiming at the children's play area next door, the interlock on the motorised valves were disconnected so the boiler fired all the time which has damaged the boilers pump and last but not least the home owner has to use their immersion for hot water because if they use the stove it will get to hot leading to very loud clattering and bagging coming from the attic which is concerning them.

So long story short be very careful, if done right with a heat genie or system link it will work fine if not you could have a job like the one I described above where a little bit of water on the chipboard could send a 300 ltr cylinder of very hot water toppling in on the kids in the bedroom below.

NattyRasher · 10-11-2015 1:37pm

Hi All,
My word this is a huge thread. I've been reading for a few hours and am looking for guidance on a few things - I'm very sorry if I'm asking stuff that has been previously answered but I started reading at Jan 2015.

We have a large dormer bungalow that currently uses oil heating. The livingroom, and kitchen are open plan with a view to put a stove in the livingroom. There are two bedrooms downstairs and three upstairs.

* We have gotten quotes for installation of a boiler and room heating stove. Of the two quotes the cheaper is €1740 for installation of room heating stove and €3600 for boiler stove installation to dual run with oil heating. €3600 included new cylinder, pipe work, flue/chimney system. Is this a good price?

* If I have the money to do either am I really better to do the whole boiler stove install (with the €2000 cost of a stove it's a huge investment) or is it better to use a stand alone stove to heat the open plan area and continue to rely on the oil for the bedrooms?

* If I use the boiler stove system we have been told that we need a 30Kw stove. It seems from this thread the Inis Meain Mark 2 and Stratford EB25 are the most recommended. I would ideally prefer a more contemporary style, my parents have a Nordica and it's beautiful and performs really well although I've seen no one recommend them here. Anyone have any suggestions?

* Am I better to get the heating system zoned or just turn off the rads that are no longer required with use of the stove. If the boiler option is what I go with should I invest in the zoning too - see below?

* What way does the system work? Does it heat water/rads first and then the rads? Am I best to turn off rads (either manually or if zoned) to get some heat into the main living area first and then turn on the rads section? I'm just concious of coming home from work and having to wait an hour for the rads to heat throughout the house before the living room and kitchen heat up.

Sorry for all the questions!

Vote 4 Pedro · 10-11-2015 7:36pm

Hi All,
I got my Dru 55mf fitted on Saturday and I'm very happy with it so far,
It's very easy to get a decent fire going and I think it looks very nice.

Does anyone here use the eco briquettes/ Hardwood briquettes or similar type things,
I'm looking for something that burns very cleanly and has minimal ash.
are they any good ?
there are so many different types I don't know which to get, is there any to avoid, any recommendation would be helpful.

Thanks..

reubenreuben · 10-11-2015 7:44pm

Vote 4 Pedro wrote: »

Hi All,
I got my Dru 55mf fitted on Saturday and I'm very happy with it so far,
It's very easy to get a decent fire going and I think it looks very nice.

Does anyone here use the eco briquettes/ Hardwood briquettes or similar type things,
I'm looking for something that burns very cleanly and has minimal ash.
are they any good ?
there are so many different types I don't know which to get, is there any to avoid, any recommendation would be helpful.

Thanks..

The smokeless ovoids work best in my stove, quite slow to get going but they last for hours.

Vote 4 Pedro · 10-11-2015 8:18pm

reubenreuben wrote: »

The smokeless ovoids work best in my stove, quite slow to get going but they last for hours.

Thanks for the advice, Can you tell me are they very dusty / dirty to handle,
I hadn't though of using then don't no why,
but I might give them a try.

reubenreuben · 10-11-2015 9:24pm

Vote 4 Pedro wrote: »

Thanks for the advice, Can you tell me are they very dusty / dirty to handle,
I hadn't though of using then don't no why,
but I might give them a try.

They are large egg shaped, not that dusty and burn right down to dust. They do take a while to get heat from from but once they are glowing, you will get many hours from them. I generally get the stove going with some coal at first and then put some ovoids on afterwards.

BarryD · 10-11-2015 10:00pm

NattyRasher wrote: »

Hi All,
My word this is a huge thread. I've been reading for a few hours and am looking for guidance on a few things - I'm very sorry if I'm asking stuff that has been previously answered but I started reading at Jan 2015.

