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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,180 ✭✭✭k123456


    Just had an inset stove fitted with a marble back into an old open fireplace.

    There is an existing wooden, painted white, mantel, above the fire, which is about 60CM away.

    The fitter said it would be ok but I find it very hot to touch when running the stove.

    Am going to give the fitter a call back but just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and what the resolution?


    Sounds dangerous, you may need to replace the mantel, with something fireproof

    A mantle in white granite (same a as a white granite kitchen worktop) might work

    as your mantle is presumably less deep than a worktop which is 60cm, Im sure a piece could be cut from an off cut , fairly cheaply


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭wilser


    Have recently fitted a four pipe stove, one pair of connections for a cylinder and one pair for radiators.
    Is it ok to feed the system from the header tank into the rad circuit?
    Can't see any problems with doing it that way but one advantage would be that their would be no chance of hot water creeping back into the header tank by gravity circulation.
    I can easily pipe it either way but am just a bit wary in case their is a good reason why I should feed it into the hot water side.
    Also should I fit a non return valve on the cold feed to the system?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    wilser wrote: »
    Have recently fitted a four pipe stove, one pair of connections for a cylinder and one pair for radiators.
    Is it ok to feed the system from the header tank into the rad circuit?
    Can't see any problems with doing it that way but one advantage would be that their would be no chance of hot water creeping back into the header tank by gravity circulation.
    I can easily pipe it either way but am just a bit wary in case their is a good reason why I should feed it into the hot water side.
    Also should I fit a non return valve on the cold feed to the system?

    Probably above my 'pay grade' but reads like you're describing an 'open system' for the heating circuit, with a header tank and expansion pipe to same? Sounds normal enough. But what's this separate circuit to the cylinder? Is that completely separate circuit just running between stove and cylinder? Or is it connected in some way to the rad circuit? I presume they maybe linked somewhere, perhaps in the boiler on the stove and so the header tank/ expansion would cater for it as well? Can't quite figure the advantage of such a system i.e. does it make much difference compared to a primary circuit to cylinder and a branch off that to the rads but but I'm sure there's a good reason! :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭wilser


    It is all one circuit, two pipes from the stove are feeding the rads and the other two pipes are feeding the hot water coil.

    I can't see any problem with connecting the cold feed to the rad side of the stove as opposed to the return of the coil, but said id ask here just to be sure.
    Also wasn't sure what was best practise as regards to a non return valve fitted on the cold feed.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭funnyclub


    Hey guys I am looking to get a inset boiler stove fitted either a stanley cara plus or a stratford eco boiler and I have had 2 plumbers price the job for me. I currently have lpg gas with a baxi boiler.
    They have bought said they would do it differently.
    They both will come obviously come out the side of the chimney with the 2 pipes up into the bed room above and across to the hot press.
    I am having a bigger immersion tank fitted by both and a extra tank fitted to the attic.
    One has quoted me for a 14kw heat ex changer and 2 circulating pumps and the other guy said i didnt need a heat ex changer as the gas boiler was low pressure.

    Which is right? Advice appreciated.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,280 ✭✭✭Maysa07


    Hi,

    I got an insert stove installed a two weeks ago and after gradually building up the fire i noticed a leak at the corner of the heart. Thinking i had a leak under the floor i called the company who installed the stove to get it removed.

    When we removed the stove and lifted the hearth there was a large amount of condensation? The installer said he never seen the like.

    Question - Should the installer/expert know how to prevent condensation?

    I wonder if they will bill me for the removal and reinstall ?

    Thanks

    Pat


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,740 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    wilser wrote: »
    It is all one circuit, two pipes from the stove are feeding the rads and the other two pipes are feeding the hot water coil.

    I can't see any problem with connecting the cold feed to the rad side of the stove as opposed to the return of the coil, but said id ask here just to be sure.
    Also wasn't sure what was best practise as regards to a non return valve fitted on the cold feed.
    Thanks

    No how can you fit a vent and expansion off a pumped circuit?? It must be off the gravity side of things. The cold feed as you describe it isn't a cold feed, it's the expansion pipe, and in no way should it have a non return valve or any type of valve on it.
    You should really get a plumber in to do this as it can be extremely dangerous if done wrong


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    wilser wrote: »
    It is all one circuit, two pipes from the stove are feeding the rads and the other two pipes are feeding the hot water coil.

