chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

copper12 · 11-06-2014 4:15pm

The information I have so far; is that she was built in Poland 1966.
Spent time in England until mid seventies.
Then Dublin Howth yacht club used for class 111 raising
Then on to Galway for the last fifteen years
She was held together by thirty layers of paint.:rolleyes:
As can be seen from previous post. she must have broke her moorings; and ran aground, jugging by the damaged that I have repaired
But sure it’s like getting new leather soles; on old shoes, as good as new, but much more comfortable

Now it resides in my backyard; most likely for another year
Then who knows

I have removed all the decking
I was hoping to getaway with the rear hatch
How ever; there’s a lot of rot there’ at least on the starboard side’ I might be able to slip in a panel there
Having worked on removing the decking’ it seems ’ I may be able to remove the cabin’ in one piece’ depending on how the rudder components come apart and if I will have enough play; as I will be replacing the 5mm ply with 9mm

copper12 · 12-06-2014 9:38pm

Evening all
Making use of the long days; getting a bit done, removed the transom, there was a lot of rot there,
No real problems removing bit
Instead of trying to screw out the screws; I cut between the plank and the rib; then poped out the head of the screw
I don’t think I will be able to remove the rear cabin; because of the rudder
The area around the cabin is fairly good; and I would probable do more damage than good trying to force it
So I will work around it’ clean up’ recaulkd’ and after a dozen coats of varnish’ it should be good
The roof of the cabin is mahogany strips’ so I will be ably to do any repairs’ with what I have left over from the planking’ only two boards are in need of repair’ so scarfed in one, I will do the other once this one sets
Here’s a few photos

copper12 · 12-06-2014 9:40pm

a few more

copper12 · 17-06-2014 9:01pm

Evening all
What with the great weather I have been getting a bit done
I also have a fine farmers’ tan:D
Removed the transom’ and have laminated a few pieces’ from some left over teak
I am trying to make use of every scrap of wood
So over the next few days, I hope to finish at least the transom’ and then on to the decking
So after a hard day nothing better than a Heineken and the first aid kit how bad:cool:

copper12 · 22-06-2014 11:49pm

Fergal remember that link you gave me back in December

Well I have made use of it’ for the transom
Anyone else have anymore tips’ or links’ I would be grateful
I will need all the attachments for a wooden mast; I am not even sure what I am looking for’

so if you have any experience with wooden mast’ then pleas let me know

BrensBenz · 23-06-2014 12:18am

copper12 wrote: »

I will need all the attachments for a wooden mast; I am not even sure what I am looking for’ so if you have any experience with wooden mast’ then pleas let me know

I've made a few wooden masts in my day, mostly for racing dinghies, some legal, others (ahem) not quite legal. I've also renovated a Folkboat mast. Are you repairing, renovating or replacing your mast?

If you're only replacing hardware, you should try to gather as much information, dimensions and locations of the original fittings as you can. My maths isn't up to calculating the stresses experienced by a mast so, when I was given a stripped mast to fix up, I had to photograph and take measurements from the mast in a similar boat and copy it. Not very scientific but it's still standing!

copper12 · 23-06-2014 12:28am

Brensbenz thanks’ for getting back so quick
I will be starting from scratch
I have a few photos of the original mast; taken from a distance’ and what I have gathered from the net’
I have the rolling boom’ and the mast step’ that all
From what I know so far’ it will measure 39ft and 5”at the base
I am hoping to rig it so that I can sail it’ single handed from the cockpit’
So no winches on the mast; well that the plan

fergal.b · 23-06-2014 8:07am

Very nice.

tinski07 · 23-06-2014 10:14am

I've only made solid mast and they were both for gaff rigs so If your making a hollow one you'll find what you need online, I glued mine with Prefere 40/50 glue, The replacement for Aerodux.
Swindon aircraft company in the UK are happy to ship it here.
I assume she is bermudian anyway so you'll need a sail track, gooseneck fittings, Some little brackets for the spreaders, the piece on the top that the shrouds to attach to and probably a sheeve in the masthead for you main halyard and block for your topping lift.
You'll probably need some attachment near the base of the mast for the kicking strap.
All you'll need to control it from the cockpit are some deck mounted blocks to run the lines aft to your winches, perhaps some fair leads with built in cam cleats to make life easier.
Not sure if thats of any help to ya.

