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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭Rain_Dog_Brian


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    As said cladding anything combustible is a definate no-no.

    You can glue or screw it down but not to anything flammable.

    The stove installation instructions will have minimum clearance distances to wooden or combustible items. What stove is it? Any pic of the fireplace?

    I gather this fire is being inset into an opening? Any timber studs or any other combustible materials would need to be removed. If you are building a fake chimney breast make it using a metal rail walling system and clad it in scamolex or vermiculite board. The opening size would still need to be the size below for building regs. If you opening is more narrow buy a smaller stove.

    The opening width has to have clearance of 150mm either side of the stove and 300mm above for building regs, this only applies to openings that are masonry built or built using inflammable materials.

    Stove Fan:)


    Thanks Stove Fan.
    Photos attached if you wouldn't mind having a look.
    Following the original photo, the builder built a block support behind the metal support pole for structural support. Then he put up pink Fireboard around the main brick chimney breast using timber studs for certain areas. You can see the timber on the third photo, up sides and across top of recess.

    The Vega 100 (Penman collection) 5kW non-boiler multi fuel stove is ordered but I don't have installation guide yet but want to have place ready for installation.

    Considering:
    -Take wood studs out
    -For recess, stick Scamolex board to LHS Block, back concrete, RHS bricks

    -But I don't know whether I can keep the pink fireboard on my chimney breast, all the way to the recess, and if so how to afix fireboard to the edge of the recess...

    Grateful for any better options.
    Brian


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,939 ✭✭✭goat2


    i am on the lookout for a stove with a boiler that can carry four radiators, two of then small double, one big and one medium double, what stove should i be looking at


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    goat2 wrote: »
    i am on the lookout for a stove with a boiler that can carry four radiators, two of then small double, one big and one medium double, what stove should i be looking at

    Could you give me the measurements of the rads please:)

    The room size where the stove is to be installed? Insulation levels?

    On the stove purchase costs what is your budget?

    Has it got to fit inside a certain opening?

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Thanks Stove Fan.
    Photos attached if you wouldn't mind having a look.
    Following the original photo, the builder built a block support behind the metal support pole for structural support. Then he put up pink Fireboard around the main brick chimney breast using timber studs for certain areas. You can see the timber on the third photo, up sides and across top of recess.

    The Vega 100 (Penman collection) 5kW non-boiler multi fuel stove is ordered but I don't have installation guide yet but want to have place ready for installation.

    Considering:
    -Take wood studs out
    -For recess, stick Scamolex board to LHS Block, back concrete, RHS bricks

    -But I don't know whether I can keep the pink fireboard on my chimney breast, all the way to the recess, and if so how to afix fireboard to the edge of the recess...

    Grateful for any better options.
    Brian

    Hi, what your builder has done is a fire hazard:eek: As you have mentioned is to remove all the timber and pink plasterboard from the fireplace back to the bare brick/ block and then render and skim the front face of the chimney and side and then cut scamolex to line the inside and glue it to the wall with suitable adhesive.

    If you don't want to use scamolex you could get a plasterer to render and plaster the inside as well. The render inside could crack with the heat but its cheaper than buying scamolex.

    I suggest to get a plasterer in to render and plaster it out after removing the timber and pink plasterboard.

    Is the wall on the right of the picture a solid or hollow wall?

    I liked the old stove:) I bet it was rather hot in there.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭Rain_Dog_Brian


    Thanks for clear advice StoveFan.
    You must have some patience to put up with amateurs panicking here about your area of expertise. If there was a donate button, I would.

    Surprised that all my pink fireboard has to go as it was a HETAC installer who advised me to line chimney breast with pink fireboard and then call him for stove installation. In fairness he never mentioned wooden studs.

    Only lit the old stove once, and if you think the current situation is a fire hazard, you should have seen the wooden trim around the old stove!!

    THe wall on the right is partition hollow wall. What's my next problem? (hearth touching? i thought it was far enough away from stove :()


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,811 ✭✭✭creedp


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) The only models that charnwood do with the external air kit are the Cove and Island Range. Their boiler stoves cant have this feature.

