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17-04-2014, 20:55   #976
ABajaninCork
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Yeah - I've got the art of winding wool down pat! Instead of prevailing on my poor long-suffering hubby to hold the wool whilst I wind, I now sling the skein over two kitchen chair backs and work away...

I got a skein of Fyberspates lace weight wool a few weeks ago, in the sale. That skein is 1km long! And took me almost 1.5 hours to wind the wretched thing. Just as well I got only the one skein!!
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17-04-2014, 22:49   #977
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Originally Posted by wmpdd3 View Post
I just finished my last project on Saturday. idle hands. !

I have a few sewing things on the go though

thinking about a knitted summer dress with a crocheted bodice.

need to find a cotton mix 4 ply that's not to expensive. best so for is 3.50 for 100g.
The dress sounds fab. I would love to see a pic when you finish it please.
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18-04-2014, 09:14   #978
Gatica
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Originally Posted by ABajaninCork View Post
Wool is supplied in skeins when the yarn is either very light or something like silk/linen.
Many places use the word skein to describe a unit of yarn being sold whether a ball or twisted hank. I wouldn't rely on the term for defining the quantity being sold or the form in comes in. You're better off looking up by manufacturer.
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18-04-2014, 09:18   #979
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I really have to get back to taking pics of the stuff I make. it's so annoying when you go to make something again and you can't remember how you did it.

all I ask when I make garments for people it's a pic of the wearing in, but most forget.....
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18-04-2014, 09:35   #980
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Many places use the word skein to describe a unit of yarn being sold whether a ball or twisted hank. I wouldn't rely on the term for defining the quantity being sold or the form in comes in. You're better off looking up by manufacturer.
I don't rely on that, and look at the meterage of the wool instead to work out what I need. When the wool turns up, I can then either use straight away if it's a ball, or have to wind the hanks.

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I really have to get back to taking pics of the stuff I make. it's so annoying when you go to make something again and you can't remember how you did it.

all I ask when I make garments for people it's a pic of the wearing in, but most forget.....
I don't take pictures of the pieces I make for myself. But I do if I'm making for others. Just as well, really. I made a baby blanket for my nephew and had his name & DoB embroidered on a patch which I then sewed on the blanket. It got lost in the post! But I did take a picture before sending.
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18-04-2014, 10:32   #981
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I made a baby blanket for my nephew and had his name & DoB embroidered on a patch which I then sewed on the blanket. It got lost in the post! But I did take a picture before sending.
oh, how awful! of all things to lose by post, it'll always be something irreplaceable... Did it take you long to make it?
My SIL was making a baby blanket before their first child over 2 years ago, she's only got around to doing the border now as they're expecting their second. I suppose they had heir hands full the rest of the time.
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18-04-2014, 10:40   #982
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No, fortunately it was a fluffy blanket which was only stocking st in Aran weight. But it was a real nuisance! He has another blanket I made and brought over to London before he was born, so he has something from his auntie!
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18-04-2014, 13:27   #983
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Here's what I found about the yarn:
http://www.royalyarns.com/Caron-Natu...rn_c_5310.html

Looks like they use the less-standard 85g... So you're better off going with yardage metrics for your needs.
So for small size you'd need 4*251 = 1004 yards. If you find an equivalent weight yarn, just get enough to give you that yardage and air on the "more" side, so you don't run out.

PS:
Similar yarn here, http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/spa-shawl-top, they're saying it's sports weight 5ply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ABajaninCork View Post
I reckon either lace or 4ply would be the weight.

Wool is supplied in skeins when the yarn is either very light or something like silk/linen. You'll have to wind it into balls before you work with it. Otherwise, you'll be in for a world of pain with tangles!
Thanks a million! As it happens I have a 1kg skein of 4ply wool that my dad got for €5 in a charity shop last year that I think would work well for this top. I have a lot of crochet practice to do first though as the top is very ambitious for my crochet skills. It's nice to have a project though. I hurt my elbow a few months back and knitting makes it feel worse but it's ok with crochet.
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18-04-2014, 13:29   #984
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I think your pattern gives a gauge, so as long as you can make a sample using chosen yarn and a hook you should be able to measure it across... if it's too small, use a bigger hook and vice versa...
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19-04-2014, 22:55   #985
That_Girl_ Is_ A_Cowboy
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I did a little bit of knitting when I was in primary school and it was something I liked. Last year I took a notion to take up knitting and the little I learned in school came back to me. I'm learning so much with a large book on knitting that I picked up from DK. I learned a little how to read patterns from that book and to date I worked on some knitting. At first I did straight pieces then I moved onto doing other bits. I knitted a cap, a dress, a skirt, and headband for a doll and I was very happy with the finished pieces. I love wandering around shops that sell knitting supplies looking at all the wool and yarn and bought some nice yarn for the doll clothes.

Currently I'm working on a few different pieces including a batch of baby caps in some beautiful baby bamboo yarn.

