STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

derkav · 25-10-2011 4:57pm

Hi everyone,
Two questions for you.

I am looking at installing a stove in my dining room. The room is open plan to the kitchen and large enough so I am Putting in a 12Kw non boiler stove. I have picked this one >>> http://www.northsouthsales.com/12kw-multifuel-stove-prod-96.html . Anyone know this stove or if they are any good? I got a price off these guys of €1880 delivered including my hearth 3'x3' well its a square with a corner missing so (3' x3' x2' x 2') if that makes any sense, granite and all my flue pipes.

My next question is cost of flue. I have been ringing around to try to get the best price for the flue but I cant seem to get it below €900 nearly twice the cost of the stove :eek:.

the list of flue parts i need is as follows.

1 x rain cap 2 x 1mtr twin wall 3 x 1/2 mtr twin. 1x 45 deg tpiece with cap twin wall, 2x 45 deg twin angle 1 x single_ twin adapter, 1 x 45deg single angle,1x .25 mtr single wall, 1x 1 mtr single wall, 3x adjustable wall mount brackets. These are all 6" btw.

Do you know of anywhere I could get a better price?

Thanks for your help

D

avfc1874 · 25-10-2011 8:51pm

hi does anyone know where we can get the stratford tf90b,there was a place in carlow but i can't get in touch with them, we're in offaly thanks

Reyman · 25-10-2011 8:52pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

If you are only ever interested in a stove for heating hot water then buy one with a clip in stainless steel boiler and a direct hot cylinder.

If you want to run rads as well then a stove with a wraparound boiler in steel will be fine so long as the hot water cylinder is indirect (with coil)

With regards to built in and clip in boilers. The majority of built in boilers are made of steel and so would be unsuitable for a direct system.
The clip in boiler is smaller and can be bought in either steel or stainless steel and is sized for heating the hot water cylinder only. The latter is what you want.

If you only want hot water buy a 3kw clip in stainless steel boiler.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks stovefan for all your help - it's made a real difference! I'll keep you all posted on how I do!

Stove Fan · 25-10-2011 9:31pm

derkav wrote: »

Hi everyone,
Two questions for you.

I am looking at installing a stove in my dining room. The room is open plan to the kitchen and large enough so I am Putting in a 12Kw non boiler stove. I have picked this one >>> http://www.northsouthsales.com/12kw-multifuel-stove-prod-96.html . Anyone know this stove or if they are any good? I got a price off these guys of €1880 delivered including my hearth 3'x3' well its a square with a corner missing so (3' x3' x2' x 2') if that makes any sense, granite and all my flue pipes.

My next question is cost of flue. I have been ringing around to try to get the best price for the flue but I cant seem to get it below €900 nearly twice the cost of the stove :eek:.

the list of flue parts i need is as follows.

1 x rain cap 2 x 1mtr twin wall 3 x 1/2 mtr twin. 1x 45 deg tpiece with cap twin wall, 2x 45 deg twin angle 1 x single_ twin adapter, 1 x 45deg single angle,1x .25 mtr single wall, 1x 1 mtr single wall, 3x adjustable wall mount brackets. These are all 6" btw.

Do you know of anywhere I could get a better price?

Thanks for your help

D

Hi:) The stove you are interested in is an imported stove from China that is sold under various names. One being the fogo premier. There are a few happy reviews on one stove sellers site. Thats if they are genuine reviews? Google search fogo premier and they were happy with it. If you can pay more it would be better to buy a known brand. Try hunter or villager stoves. Are you sure you need such a big stove?
Unfortunately the twin wall flue pipes and fittings are expensive:(

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 25-10-2011 9:39pm

avfc1874 wrote: »

hi does anyone know where we can get the stratford tf90b,there was a place in carlow but i can't get in touch with them, we're in offaly thanks

Hi:) Dont know any of these suppliers but came up on a google.ie search.

http://www.google.ie/#q=stratfordTF90B&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=lnt&tbs=ctr:countryIE&cr=countryIE&sa=X&ei=Sh2nTuXDDcSxhAf7r8WTDg&sqi=2&ved=0CA8QpwUoAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=9441cf14c35058af&biw=1441&bih=619

It would be great if you could get a recommended supplier:)

Stove Fan:)

derkav · 25-10-2011 9:59pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

derkav wrote: »

Hi everyone,
Two questions for you.

