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Boiler not firing up [Firebird]

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    #62
    agusta
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    jimf wrote: »
    good to hear you got sorted did he give it a full service change nozzle then do a fga test on the emissions and provide you with a printout
    I agree with this,If your photocell was jet black,then your boiler is full of soot too


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    #63
    agusta
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Arsenium wrote: »
    At 10:15 at night I thought that might be pushing it :-)
    :)


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    #64
    .jacksparrow.
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,428 ✭✭✭.jacksparrow.


    jimf wrote: »
    good to hear you got sorted did he give it a full service change nozzle then do a fga test on the emissions and provide you with a printout

    I'm sorry did you not read the pump is gone?

    How can you do a fga if this is the case.


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    #65
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    Arsenium wrote: »
    At 10:15 at night I thought that might be pushing it :-)

    a fair point I suppose

    had a call out last Friday night at 7pm poor old dear had no heat like yourself her fuel pump needed to be replaced

    got it running for her but went back sat morn at 9am to do a full service and emissions test no extra charge because it was my choice to leave it

    at the end of the day she was paying good money the least I could give is a good service


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    #66
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    .jacksparrow. wrote: »
    I'm sorry did you not read the pump is gone?

    How can you do a fga if this is the case.


    I think you need to read the full post jack

    if he just changed the fuel pump and got the boiler running maybe you might enlighten me why its not possible to do a fga I await your reply


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    #67
    .jacksparrow.
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,428 ✭✭✭.jacksparrow.


    jimf wrote: »
    I think you need to read the full post jack

    if he just changed the fuel pump and got the boiler running maybe you might enlighten me why its not possible to do a fga I await your reply

    But he didn't say he changed it, he said a new pump is required.

    It was just an observation, let's not start a long winded discussion!


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    #68
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    .jacksparrow. wrote: »
    But he didn't say he changed it, he said a new pump is required.

    It was just an observation, let's not start a long winded discussion!


    ahh

    maybe I misread the post if so apologies jack of course your right
    presumption will be the end of me

    no big discussion required if im wrong no problem admitting it


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    #69
    .jacksparrow.
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,428 ✭✭✭.jacksparrow.


    jimf wrote: »
    ahh

    maybe I misread the post if so apologies jack of course your right
    presumption will be the end of me

    no big discussion required if im wrong no problem admitting it

    He probably did replace it and all and I took it up wrong! anyway it's no biggie, at least someone who seems competent was able to diagnose it which is good to see for a change!


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    #70
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    .jacksparrow. wrote: »
    He probably did replace it and all and I took it up wrong! anyway it's no biggie, at least someone who seems competent was able to diagnose it which is good to see for a change!

    and he also came back and let us know the outcome fair dues

    I don't know about anybody else but it really pisses me off when people don't bother to let you know what solved their particular problem


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    #71
    Arsenium
    Registered Users Posts: 637 ✭✭✭Arsenium


    jimf wrote: »
    and he also came back and let us know the outcome fair dues

    I don't know about anybody else but it really pisses me off when people don't bother to let you know what solved their particular problem

    Sorry Jim. I thought when I had posted earlier that the replacement pump was needed that was enough.

    He disconnected the fuel line and drained some kerosene out, there was some awful looking stuff at the start of the flow of kerosene and he said this stuff was killing the pump. And it apparently is a very common issue when tanks are allowed to run low. Especially if people tilt the tank or rock it to get the last little drop out of it (which I didnt do btw). Apparently any moisture in the tank settles at the bottom of the tank and if this gets sucked down into the boiler it can cause a lot of harm to the pump etc.

    So it's a lesson learned about not letting the tank run too low in future.

    He also reckoned the motor was on it's last legs. So he took the whole burner off and brought it home, got a different burner and rebuilt it with the new parts from my one. And had it back, installed and running in an hour. Which I was very impressed with.

    I learned a lot about the inner workings of an oil boiler this past few days.

    Thanks for the help and tips here guys.


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    #72
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    Arsenium wrote: »
    Sorry Jim. I thought when I had posted earlier that the replacement pump was needed that was enough.

    He disconnected the fuel line and drained some kerosene out, there was some awful looking stuff at the start of the flow of kerosene and he said this stuff was killing the pump. And it apparently is a very common issue when tanks are allowed to run low. Especially if people tilt the tank or rock it to get the last little drop out of it (which I didnt do btw). Apparently any moisture in the tank settles at the bottom of the tank and if this gets sucked down into the boiler it can cause a lot of harm to the pump etc.

    So it's a lesson learned about not letting the tank run too low in future.

    He also reckoned the motor was on it's last legs. So he took the whole burner off and brought it home, got a different burner and rebuilt it with the new parts from my one. And had it back, installed and running in an hour. Which I was very impressed with.

    I learned a lot about the inner workings of an oil boiler this past few days.

    Thanks for the help and tips here guys.

    sorry arsenium I meant you came back and let us know the outcome apologies if you thought I was referring to you

    good to hear your up and running

    and the source of your problem resolved


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    #73
    narmst
    Registered Users Posts: 73 ✭✭narmst


    So much like the older thread I'm having an issue with my firebird.

    My setup is simple. Firebird with on/off switch. No thermostats in house.

    Have fuel. Firebird fires up fine. Burns well for 30min to an hour. Rads nice and hot. No issues. Steam coming out of the (is it) silver flu.
    All good.

    After burning hot for this time it just runs continuously but doesn't fire up.
    When I say runs I mean I can hear what I think is the pump and I can I can hear and feel the air coming out of the (is it) silver flu at the side but there's no steam and heat like there is when it's firing.
    No lockout or no lock out light.

    It will do this forever.

    If I then turn it off for an hour I can turn it back on and again it will be fine for another 30min or an hour. Hot as before. No lockout. No problem.
    Then after a time it's just running but no burn.

    I don't believe its the light sensor as it is firing fine when it does fire. But anyway I took it out and gave it a clean just in case.

    Any thoughts before I call someone and pay for a fix?


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    #74
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,221 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    In this order; faulty coil, photo cell or control box.

    Sounds like a coil from symptoms, but experience would make me try cell first, in spite of symptoms.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #75
    narmst
    Registered Users Posts: 73 ✭✭narmst


    Wearb wrote: »
    In this order; faulty coil, photo cell or control box.

    Sounds like a coil from symptoms, but experience would make me try cell first, in spite of symptoms.

    Firstly have to say that I don't have a clue what I'm talking about so anything I write is to taken with a pinch of salt - not claiming to know anything - that said ..

    Suspect it isn't the photo cell as the boiler will consistently come on and work for ages if left unplugged first for an hour. Unless the photo cell is intermittently failing (and then never failing in the first 30-60 min) it can't be that I think. If it was faulty it would never fire. If it was intermittent it would not fire fine for and consistently fire fine for the first burn.


    Faulty coil - will a faulty coil allow a burn for first 30-60 min then fail until you turn it off for an hour? Is that something I can swap out myself to test or is it a pro job?

    Control box - reading the thread earlier (or somewhere else) someone suggested swapping out a control box - not sure again if that is a possible job for me or a pro - and that this was the only way to test if the control box itself is faulty .. basically swap out with a working one.


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    #76
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,221 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    You would probably be better off getting a service guy to fix it. Otherwise you may be buying parts that are not needed.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #77
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,952 ✭✭✭jimf


    most likely photocell if its an rdb burner they can fail intermittent like this at the start

    could also be the coil but riello coils are nearly bomb proof

    but without having a way to check these I agree with wearb you could be buying parts not needed any good service guy will have all these parts in his van so should not be a major issue to sort


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