We have a large dormer bungalow that currently uses oil heating. The livingroom, and kitchen are open plan with a view to put a stove in the livingroom. There are two bedrooms downstairs and three upstairs.

* We have gotten quotes for installation of a boiler and room heating stove. Of the two quotes the cheaper is €1740 for installation of room heating stove and €3600 for boiler stove installation to dual run with oil heating. €3600 included new cylinder, pipe work, flue/chimney system. Is this a good price?

* If I have the money to do either am I really better to do the whole boiler stove install (with the €2000 cost of a stove it's a huge investment) or is it better to use a stand alone stove to heat the open plan area and continue to rely on the oil for the bedrooms?

* If I use the boiler stove system we have been told that we need a 30Kw stove. It seems from this thread the Inis Meain Mark 2 and Stratford EB25 are the most recommended. I would ideally prefer a more contemporary style, my parents have a Nordica and it's beautiful and performs really well although I've seen no one recommend them here. Anyone have any suggestions?

* Am I better to get the heating system zoned or just turn off the rads that are no longer required with use of the stove. If the boiler option is what I go with should I invest in the zoning too - see below?

* What way does the system work? Does it heat water/rads first and then the rads? Am I best to turn off rads (either manually or if zoned) to get some heat into the main living area first and then turn on the rads section? I'm just concious of coming home from work and having to wait an hour for the rads to heat throughout the house before the living room and kitchen heat up.

Sorry for all the questions!

I'm sure others will chip in with an opinion - one thing strikes me. If you're coming home from work and need a heated house, you'd probably be best to stick at least partially with some sort of oil/ gas system run by a timer. Solid fuel works well but I think optimally for houses that are occupied on a more continuous basis. The separate stove heating the living area with a secondary oil system to put some background heat into the bedrooms might be the most cost effective. Reasons - early autumn and late spring are often mild enough that you don't need any heat in bedrooms but it's nice to have a warm living area. So you save oil there. Even in winter months when you would like a bit of heat in bedrooms etc., it doesn't have to be as warm as a living area. So what you'd spend on replacing the full system plus the fuel cost of running it, might well cost more than the bit of oil required otherwise. Given what you say, I'd keep the oil system for it's flexibility in timing etc., but have a nice solid fuel stove (non boiler) that will space heat your living areas.

Odyssey 2005 · 10-11-2015 10:11pm

BarryD wrote: »

I'm sure others will chip in with an opinion - one thing strikes me. If you're coming home from work and need a heated house, you'd probably be best to stick at least partially with some sort of oil/ gas system run by a timer. Solid fuel works well but I think optimally for houses that are occupied on a more continuous basis. The separate stove heating the living area with a secondary oil system to put some background heat into the bedrooms might be the most cost effective. Reasons - early autumn and late spring are often mild enough that you don't need any heat in bedrooms but it's nice to have a warm living area. So you save oil there. Even in winter months when you would like a bit of heat in bedrooms etc., it doesn't have to be as warm as a living area. So what you'd spend on replacing the full system plus the fuel cost of running it, might well cost more than the bit of oil required otherwise. Given what you say, I'd keep the oil system for it's flexibility in timing etc., but have a nice solid fuel stove (non boiler) that will space heat your living areas.

Good advice there 💥

BrianBoru00 · 10-11-2015 11:04pm

NattyRasher wrote: »

Hi All,
My word this is a huge thread. I've been reading for a few hours and am looking for guidance on a few things - I'm very sorry if I'm asking stuff that has been previously answered but I started reading at Jan 2015.

We have a large dormer bungalow that currently uses oil heating. The livingroom, and kitchen are open plan with a view to put a stove in the livingroom. There are two bedrooms downstairs and three upstairs.

* We have gotten quotes for installation of a boiler and room heating stove. Of the two quotes the cheaper is €1740 for installation of room heating stove and €3600 for boiler stove installation to dual run with oil heating. €3600 included new cylinder, pipe work, flue/chimney system. Is this a good price?

* If I have the money to do either am I really better to do the whole boiler stove install (with the €2000 cost of a stove it's a huge investment) or is it better to use a stand alone stove to heat the open plan area and continue to rely on the oil for the bedrooms?