I am looking at installing a stove in my dining room. The room is open plan to the kitchen and large enough so I am Putting in a 12Kw non boiler stove. I have picked this one >>> http://www.northsouthsales.com/12kw-multifuel-stove-prod-96.html . Anyone know this stove or if they are any good? I got a price off these guys of €1880 delivered including my hearth 3'x3' well its a square with a corner missing so (3' x3' x2' x 2') if that makes any sense, granite and all my flue pipes.

My next question is cost of flue. I have been ringing around to try to get the best price for the flue but I cant seem to get it below €900 nearly twice the cost of the stove :eek:.

the list of flue parts i need is as follows.

1 x rain cap 2 x 1mtr twin wall 3 x 1/2 mtr twin. 1x 45 deg tpiece with cap twin wall, 2x 45 deg twin angle 1 x single_ twin adapter, 1 x 45deg single angle,1x .25 mtr single wall, 1x 1 mtr single wall, 3x adjustable wall mount brackets. These are all 6" btw.

Do you know of anywhere I could get a better price?

Thanks for your help

D

Hi:) The stove you are interested in is an imported stove from China that is sold under various names. One being the fogo premier. There are a few happy reviews on one stove sellers site. Thats if they are genuine reviews? Google search fogo premier and they were happy with it. If you can pay more it would be better to buy a known brand. Try hunter or villager stoves. Are you sure you need such a big stove?
Unfortunately the twin wall flue pipes and fittings are expensive:(

Stove Fan:)

Hi stove fan. thanks fir your reply. my dining room and kitchen are25foot x 13foot. and we are hoping that it will also heat the rest of the house by leaving the doors to the hall. we are on a fairly tight budget too about 2000 all in. we just got an insert stove fitted in the fireplace and that has been great so warm and cuts out the draft from chimney too.

do you think im daft going for a 12kw stove for this size area? What brands would you recommend? We had also looked at a different one but i cant remember the brand.

Thanks again.

Stove Fan · 25-10-2011 10:35pm

derkav wrote: »

Hi stove fan. thanks fir your reply. my dining room and kitchen are25foot x 13foot. and we are hoping that it will also heat the rest of the house by leaving the doors to the hall. we are on a fairly tight budget too about 2000 all in. we just got an insert stove fitted in the fireplace and that has been great so warm and cuts out the draft from chimney too.

do you think im daft going for a 12kw stove for this size area? What brands would you recommend? We had also looked at a different one but i cant remember the brand.

Thanks again.

Hi From this site depending on insulation levels your looking at 3.5kw to 7kw for this sized room.
http://www.stanleystoves.com/calculator I personally wouldn't fit anything over 7-8kw even if the insulation is non existant. We have an 8kw boiler stove in a room 5.7m by 6.2m X 2.7m and it's great. The room requires about 5kw to heat it.. The room is a new extension. The stove is a villager berkley multifuel.

Have a look at hunter stoves and villager stoves.

Stove Fan:)

derkav · 26-10-2011 11:51am

Hi Stove fan,

Ok Ive gone away from that fogo thingey and I have got a good price for an 8kw heat design, fire warm stove. >>> http://www.firewarm.ie/freestanding_stove There Irish and running for 12 years, so no problem to get any parts, ( apparently). So I have got stove 4 skamolex panels granite hearth and all my flue's and materials required for fitting for €1800.

Thanks for your advice now all I have to do is get it fitted.

guinness queen · 27-10-2011 1:31am

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi:) Dont know any of these suppliers but came up on a google.ie search.

http://www.google.ie/#q=stratfordTF90B&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=lnt&tbs=ctr:countryIE&cr=countryIE&sa=X&ei=Sh2nTuXDDcSxhAf7r8WTDg&sqi=2&ved=0CA8QpwUoAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=9441cf14c35058af&biw=1441&bih=619

It would be great if you could get a recommended supplier:)

Stove Fan:)

Guinness queen here.
You can find the shop you are looking for in the Yellow Pages. Go to Stoves Cant remember name, they are very helpful especially the young lady. the next road to the car test centre you have to look carefully down by the side of a garage. Husquavarna and peugeot car sales is opposite. If I can find this site again I will give u the exact name tomorrow.

guinness queen · 27-10-2011 2:08am

Dear Stove Fan,
Well I have finally made a decision re my stove, having taken your advice about the high capacity of previous ones mentioned. I did check out the Franco Belge and it got a few bad reviews on what stove .com. I am now on to the Dovre 425 ? or Dovre 500.
I think they are 7 and 8 KW resp. I like them as they seem to be the correct value for my very cold room 19x15x8ft thick cold stone walls. Anthracite will be my fuel, also some wood/turf to a much lesser degree. Also want to keep it in overnight. Would like it to heat hallway by leaving door open. Does this seem ok output to you. I also love the Chesney but out of my price range.
I have a Bronpi wood burning stove, sold to me by a Kilkenny outfit as multi fuel. I really wanted it as a coal burner. Will change it if I can. So u see why I am anxious, dont wnt to be cheated a second time. I am going to buy from the stove shop in Carlow. They are to date most helpful with a huge variety of stoves. Pensioners need protection. Thanks in anticipation.