I'm knitting a dress for a doll and this evening and I noticed the needles I was using were two different sizes. One needle a 3 1/4 and the other a 3 3/4. The pattern requires me to knit the dress in two pieces - front and back and then seam them up later on. One side is going to have about 15 rows done with two different needles. Will this have much of an effect when it comes to seaming it up? I don't really want to go back and do it again.
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20-04-2014, 13:45   #986
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hi, This may be too late,, but I am just wondering if anyone has seen the Crochet Easy World Craft book (Dorling Kindersley) at their local Aldi store recently, and if so, do you think the shop still has it left? I don’t usually go to Aldi so I missed these books and just managed to get the Classic Knits book at Aldi on Dublin road Limk, but they were out of the crochet book. I have since tried the other Limerick Aldi as well as in Nenagh and Thurles, and my sister tried Tipperary and Mitchelstown, no luck.

If anyone thinks they could be so good as to buy a copy for me and then post it to me, please let me know, I can pay you In Advance for the book and the postage by Paypal/other payment means promptly.

Alternatively, if anyone has a copy of the book and wants to sell it, let me know!
regards
d

Last edited by duckling10; 20-04-2014 at 15:31.
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20-04-2014, 14:40   #987
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I'd say for a doll's dress it will be fine,one row will be taller then the one before it, thats all.

Do you have a link to the DK book, I haven't a clue how to red patterns, I just wing it!

I costed a dress out of 100% cotton @ €3.95 for a 50g ball, looking at €70 min. (need about 800g or 2400 m.)

In 50% cotton, looking at €2.00 per 50g ball, so €about €40.

And while that's well worth it for a dress, I don't have the money, so I'm on the search for a white 1kg cone of Dk or thicker for > €40..... I should have bought out of season last year when I saw all the bargains!

Oh and I taught my nieces to finger knit yesterday( 9 and 7), I've never seen them so quite.

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20-04-2014, 15:09   #988
duckling10
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dolls dress

Quote: I noticed the needles I was using were two different sizes. One needle a 3 1/4 and the other a 3 3/4. The pattern requires me to knit the dress in two pieces - front and back and then seam them up later on. One side is going to have about 15 rows done with two different needles.

it's a doll's dress, so it won't be very big, I imagine, but the side knitted with the not-matching needles might just be a tiny bit bigger/longer than the second side, presuming you use matching needles on the second side.
It may or may not be noticeable, depending on your knitting tension, thickness of wool, etc...
If you don't want to undo the 15 rows you ave already knit, would it be possible I wonder to use the same not-matching needles on the first 15 rows of the other side? just a thought...
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Yesterday, 11:32   #989
Gatica
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Originally Posted by That_Girl_ Is_ A_Cowboy View Post
I learned a little how to read patterns from that book and to date I worked on some knitting. At first I did straight pieces then I moved onto doing other bits. I knitted a cap, a dress, a skirt, and headband for a doll and I was very happy with the finished pieces. I love wandering around shops that sell knitting supplies looking at all the wool and yarn and bought some nice yarn for the doll clothes.

Currently I'm working on a few different pieces including a batch of baby caps in some beautiful baby bamboo yarn.
Oh phew, I started reading your sentence there about knitting a cap, a dress and a skirt and I thought wow, I must be a real slow starter if you've gone on to such huge projects so soon! I finished reading it though, and see that it's for a doll. Mean as it is, it made me feel a little better
I do hope you go on to make awesome big project though!
It's a great idea to knit for a doll. I tried knitting for a barbie when I was 10, I did a few rows and my mum had to finish it cos it took me almost a year to just do those.
If it's a project that's close to your heart and you want it perfect, I'd just hold my breath and rip up the rows... Otherwise, duckling10's suggestion to do the other side in same way sounds like a plan.

I've had to rip up chunks of a number of projects, actually I think all of them, at least once before completing... a finished beret back to about 30% a couple of times because the beret width didn't turn out to be enough. A ribbed hat because it wasn't wide enough for the head, my swatch was stockinette and I counted stitched based on that, but since the hat was ribbed the stitch count would've been higher than in the swatch. Completed cardigan back ripped back down to the arm-holes because I wanted a long cardigan and stretching it width-wise shortened it. a "completed" crocheted doily because I misread the pattern and missed 2 rows quite early on, so it curled up a bit instead of laying flat. a cable hat completed and ripped back half way twice because it was too short, then too long as it needed to be in multiples of the cable pattern...
It's hard to rip up work especially as new knitters we're a bit/a lot slower than pros. However, I've always been glad I did it as that one mistake that I'd let slide would've always bugged me.

Knitting a swirl baby hat at the moment, and forgot to do the cable switch on one of the swirls early on, so only noticed the mistake about 9 rows later. The stitch count between the swirls then was off, so just ripped back to the mistake round, recounted the stitches and back knitting it again.
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Yesterday, 12:36   #990
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This is a complicated one but what do you guys do if you have to decrease stitches when there's a detailed pattern?

I'm knitting an Aran jumper and the pattern calls for me to decrease each side by twelve stitches. This will cut into the shell-like pattern that's at the bottom of this picture.

The pattern for that section is simple enough - it's seven rows of p2, k2, p4, k2, p2 alternated with k2, p2, k4, p2, k2. On the eighth row, it's p2, sl2 F, p2, y.o.n, k2 together from cable needle, sl2 B, k2 together from cable needle, y.r.n, p2

When I have the twelve stitches decreased, there'll only be four stitches left of the pattern.

I don't know if I should ignore the pattern completely and just do reverse stocking-stitch - it seems like the simplest way but it means the shells would just disappear suddenly. But if I continue the pattern as written, I have no stitches left to put in front or behind the cable needle.

Does that make sense to anyone?
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