fergal.b · 23-06-2014 10:45am

I know a few of the guys on Glen-l make masts with a bird mouth edge on one side of the plank, here is a video of the kind I mean https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcYhO8jKxvI It would be easy to set up a router or saw to cut them out.

index.php?PHPSESSID=64bb40e673784d9ee37fd07db8f9e92e&action=dlattach;topic=2972.0;attach=1622;image

index.php?PHPSESSID=64bb40e673784d9ee37fd07db8f9e92e&action=dlattach;topic=2972.0;attach=1622;image

Some good info on it here. http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/birdsmouth/index.cfm and on a Bi- Conical http://api.ning.com/files/uNv-XzwOEjf8i6SpVYKq91W-mUvmSlUkx0sGL0irZ6bKZEqDcfkdm4gSuppYtLg6R6W7r9yQ-gIpyhaMkEcGG0*3uf5*7JaQ/Buildingoftwo10mwoodfreemastsmadewith12stringersV01.pdf

.

copper12 · 23-06-2014 5:34pm

Thanks lads I really appreciate the advice
Tinski your advise is exactly what I need if you could dray it out it would be great
I will try and post a photo that t was taken many years ago tinski you might be able to tell me what I need in order to build it
Fergal I have made a trial piece of birds mouth I will more than likely go that way 8 sided
Myself and lidli or aldi :rolleyes: I get mixed up witch is witch ‘were able to lift the rear hatch so I can run the ply under there was enough play in the rudder to get it to lift a half inch or so:)

copper12 · 23-06-2014 6:43pm

Here’s a few pictures of here’s in her prime
Also the trial birds mouth

pedroeibar1 · 23-06-2014 10:21pm

To add to what Tinski has posted –
She is cutter-rigged with an inner and an outer forestay. In those cases the inner often is demountable at deck level so that it can be brought back to the mast to be kept out of the way. Also looks as if she had twin backstays, possibly low down but then joining further up to form a single backstay (good because it spreads the load on the transom.)

Mainsail track - usually an alloy of bronze on older boats, essentially a flat length of metal with lips forming a groove into which the sliders on the luff and foot of the main fit to allow it to be raised /lowered. Screwed at about 6 inch centres. For halyards I'd use wire spliced to rope, that way there is more room inside the mast. Don't forget space for electrics (e.g. steaming light.)

Boom gooseneck fitting – I’d go for a basic fitting and would not bother with roller reefing; slab reefing is more effective because it gives a better shape to the sail and does not cause kicking-strap problems.

Brackets for spreaders - not really load-bearing, they mainly just keep the spreaders in place.

She has at least inner and outer shrouds, the inners probably meeting the mast just below the crosstrees. Possibly two outers?

I would be inclined to have a couple of sheaves, one for main halyard, one for jib. The block for the topping lift need not be too strong as it carries only the weight of the boom. Consider if you will fly a spinnaker, you will need a block for that also. And one for the jib. Are you going to consider a furling jib?

One good winch centrally mounted ahead of the cockpit on the cabintop with a row of jam-cleats in front of it and all halyards leading though it should work. Be very careful in getting the angles correct where the halyards come out of the mast.

I know the ‘birds mouth’ is just a model but I’d source the closest-grained timber I could find for the mast.

Is there any way you could get to a yacht club/marina to have a really good look at some older boats to see this stuff in real life? Most masts are ‘up’ at this stage, but come September many will be on the flat and readily inspectable.

Below is a modern masthead on a small sloop, showing (typically) a bar through the top to carry pins and sheaves for forestay, backstay, halyards, etc. Not exactly what you are looking for but it should give you an idea...
Great to see the progress you are making, keep up the good work.:)

copper12 · 23-06-2014 10:37pm

Thanks lads it will take a while for this information to sink in
Here’s a few details of the king ametyst some off witch I can grasp the rest is lost in translation

copper12 · 24-06-2014 9:19pm

Evening all
I put a bit of ply on the e rear decking area’ what with the weather about to change
I would have to take my tools of the boat at least this way I can leave them there
I will have to remove the ply later’ as it’s not sitting right
I also started fitting a piece of 2x1 oak; the front cabin starts from this up; not easy trying to bend oak
It will take a few days to fit’ I have to scarf in a couple of joints as well’ but I’m waiting on some resorcinol glue
I know this is a big ask; if someone with experience of building mast’ or even a knowledge’ of the fittings required’ if they could let me know what I need ‘I can research and figure out the rest
Attached is the photo of the fitting that attaches to the gooseneck is there anyone familiar with this type of fitting
I hope to rig her the way she; was two rolling furlows and main mast
Any little bit of information would be appreciated

