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Triton T90xr experts

2

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭achiman


    I have replaced the two bearings in motor/pump housing and its running nice and quite now ....


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Hi, I just moved into a house & the triton t90 has not been used for 6 months+. When I turn on the shower, water comes out the shower slowly but with no pressure. I took off the shower head & same - a small amount of water flowing out slowly. How do you clean the filter on these showers & any other actions you would recommend to get this shower going again. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭Stanzen


    @achiman,
    I am having the same problem, can you give any more details on how to fix this. I have opened the unit and have looked inside but am unfamiliar with the components. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Stern


    Hi,

    I have a Triton T90xr, and the shower head is not working right. I used to be able to fix it by soaking it in water/vinegar solution overnight, but this time it's different. I would like to be able to open the shower head and see what's wrong, does anyone know how to do this?

    I checked Triton's website and it doesn't show anything about the shower head in the manual.

    The shower head is the one you can turn to change the setting, and there are no special holes or screws I can see to dismantle it. The 'turny bit', for lack of a better word, is not flush on the shower head, which I think is causing the problem.

    Again any help taking this thing apart would be great, I know new shower heads aren't much but I think I could fix this if I could open it.

    Cheers.

    Edit: turny bit = spray plate apparently. Still no closer to finding out how to remove it. Some sites mention a screw, but I'm not blind and I don't see any screw on this thing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Stern


    Of course after posting I figure it out. There are 5 recessed holes in the spray plate. You are supposed to have a key which has 5 knobs to fit into this, then turn anti-clockwise to open.

    I was able to use 2 screwdrivers.

    Once off, I could see the plastic bracket holding the rest of the shower head together with a screw had cracked. Oh well new shower head. :)

    At least the info is here for anyone else searching.

    Triton T90xr - dismantle shower head

    Dismantle by turning the spray plate (just the bit with the spray knobs, not the spray adjuster) anti-clockwise, either with the key if you have it, or just a screwdriver. From there it's a straight forward screw and different plates laid on top of each other with rubber rings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 814 ✭✭✭Raytown Rocks


    Hi there

    I have a t90si. Its a bit like Triggers brush in Only fools and horses in the sense that its the same unit since day 1 but has had quite a few replacements parts over the years!! :D

    Anyway its dead again, made lots of noise for a day or so and now its not even pumping any water out.
    So anyway what do people recommend I replace it with

    A T90Z or a T90xr.

    ta

    Jay


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 178 ✭✭robbie67


    Hello I have an old Triton T90I on it,s last legs has any body got one of these Triton Seville 9.5kW Electric Shower and are they any good Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,196 ✭✭✭flyguy


    I think the T90I you have is a pumped electric shower (gravity fed) whereas the Seville is just an electric shower. If this is the case it is not a suitable replacement for your shower, you're probably better off with a T90Z (or old T90xr if you can find one). Not sure on this but the experts are sure to correct me if I'm wrong...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    flyguy wrote: »
    I think the T90I you have is a pumped electric shower (gravity fed) whereas the Seville is just an electric shower. If this is the case it is not a suitable replacement for your shower, you're probably better off with a T90Z (or old T90xr if you can find one). Not sure on this but the experts are sure to correct me if I'm wrong...

    Spot on !
    The seville is mains fed , whereas the t90i is fed from the storage tank


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    chef wrote: »
    Hi there

    I have a t90si. Its a bit like Triggers brush in Only fools and horses in the sense that its the same unit since day 1 but has had quite a few replacements parts over the years!! :D

    Anyway its dead again, made lots of noise for a day or so and now its not even pumping any water out.
    So anyway what do people recommend I replace it with

    A T90Z or a T90xr.

    ta

    Jay

    Z replaced the XR. Installed one on saturday last. Dimensionally the same but you will need to redrill for mounting hole locations are different. Water feed and power connections are in identical locations, so no worries there. Isolate water and electricity of course. Loosen bleed screw to purge air, power up to test, and lastly, remove the small retaining screw on the upper temp knob before fitting the front cover

    You'll be done in less than 1hr, all going well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 814 ✭✭✭Raytown Rocks


    dodzy wrote: »
    Z replaced the XR. Installed one on saturday last. Dimensionally the same but you will need to redrill for mounting hole locations are different. Water feed and power connections are in identical locations, so no worries there. Isolate water and electricity of course. Loosen bleed screw to purge air, power up to test, and lastly, remove the small retaining screw on the upper temp knob before fitting the front cover

    You'll be done in less than 1hr, all going well.