* If I use the boiler stove system we have been told that we need a 30Kw stove. It seems from this thread the Inis Meain Mark 2 and Stratford EB25 are the most recommended. I would ideally prefer a more contemporary style, my parents have a Nordica and it's beautiful and performs really well although I've seen no one recommend them here. Anyone have any suggestions?

* Am I better to get the heating system zoned or just turn off the rads that are no longer required with use of the stove. If the boiler option is what I go with should I invest in the zoning too - see below?

* What way does the system work? Does it heat water/rads first and then the rads? Am I best to turn off rads (either manually or if zoned) to get some heat into the main living area first and then turn on the rads section? I'm just concious of coming home from work and having to wait an hour for the rads to heat throughout the house before the living room and kitchen heat up.

Sorry for all the questions!

Had similar situation and got solid fuel back boiler installed (also got solar panels at the same time). Ended up going for the Boru 30kw and turned out to be a great decision... We've used v little oil since. Use it in the morning for 30 mins. Have three zones - upstairs , living room/kitchen area and downstairs bedrooms. We light the fire and usually after an hour the room is well warm enough and like yourselves its a large area - at that point we put on the downstairs bedrooms or upstairs.

Find it great on say a on Sunday - Light the fire in the morning and "close" the vents so that it burns slowly and come home after 4-5 hours and the house is warm without having had the oil on.
Find it a lot easier to budget and use a mix of firewood, turf, coal to heat

k123456 · 12-11-2015 1:07pm

BrianBoru00 wrote: »

Had similar situation and got solid fuel back boiler installed (also got solar panels at the same time). Ended up going for the Boru 30kw and turned out to be a great decision... We've used v little oil since. Use it in the morning for 30 mins. Have three zones - upstairs , living room/kitchen area and downstairs bedrooms. We light the fire and usually after an hour the room is well warm enough and like yourselves its a large area - at that point we put on the downstairs bedrooms or upstairs.

Find it great on say a on Sunday - Light the fire in the morning and "close" the vents so that it burns slowly and come home after 4-5 hours and the house is warm without having had the oil on.
Find it a lot easier to budget and use a mix of firewood, turf, coal to heat

Hi Brian Boru

I have a Boro 20kw, v similar to yours, what setting do you have the dial set to please on the bottom left of stove, please

Its a circular dial, , which i think adjust the air input

BrianBoru00 · 12-11-2015 2:57pm

k123456 wrote: »

Hi Brian Boru

I have a Boro 20kw, v similar to yours, what setting do you have the dial set to please on the bottom left of stove, please

Its a circular dial, , which i think adjust the air input

Clockwise fully when Im starting it up and want to get things heated, half way most of the time and anti clockwise fully when we re out of the house and just want to keep a low heat going for a few hours 9 maintaining a nice temp in the house - open it up for five minutes and fill up the stove and the room is roasting once again..

Basq · 12-11-2015 8:57pm

Have had stove installed since Monday.. been lighting small fires for last few days and first day to use smokeless coal today. Noticed room was a little smokey.. opened stove and the rope seal has broken away between door and window! :mad:

BarryD · 12-11-2015 9:03pm

Basq wrote: »

Have had stove installed since Monday.. been lighting small fires for last few days and first day to use smokeless coal today. Noticed room was a little smokey.. opened stove and the rope seal has broken away between door and window! :mad:

Push it back into place, usually a groove....

Basq · 12-11-2015 9:06pm

BarryD wrote: »

Push it back into place, usually a groove....

Actually burned away!

EDIT:

Surely this can't be normal 3 days after installation (Heritage Dunmore).

funnyclub · 12-11-2015 9:20pm

Anyone got a Henley Achill 21kW insert boiler? I'm thinking of getting this fitted to my 4 bed semi d.

MarkN · 14-11-2015 7:48pm

hi all - got a Stovax Riva 66 convection stove fitted last week, still getting used to running it but anyone I've asked has said briquettes and dried wood are your only man. I've been using the above and even with the primary air low and the air wash at 25%, it's hammering through 6 briquettes in an hour or so. I used the last of the coal I had one evening and it did seem like it burned/glowed for longer. Have any of you used the stove specific coal and is it worth the price? My father in law has a boiler stove, one of the more traditional looking Stanley ones and he only has to top it up every 4 hours. If I left mine for 4 hours, it would be gone out :eek:

reubenreuben · 14-11-2015 8:00pm

MarkN wrote: »

hi all - got a Stovax Riva 66 convection stove fitted last week, still getting used to running it but anyone I've asked has said briquettes and dried wood are your only man. I've been using the above and even with the primary air low and the air wash at 25%, it's hammering through 6 briquettes in an hour or so. I used the last of the coal I had one evening and it did seem like it burned/glowed for longer. Have any of you used the stove specific coal and is it worth the price? My father in law has a boiler stove, one of the more traditional looking Stanley ones and he only has to top it up every hours. If I left mine for 4 hours, it would be gone out :eek:

Try the smokeless fuel ovoids. They last for hours with plenty of heat.
In my stove as soon as they are starting to glow, I turn the primary air off completely. I leave the airwash open 50%. The ovoids then glow orange for about 4 hours, just keep adding more on and thats it. They burn down to dust

deni20000 · 14-11-2015 8:14pm

SeaFields wrote: »

We are trying to decide on whether to fit a non-boiler or boiler stove at the moment. There is already oil central heating in the house but we have plenty of turf so either way we'll be fitting a stove.

Is it possible to fit a boiler stove to compliment the oil heating? Be it that we would be able to switch from one to the other for heating everything or just use one for rads and one for water?

And is it a big job/ expensive to install the boiler stove if we already have a heating system in place? The house is a three bedroomed bungalow with ten rads varying in size. The hot water tank is about two metres from the fire place across the hallway and through two walls.

Any input / past experience welcome

I have a boiler stove and haven't bought oil for the last 3 years in a house about the same size as yours but turf will probably not be hot enough to heat the rads sufficiently - you'll need coal. No problem heating water.

The cost of installation by a good plumber is about 600 euro and takes a good day to day and a half.

JR6 · 17-11-2015 7:04pm

Hi, My parents bough a Henley Apollo 5kw insert stove a few weeks ago.
I was at home the other day and I noticed that even with all the vents closed that the fire was raging and that the turf was burning fast. Not as fast as an open fire but still much too quickly for a stove with vents closed.
There seems to be a nice bit of updraught here.

The stove is connected to the first chimney pot (no flue liner).
There is no cowl on the chimney.

Would a cowl like a 8 to 4 reducer help here?
Could the door be damaged or seal broken to aid in the updraught?

Thanks!

Markcheese · 17-11-2015 9:29pm

A friend of mine got a pellet stove with a back boiler... It does 60% of heat to the rads and 40 % to the room - can set it on a timer or just thermostat- needs a pressurized system though- and I never asked him about noise-
Pellets seem to have gone out of fashion though -

Shanry · 18-11-2015 4:53pm

Hi
I have bought a Carraig Mor 30kw boiler and am getting a granite slab cut to size. I'm at a loss to know how far it should project out from the stove, does anyone have one and can you help?
Building Regulations website states 'the hearth projection should be at least 500mm' but this seems very excessive?

Vote 4 Pedro · 18-11-2015 5:10pm

Shanry wrote: »

Hi
I have bought a Carraig Mor 30kw boiler and am getting a granite slab cut to size. I'm at a loss to know how far it should project out from the stove, does anyone have one and can you help?
Building Regulations website states 'the hearth projection should be at least 500mm' but this seems very excessive?

I think it's a minimum of 300mm from the front door of the stove,
eg, Minimum of 300mm from the glass in the door to the front edge of the granite hearth.

Walter Becket · 18-11-2015 6:11pm

14 inches from the front of the stove or past the door when open which ever is more is my understanding.

gomamochi1 · 19-11-2015 12:47am

Shanry wrote: »

Hi
I have bought a Carraig Mor 30kw boiler and am getting a granite slab cut to size. I'm at a loss to know how far it should project out from the stove, does anyone have one and can you help?
Building Regulations website states 'the hearth projection should be at least 500mm' but this seems very excessive?

Usual guide is how far the door opens and an inch or 2 more. I recently fitted a Stratford eb25 kW and regret not doing this as only protruded about 10 inches and it leaves the wooden floor a tad messy! I thought the same as you originally that it would be protruding a lot- changed my mind since I am going to add granite to it if I can get away with it!