Solid Fuel · 27-10-2011 12:58pm

Hi
Question on how best to design a Primary circuit and avoid back flow when fire not lit and oil operating into a duel copper cylinder causing stove coil in tank to heat and possible start back-flow in primary circuit. Pls see attached for layout.

Feel free to throw in any other ideas as stove is currently in the throws of being put into single story house, piping is up next.

hot to trot · 27-10-2011 5:01pm

I have been shopping since August and feel like I am going around in circles after initial misleading advice.
I have a large spacious house to heat with poor insulation so far. *( getting double glazing next week). I want a large boiler capacity to help the central heating as much as possible. Room where it will be is ajoining kitchen and will eventually knock down connecting wall.

There are thousands of stoves. Have been suggested by one shop
Parkray consort15B
Charnwood 16B
Harmony 3B.

Locals shop seems to sell a lot of Stanley. What are the most important factors to choose apart from the kw output/

Dont know which to get as regards cast iron v steel ,
single v double doors

Also people seem to be spending huge amonuts of money on coal ( 500-750 quid for months of use. To me this would seem almost as much as a tank of oil??
Am getting frustrated and annnoyed at this point.
HELLLLLLLLPPPPPPP!!!!!

muscleshirt · 27-10-2011 5:18pm

looking for a little advice...i have got a back boiler in my sitting room fireplace which i disconnected years back when i got the oil...i am now considering an insert stove..
do i have to remove the back boiler or can i reconnect and work it with the stove

Johnnyq79 · 27-10-2011 8:35pm

Hey guys,
all your information and recommendations are great.
I am thinking of changing my open fireplace to a solid fuel stove. I am trying to find some pictures of rooms where people have done this already(to see the size of the stove v the fireplace, the base of the stove v the old hearth, etc)
Do people have these type of pictures that they can show off to me, would love to see them. this is my fireplace as it is.(see attached)
thanks,
johnny

Stove Fan · 27-10-2011 10:37pm

guinness queen wrote: »

Dear Stove Fan,
Well I have finally made a decision re my stove, having taken your advice about the high capacity of previous ones mentioned. I did check out the Franco Belge and it got a few bad reviews on what stove .com. I am now on to the Dovre 425 ? or Dovre 500.
I think they are 7 and 8 KW resp. I like them as they seem to be the correct value for my very cold room 19x15x8ft thick cold stone walls. Anthracite will be my fuel, also some wood/turf to a much lesser degree. Also want to keep it in overnight. Would like it to heat hallway by leaving door open. Does this seem ok output to you. I also love the Chesney but out of my price range.
I have a Bronpi wood burning stove, sold to me by a Kilkenny outfit as multi fuel. I really wanted it as a coal burner. Will change it if I can. So u see why I am anxious, dont wnt to be cheated a second time. I am going to buy from the stove shop in Carlow. They are to date most helpful with a huge variety of stoves. Pensioners need protection. Thanks in anticipation.

I honestly think you should be roasting with either stove for your room size:D Dove stoves do seem to have a good view of the fire and good reviews. Chesney seems to be a good brand and very well liked but pricey.

Keep warm:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 27-10-2011 11:00pm

Solid Fuel wrote: »

Hi
Question on how best to design a Primary circuit and avoid back flow when fire not lit and oil operating into a duel copper cylinder causing stove coil in tank to heat and possible start back-flow in primary circuit. Pls see attached for layout.

Feel free to throw in any other ideas as stove is currently in the throws of being put into single story house, piping is up next.

Hi:) You really need a plumber who is familiar with installing boiler stoves with other boilers. The plumber really needs to see your plumbing layout and can advice and plumb it all in safely.

In your diagram I wouldn't have the gravity flow to cylinder going into the loft and then down to cylinder. It may not work effectively. It would be better to fit the new twin coil cylinder as near the stove as possible as it's the installation of the stove that needs to be the most safe as it has no control once lit. The cylinder wants to be heated by gravity circulation and fitted raised up in a cupboard to side of the stove or in aother room behind. The loft above the stove may be an option. The oil boiler could be anywhere really in the house etc as this has proper controls. Off or on.