    Cheers Dodzy

    Was thinking of giving it a go myself all right.
    Have the cut off valve from the tank already off.
    Appreciate the h/u on the rest of the bits and bobs

    Jay


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    chef wrote: »
    Cheers Dodzy

    Was thinking of giving it a go myself all right.
    Have the cut off valve from the tank already off.
    Appreciate the h/u on the rest of the bits and bobs

    Jay

    Not a prob,

    I've seen installs where the plumber never fitted the gate valve at the tank for isolation. Miserable b'strds, for the sake of a few €.

    You'll be grand, just take your time ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 814 ✭✭✭Raytown Rocks


    dodzy wrote: »
    Not a prob,

    I've seen installs where the plumber never fitted the gate valve at the tank for isolation. Miserable b'strds, for the sake of a few €.

    You'll be grand, just take your time ;)

    Tbh I was worried about that myself.
    Hence I got a loan of a steps and checked that this afternoon before I bought the new shower.
    Have all the bits and bobs I need to may take a " slow " run at this later.
    Thanks again
    Much appreciated

    Jay


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,196 ✭✭✭flyguy


    If someone is looking for a T90z (replacement for the T90xr) the 8.5KWh model is on offer tmrw (fri 26/04) only for €199 in woodies (10 per store apparently). See the "door busters" leaflet in this topic http://touch.boards.ie/thread/2056934400/1


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭A2LUE42


    Did a replacement install with one of these last year and was really surprised how easy it was. Except for having to go to B&Q at 8pm for a drill bit for the tiles, as I couldn't find the ones I had. As stated above the mounting holes are different. You may want to seal the old ones in case any water gets in them and gets behind the tiles.

    Just watch out. The holes for the rail to hold the shower head are different and the rail itself is also different. You can just leave the one you already have in place and use it.(old is straight rail, new one has a curve)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 814 ✭✭✭Raytown Rocks


    Well I completed the install yesterday
    All went well or so it seemed until I turned it on.
    I had water going in but not pumping out
    Despite having followed the manual to the dot.

    Spoke to the earthridge guys directly.
    They said sometimes its hard to purge the air in the unit itself during installation.
    If this happens they said to run the shower with the purge valve open ( the valve that expels the air) for a while.
    Low and behold that works, and shes up and running.
    pity it didnt say that in the manual.

    Anyway maybe this will help anyone who has the same issue as me in the future


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    chef wrote: »
    Well I completed the install yesterday
    All went well or so it seemed until I turned it on.
    I had water going in but not pumping out
    Despite having followed the manual to the dot.

    Spoke to the earthridge guys directly.
    They said sometimes its hard to purge the air in the unit itself during installation.
    If this happens they said to run the shower with the purge valve open ( the valve that expels the air) for a while.
    Low and behold that works, and shes up and running.
    pity it didnt say that in the manual.

    Anyway maybe this will help anyone who has the same issue as me in the future



    Well done.....:D





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 97 ✭✭The Drum


    Hello folks. I have a dimplex pumped electric2000 that has gone bang. And was wondering would a triton t90xr fit and be compatable to replace it. Would be very grateful for opinons many thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 toneygecko


    Anyone know where I could get new motor and pump bearings for a t90 xr?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 86 ✭✭mac_09


    Here you go:

    http://dublinshowerrepair.com/showerparts/product/triton-t90xr-pumpmotor/

    Barry is brilliant, should have it out to you next day.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 213 ✭✭Snaggerman


    toneygecko wrote: »
    Anyone know where I could get new motor and pump bearings for a t90 xr?

    Earthridge (Barrats) in Maynooth, main dealers/distributors


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,303 ✭✭✭webpal


    My T90xr got airlocked a few months ago and ever since then its running perfect but a little noisier, over the past week or so this noise is deafening but the pressure and temperature are fine. Is there anything that can be done? Sometimes it just sounds like its going to explode. Its 7 years old.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    Have a triton t90 and it's stopped pumping, it was over heating for a few days, now when I turn it on its doing nothing. It's about 8years old.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,196 ✭✭✭flyguy


    The overheating was probably due to the pump failing. You could replace the pump, but as it is 8 years old you're probably better off replacing the whole unit. A t90z is the current model and should fit pretty easy. The mounting screws are likely different so require some drilling but that would be about it (piping and wiring the same). Check the current power of your unit as you don't want to go (much) higher otherwise you might require re-wiring.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    Thanks, wouldn't have the cash spare right now, I seen a reconditioned pump for sale for eur40 would that do the trick, would I be able to fit it myself. I've seen some youtube videos about turning off the mains and turning off the mains water also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,196 ✭✭✭flyguy


    I'm not an electrician or plumber but I'd say that should work. You could even see if it's just the motor brushes that have worn out, that would be the cheapest repair.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 86 ✭✭mac_09


    I agree with flyguy. My Triton went about a year ago, same story had it for about 6-7 years and thought it was gone for.

