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Cleaning HMR rifle

  • 28-07-2014 4:55pm
    #1
    nedcbr6
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭


    What is the best for cleaning your rifle every time your shooting with your rifle or leave it for a while or every 100/150 shots with it ?????


Comments

  • #2
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    For a hmr it depends on time or amount of shots.
    • So if you shoot a lot then about every 150 - 200 or longer if you haven't lost accuracy.
    • If you don't shoot a lot and leave the rifle sitting up for weeks/months on end then clean before putting it away each time.

    I wrote this a while ago about cleaning, products and technique, but most of it is still relevant. I edited it to suit .17hmr only:

    One piece cleaning rod. Stay away from 2 or 3 piece rods. They can "bend" when being pushed down the bore and may slowly cause damage. Also with the one piece rod look for a coated rod. Prevents any damage when using. Good makes would be;
    • ProShot
    • Bore Tech
    First on the list is a carbon cleaner/remover to be used before any solvent. I use KG 1. It dissolves and removes carbon so you can get to the copper and give a thorough cleaning.

    Next on the list would the cleaning products. For rimfires there is usually no need for solvents as the rounds contain no copper but for .17hmr it is necessary. Most of these need to be applied liberally and left for anywhere between 5 minutes up to 24 hours depending on brand. They "dissolve" the copper and allow for full cleaning. Everyone will have different opinions on how often, but you will find you rifle likes to fire dirty or clean and will adapt your cleaning to suit. Brands of solvents i use/recommend are;
    • M-pro 7
    • KG 12
    • Forrest Foam
    • Wipeout

    A good oil would also be needed.
    • Hoppes
    • Kirkland
    • Napier
    • Tetra
    • Butch's
    • M-Pro
    • KG

    After a good cleaning i usually use Methylated spirits and patch out the barrel 2 - 3 times. It removes any excess solvents, oils, etc, and will not leave any residue itself when the rifle is next fired.

    A "vital" piece of kit (IMO) is a bore guide. They are not overly expensive but provide a good deal of protection to your chamber when cleaning. They simply sit in your rifle where your bolt should be and allow easy insertion of the cleaning rod and will not allow it to constantly strike the "face" of your chamber. Some good makes are;
    • BoreTech
    • Hoppes Universal Bore Guide
    • Lucas
    • Anschutz (Own brand for rimfire rifles)
    • Dewey
    Next for rifle would be the attachments for you rod. The standard would be a;
    • Jag (for your patches)
    • Wire/Nylon brush (to agitate the fouling)
    • Mop (to polish after all is done)
    Lastly a bag of patches of proper size depending on the caliber you use. As in 2" round/square patches for a .308, but not for a rimfire as it would not go through the rifle.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • #3
    nedcbr6
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭nedcbr6


    Cheerz for all that Cass
    The methylated spirits is it the same as what you would use for cleaning paint brushes ???
    Cass wrote: »
    For a hmr it depends on time or amount of shots.
    • So if you shoot a lot then about every 150 - 200 or longer if you haven't lost accuracy.
    • If you don't shoot a lot and leave the rifle sitting up for weeks/months on end then clean before putting it away each time.

    I wrote this a while ago about cleaning, products and technique, but most of it is still relevant. I edited it to suit .17hmr only:

    One piece cleaning rod. Stay away from 2 or 3 piece rods. They can "bend" when being pushed down the bore and may slowly cause damage. Also with the one piece rod look for a coated rod. Prevents any damage when using. Good makes would be;
    • ProShot
    • Bore Tech
    First on the list is a carbon cleaner/remover to be used before any solvent. I use KG 1. It dissolves and removes carbon so you can get to the copper and give a thorough cleaning.

    Next on the list would the cleaning products. For rimfires there is usually no need for solvents as the rounds contain no copper but for .17hmr it is necessary. Most of these need to be applied liberally and left for anywhere between 5 minutes up to 24 hours depending on brand. They "dissolve" the copper and allow for full cleaning. Everyone will have different opinions on how often, but you will find you rifle likes to fire dirty or clean and will adapt your cleaning to suit. Brands of solvents i use/recommend are;
    • M-pro 7
    • KG 12
    • Forrest Foam
    • Wipeout

    A good oil would also be needed.
    • Hoppes
    • Kirkland
    • Napier
    • Tetra
    • Butch's
    • M-Pro
    • KG

    After a good cleaning i usually use Methylated spirits and patch out the barrel 2 - 3 times. It removes any excess solvents, oils, etc, and will not leave any residue itself when the rifle is next fired.