Your plumber will design a safe system.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 27-10-2011 11:21pm

hot to trot wrote: »

I have been shopping since August and feel like I am going around in circles after initial misleading advice.
I have a large spacious house to heat with poor insulation so far. *( getting double glazing next week). I want a large boiler capacity to help the central heating as much as possible. Room where it will be is ajoining kitchen and will eventually knock down connecting wall.

There are thousands of stoves. Have been suggested by one shop
Parkray consort15B
Charnwood 16B
Harmony 3B.

Locals shop seems to sell a lot of Stanley. What are the most important factors to choose apart from the kw output/

Dont know which to get as regards cast iron v steel ,
single v double doors

Also people seem to be spending huge amonuts of money on coal ( 500-750 quid for months of use. To me this would seem almost as much as a tank of oil??
Am getting frustrated and annnoyed at this point.
HELLLLLLLLPPPPPPP!!!!!

Hi:) The first things we need to establish is how many rads are you wanting to heat and what are the measurements of each and whether they are doubles or single radiators? We need this information to find out what KW requirements you need in a stoves boiler to heat your rads.
What size is the room the stove is going to be installed in? You say you are going to enlarge the room? What would the room now measure?

Always go for the best stove for your budget:) Always buy a well known quality brand. Single door is more airtight and gives a greater view of the fire. The glass costs more especially if it's curved. Cast iron or steel see what I wrote on page one choosing a stove.

I don't exactly know the current cost of oil but if it's 0.90c a litre then 1,000 litres would cost 900 euro:eek:

If they are spending over 500-750 on coal for a few months heating then they must live in a mansion or have a seriously inefficient or badly installed stove/fire:cool:

We used 50 40kg bags of housecoal in our boiler stove last winter heating our detatched extended 2 bed bungalow with reasonable insulation. We started lighting our stove in September until mid April. We had it lit most days for 13 hours a day and used the 50 bags over that time. 650 euros worth. We like the whole house around 20-24 degrees:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 27-10-2011 11:27pm

muscleshirt wrote: »

looking for a little advice...i have got a back boiler in my sitting room fireplace which i disconnected years back when i got the oil...i am now considering an insert stove..
do i have to remove the back boiler or can i reconnect and work it with the stove

You would have to remove the back boiler and buy an inset boiler stove. The boiler that was disconnected was for an open fire.

Stove Fan:)

guinness queen · 27-10-2011 11:58pm

dear Stove Fan,
Thanks again, I hate to labour the point but are you saying that the output of 7kw dovre 500 stove is still too large for my room? Have you any idea what the temperature would be at full blast?
I had hoped that it will also heat the small porch area. I really am willing to take your advice. But I will go into a decline if I have to start my search all over again. I know Dovre have a smaller one also, cant remember the output.
I promise this will be my last time of asking!!!
Incidntally, the shop in Carlow, that was requested is called the Flame Fire Centre.
059 9137694, O'Brien Road (rear of Maxol Garage. Carlow
I was only admiring the Chesney, I could not buy one.

muscleshirt · 28-10-2011 10:32am

Stove Fan wrote: »

You would have to remove the back boiler and buy an inset boiler stove. The boiler that was disconnected was for an open fire.

Stove Fan:)

thanks for info...mulberry stoker front for fireplaces with existing back boilers would this be a good alternative..

Stove Fan · 28-10-2011 4:14pm

guinness queen wrote: »

dear Stove Fan,
Thanks again, I hate to labour the point but are you saying that the output of 7kw dovre 500 stove is still too large for my room? Have you any idea what the temperature would be at full blast?
I had hoped that it will also heat the small porch area. I really am willing to take your advice. But I will go into a decline if I have to start my search all over again. I know Dovre have a smaller one also, cant remember the output.
I promise this will be my last time of asking!!!
Incidntally, the shop in Carlow, that was requested is called the Flame Fire Centre.
059 9137694, O'Brien Road (rear of Maxol Garage. Carlow
I was only admiring the Chesney, I could not buy one.

The 7kw Dovre will be more than adequate for your room and should suit it perfectly:). It should warm up other areas of the house too:D

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 28-10-2011 4:19pm

muscleshirt wrote: »

thanks for info...mulberry stoker front for fireplaces with existing back boilers would this be a good alternative..