BrensBenz · 24-06-2014 11:41pm

copper12 wrote: »

Attached is the photo of the fitting that attaches to the gooseneck is there anyone familiar with this type of fitting
I hope to rig her the way she; was two rolling furlows and main mast
Any little bit of information would be appreciated

Fair dues, lads - I haven't read them all but there's great information in earlier posts. As I'm in the presence of geniuses, feel free to ignore any or all of the following but remember, if you ask ten people how to make a mast, you'll get ten different answers......and they will all be right:

The gooseneck fitting is large but not an uncommon arrangement. But the photos of the gooseneck fitting are slightly confusing! I'm guessing that the "tongue" (the long piece that fits into a track on the mast) is rotated 90degress in the first shot? The tongue should be vertical, slide up and down a track on the mast and have a locking mechanism. Mine locks with a simple bolt - I managed to "acquire" and attach a bakelite knob to the bolthead to make it more user friendly but your sail area is much larger than mine so probably better to look at a downhaul.

As far as material to make a mast, my all-time preference is silver spruce - light, strong, easy to work and ages beautifully - but it's difficult to get, particularly in the lengths you would need. Good alternatives are douglas fir, sitka spruce, etc.
I also prefer simple construction - the Folkboat mast I worked on was both a complex work of art (when new) and a complex pain in the ass (when used!)
I usually laminate "full size", that is, if max diameter, including luff track, is 4", I laminate pieces to form a 4" square "plank", find its natural bend and then decide "which way is up" and the taper depending on the location of that natural bend.
I also prefer to laminate fore to aft more than side to side. This allows forward to aft bending (and sail shaping) while reducing side to side bending and the work required by shrouds / stays and spreaders.
And I know this is odd but I prefer the sweat from pushing traditional tools along a mast rather than simply guiding power tools!

There are lots of decisions you need to make first, e.g.:

Is the mast to be hollow, with halyards, wiring, etc, inside?
Is the luff track to be screwed on or worked into the mast, similar to the foot track shown in the photo of the boom? My racing head says "built-in". An external track is leaky but it shows you where the problem is and eliminates the fun and games when timber swells!
Do you like scarfing? How many scarfs could you tolerate?
You say 5" diameter at the butt. What diameter and section at the head?
Will your mast have a taper and, if yes, starting from where? Gooseneck? Spreaders?

copper12 · 25-06-2014 6:43pm

Evening all
Finished fitting the cabin side carlings; to the port side’ see I new id’e pick it up as I went along:)
Up to now I have gotten away without a steam box; so I came up with a idea; :eek:to get the bend in 1” oak
The pictures tell the story; wet rag’ tinfoil’ and a heat gun. :cool:

copper12 · 25-06-2014 7:03pm

Brenzbenz thanks for the information
Here’s a few more photo’s of the boom fittings
I will most likely rebuild the boom and try and use the original fittings
I will most likely go with pedroeibar1 advise and keep it simple for the main sail

There are lots of decisions you need to make first, e.g.:
Is the mast to be hollow, with halyards, wiring, etc, inside?
Outside halyard inside wiring

Is the luff track to be screwed on or worked into the mast, similar to the foot track shown in the photo of the boom?
Most likely outside track
Do you like scarfing? How many scarfs could you tolerate?
I’m getting the hang of it now

You say 5" diameter at the butt. What diameter and section at the head?
? I need to find out about that

Will your mast have a taper and, if yes, starting from where?
Just after the gooseneck there’s not much of a taper

pedroeibar1 · 26-06-2014 2:03pm

First of all I’ve never built a mast, just looked at lots of them on various boats down the years, so I’m no construction expert.