    Turned our it was only the brushes and cost about €10. I'd give them a check first.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    Where abouts did you get the parts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 86 ✭✭mac_09


    dublinshowerrepair.com


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Definitely worth trying the brushes first


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,303 ✭✭✭webpal


    webpal wrote: »
    My T90xr got airlocked a few months ago and ever since then its running perfect but a little noisier, over the past week or so this noise is deafening but the pressure and temperature are fine. Is there anything that can be done? Sometimes it just sounds like its going to explode. Its 7 years old.

    Anyone know is this is fixable?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    webpal wrote: »
    Anyone know is this is fixable?

    The bearing is gone in the pump /Motor. You need to replace the pump /Motor


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,196 ✭✭✭flyguy


    webpal wrote: »
    Anyone know is this is fixable?

    If you haven't tried already you should move the temp selector form full cold to full hot several times while the shower is running to remove any trapped air.
    There's also a bleed valve under the cover, but if water is being pumped you shouldn't need to operate that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    flyguy wrote: »
    If you haven't tried already you should move the temp selector form full cold to full hot several times while the shower is running to remove any trapped air.
    There's also a bleed valve under the cover, but if water is being pumped you shouldn't need to operate that.

    Air won't cause the pump to make this noise. He needs a new pump. Only the bearings can create the noise described.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    OK so I got the pump today from the site above, great service, anyone have the instructions on how to replace the pump?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭DonalB


    Hi all,

    I've got an approx 2 year old T90xr (that replaced the previous 8 years old T90) that has recently degraded the water heating. It is still heating but not as hot as previously and now must be turned to 10 (max) on the highest power to provide water that is warm enough (still not really hot-hot but adequate). The shower is used maybe only 5x a week. I checked the Triton FAQ and it said to check heating element with a multimeter but gave no further details or instructions.

    I live in a moderately hard water area and descale the shower head fairly regularly.

    Any suggestions or advice? Replacing the unit is financially impossible at the moment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    DonalB wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I've got an approx 2 year old T90xr (that replaced the previous 8 years old T90) that has recently degraded the water heating. It is still heating but not as hot as previously and now must be turned to 10 (max) on the highest power to provide water that is warm enough (still not really hot-hot but adequate). The shower is used maybe only 5x a week. I checked the Triton FAQ and it said to check heating element with a multimeter but gave no further details or instructions.

    I live in a moderately hard water area and descale the shower head fairly regularly.

    Any suggestions or advice? Replacing the unit is financially impossible at the moment.

    It could be the element or micro switch.
    Most likely the element.

    If the shower is 2 years or less it'll be covered by the 2 year manufacturers warranty. Having said that, they stopped making this model over 3 years ago so it's most likely older than 2 years


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭DonalB


    Thank you. Yeah, I'd guess maybe 2.5 years since I installed it. Any suggestions how I can check the element?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    DonalB wrote: »
    Thank you. Yeah, I'd guess maybe 2.5 years since I installed it. Any suggestions how I can check the element?

    You'd need to test (or get someone to test) it with a multi meter


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,031 ✭✭✭✭Snake Plisken


    So my trustworthy T90i which was installed in 1998 finally died this evening, I thought I could buy one and fit it myself just wondering was the T90i a 8.5Kw shower and if so the latest T90z is also 8.5Kw rated so should be straight swap correct? If so do I need to replace the pull cord isolation switch? Also on the plumbing side do i need any additional fittings to connect it and for drilling the tiles what size drill bit and fixing screws should i get?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    So my trustworthy T90i which was installed in 1998 finally died this evening, I thought I could buy one and fit it myself just wondering was the T90i a 8.5Kw shower and if so the latest T90z is also 8.5Kw rated so should be straight swap correct? If so do I need to replace the pull cord isolation switch? Also on the plumbing side do i need any additional fittings to connect it and for drilling the tiles what size drill bit and fixing screws should i get?

