PSXDupe wrote: »

Can anyone recommend a good cleaner and oil. It's for my 12g and 22LR.

The brands i use are:

• Forest Foam
• Wipe Out
• Bore-Tech Shotgun Blend
• Bore-Tech Rimfire blend

The forest foam and Wipe out are excellent all purpose cleaners. They are designed to remove everything. Carbon, copper, lead, etc, etc. They will not damage the bore, and can be left in for a prolonged period of time without any harm, but i prefer to clean out in the one sitting.

The Bore-Tech stuff is also excellent. The problem is getting it and maintaining a steady supply. I had to import from the UK as i could not get it from the states. It's specifically designed to remove lead and carbon (Rimfire blend) and carbon/plastic fouling that occurs in shotgun (Shotgun Blend).

For oil i use Brunox. It's a great all purpose oil and i use a patch or two at the end of each cleaning cycle regardless of firearm type.

Lastly for wiping out the barrel after you've cleaned i use Methylated spirits soaked patch. About two or three. The meth will simply evaporate without leaving any residue. Even if there is some left in the barrel the first shot will remove this, again without burning the methylated spirits into the bore.

I've seen others use similar products but any degreaser will work.

Luckysasha wrote: »

........... not to oil the inside of the barrel. He reckoned if a small pocket of oil got left in the barrel the bullet wouldn't be able to push it out.

Yeeeeeaaaahhhhhh...............



The amount of oil needed to remain in a barrel to cause the excess pressure he is thinking of is huge. The barrel would have to have such an amount of oil in it that the barrel would effectively be blocked by the oil.

The only real "danger" with oil in a rifle is some on the bolt face or head of the case. Under firing the oil would not compress enough to allow the rifle to work properly and would increase the pressure on the breach to such an extent that it may cause catastrophic failure.

Using just common sense how would oil remain in the barrels to such a large amount anyway? Guns are stored either barrels up or down and any excess would settle at the muzzle or breach assuming either end was blocked by an object or the bolt being left in the gun and in the closed position.

For a shotgun it's a non issue (in the barrels).

Luckysasha wrote: »

I'm only using the brunox at the moment do I need to use a oil as well.

Just to be 100% clear Brunox is NOT a solvent. It can loosen some fouling but it's not a complete cleanser. It is good for external cleaning and protection as well as using in the barrels/bore after using a solvent. It will not remove copper from rifles or lead/plastic from rimfires or shotguns.

I'm not an expert in the area of barrel protection and cleaning. What i'm suggesting is the end result of years off trying various brands, products and regimes.

Brunox can bee used to remove any excess or residual solvent from the barrels. As i've said above i use Meths after the oil. You could just use the oil and then a dry patch, but the Meths is what i prefer.

tac foley wrote: »

All this is perfectly true, but Forest foam has one other property that is less than useful - in addition to removing all the crud, it also removes all the finish from a wooden stock, leaving bare wood streaks that mean, at the least, a partial refurbishment of the stock in that area.

Who the hell uses a copper solvent to clean their timber stock, and at 37 i'm far from a fuddy duddy (hint - 4 of my firearm have timber stocks).

I get your point but mistakenly thought people took the time and care to protect vulnerable parts of their firearms such as the stock. I made up a neoprene cover that wraps around the stock of my rifles at the hand grip/action to prevent spillage onto the stock. You can also use layers of cloths and of course in all circumstances a bore guide should be used (were possible).

hexosan wrote: »

@Cass
If you don't mind Where do you get these and at what price.

Forest Foam i get from Jim MCBrides in Athlone, Wipe out from Dominic Bryne. The Bore-Tech stuff is a pain in the hole to get. I last ordered it over 2 years ago from the UK (Tacfiresystems IIRC), but i think, only think, that the lads in Intershoot in the North can get it or do it.

Prices vary, obviously because of different dealers, but the forest foam is on average €12 for the small can and €25 for the large one. The Wipe out was €25 for the large bottle, and the Bore-Tech stuff is around £12 per bottle, but cost more due to shipping.


One last recommendation that i should have mentioned as i use it more regularly than the others is KG. I use KG1 for carbon remover and KG 12 for the copper. I get both from Lakelands in Mullingar and they cost, IIRC, €12 per bottle.

Luckysasha wrote:

Ok so I need to use a solvent with the brass brush to remove copper / lead fouling.

It's a personal choice but i hate brass brushes. There is no need to scrub the bore with a brass brush for two reasons:

1. The solvent can do it's work if it's left to do it. IOW if the solvent you are using cannot remove the fouling without being scrubbed to death inside the bore then look for a new solvent.
2. Brass brushes can create a false positive. IOW when then patches keep coming out green/blue, etc it can sometimes be because of the brass brush. The same holds true for the jag. I use the Bore-Tech proof positive attachments for this reason. They are not made of brass so give no false positives. IOW when your patches show clean it's clean. No unnecessary scrubbing because the brass from your jag tells you it's still dirty.

/sigh

Can you see emoticons? If you can then you missed the intended jest in my post. If you cannot see them then the post takes on a different context without it.