Groove in boom/mast. – there are two types, one which allows the boltrope on the sail to be fed through it, the other takes ‘slug sliders’ that fit into the groove and are attached to the luff or foot. The former IMO is OK for the foot, but if you are going to recess the luff I would use slugs. When the sail is fed into the groove it inevitably is on racing yachts as it give a marginally better airflow over the leading edge of the sail.

Track - screwed on externally, but the back of the mast could be routed to recess it. Important to have as few joints as possible to prevent sliders from catching. Obviously screwed as short centres and countersunk. Make sure that the screws and the track are the same metal (avoid electrolysis.)

Inside/outside halyards – on an old boat I sailed on as a kid had a hollow mast and the halyards went up inside it. They were SS wire spliced to rope – the wire gave strength and did not take up much room inside the mast. If you are going to spend time sleeping aboard having the halyards inside is much quieter, otherwise you will have to tie them out.

Scarfing – instinct tells me that you should avoid it, as I feel it would be a weak point. I’d use different lengths of timber to minimise weak-point joints.

Are you near any of the bigger yacht clubs where a boatman could give you a look at a few examples?

copper12 · 26-06-2014 9:58pm

Pedroeibar1 thanks for the reply
What you say about having the halyard in side the mast’ makes sense. epically as I intend to sleep onboard a lot
Modern ropes; are a lot thinner than in the past’ so it should be to difficult the achieve
Although her sails were lost’ when than mast went overboard; I did get some of her old sails’ I will have to dig them out and take some photos’ maybe you can tell from them; how she was setup
I will look into putting a grove in the mast
Thanks again for the advice’ they are copied and studied with great care’ already, I am getting a better understanding of what I want to achieve

pedroeibar1 · 27-06-2014 11:49pm

Copper,
I’ve been looking at your rigging plan in post #115. I like the layout, coherent & efficient, everything back to the cockpit, easy for minimal crew and no need to go on deck. However, it looks different from the ‘side elevation’ if you look at the position of the winches. On the first it looks as if they are on the cabintop, on the other it looks as if they are alongside the cockpit. The cabintop position seems more sensible, as they can be used for the various halyards/uphauls/downhauls in the jammers. Once locked, the halyards etc are ok and the winches can then be used for the genoa sheets. Think about strengthening /reinforcement but more IMPORTANTLY the delivery angles of the various sheets/halyards etc. – get that angle wrong and you will have to live with riding turns. You do not want that.

Do go for furling genoa, I know it is a bit more expensive but believe me it is worth every penny. I’ve a Plastimo and I’m happy with it.

From what I can make out of the RHS schematic on this plan , you have twin backstays, forestay, inner forestay and three shrouds – cap shroud, inner shroud that ties in at the same point as the inner forestay on the mast and lower shroud that connects at the crosstrees.

Looking at photo 315 in post #116 it would seem that there was an external track or fitting on the mast into which the gooseneck fitting slotted. The angular holes either side were to receive an L-shaped reefing handle - simply wind it and the gear inside the fitting turned, thereby winding the main onto the boom.

The photo in #119 is 'historically' important. It seems that everything (uphauls/halyards/wiring) was outside the mast. The double block arrangement (on the shackle you can see) is the boom downhaul. The rest is anyone’s’ guess!

Heavy rain this afternoon in the SW, salmon will be running on tonight's tide, I'll be off with the rod in the morning!

copper12 · 28-06-2014 9:53am

The rigging plan in post #115’ gave me something that I could work with; and with my very limited knowledge of rigging’ allowed me to go around and look at yachts; and understand, what I was looking at.
A month or two ago; didn’t know what a halyard’ or a outhaul’ was, but with the help of people in this forum; I’m getting to know what I’m actually looking at
The building of the mast is a few months off; knowledge gained now; will determine how I attach the hardware
Or at least where it may need reinforcement .
The furling genoas depending on the cost; I will decide weather to buy them; or make my own .

