Breaking in new barrel / different ammo

corelokttikka · 28-11-2015 11:45am #1

Hi lads. Any tips in breaking in new barrel. Tikka t3 lite 308. I have some cheap umc and hornady superformance sst to use. What proceedure would you advise. Ive never done this before.

German pointer · 28-11-2015 1:16pm

Below is a copy of the email I got from Tikka in England when I asked the same question earlier this year about my new T3 in .270win

It wont matter what ammo you use I used PPU 150gr as it was the cheapest and was happy to discover the PPU groups under 1 inch at the 100 yards for me

From

Bill Moore

<bmoore@gmk.co.uk>
Attachments29 May

to me
Good morning,
Please find attached a copy of the T3 manual for your information, please note in addition to the initial cleaning before first use we recommend that you “ shoot the barrel in”.

So once you have carried out the initial maintenance before use we suggest that you fire a single round and then clean the barrel thoroughly and then fire another round, repeat this for approximately ten rounds or so.

Kind regards

Bill

Bill Moore
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Sales Team Member | GMK Ltd
Bear House | Concorde Way | Fareham | Hampshire | PO15 5RL | UK
www.gmk.co.uk

T: +44 (0)1489 587500 | F: +44 (0)1489 579937

Description: GMKsig

Cass · 28-11-2015 1:59pm

Over the years I've broken some rifles in, and others i've not bothered with. On the higher end rifles and ones with custom barrels it makes no difference from what i've been able to record. On other brands it's almost required.

For example i had a CZ 527 Kevlar a couple of years ago. I had 100 rounds or so through it and i could see grouping improving with the same ammo. I spoke to other lads with the same rifle and they told me their rifle did not come into it's own until after 150+ rounds. On the custom barrel for my FTR rifle breaking in was not a necessity and the rifle shot perfectly whether i done it or not. I found this out by breaking previous barrels, and then not breaking in the last one. Was a bit of a risk i suppose, but the results speak for themselves. With no break in process the gun holds 2.375 inch groups at 1,000 yards.

If i were to break a barrel in i have two methods depending on the rifle, barrel, ammo cost, and what i feel like doing. They are identical with the only difference being the amount of rounds fired.

I usually start with 1 shot and clean. Repeat for 10 rounds.
2 shots and clean for 10 (5x2)
3 shots and clean for 15 (5x3)
Lastly 5 shots and clean for 15 (3x5).

45 - 50 rounds total. OR:

1 shot. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for 10 - 15 rounds.
3 shots. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for another 25 - 30 or so rounds.
5 shots. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for 25 - 35 rounds.
10 shots. Bolt out and clean. Repeat this for 30- 40 rounds.

80 - 120 rounds used.

I have read many others opinions and reasons for breaking in or not. None of them have any more scientific basis than my own.

As i said at the start i've done both and in only one rifle of all the rifles i've owned was breaking in shown to be necessary or a positive step, and that was a hunting rifle not a target one. In all other cases i have not found a reason to break it in.

Cass · 28-11-2015 2:07pm

BTW as a form of a guide here is what i recommend for cleaning products, as what you use and how you use it is as important as the cleaning itself.

One piece cleaning rod. Stay away from 2/3/4 peice rods. They can "bend" when being pushed down the bore and may slowly damage the bore from constant cleaning with it. Also with the one piece rod look for a coated rod. Prevents any damage when using. Good makes would be;

Dewey
Bore Tech
Pro Shot
Tipton

Next on the list would the cleaning products. For centrefire rifles you need the oils but also some solvents to remove the copper & carbon fouling. Most of these need to be applied liberally and left for anywhere between 5 minutes up to 24 hours depending on brand. They "dissolve" the copper and allow for full cleaning. It only needs done every so often, as it would be a deep clean. Everyone will have different opinions on how often, but you will find you rifle likes to fire dirty or clean and will adapt your cleaning to suit. Some brands of solvents are;

Forest Foam
Butch's Boreshine
Wipe out
KG 12
Forrest Foam
KG 1

A "vital" piece of kit (IMO) is a bore guide. They are not overly expensive but provide a good deal of protection to your chamber when cleaning. They simply sit in your rifle where your bolt should be and allow easy insertion of the cleaning rod and will not allow it to constantly strike the "face" of your chamber. Some good makes are;

BoreTech
Hoppes Universal Bore Guide
Lucas
Anschutz (Own brand for rimfire rifles)
Dewey