Hi do mulberry do such a thing, just a door to convert the open fire to a stove to use the existing back boiler? I would imagine if you wanted a boiler inset fire it would have to be the mulberry stoker inset boiler stove.

The old boiler removed and the new inset boiler stove installed?

Have you a link to the stoker front?

Stove Fan:)

guinness queen · 28-10-2011 11:29pm

Hi stove fan,
Many thanks for all your help, you are very patient.

best wishes gq

muscleshirt · 29-10-2011 12:10am

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi do mulberry do such a thing, just a door to convert the open fire to a stove to use the existing back boiler? I would imagine if you wanted a boiler inset fire it would have to be the mulberry stoker inset boiler stove.

The old boiler removed and the new inset boiler stove installed?

Have you a link to the stoker front?

Stove Fan:)

mulberry and boro do one would be great if they worked...what do you think?

http://www.mulberrystoves.com/news.html
http://www.borustoves.ie/doras.html

Stove Fan · 29-10-2011 12:52am

muscleshirt wrote: »

mulberry and boro do one would be great if they worked...what do you think?

http://www.mulberrystoves.com/news.html
http://www.borustoves.ie/doras.html

Looks very interesting:) May be worth a try? The only thing is there wouldn't be much radiated heat to the room as the glass would stop most. It would generate more heat to the boiler possibly though.

May work ok with the full sized steel back boiler. It's got to be an improvement than an open fire. At least it will be more controllable.

It's really anyones guess unless someone has tried one.

Stove Fan:)

Rain_Dog_Brian · 29-10-2011 2:03pm

Hi all,
Firstly, thanks to all the good advice given on these threads.
But, I can't seem to find answers to my problems on existing posts so hope direct questions will yield results:

I will have approx 150mm clearance (top and sides) around my proposed stove (small 5kW job) based on the dimensions of the ope prepared. Now, some of this is currently wooden supports/joists for the pink fireboard panels which have been put on the chimney breast.

I want to find a thin material/board to protect these combustibles.

In the Builder's Providers, and where I bought the stove, they are saying to use Tegral Hydropanel (which the poster says is "Fire Resistant" and the website says is "non-flammable"), and there are pictures of flames bouncing off the panel.

From diagram 8 of Part J, it appears no protection needed if combustible material >150mm....). Not sure if that's the full picture though as I understand 300m clearance needed from top of unit?

Is there a difference between non-Combustible materials and non-flammable materials?

Is the Hydropanel material sufficient protection (I can't find solid answers on the website)? Would even Scamalex (which is very expensive) be sufficient? Is fireboard (the pink panels) any use?

Grateful for any advice/ guidance.
Regs.

flugus · 29-10-2011 9:49pm

Hello everyone,

We have a 13 year old Aarrow SM90 which developed a very minor leak in the inside upper left corner about a year ago, which we managed to "fix". However the other day the leak started up again rather more strongly (roughly, a good big puddle in the space of a couple of hours), so we had to drain the system.

Are we correct in assuming that it's more or less impossible to mend something like this? Particularly as you can't see exactly where this leak is originating. Just want to ask for a few opinions before we have to dig into our pockets for a new stove.

Thanks for any help!

flugus

Stove Fan · 29-10-2011 9:54pm

flugus wrote: »

Hello everyone,

We have a 13 year old Aarrow SM90 which developed a very minor leak in the inside upper left corner about a year ago, which we managed to "fix". However the other day the leak started up again rather more strongly (roughly, a good big puddle in the space of a couple of hours), so we had to drain the system.

Are we correct in assuming that it's more or less impossible to mend something like this? Particularly as you can't see exactly where this leak is originating. Just want to ask for a few opinions before we have to dig into our pockets for a new stove.

Thanks for any help!

flugus

Yep time for a new stove:( If you can see where it's leaking you may be able to weld a patch over but the repair wouldn't last long and there is always a chance there is other weak spots too.

I personally wouldn't risk repairing it.

Stove Fan:)

fatherted1969 · 29-10-2011 10:12pm

Hi lads. I've been looking around for the last couple of weeks for an insert stove. I had an open eire in my sitting room and after last winter i swore i wouldn't waste that much money on feeding an open fire. I bought a Dimplex Wescott 4.3kw during the week and put it in today. I'm only using small amounts of turf as that's whats recomended and have to say its early days but it seems to be great so far. Its very simple to fit and for someone that's on a tight budget its a very reasonable price of €420. I should be able to recoup my money over a winter or 2 on solid fuel.

flugus · 29-10-2011 10:28pm

Thanks Stove Fan!

flugus

clonshanny · 30-10-2011 2:05pm

Hi Stove Fan,
My sister in law was thinking of getting a boiler stove to replace her gas heating which she has at the min. She is living in a 3 story house and her dhwc is on the third floor and not directly over where she would be putting the stove. She doesn't have a chimney in the house either so will have to use a twin wall outside stainless steel flu. Her plumber told her that because of where her dhw cylinder is located, it would cost an absolute fortune to plumb in a boiler stove and would be nearly as cheap to put an extension on her house. I thought that once the flow or return pipe had a sufficient pump on it, operated by a stat close to the stove, that it would be fine.