    See:
    http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/charnwood-external-air-manifold.aspx

    I will see if there are others:)

    Stove Fan:)


    Q for Stovefan again Im afraid. I was seriously looking at a Vision 500 with external air and flexible flue, etc, etc. I thought we were both agreed on this but now my wife went to see a guy about a granite hearth and he was also Charwood supplier and is now very interested in the Island 8kw stove. It is slightly cheaper that the Clearview but the guy is insisting that the flexi flue is a waste of time in a new clay lined chimney so all in all the Charnwood is looking good value. My simple Q is ,of 2 stoves mentioned which one would you prefer and I know this has been done to death but in a new internal clay lined chimney that is approx 5m high (single story room) would not going with a flexi liner be a bad idea. Also the Island has a double door which I thought was bad for air tightness and I want a stove that is as airtight as possible. Does the Clearview trump the Island on this front??

    Again I was pretty well sold on the clearview with flexi but I am in danger of being usurped because of a good value granite hearth.

    Advice greatly appreciated!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Thanks for clear advice StoveFan.
    You must have some patience to put up with amateurs panicking here about your area of expertise. If there was a donate button, I would.

    Surprised that all my pink fireboard has to go as it was a HETAC installer who advised me to line chimney breast with pink fireboard and then call him for stove installation. In fairness he never mentioned wooden studs.

    Only lit the old stove once, and if you think the current situation is a fire hazard, you should have seen the wooden trim around the old stove!!

    THe wall on the right is partition hollow wall. What's my next problem? (hearth touching? i thought it was far enough away from stove :()

    Hi thanks for the kind comments:D As far as I am aware the pink plasterboard isn't totally fire retardant. I think it's only designed to stop the spread of flames for 30 minutes. I would get some further advice from a stove installer/ fireplace shop. I have seen it in builders merchants and it still seems coated in paper?
    The wall should not be an issue so long as the stove is the correct distance away as stated in the stoves installation instructions.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    creedp wrote: »
    Q for Stovefan again Im afraid. I was seriously looking at a Vision 500 with external air and flexible flue, etc, etc. I thought we were both agreed on this but now my wife went to see a guy about a granite hearth and he was also Charwood supplier and is now very interested in the Island 8kw stove. It is slightly cheaper that the Clearview but the guy is insisting that the flexi flue is a waste of time in a new clay lined chimney so all in all the Charnwood is looking good value. My simple Q is ,of 2 stoves mentioned which one would you prefer and I know this has been done to death but in a new internal clay lined chimney that is approx 5m high (single story room) would not going with a flexi liner be a bad idea. Also the Island has a double door which I thought was bad for air tightness and I want a stove that is as airtight as possible. Does the Clearview trump the Island on this front??

    Again I was pretty well sold on the clearview with flexi but I am in danger of being usurped because of a good value granite hearth.

    Advice greatly appreciated!!

    The vision and charnwood are both excellent stoves. The island is one of charnwoods premium range and is excellent. It's really deciding on the one you like most and fits your fireplace best.

    As your chimney is only 5m heigh I would line it as it's a better job and makes cleaning the chimney easy. The problems with joining the stove flue pipe to a clay lined chimney is if the clay adapter can't seal you could get tarry condensation running down onto the stove. Fitting a liner avoids this problem. I would think the liner would be around 50 euro a metre. I would think fitting would take anywhere from 30mins to a few hours labour if the flue is straight.

    www.whatstove.co.uk (The website seems down at the moment)

    Here is a charnwood island alight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eR9ODEnNf0
    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 19 LovelyHurlin


    Great thread, which I have gleaned tons of information off...so to start off, thanks to everyone!

    I am in the middle of researching which stove to get. I am looking for:
    - Non-boiler, multifuel stove, around 8-9kw output, traditional enough design. The room is a 50 sq metre open plan kitchen/dining/living area. It's a new extension that is well insulated. Ceilings averaging about 2.5metres.

    I have spoken to alot of different stove suppliers. The problem with alot of thes suppliers, I found, is that they act as agents to particular brands so their advice isn't exactly impartial!

    To cut to the chase, I have gotten prices for the following models, all coming in at around €1250 delivered (not including flu or fitting).

    Nestor Martin Harmony I
    Stanford 80
    Charnwood Country 8
    Stovax Stockton 8

    Any advice on the pros/cons for these models? I have checked whatstove.co.uk, but I was hoping for some first hand experience that anyone might have :)

    I know some of these models are cast iron and some are steel, does this make a big difference durability/quality?

    Thanks in advance,

    LH.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,811 ✭✭✭creedp


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    The vision and charnwood are both excellent stoves. The island is one of charnwoods premium range and is excellent. It's really deciding on the one you like most and fits your fireplace best.