The shrouds; there a four of them, there is a double attachment at the rear Chan plate’ I think this shroud attaches to the mast halfway between the crosstrees and the head of the mast

A question for anyone out there; can I attach the chain plates; to the outside of the hull; instead of the inside’ there was a lot of damage visible; caused by water ingress’ where the chain plate goes true the decking
The position of the winches
There is one’ either side of the cockpit’ and one lager one at the rear of the cockpit
I am thinking’ that I will need two more; if I run all ropes back to the cockpit’ so I can handle her by myself; it’s the location of these winches that will be critical
In my head’ I’m thinking to have some attachment; simpler’ to the one in photo 315 in post #116; the location will be below the gooseneck and inline with the top of the cockpit
Or just attach everything to the mast step and use guides to route the ropes
Thanks again for the advice both myself and I am sure others are learning a lot from these posts

Heavy rain this afternoon in the SW, salmon will be running on tonight's tide, I'll be off with the rod in the morning! Man after my own hart,
tied these up just in case there’s a drop of water on the river

BrensBenz · 29-06-2014 12:53am

copper12 wrote: »

A question for anyone out there; can I attach the chain plates; to the outside of the hull; instead of the inside. there was a lot of damage visible; caused by water ingress’ where the chain plate goes true the decking

As far as I know, there is only a slight mathematical advantage in having chainplates on the exterior of the hull and only a slight cosmetic disadvantage, but that's in the eye of the beholder. Of course, whether external or internal, they must be fixed to something rock solid. Have you removed ALL of the damaged material in the chainplate area?

During the renovation of my boat, I found not only the decks but the chainplate backing pieces (1" thick mahogany "plates", butted to the underside of the gunwale and shaped to sit on the top three clinker planks) were "mushy" and had to be replaced. Oh how I wished I had noticed this BEFORE I fitted new side decks!

copper12 · 29-06-2014 6:11am

While there were a lot of reasons’ for there being so much damage’ and rot’ to the area around where the chain plates, attach to the hull
A lot of this damage, was caused by water ingress; over the years’ that is why I would rather have them on the outside’ as you can see from the photos’ all of the damaged wood I have replaced

fergal.b · 29-06-2014 6:26am

copper12 · 29-06-2014 7:38am

pedroeibar1 · 29-06-2014 10:58am

Just wait until he gets the one for the ironmongery!:(

fergal.b · 29-06-2014 11:10am

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Just wait until he gets the one for the ironmongery!:(

It might be worth calling into Hegarty's boat yard in Skibbereen it's a big yard full of bits from old wooden boats, they also do teaching classes so I'm sure they will help out any way they can.

.

pedroeibar1 · 29-06-2014 11:29am

Hope you had better luck than I on the river yesterday; despite the amount of rain the land seems to have soaked it up, the river level was very low and not much flow.

Furling genoa – this is essential if you are singlehanded. The photo ‘Drum3’ shows how the aluminium tube is covering the forestay and in it is a plastic liner that is the groove up which the boltrope of the sail slides. The drum on the foot is riveted to the tube and contains the line to furl the sail. An alternative would be to have the forestay sewn into the luff of the headsail. A swivel at the peak and a drum on the foot with another swivel and you have the same effect. I would not bother with a furling rig on the staysail. (And you need to think a bit more if you really need that sail???) If you are doing extensive cruising and no racing I would consider putting the foresail on a horse or maybe even having a boom foresail?

Chainplates – traditionally they were on the outside of the hull. I would not like them going through the deck. I have a plastic boat and the chainplates are bolted to the deck with a matching plate below that is reinforced by a bar attached to the hull I do not know if the stresses of a mast the size of yours would allow this……..

Shrouds – (terminology - they go to the sides, stays go in a fore/aft line.) The winch in the centre rear of the cockpit suggests (along with your comment ‘there is a double attachment at the rear Chain plate I think this shroud attaches to the mast halfway between the crosstrees and the head of the mast’ that the mast has running backstays (runners). The centre winch would be needed for them and could also be used for the spinnaker sheet/guy. Runners are a bitch at the best of times even with crew. I would change the rig to avoid them.

Going sailing!

kfod · 02-07-2014 12:35pm

We have running backstays on Teal. They add another dimension to tacking and I am in dread of a crash gybe! If you are planning on single handing it could be worth changing the rig to do away with them.

pedroeibar1 · 02-07-2014 5:59pm

Agreed – I once had a 7/8ths rig and detested the runners. Never again, hence my comments above.
Running backstays are really for a fractional rig – as KA is not fractional I’d guess that they are related to the staysail – i.e. they are rigged only when the staysail is set and shipped/tied to the base of the mast or shrouds when not in use. That is why I suggested the need for a staysail needs consideration.