Any advice on this?? Do you think her plumber is trying to rip her off??

Stove Fan · 30-10-2011 2:26pm

clonshanny wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
My sister in law was thinking of getting a boiler stove to replace her gas heating which she has at the min. She is living in a 3 story house and her dhwc is on the third floor and not directly over where she would be putting the stove. She doesn't have a chimney in the house either so will have to use a twin wall outside stainless steel flu. Her plumber told her that because of where her dhw cylinder is located, it would cost an absolute fortune to plumb in a boiler stove and would be nearly as cheap to put an extension on her house. I thought that once the flow or return pipe had a sufficient pump on it, operated by a stat close to the stove, that it would be fine.

Any advice on this?? Do you think her plumber is trying to rip her off??

I couldn't really say as the plumber has seen the installation. You say you have gas heating? If this is mains gas this would be cheaper to run than a boiler stove burning wood or smokeless fuel. If it's LPG tank gas then yes the stove would be cheaper to run once the large outlay of the stove installation had paid for itself.

If it is mains gas I would only advice a non boiler stove as by the time you have bought the stove, flue it could still cost 5k. It would take many years to pay for the stove installation . Even then you would only save the plumbing costs.

With regards to plumbing the cylinder in on the 3rd floor yes a pump could be used controlled by a cylinder stat providing that if there was a powercut that several upstairs radiators would work on gravity circulation to dissipate the heat from the boiler stove.

Sorry to be so negative but I have to give you a realistic and balanced view.

Stove Fan:)

Surfn · 01-11-2011 10:14am

Stove Fan, can you boil a kettle or suacepan on say the stovax stockton 14hb, the stove i intend to buy, i know it doesnt have a hotplate but was wondering can you still do. if it cant be done what are the reasons for this, thanks in advance

creedp · 01-11-2011 11:00am

I have a stove ope in a new build which is 1500mm (H), 1430mm (w) and 690mm deep. When installed the stove will have approx 400mm free on each side and 280mm free at back. I was going to clad the inside of the ope with stone, the prefabricated kind that fits together like a jicsaw. I was wondering if this option would be ok from a heat point of view or should I consider using those skamolex boards to line the inside of ope?

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 12:36pm

Surfn wrote: »

Stove Fan, can you boil a kettle or suacepan on say the stovax stockton 14hb, the stove i intend to buy, i know it doesnt have a hotplate but was wondering can you still do. if it cant be done what are the reasons for this, thanks in advance

Hi:) I wouldnt think it would boil a kettle very well as usually the boiler covers the top as well as the back and sides and takes most of the heat from the fire.

You can only try but you may be dissapointed?

Certainly on our integral boilered stoves you wouldn't of been able to.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 12:42pm

creedp wrote: »

I have a stove ope in a new build which is 1500mm (H), 1430mm (w) and 690mm deep. When installed the stove will have approx 400mm free on each side and 280mm free at back. I was going to clad the inside of the ope with stone, the prefabricated kind that fits together like a jicsaw. I was wondering if this option would be ok from a heat point of view or should I consider using those skamolex boards to line the inside of ope?

I myself would line it out with skamolex or similar, as the more space there is around the stove the more air can get in to disperse the heat.

I dont know anything about the stone cladding but it sounds more fiddly and time consuming. So long as they are fireproof and the adhesive is heat proof it should be fine providing you still have 15cm either side of stove and 30cm above.

Stove Fan:)

creedp · 01-11-2011 12:59pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

I myself would line it out with skamolex or similar, as the more space there is around the stove the more air can get in to disperse the heat.

I dont know anything about the stone cladding but it sounds more fiddly and time consuming. So long as they are fireproof and the adhesive is heat proof it should be fine providing you still have 15cm either side of stove and 30cm above.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stovefan. I suppose the skamolex boards and stone clad is complete overkill especially from the point of view of cost. Unfortunately the stone has already been decided upon and bought for its looks so unless I now also purchase skamolex boards I will probably have to go ahead with the stone. I agree they are fiddly and time consuming to install but what price beauty?? That's the NB issue!!