    As your chimney is only 5m heigh I would line it as it's a better job and makes cleaning the chimney easy. The problems with joining the stove flue pipe to a clay lined chimney is if the clay adapter can't seal you could get tarry condensation running down onto the stove. Fitting a liner avoids this problem. I would think the liner would be around 50 euro a metre. I would think fitting would take anywhere from 30mins to a few hours labour if the flue is straight.

    www.whatstove.co.uk (The website seems down at the moment)

    Here is a charnwood island alight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eR9ODEnNf0
    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks Stovefan


    That's the issue, Im not totally concerned with the look and consider the Clearview an efficient stove thats also a nice stove. However, the Charnwood Island II is considerd a better looking stove and the retailer made a big sales pitch about the grate which can be adjusted from wood to multi-fuel with a simple lever and also this allows any ash to fall into an ash pan which can be simply removed for disposal of ash without opening the stove. This was a real selling point.

    My big Q again is which of the 2 stoves is more airtight/sealed to the room. Also how does the Island II compare to the country 8, the latter seems to be a littled bit more efficient at around 80% compared to the Island II at 78% - I know what's the difference!!

    On the lining issue I've almost given up arguing. I would install and the quoted cost for the materials including all clamps/backfill is approx €500. Then of course there is the fitting- that quote offerred a full fitting services for another €400 whereas the builder said he would just fit the stove for no extra cost - he is not too enthuastic about the flexible flue. However, he is the guy that put a 45deg bend in the flue about 0.5m above flue end and insisted anyone who argued a straight flue was better simply didn't know what they were talking about!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 425 ✭✭Surfn


    Stove Fan, more advice here place, you deserve a few beers for all this info, i finally got the plumber to call at the house yesterday to make sure it wasnt going to be a big job to put in a boiler stove. i asked him about the flexi flu liner and he said no just to let it go into the 9 inch clay flu pipes. im abit wary on this. should i use this flexi flu or not, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using it and not using it. thanks in advance


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    creedp wrote: »
    Thanks Stovefan


    That's the issue, Im not totally concerned with the look and consider the Clearview an efficient stove thats also a nice stove. However, the Charnwood Island II is considerd a better looking stove and the retailer made a big sales pitch about the grate which can be adjusted from wood to multi-fuel with a simple lever and also this allows any ash to fall into an ash pan which can be simply removed for disposal of ash without opening the stove. This was a real selling point.

    My big Q again is which of the 2 stoves is more airtight/sealed to the room. Also how does the Island II compare to the country 8, the latter seems to be a littled bit more efficient at around 80% compared to the Island II at 78% - I know what's the difference!!

    On the lining issue I've almost given up arguing. I would install and the quoted cost for the materials including all clamps/backfill is approx €500. Then of course there is the fitting- that quote offerred a full fitting services for another €400 whereas the builder said he would just fit the stove for no extra cost - he is not too enthuastic about the flexible flue. However, he is the guy that put a 45deg bend in the flue about 0.5m above flue end and insisted anyone who argued a straight flue was better simply didn't know what they were talking about!

    The grate and air controls on the island is a superb design. The country 8 is charnwoods more lower priced stove and so does let air in. The two stoves are very airtight but I have to say if I was buying I would choose the Island especially if burning coal. The island and cove are there more premium and higher quality range. I think although clearview are multifuel I think they are more suited to burning wood.

    A stove installer on a forum I go on has his own buisiness in the UK has a island stove and he really rates it:)

    See a discussion on Clearview and Charnwood.
    http://www.thegreenlivingforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=104946

    I would have a seperate person in to install the liner and stove.

    I can't believe in this day and age that the old wives tale is still doing the rounds with regards bends in flues:rolleyes:

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Surfn wrote: »
    Stove Fan, more advice here place, you deserve a few beers for all this info, i finally got the plumber to call at the house yesterday to make sure it wasnt going to be a big job to put in a boiler stove. i asked him about the flexi flu liner and he said no just to let it go into the 9 inch clay flu pipes. im abit wary on this. should i use this flexi flu or not, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using it and not using it. thanks in advance

    Hi:) There are no disadvantages in using a flexi liner apart from the cost.

    Advantages:

    Better draw as the clay chimney doesn't absorb the heat.
    Liner keeps the chimney warm and stops condensation in the flue.
    No risk of tar and condensation leaking out at the clay adapter.
    very easy to sweep as the flue is all one size.
    How do you sweep through a 6 inch flue to an 8 inch clay flue to clean the chimney well.
    Extra fire protection should the worst happen.