    I can't see any problem with connecting the cold feed to the rad side of the stove as opposed to the return of the coil, but said id ask here just to be sure.
    Also wasn't sure what was best practise as regards to a non return valve fitted on the cold feed.
    Thanks

    I just have one primary circuit in 1" copper going from the stove to the cylinder and back to the stove with a take off to the rads in 1/2" etc. IIRC, the cold feed and expansion are connected (via separate pipes!) to the return side of the primary circuit. No non return valves, safety pressure valve on primary circuit. Not same as your system but maybe helps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,065 ✭✭✭✭Odyssey 2005


    Maysa07 wrote: »
    Hi,

    I got an insert stove installed a two weeks ago and after gradually building up the fire i noticed a leak at the corner of the heart. Thinking i had a leak under the floor i called the company who installed the stove to get it removed.

    When we removed the stove and lifted the hearth there was a large amount of condensation? The installer said he never seen the like.

    Question - Should the installer/expert know how to prevent condensation?

    I wonder if they will bill me for the removal and reinstall ?

    Thanks
    I had the exact same thing happen about 4 weeks ago. Installer said the same thing to me. Lots of water under the hearth and LOTS leaked out. They lifted the hearth,cut away some of the floor under it and refitted. No problems since and no charge..hope this helpes you


  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭solid 5


    Hi folks - what's the best finish around an insert stove to minimise the risk of the plaster cracking? We are looking at puttin a new insert in, sitting on block, some block around it, and the pink fire resistant board encasing the stove. Do we need specialist skim cost (Victas??) or does it make much of a difference?

    If we leave the regular skim coat to dry properly over a couple of months will this be sufficient to avoid cracking around the insert?

    Really welcome suggestions to minimise cracking. Won't be puttin in granite above the stove / around the frame.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Vote 4 Pedro


    Stove finally getting fitted tomorrow....


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,968 ✭✭✭blindside88


    Got my stove in about 9 days ago and am delighted with it. We haven't had the heating on in the house since it went in. This thread has been a great source of info when I was looking and I just want to thank everyone for their input. Pic attached of it installed, am going to look at replacing the fire place surround at some stage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭wilser


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    No how can you fit a vent and expansion off a pumped circuit?? It must be off the gravity side of things.

    The expansion pipe is off the hot water side, it is the cold feed that I could pipe into the rad side.
    I was having cup of tea and was looking at the pipework and then had a brainwave that the cold feed might be better going into the rad side.
    Note to self... Never Drink and Think ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,515 ✭✭✭jaffa20


    Is it true that there are insets stoves that do no require having the chimney lined or fireback removed?.I would only be looking for a small 4-5kw stove. This is and old house though.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Got my stove in about 9 days ago and am delighted with it. We haven't had the heating on in the house since it went in. This thread has been a great source of info when I was looking and I just want to thank everyone for their input. Pic attached of it installed, am going to look at replacing the fire place surround at some stage.

    We have same type Stanley stove, throws out lots of heat into the room. Keep a fireguard ('nursery' type) in front most of time, partly as when kids were small they could accidentally come into contact with and secondly have timber flooring adjacent, similar to your location.


  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭Walter Becket


    wilser wrote: »
    The expansion pipe is off the hot water side, it is the cold feed that I could pipe into the rad side.
    I was having cup of tea and was looking at the pipework and then had a brainwave that the cold feed might be better going into the rad side.
    Note to self... Never Drink and Think ;)

    When you say cold feed are you talking about the pipe from the feed and expansion tank in the attic if you are then this pipe has a duel purpose it fills the system and allows for expansion it's traditionally attached to the return pipe at the boiler but modern practice is to fit it 6" away from where the vent pipe is on a horizontal pipe run the highest point in the system this is usually where the flow pipe goes into the copper cylinder. The fill and expansion pipe should be nearer to the cylinder than the vent pipe. To reduce the likelihood of hot water flowing up to the feed and expansion tank the pipe can be bent into a hockey stick shape and enter the tee from below. I hope this makes sense


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,740 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    wilser wrote: »
    The expansion pipe is off the hot water side, it is the cold feed that I could pipe into the rad side.
    I was having cup of tea and was looking at the pipework and then had a brainwave that the cold feed might be better going into the rad side.
    Note to self... Never Drink and Think ;)

    If you don't understand that the so called cold feed as you wrongly call it, is actually the expansion pipe, then you've no business playing around with solid fuel pipework. The pipe that goes over the tank is the vent.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,280 ✭✭✭Maysa07


    Maysa07 wrote: »
    Hi,

    I got an insert stove installed a two weeks ago and after gradually building up the fire i noticed a leak at the corner of the heart. Thinking i had a leak under the floor i called the company who installed the stove to get it removed.

    When we removed the stove and lifted the hearth there was a large amount of condensation? The installer said he never seen the like.

    Question - Should the installer/expert know how to prevent condensation?

    I wonder if they will bill me for the removal and reinstall ?