When you say the more space around stove the more air that can get in to disperse heat does this mean that there is less need for the skamolex when the opening is larger, i.e. at least 15cm each side and 30cm above?

Thanks again

Rain_Dog_Brian · 01-11-2011 3:50pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

I myself would line it out with skamolex or similar, as the more space there is around the stove the more air can get in to disperse the heat.

Stove Fan:)

Hi Stove Fan,
Don't know if you noticed my post on Pg 12 re Stove clearance, but as no replies to date can I ask a slightly different question(s):

-If using Scamolex can I be within 10cm of Stove (sides and top)?
-Can I just nail/glue the Scamolex to an existing wooden stud/joist that is approx 150mm from stove?

Thanks,
Brian

CashMoney · 01-11-2011 4:05pm

Rain_Dog_Brian wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
Don't know if you noticed my post on Pg 12 re Stove clearance, but as no replies to date can I ask a slightly different question(s):

-If using Scamolex can I be within 10cm of Stove (sides and top)?
-Can I just nail/glue the Scamolex to an existing wooden stud/joist that is approx 150mm from stove?

Thanks,
Brian

I would say definitely not. Just because it is non-flammable, doesn't mean heat can't pass through it.

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 6:16pm

creedp wrote: »

Thanks Stovefan. I suppose the skamolex boards and stone clad is complete overkill especially from the point of view of cost. Unfortunately the stone has already been decided upon and bought for its looks so unless I now also purchase skamolex boards I will probably have to go ahead with the stone. I agree they are fiddly and time consuming to install but what price beauty?? That's the NB issue!!

When you say the more space around stove the more air that can get in to disperse heat does this mean that there is less need for the skamolex when the opening is larger, i.e. at least 15cm each side and 30cm above?

Thanks again

People generally use the scamolex when they have knocked out the fireplace opening to create a quick and neat smooth finish internally rather than render the inside which may crack with the heat.
If you are using stone cladding though I would stick the stone to the blocks or a render backround if the interior is uneven and not use scamolex.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 6:31pm

Rain_Dog_Brian wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
Don't know if you noticed my post on Pg 12 re Stove clearance, but as no replies to date can I ask a slightly different question(s):

-If using Scamolex can I be within 10cm of Stove (sides and top)?
-Can I just nail/glue the Scamolex to an existing wooden stud/joist that is approx 150mm from stove?

Thanks,
Brian

As said cladding anything combustible is a definate no-no.

You can glue or screw it down but not to anything flammable.

The stove installation instructions will have minimum clearance distances to wooden or combustible items. What stove is it? Any pic of the fireplace?

I gather this fire is being inset into an opening? Any timber studs or any other combustible materials would need to be removed. If you are building a fake chimney breast make it using a metal rail walling system and clad it in scamolex or vermiculite board. The opening size would still need to be the size below for building regs. If you opening is more narrow buy a smaller stove.

The opening width has to have clearance of 150mm either side of the stove and 300mm above for building regs, this only applies to openings that are masonry built or built using inflammable materials.

Stove Fan:)

CashMoney · 01-11-2011 7:22pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

As said cladding anything combustible is a definate no-no.

You can glue or screw it down but not to anything flammable.

The stove installation instructions will have minimum clearance distances to wooden or combustible items. What stove is it? Any pic of the fireplace?

I gather this fire is being inset into an opening? Any timber studs or any other combustible materials would need to be removed. If you are building a fake chimney breast make it using a metal rail walling system and clad it in scamolex or vermiculite board. The opening size would still need to be the size below for building regs. If you opening is more narrow buy a smaller stove.

The opening width has to have clearance of 150mm either side of the stove and 300mm above for building regs, this only applies to openings that are masonry built or built using inflammable materials.

Stove Fan:)

Isn't inflammable and flammable the same thing? Surely you mean non-flammable.

kevfal0 · 01-11-2011 7:52pm

Hi,
i am just about to remove my 5 year old Aarrow TF90b stove because it started leaking from the boiler and was wondering if anyone could recommend any good alternatives that have the same output. I will not buy another one of these because i believe they are badly designed with too many "ash traps" inside. Suggestions please

thanks

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 9:16pm

CashMoney wrote: »

Isn't inflammable and flammable the same thing? Surely you mean non-flammable.