Stovepipe · 19-11-2015 6:05am

where do you get hearth slabs? are they sourced from builders' providers or headstone cutters? I want to fit a Henley Aran 6kw, rear exiting flue, to a standard fireplace. Would I need to put a flexible flue pipe down the chimney or can i just get a short joining pipe fitted?

regards
Stovepipe

BarryD · 19-11-2015 10:31am

gomamochi1 wrote: »

Usual guide is how far the door opens and an inch or 2 more. I recently fitted a Stratford eb25 kW and regret not doing this as only protruded about 10 inches and it leaves the wooden floor a tad messy! I thought the same as you originally that it would be protruding a lot- changed my mind since I am going to add granite to it if I can get away with it!

Safety issue isn't it, rather than cosmetic? Stoves are safer than open fires in some senses with regard to sparks and lighted objects shooting out of the fire. But fires and adjacent wood floors/ other combustibles are potentially a dangerous mix.

Free standing stoves are probably more dangerous for small children though as they protrude more and the surfaces can get very hot.

Stovepipe - stone cutters probably best for a custom piece. I've used floor tiles to good effect which would be a cheaper solution.

dathi · 19-11-2015 10:48am

Shanry wrote: »

Hi
I have bought a Carraig Mor 30kw boiler and am getting a granite slab cut to size. I'm at a loss to know how far it should project out from the stove, does anyone have one and can you help?
Building Regulations website states 'the hearth projection should be at least 500mm' but this seems very excessive?

http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,37240,en.pdf
page 27 300mm from frt of stove

Shanry · 19-11-2015 11:21am

Stovepipe wrote: »

where do you get hearth slabs? are they sourced from builders' providers or headstone cutters? I want to fit a Henley Aran 6kw, rear exiting flue, to a standard fireplace. Would I need to put a flexible flue pipe down the chimney or can i just get a short joining pipe fitted?

regards
Stovepipe

I'm getting mine made by a fireplace company in Kildare. It's beng cut to measure.

Triboro · 19-11-2015 11:42am

BarryD wrote: »

Safety issue isn't it, rather than cosmetic? Stoves are safer than open fires in some senses with regard to sparks and lighted objects shooting out of the fire. But fires and adjacent wood floors/ other combustibles are potentially a dangerous mix.

Free standing stoves are probably more dangerous for small children though as they protrude more and the surfaces can get very hot.

Stovepipe - stone cutters probably best for a custom piece. I've used floor tiles to good effect which would be a cheaper solution.

What would be best floor tiles around a stove to take all that heat? Think someone mentioned porcelain before, would they be ok?

r3nu4l · 19-11-2015 2:46pm

Urgent question. We have a Boru 600i inset stove (non-boiler) that was fitted yesterday. The fitter packed rock wool around the back and sides of the stove.

He did not put any insulation under the stove, which is testing on one inch of mortar, on top of two rows of blocks lying on their sides. The stove is therefore about 18 inches from the floor.

He also did not put any insulation on top of the stove or around where the smoke outlet pipe meets the stove.

This doesn't seem right to me. Can anyone advise me of the following:

Do I need insulation under the stove?
Do I need insulation on top of the stove and around the pipe?

What type of insulation should I look for? Vermiculite? Ceramic roll? Something else?
Any idea where to source the appropriate material in South Tipp if needed?

jobberx · 19-11-2015 5:57pm

mk2 wrote: »

The performance is great i can't belive the heat in the house,i have 12 rads coming off it and it heats them no problem,the chieftain is 17kw output 15kw to water and 2kw to the room which is about right for me,i would advise anyone thats thinking about getting a stove in to do it its well worth it you would think the heating is on from about an hour after the fire is lit,the materials cost me €690 including pump tank and thermostat,the plumber charged €600 for the work he had to mod the flu reducer to fit and he got a plasterer to patch up the wall and he fitted the chimney cowel,and the stove and fireplace cost €2960 fitted feel free to ask any questions!

Hi MK2,

We recently fitted a chieftain like the one you have listed previously. What settings do you find works best for maximum heat within the room where the stove is.

Thanks

Jobber

mrtom · 19-11-2015 6:06pm

My recently installed stove, a Fireline FX 5W, smokes when I open it for refuelling, even with an open window to ensure air flow..

The install has 2 meters of flue lining then joining the existing flue. There is a downdraught cowl fitted. I am happy with the stove otherwise. The fireplace has always had a good draught with an open fire used before.
Thoughts welcome

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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