copper12 · 02-07-2014 10:54pm

Evening all
Well I finally started putting stuff back into the boat; refitted the mahogany laths; in the stern area’ it would be very difficult to do these’ when the decking goes’ on as there is only a crawl space there’
I managed to save the copper nails’ and reuse them’ it turned out well’ I gave it two coats of varnish’ it got it’s first coat fifty years ago’:D
It will be another fifty before it see the light of day again

Also finished, reinforcing the area, around the mast steap’ I basically put things back’ the way I dismantled them’ bulk head’ and two ribs tied together’ with 10mm galvanised treaded bar’
I decided to take advantage of the fine weather’ and me shrunken timbers’

to start on the caulking ‘
Slow difficult work’ caulk between the garboard plank’ and the keel’ is as thick as your small finger’
I’ve attached a picture of the some of the caulk’ that I have removed’ some area’s it would take ten minuets to remove a meter of caulk’ and replace it’ others it would take two hours’ to just remove the caulk’ and five minuets to replace’ reminds me of the weeks’ I spent removing the paint off the hull

copper12 · 02-07-2014 11:02pm

From what I have seen from old pictures, and zooming in on the few technical drawings, I have managed to come across, she has not got running back stays
Two back stays, fixed to the mast head, and two shrouds, on either side, from the rear chain plate, one attached below the spreaders, and one attached, opposite the inner forestay
Hope that makes sense, thanks for the comments, Teals looking well; sail turned out well; after the cleaning

kfod · 02-07-2014 11:48pm

Cheers Copper, it's a shame I didn't get it cleaned up before the Baltimore Wooden Boat Festival, but if we waited till everything was perfect we'd never hit the water! That oxalic acid is mighty stuff for the rust, gotta attack the Jib and Staysail next

Glenalla · 03-07-2014 10:14am

Just be careful using oxalic acid on sails as it can damage the stitching.

kfod · 03-07-2014 11:35am

Hi Glenalla,

I knew it could weaken the sails alright, but they were in such a state and they are all, except the Genoa and maybe Topsail, going to be replaced this winter, that I thought it would be worth the chance. I wonder how long before any weakening would show up?

copper12 · 05-07-2014 12:58am

Open the seem’ twist and fit the cotton’ drive home the cotton
Open an other foot; twist and fit the cotton’ drive home the cotton
Fit plaster; :mad: swollen thumb’

open another foot’ twist and fit the cotton; drive home the cotton
Only an other 29 planks to go; thirty foot long, if I close one eye’ I can only see’ what I have done, and not what I have to do.

copper12 · 06-07-2014 5:46pm

Still caulking
The other half went on the town last night, so absolutely no hammering.
I needed to make a router table; so myself and Aldi, will make a start on that.
35 euros where would you get it

I’m getting fairly handy at the old carpentry stuff

pedroeibar1 · 06-07-2014 11:17pm

copper12 wrote: »

Open the seem’ twist and fit the cotton’ drive home the cotton
Open an other foot; twist and fit the cotton’ drive home the cotton
Fit plaster; :mad: swollen thumb’ open another foot’ twist and fit the cotton; drive home the cotton
Only an other 29 planks to go; thirty foot long, if I close one eye’ I can only see’ what I have done, and not what I have to do.

FWIW, that's supposedly where expression 'the Devil to pay' originates. Caulking is also known as 'paying'. You've paid the price!:)

copper12 · 09-07-2014 7:58pm

Evening all
Still caulking
I have a right arm; Arnold Syasenager; would be proud of
I managed to find some photos of yachts’ similar to mine
I would appreciate if people could have a look
I think I have enough information’ to enable me to build the mast’ there just one thing.
I the photos’ it would seem that the mast’ has two tapers, one from the mast step’ and reaches just below where the winches are attached’ the other from the spreaders; and goes to the mast head .
At the mast step. it measures 120mm; 4 ¾ inches; looking at some of the photos; it would seam to increase to 200mm; 8 inches; and then reduce to the mast head .
Have a look let me know what you think .
There’s quite a few there

copper12 · 09-07-2014 7:59pm

few more

copper12 · 09-07-2014 8:00pm

last couple

copper12 · 11-07-2014 7:24pm

Seeing that there’s not a lot happening; hammer’ twist’