Typo, it should of said non flammable:rolleyes: flammable and inflammable do mean the same ie not fireproof.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 9:26pm

kevfal0 wrote: »

Hi,
i am just about to remove my 5 year old Aarrow TF90b stove because it started leaking from the boiler and was wondering if anyone could recommend any good alternatives that have the same output. I will not buy another one of these because i believe they are badly designed with too many "ash traps" inside. Suggestions please

thanks

Hi:) Sorry to hear this but I have heard that it can happen with any boiler stove. Especially if the boiler is undersized or there isn't no pipe stat to control the pump so gets plenty of condensation inside the stove on the surface of the boiler:(.

Unfortunately arrow TF90 is the largest boiler stove that I know. Do you know your total heating load as it may be possible to buy a lower output boiler stove thats a different manufacturer.

There is the broseley hercules 30B 8kw to room though. The TF90 was 4.5kw 8inch flue on the broseley.
http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifuel-Stoves/Hercules-30B_Boiler-Stove.html

Stove Fan:)

avfc1874 · 01-11-2011 10:34pm

hi we're getting a boiler stove and was wondering how much bigger should the hearth be then the legs of the boiler front and sides thanks

Stove Fan · 01-11-2011 11:03pm

avfc1874 wrote: »

hi we're getting a boiler stove and was wondering how much bigger should the hearth be then the legs of the boiler front and sides thanks

150mm either side of the stove and 300mm infront is the building regs standard size.

Stove Fan:)

clonshanny · 02-11-2011 11:43am

Stove Fan wrote: »

I couldn't really say as the plumber has seen the installation. You say you have gas heating? If this is mains gas this would be cheaper to run than a boiler stove burning wood or smokeless fuel. If it's LPG tank gas then yes the stove would be cheaper to run once the large outlay of the stove installation had paid for itself.

If it is mains gas I would only advice a non boiler stove as by the time you have bought the stove, flue it could still cost 5k. It would take many years to pay for the stove installation . Even then you would only save the plumbing costs.

With regards to plumbing the cylinder in on the 3rd floor yes a pump could be used controlled by a cylinder stat providing that if there was a powercut that several upstairs radiators would work on gravity circulation to dissipate the heat from the boiler stove.

Sorry to be so negative but I have to give you a realistic and balanced view.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stove Fan.
Considering the price of copper and what it would cost to plumb the thing, it's probably easier and wiser to go for the non boiler model and just use the mains gas to heat the upstairs rads.

kevfal0 · 02-11-2011 12:28pm

thanks Stove Fan
I have a pipe stat installed about 2 foot away from the output of the stove. this is not the only issue i had with the stove. the side supports inside also are rotten - think because of ash left sitting around the "toblerone" bars. The grate probably needs to be cleaned out thoroughly each week but to do this you would need to pull everthing that's inside of it out - poor design imo. I will know for again what ashes can do if not cleaned out daily.

I am looking at the Glenmore 30kw and Blacksmith furnace 30kw at the minute - have you any experience with these and how do they compare with the TF90b

thanks again

Stove Fan · 02-11-2011 3:55pm

kevfal0 wrote: »

thanks Stove Fan
I have a pipe stat installed about 2 foot away from the output of the stove. this is not the only issue i had with the stove. the side supports inside also are rotten - think because of ash left sitting around the "toblerone" bars. The grate probably needs to be cleaned out thoroughly each week but to do this you would need to pull everthing that's inside of it out - poor design imo. I will know for again what ashes can do if not cleaned out daily.

I am looking at the Glenmore 30kw and Blacksmith furnace 30kw at the minute - have you any experience with these and how do they compare with the TF90b

thanks again

Hi:) I don't have any direct feedback but from viewing the photo and specs they are very much the same although both boilers 2kw less powerfull. Although I prefer the looks of theGlenmore. It looks very solid. The outputs are the same for each. The only real differences between these two stoves and your TF90 is that your TF90 only produced up to 4.5kw to the room and these two new stoves produce 8.5kw. If you think your room can take this heat then this is ok but otherwise it could be too hot so only have a smaller fire and so not enough of a fire going to heat all of the rads.

The other difference was the flue sizes. Your TF90 is 150mm and so is the same size as the Furnace. The Glenmore is a larger flue size 7 inches.

It really depends if your flue has a stainless steel liner already installed in 150mm as then you would be best to buy a stove with a 150mm flue outlet.

If it's a clay lined chimney though and were fitting the glenmore you would still need to replace the 6 inch flue pipes to the larger 7 inch size to the clay liner.

Stove Fan:)

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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