    The t90i came in 8.5kw and 9.5kw. It's not important to replace like with like. It's much more important to fit the correct size (KW) shower. You need find out if you have 6mm or 10mm cable. If it is 6mm you definitely can't go with the 9.5kw. Also most likely you'll need a REC to upgrade the fuse at the fuse box. If you don't have a 40 amp rcbo then you need one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,031 ✭✭✭✭Snake Plisken


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    The t90i came in 8.5kw and 9.5kw. It's not important to replace like with like. It's much more important to fit the correct size (KW) shower. You need find out if you have 6mm or 10mm cable. If it is 6mm you definitely can't go with the 9.5kw. Also most likely you'll need a REC to upgrade the fuse at the fuse box. If you don't have a 40 amp rcbo then you need one.

    40amp Rcbo already in place on the fuse box, I think I will err on the side of caution and go 8.5Kw, more worried about the plumbing side, any idea will I need to use any type of sealer at the joint it'll additional fittings I need to purchase, or is it straight forward enough?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    40amp Rcbo already in place on the fuse box, I think I will err on the side of caution and go 8.5Kw, more worried about the plumbing side, any idea will I need to use any type of sealer at the joint it'll additional fittings I need to purchase, or is it straight forward enough?

    You get all the fittings you need in the box. It's straight forward enough


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,031 ✭✭✭✭Snake Plisken


    Picked the new T90 up tonight, but no wall fixing screws or plugs included what size should I get for this? Also Is it ok to re-use the existing compression fitting?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Picked the new T90 up tonight, but no wall fixing screws or plugs included what size should I get for this? Also Is it ok to re-use the existing compression fitting?

    I always leave the elbow on the pipe so you only have to fit a nut & ring to the shower.

    Get a new tile bit 6mm, red plugs & 5x40mm screws


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,031 ✭✭✭✭Snake Plisken


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I always leave the elbow on the pipe so you only have to fit a nut & ring to the shower.

    Get a new tile bit 6mm, red plugs & 5x40mm screws

    Thanks for your help sleeper finally got it done straight forward enough the nut was a bit of pain to get off but did in the end picked up the bits you recommended above and mounted it.

    Couple of additional questions where the pipe comes out of the plasterboard wall there is a small square opening is it ok to seal that up as to stop any water leaking into the cavity? If so what would you recommend? It's only a small square inch x inch approx.
    The wiring coming out of the wall is shielded no damage and good and thick but the earth wire is bare copper was thinking of insulating it in some way.
    Where the black plate is screwed into the wall on the pipe side at the top there is a small gag probably 3 to 4 mm think it's due to the pipe work jutting out a button that side can I use silicon to seal around the backplate, I think I read somewhere no to as its used for air intake or something.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Thanks for your help sleeper finally got it done straight forward enough the nut was a bit of pain to get off but did in the end picked up the bits you recommended above and mounted it.

    Couple of additional questions where the pipe comes out of the plasterboard wall there is a small square opening is it ok to seal that up as to stop any water leaking into the cavity? If so what would you recommend? It's only a small square inch x inch approx.
    The wiring coming out of the wall is shielded no damage and good and thick but the earth wire is bare copper was thinking of insulating it in some way.
    Where the black plate is screwed into the wall on the pipe side at the top there is a small gag probably 3 to 4 mm think it's due to the pipe work jutting out a button that side can I use silicon to seal around the backplate, I think I read somewhere no to as its used for air intake or something.

    Thanks

    The hole you can fill with silicone if you are worried but there is no need to do it.

    The earth wire is fine as it is but I'm sure a sparks will tell you the regulations say it should have a sleeve.

    The shower manufacturer prefers no silicone around the shower. I try not use it most of the time but sometimes you just have to. If you feel like you need silicone on the top & left side then use silicone.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,164 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    have a t90 xr that is dripping from the shower head when off. anything I can check before I go ordering parts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,156 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    have a t90 xr that is dripping from the shower head when off. anything I can check before I go ordering parts?

    You need to replace the solenoid.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 127 ✭✭armstrongracer


    Impellor on my T90si sheared again, second one in 3 years. Think this T90 has hit the end of it's useful life. The water pipe comes through the tiles, if I get a newer model T90 does anyone know if the water inlet is in the same place? I don't really want to be drilling through the tiles if I can avoid it.


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