Next for rifle would be the attachments for you rod. The standard would be a;

Jag (for your patches)
Nylon brush to agitate the fouling
Mop (to polish after all is done)

Lastly a bag of patches of proper size depending on the caliber you use. As in 2" round/square patches for a .308

Cass · 28-11-2015 2:14pm

Lastly the cleaning procedure:

I use KG, and Forest Foam products mostly. KG 1 for carbon removal, and Forest Foam or KG 12 for copper removal. It's important to remove the carbon first otherwise when the patches come out clean you think the barrel is. It's not. It's only the carbon cleaned out. The copper will stain the patches a blue/green colour. When the the copper solvent patches are running wet, and clean then the barrel is clean.

My routine would consist of the following:

KG/Forest Foam for regular barrel cleaning. (Wipe out/Butch's Bore shine now and then for heavy cleaning.)
Run a KG1 soaked patch through the barrel. This is a carbon remover to get the grime out first.
Leave to sit for a few minutes.
Run another wet patch with KG 1 through the barrel to moisten the fouling, and remove the first lot of carbon..
Run a nylon brush up and down the barrel about a half a dozen times. Clean the brush each time with a spray oil to prevent a build up of gunk on it.
Run another KG 1 patch down the barrel to remove fouling while treating the barrel again.
Leave to sit for a minute or two.
At this stage have about 15 or so oiled patches at the ready.
Start running them down the barrel one after the other until they run clean. The patches need to remain wet to prevent dry carbon sticking to the bore.
If they come clean before the 15 great. If not use more or repeat steps 2-9 again.
When they run clean and wet, then start using the dry patches.
Run as many as is needed until there is no more oil on the patches coming out.
Now repeat steps 2-9 using the copper solvent instead of the carbon remover. You are looking for wet, and clean patches. If there is any hint of blue or green then there is still copper in the barrel.
Use KG 12, Forest Foam or in the case of heavy fouling Wipe out. In the case of Forest Foam you simply fill the barrel and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes or so. The KG 12 can be left to sit for a little while also, but make sure you use wet patches when patching.
When you are all done and have dry patched the barrel use the mop and run it up and down the barrel again about a dozen times. The Mop should be clean throughout this. Any sign of dirt and the barrel is not clean.
On the last run leave the mop half protruded from the muzzle. Wipe around the muzzle and clean any fouling on the crown. The mop will prevent anything running back down into the barrel.
Remove the bore guide and use a tooth brush, patches and bore brush to clean out the chamber, breach, etc.
If you have it use a shotgun mop/nylon brush to clean the chamber thoroughly as a fouled up chamber can cause stiff bolt lift and ejection problems.
Wipe down the rod, brushes, jag, and bore guide. Never leave them up dirty.
If the rifle is being stored away for a few weeks i roll up a soft cloth and place it into the chamber up against the breach and store barrel up.
On the off chance that i have somehow missed some residual this will collect it.

Most will have there own method. Its as personal as ammo choice, rifle choice, etc. One small tip though. Each time you run the rod up the gun have a cloth in hand to wipe the rod. This prevents any residue or gunk from the barrel sticking to the rod, and being run up and down the barrel like a paste.

FISMA. · 28-11-2015 6:28pm

Aside from a good initial cleaning to ensure there is no factory gunk in the barrel or action, I do not believe in any fire cleaning methods.

I have seen a few cracked cases in brand new rifles that were not properly cleaned after they left the factory.

I have never seen any scientific data to support the increased barrel life hypothesis. I think break-in procedures are more "feel good" than good science.

corelokttikka · 28-11-2015 9:56pm

FISMA. wrote: »

Aside from a good initial cleaning to ensure there is no factory gunk in the barrel or action, I do not believe in any fire cleaning methods.

I have seen a few cracked cases in brand new rifles that were not properly cleaned after they left the factory.

I have never seen any scientific data to support the increased barrel life hypothesis. I think break-in procedures are more "feel good" than good science.

Thanks lads. Ill get some cleaning equipment.

725b · 01-12-2015 4:23pm

Best advice you can be given is make sure you clean the new barrel thoroughly before use as above advised.Very important and saves a lot of unnecessary head scratching trying to zero.As for the rest of breaking in process never had the patience for it.Also while zeroing the new barrel have a few tools with you in the field for tightening mounts etc just in case.Good luck with the new rifle

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Breaking in new barrel / different ammo

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