    Disadvantages:

    Cost of liner and fitting.

    The fitter just probably didn't want to go on the roof to install the liner.


    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Great thread, which I have gleaned tons of information off...so to start off, thanks to everyone!

    I am in the middle of researching which stove to get. I am looking for:
    - Non-boiler, multifuel stove, around 8-9kw output, traditional enough design. The room is a 50 sq metre open plan kitchen/dining/living area. It's a new extension that is well insulated. Ceilings averaging about 2.5metres.

    I have spoken to alot of different stove suppliers. The problem with alot of thes suppliers, I found, is that they act as agents to particular brands so their advice isn't exactly impartial!

    To cut to the chase, I have gotten prices for the following models, all coming in at around €1250 delivered (not including flu or fitting).

    Nestor Martin Harmony I
    Stanford 80
    Charnwood Country 8
    Stovax Stockton 8

    Any advice on the pros/cons for these models? I have checked whatstove.co.uk, but I was hoping for some first hand experience that anyone might have :)

    I know some of these models are cast iron and some are steel, does this make a big difference durability/quality?

    Thanks in advance,

    LH.

    Hi:) The first two makes I dont know anything about:( The charnwood and stovax are good makes and both made of steel with cast components
    . You would be happy enough with both but myself I have to say I like the look of the stovax stockton. I do think the country would be a more hard wearing stove but not as good airwash and as airtight as the stockton.
    Either cast iron or steel is just as good so long they are both good quality stoves.
    View them if you haven't already and see which you prefer.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,939 ✭✭✭goat2


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Could you give me the measurements of the rads please:)

    The room size where the stove is to be installed? Insulation levels?

    On the stove purchase costs what is your budget?

    Has it got to fit inside a certain opening?

    Stove Fan:)
    it will sit in front of the fire,
    there will be one six foot single radiator, tow very small double radiators, and a double four foot radiator. i am hoping to cover the lot along with the person fitting at about two thousand,


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    goat2 wrote: »
    it will sit in front of the fire,
    there will be one six foot single radiator, tow very small double radiators, and a double four foot radiator. i am hoping to cover the lot along with the person fitting at about two thousand,

    Hi:) I have used these sizes of rads:


    1x 600mm x 2000 single.
    2x 600mm x 600 double.
    1x 600mm x 1200 double.
    total rad output 6.5Kw
    Plus hot water +3.0Kw
    Total =9.5kw


    If your radiators are a bit smaller you could buy a stove with an 8kw boiler.

    The following are possibles keeping the price of the stove low, but please check the rad sizes and if smaller most of these will be suitable.



    Aarrow ecoboiler EB9HE. 9Kw to water.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb9-he.html

    Hunter herald 8b (wraparound boiler) 8.5kw max to water.
    http://www.hunterstoves.co.uk/Stoves/Herald8heating.html

    Broseley hercules 12B. 8kw to water.
    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifuel-Stoves/Hercules-12B_Boiler-Stove.html

    Yeoman devon 50HB. 8.2kw to water.
    http://yeoman-stoves.co.uk/html/devon50-hb.html

    The ecoboiler would be my favourite and then the yeoman for room heat if it's a nice sized room.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,703 ✭✭✭Nermal


    Hi Stovefan! The largest room in my house is a combined kitchen/dining room. Unfortunately there's no expanse of wall suitable for putting a radiator on.

    There is however an open fireplace, that I've ripped everything out of so it's literally just a hole now. There's a gas available next to it. My plan was to get a gas stove installed there. So the stove would be the only source of heat for that room. I've figured out I need 3.5kW.

    However I've been told that they're not suitable for constant use - if run constantly they'll break down or require replacement much sooner. I won't be running them constantly though - the room is insulated, and will probably only require heating three months of the year for two/three hours a day. Will this level of usage be a problem or am I worrying too much here?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 425 ✭✭Surfn


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) There are no disadvantages in using a flexi liner apart from the cost.

    Advantages:

    Better draw as the clay chimney doesn't absorb the heat.
    Liner keeps the chimney warm and stops condensation in the flue.
    No risk of tar and condensation leaking out at the clay adapter.
    very easy to sweep as the flue is all one size.
    How do you sweep through a 6 inch flue to an 8 inch clay flue to clean the chimney well.
    Extra fire protection should the worst happen.

    Disadvantages:

    Cost of liner and fitting.

