The Defender thread

Plus gas if you can find some is a very good penetrating oil to help remove. The spline inte rear wiper if really fine yours just looks a little corroded as Sean said. I used copper slip when I put mine back on my V8. My current 90 is without a wiper until the fella sorts the wiring for me. It's only been 3 years. Lol.

I knew you would understand what I meant
The park switch on your wiper motor is gone, its a little plastic part on the top and a bit to the side of the motor about the size of a matchbox.
It will cost 10 or 12 euro for one if I remember right and as you say now is the time it fix it while its already striped.
Good luck.

Just a quick update on a previous post. I finally got around to doing something about the three amigos and my dodgy ABS modulator. I had isolated the problem as a sticking pump. The motor has an oscillating shaft and where that enters the valve/piston block there is (supposed to be) a ball bearing. Mine was in bits and rusted. Somehow water got in there. Hooked the motor to a power supply it was running fine. So for the want of a bearing worth pennies an ABS modulator that costs a couple of grand has to be scrapped.
Good news is I got a unit from an 03 Discovery and it's a straight swap; no plumbing or wiring changes. I took a punt that as the ABS ECU controls which wheel brakes and when, I should follow the wheel pattern on the outlet ports from the old Defender unit, ignoring the wheel labels on the replacement. The ports on the Discovery control different wheels to the Defender.

All sorted. NCT here I come.

Looked at a CSW recently with rust wash running out the rivets on the rear quarters. There us one on donedeal at the minute with the same ailment. Does this mean the body capping are shot? It was hard to pinpoint a source!

You can thank the bean counters at LR for stopping galvanising the body cappings several years ago. It is a common problem but solvable with a bit of effort. You can use s/h or buy new galved cappings and swap them by undoing loads of bolts and jacking the roof up.

Look carefully at the doors on a SW especially the second row ones, they rot for fun. My 00 CSW needs 4 new doors or extensive welding. Also the B and C pillar frames and the body crossmember unique to SWs are also prone to tin worm.

Welcome to the club. I presume you know what you're getting yourself into.

Truck cab is what you got, with a rigid canopy. What you want is a Hard Top. You probably need a whole new roof, front and back. I don't think you can just put a hard top rear section onto a truck cab. Could be wrong.

Hi and welcome.

As banjolin says, you need a hardtop roof and sides and a rear door, simple nut and bolt job. If you do fb, the Land Rover Owners Ireland group hold auctions for parts, probably get one that way.

It'll look good but matt will mark very easily. It will cover a multitude of sins though unlike a gloss finish which shows every imperfection!!

How are the doors for tin worm the bottoms of the doors on my 99 110 are only held together with paint and the door cards.
The DOE ( or what ever its called now ) is next month and I'm not looking forward to it .

Say nothing. To anyone. You won't face any more scrutiny than you do now. Private tax is pushing on for 1100. Getting something taxed commercially for the first time is where most come a cropper. If you have it already don't be so quick to give it up. What's a legit business anyway? Buy some hens and get a flock number if it puts your mind at ease. Someone will insure it any which way, apart from those **** who said they will no longer insure cars over ten years old.

Just my humble opinion, of course. Don't quote me on any of the above.

i have an ifor williams canopy and a front bullbar for a defender if anyone has any interest.

Apart from the chequer plate (why, oh why?) that looks like an XS model which will have ABS/ traction etc. and that could be good or bad depending on your point of view, but 2005 XS 90s go for between £13k and £15k sterling, which when you consider they cost about 26k new ten years ago takes some beating. They hold their value like crazy.

Given the value of the pound against the euro you should seriously consider selling it in the UK. As Sean says clean TD5s are in big demand. It really doesn't make sense to sell them here as you are unlikely to realise the true value in what is a totally different market.

maccored wrote: »

anyone have any handy youtube links or tutorials in removing the headliner in a 2001 110?

aha! not needed. Take out the small clips by the doors, the rearview mirror, interior light fixture and the visors and out it pops. 10 euro for some glue and 45 mins in time = redone header. thankfully mine only has the front cab bit so it was handy.

My own (admittedly limited) experience would be that the motor can fail, but if its broke nothing moves. I have had to replace one. You probably know this but the motor pushes a threaded rod from left to right, to and fro, which has teeth that engage a gear/cog on each wiper. This to and fro action rotates the gear/cog and turns the wiper. If the motor is buggered it stops both wipers.

I also had a problem where the drivers side wiper was doing the fandango but the other was fine. I had to replace the wiper box assembly. What I noticed was that while the replacement had a metal gear the original was plastic. It probably just wears out.

If you have replaced the wheel boxes on both sides then the problem most likely must be a relay or the motor assembly. If a relay fails I would have thought it was an on or off issue. That leaves the motor assembly, which includes the threaded rod. Have you checked the rod for wear and tear where it engages the wiper gear, or observed the motor in action with the dash side panel off? If the threaded rod itself is fine, is the motor action correct? You could also check if the contact/clearance between the threaded rod and the cogs is correct and not slipping.

Its a fairly simple mechanism. Its just such a huge pig of a job to remove the dash to access it.

Insurance if you have windscreen cover and I think all policies do now.
It won't effect your premium next year either so it makes
No sense to pay for the glass and repair it yourself .