    Thanks
    I had the exact same thing happen about 4 weeks ago. Installer said the same thing to me. Lots of water under the hearth and LOTS leaked out. They lifted the hearth,cut away some of the floor under it and refitted. No problems since and no charge..hope this helpes you

    That was one of the suggestions i got, might just do that later on before they reinstall the stove. Thank you


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭funnyclub


    Hey guys I am looking to get a inset boiler stove fitted either a stanley cara plus or a stratford eco boiler and I have had 2 plumbers price the job for me. I currently have lpg gas with a baxi boiler.
    They have both said they would do it differently.
    They both will come obviously come out the side of the chimney with the 2 pipes up into the bed room above and across to the hot press.
    I am having a bigger immersion tank fitted by both and a extra tank fitted to the attic.
    One has quoted me for a 14kw heat ex changer and 2 circulating pumps and the other guy said i didnt need a heat ex changer as the gas boiler was low pressure.

    Which is right? Advice appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,673 ✭✭✭flutered


    i got a stove which i intend to put it into a large old open cottage fireplace, the fireplace will be mankey, as it has been blocked up for years, it has concrete walls, can somebody offer an idea as to the best way of cheaply dressing the walls, they are not even so painting is out, it is i think 6ft at the front 6ft deep, at the back it is roughly 3ft wide, as it is not as yet reopened i am unsure of the exact measurements


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    flutered wrote: »
    i got a stove which i intend to put it into a large old open cottage fireplace, the fireplace will be mankey, as it has been blocked up for years, it has concrete walls, can somebody offer an idea as to the best way of cheaply dressing the walls, they are not even so painting is out, it is i think 6ft at the front 6ft deep, at the back it is roughly 3ft wide, as it is not as yet reopened i am unsure of the exact measurements

    Concrete or stone? If stone, clean it up and repoint, leave bare. If concrete, get yourself some sand & cement and do a bit of creative plastering :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,157 ✭✭✭loki7777


    Hi
    I am in the middle of installing stove Porto 400 and it looks like guys who are doing that didn't understand me when i said that i would like to put something like that http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Guangzhou-Foahan-2013-anti-weathering-decorative_1414481409.html around the whole stove - without it going behind stove. Now it looks like as it is,so i can't do anything at all and they said that first builder will have to finish the wall as no one knows how big is the gap behind back panel(?).
    What would be the cheapest way to achieve what i want- hiring builder or using Fireplace Building Boards on whole wall - cuting hole, insterting stove into it and then tiling?
    That's the finial effect i wanted to achieve http://qwikspot.com/e/stone-fireplace-11024974/
    tutu.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,673 ✭✭✭flutered


    folks could ordinary or concrete tiles be used to decorate an old open fireplace, before i install a multi fuel stove, ot would i need to use stone faced or brick faced cladding, what type of tiles are these, that they are capable of resisting enormous heat

    https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/162096/367691.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    flutered wrote: »
    folks could ordinary or concrete tiles be used to decorate an old open fireplace, before i install a multi fuel stove, ot would i need to use stone faced or brick faced cladding, what type of tiles are these, that they are capable of resisting enormous heat

    https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/162096/367691.jpg

    They're no tiles thats a granite fireplace
    You can use whatever you like once it's non combustible concrete tiles or so will do rightly


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,300 ✭✭✭✭jm08


    flutered wrote: »
    folks could ordinary or concrete tiles be used to decorate an old open fireplace, before i install a multi fuel stove, ot would i need to use stone faced or brick faced cladding, what type of tiles are these, that they are capable of resisting enormous heat

    https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/162096/367691.jpg


    You can use Porcelain tiles - they are able to withstand the heat. There is
    Heat Resistant Tile Adhesive that you will need to use.


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭funnyclub


    Guys if you have gas heating and you want to fit a boiler stove do you need to have a heat exchanger fitted?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,504 ✭✭✭BarneyMc


    Can anyone recommend a decent Room Sealed Wood Burning Stove with External Air Supply, preferably traditional looking? Or a decent store that deals in these? Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    Barney mc ...no such thing as a wood fuel / solid fuel stove that are room sealed.
    Only stove that would fit that would be a gas balanced flue stove or pellet stove with external air feed.
    When building regs state roomsealed ..They mean stove that is not opened during use..so if you plan on refueling stove it's not room sealed ...so wood fuel or solid fuel stove don't go under room sealed.
    But you can get both with external air, but by building regs both would need a permanent air vent in room for when you have door open for fueling.
    Most turn blind eye to this but it is clear in building regs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,740 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    funnyclub wrote: »
    Guys if you have gas heating and you want to fit a boiler stove do you need to have a heat exchanger fitted?

    Depending on the gas boiler you have


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  • Registered Users Posts: 270 ✭✭cargen


    I am looking for a multi fuel insert stove of about 8/10 kw.
    What would you recommend ?

    My budget for the stove would be around 1000/1400 euro.

    Thanks


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