Anyone who caulks boats; for a living there’s a place in heaven for ya

Since I’m hopefully’ only going to do this once’ I didn’t invest in any tools; for this job instead; I dáfeacked’ :pac: a few tools, namely a chisel; and a saw blade’ works a treat
Removing the old rotten boards; gave me the chance. to see how she was Original anal caulked. one single strand of cotton twine. down the centre of the plank; this I would think. was done ;while she was being planked’
Planks are 22mm thick; I’ve basically done the same. one single strand of cotton twine. two types, thick and thicker:p . I ground down a chisel 10mm; with a slight bevel’ this was by accident’ rather than design, but it allowed the chisel to ride the bevel in the seems.
I have the port side done, and have started on the starboard side, I am taking advantage of the fact that; her planks have shrunk; and some of the seems have opened up; I will leave the putty alone, until I am ready to paint her, that should give the planks, time to swell; well that’s the plan:o
Below are a few picks

tinski07 · 11-07-2014 8:05pm

Be sure to prime your seams after caulking, with a good primer, they used to use red lead but good aluminium primer will do. She will probably tend to shrink more without the putty but its a good opportunity to absolutely saturate her in boiled oil and paraffin. That will start her taking up, preserve her and stop further shrinkage. When I say saturate, we probably put 20 gallons of paraffin into Teal over a few weeks, You have to do it before the putty as it will melt it.
Its all advice I took from the professionals and which I used. But make sure all your gluing is finished.

The primer prevents the cotton from rotting.

PS, Don't smoke near by

copper12 · 12-07-2014 5:32am

tinski07
Where would I buy 25lt drums of linseed oil

tinski07 · 12-07-2014 8:19am

No what you need is a big drum of paraffin and stick as much linseed oil into it as you want to pay for, I was buying 25euros of paraffin and adding a liter of linseed oil to it then spraying it on with a garden weed sprayer inside and out as often as possible.
Usually when I had finished up for the day because you don't want to be working on it for a few hours after.
The plumbing shop in Skibbereen sells paraffin by what ever quantity you want, not sure how easy it is to get elsewhere.

copper12 · 12-07-2014 8:46am

Just a couple of questions ;
Did you heat the paraffin oil mixture ;
Is there any lingering smell ;
Had you any problems painting her later ;
Do you think, there would be any problems’ varnishing over wood’ treated in this way
Increasing the amount of linseed oil; would this be better or worse

tinski07 · 12-07-2014 11:29am

No you don't need to heat it, Just throw in the bottle of linseed oil and shake the lot up a bit.
Its fairly potent just after you put it on but its fine again the next day and I was working in the tent when I was treating Teal.
There's no issue with painting after, Not sure about varnish but I doubt you'd have any problem.
You have to stop before puttying anyway and as the putty takes couple of months to dry before painting you won't even no you had put the stuff on.
The mix I used was probably pretty weak, They use different mixes for different reasons, The paraffin seems to soak deep into the timber and carries with it the oil. I was told to put neat paraffin on the summer before I took the paint of to help her out a bit. Then the mix to start her taking up before caulking and puttying.
Apparently when building them in the past they would soak the inside until it came out on the outside.

If there is anything I found restoring a wooden boat is that there are absolutely no hard or fast rules about anything and there are lots of ways of doing everything. You just have to suit yourself, your boat and your pocket.

copper12 · 16-07-2014 12:14am

evening all
still Caulking
Taking tinski advise, I have sourced some paraffin oil, aka kerosene ,
And four litre drum of boiled linseed oil
So I have to fit a thousand or so bungs, and fit some spleens
I am still using the riconsenoil glue, great stuff , I make up about a half litre; of the stuff, and what I don’t use,
I put in the freezer' it stops it going off, and allows me to use a tea spoon amount, at a time,
Plastic drink cups,, from water dispensers‘, are very handy for holding small amounts of glue,
An old stiff tooth brush, for spreading, easily cleaned, with warm water ‘allows you to use it often’
I had planed on starting on the decking’ but for now’ I will be plugging away’:p with the mahogany plugs’:D
And twisting cotton :rolleyes:
I had intended to post a few photos but getting them from the phone to the boards they have got lost in cyber space god only knows where they have ended up
:mad:

copper12 · 16-07-2014 12:18am

found them :P

chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

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