    A "vital" piece of kit (IMO) is a bore guide. They are not overly expensive but provide a good deal of protection to your chamber when cleaning. They simply sit in your rifle where your bolt should be and allow easy insertion of the cleaning rod and will not allow it to constantly strike the "face" of your chamber. Some good makes are;
    • BoreTech
    • Hoppes Universal Bore Guide
    • Lucas
    • Anschutz (Own brand for rimfire rifles)
    • Dewey
    Next for rifle would be the attachments for you rod. The standard would be a;
    • Jag (for your patches)
    • Wire/Nylon brush (to agitate the fouling)
    • Mop (to polish after all is done)
    Lastly a bag of patches of proper size depending on the caliber you use. As in 2" round/square patches for a .308, but not for a rimfire as it would not go through the rifle.


  • #4
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Yup.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • #5
    nedcbr6
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭nedcbr6


    Cass does it matter clear or purple for the Methylated spirits ???
    Cass wrote: »
    Yup.


  • #6
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    No.

    They are the same thing. Methylated Spirits are naturally clear and odourless. They add Methyl Violet (a dye) to give it colour, etc. I use the purple one myself.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



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  • #7
    mister gullible
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭mister gullible


    Cass wrote: »
    For a hmr it depends on time or amount of shots.
    • So if you shoot a lot then about every 150 - 200 or longer if you haven't lost accuracy.
    • If you don't shoot a lot and leave the rifle sitting up for weeks/months on end then clean before putting it away each time.

    I wrote this a while ago about cleaning, products and technique, but most of it is still relevant. I edited it to suit .17hmr only:

    One piece cleaning rod. Stay away from 2 or 3 piece rods. They can "bend" when being pushed down the bore and may slowly cause damage. Also with the one piece rod look for a coated rod. Prevents any damage when using. Good makes would be;
    • ProShot
    • Bore Tech
    First on the list is a carbon cleaner/remover to be used before any solvent. I use KG 1. It dissolves and removes carbon so you can get to the copper and give a thorough cleaning.

    Next on the list would the cleaning products. For rimfires there is usually no need for solvents as the rounds contain no copper but for .17hmr it is necessary. Most of these need to be applied liberally and left for anywhere between 5 minutes up to 24 hours depending on brand. They "dissolve" the copper and allow for full cleaning. Everyone will have different opinions on how often, but you will find you rifle likes to fire dirty or clean and will adapt your cleaning to suit. Brands of solvents i use/recommend are;
    • M-pro 7
    • KG 12
    • Forrest Foam
    • Wipeout

    A good oil would also be needed.
    • Hoppes
    • Kirkland
    • Napier
    • Tetra
    • Butch's
    • M-Pro
    • KG

    After a good cleaning i usually use Methylated spirits and patch out the barrel 2 - 3 times. It removes any excess solvents, oils, etc, and will not leave any residue itself when the rifle is next fired.

    A "vital" piece of kit (IMO) is a bore guide. They are not overly expensive but provide a good deal of protection to your chamber when cleaning. They simply sit in your rifle where your bolt should be and allow easy insertion of the cleaning rod and will not allow it to constantly strike the "face" of your chamber. Some good makes are;
    • BoreTech
    • Hoppes Universal Bore Guide
    • Lucas
    • Anschutz (Own brand for rimfire rifles)
    • Dewey
    Next for rifle would be the attachments for you rod. The standard would be a;
    • Jag (for your patches)
    • Wire/Nylon brush (to agitate the fouling)
    • Mop (to polish after all is done)
    Lastly a bag of patches of proper size depending on the caliber you use. As in 2" round/square patches for a .308, but not for a rimfire as it would not go through the rifle.

    Or pull a bore snake thru with a bit of light oil. ;)


  • #8
    Cass
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,631 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Won't get rid of the copper.

    Plus i hate bore snakes. They are an emergency took and even at that i'd stop shooting before being reduced to using one.

    But hey, whatever blows your hair back.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • #9
    meathstevie
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,772 ✭✭✭meathstevie


    Boresnakes are fine but you have to pull straight from chamber to crown. Every so often a good thorough clean out as described above simply has to be done.


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