    The fitter just probably didn't want to go on the roof to install the liner.


    Stove Fan:)
    Stove Fan, cheers for that, ya only do this job 1s or 1s in a pretty longtime and want to do it right. i will have the flexi flu liner in myself and have it in for when he comes to fit the stove. the old oil flexi flu has to come out anyhow. im hoping the 316 grade will be ok becuase the 904 is pretty expensive. also this will be for a stovax stockton 14hb, mainly burning sticks and small bit of coal.
    just abit of topic of the flexi flu liner, whats your thoughts on a charnwood country 16b, we have only about 10 rads now, i know the stockton 14hb can heat up to 19, my reasons for this stove was to maybe change the rads to doubles in the future, i think im just gonna have to go and look at the 2 stoves and see them in the flesh. to look at and for quality which would you prefer Stove Fan.
    cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Surfn wrote: »
    Stove Fan, cheers for that, ya only do this job 1s or 1s in a pretty longtime and want to do it right. i will have the flexi flu liner in myself and have it in for when he comes to fit the stove. the old oil flexi flu has to come out anyhow. im hoping the 316 grade will be ok becuase the 904 is pretty expensive. also this will be for a stovax stockton 14hb, mainly burning sticks and small bit of coal.
    just abit of topic of the flexi flu liner, whats your thoughts on a charnwood country 16b, we have only about 10 rads now, i know the stockton 14hb can heat up to 19, my reasons for this stove was to maybe change the rads to doubles in the future, i think im just gonna have to go and look at the 2 stoves and see them in the flesh. to look at and for quality which would you prefer Stove Fan.
    cheers

    The liner will last about 10 years in 316 if not using too much coal.
    Most would reccommend a 904 grade liner with a boiler stove, very hard use being used more.

    The charnwood country 16b is a fine stove but for serious boiler power the stockton 14HB wins. The stockton has a 3kw bigger boiler. Enough to heat 2 more 600mm x 800 double radiators.

    The number of rads quoted will be for single radiators and not doubles.

    If the boiler power isn't that important both will do the same job. See which one you prefer as you say.


    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Nermal wrote: »
    Hi Stovefan! The largest room in my house is a combined kitchen/dining room. Unfortunately there's no expanse of wall suitable for putting a radiator on.

    There is however an open fireplace, that I've ripped everything out of so it's literally just a hole now. There's a gas available next to it. My plan was to get a gas stove installed there. So the stove would be the only source of heat for that room. I've figured out I need 3.5kW.

    However I've been told that they're not suitable for constant use - if run constantly they'll break down or require replacement much sooner. I won't be running them constantly though - the room is insulated, and will probably only require heating three months of the year for two/three hours a day. Will this level of usage be a problem or am I worrying too much here?

    Hi:) I have never heard about them being unreliable and dont really see why they would. I dont think you will have any problems with any usage really.

    Stove Fan:)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 Jeff Woods


    Macano31 wrote: »
    Hi
    Anyone have experience with the Blacksmith stoves. I am thinking of installing the Blacksmith Forge. They seem to be built to German specifications Any advice appreciated?
    Thanks
    Blacksmith stoves are reliable but are made in China, not Germany, they appear to be made of the same construction as the Horseflame brand stoves but the Horseflame seems better price but fewer shops sell it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,939 ✭✭✭goat2


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) I have used these sizes of rads:


    1x 600mm x 2000 single.
    2x 600mm x 600 double.
    1x 600mm x 1200 double.
    total rad output 6.5Kw
    Plus hot water +3.0Kw
    Total =9.5kw


    If your radiators are a bit smaller you could buy a stove with an 8kw boiler.

    The following are possibles keeping the price of the stove low, but please check the rad sizes and if smaller most of these will be suitable.



    Aarrow ecoboiler EB9HE. 9Kw to water.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb9-he.html

    Hunter herald 8b (wraparound boiler) 8.5kw max to water.
    http://www.hunterstoves.co.uk/Stoves/Herald8heating.html

    Broseley hercules 12B. 8kw to water.
    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Multifuel-Stoves/Hercules-12B_Boiler-Stove.html

    Yeoman devon 50HB. 8.2kw to water.
    http://yeoman-stoves.co.uk/html/devon50-hb.html

    The ecoboiler would be my favourite and then the yeoman for room heat if it's a nice sized room.

    Stove Fan:)
    can it cause problems if i were one double radiator short,
    what is the dimensions of the smallest double radiator on the market, as i would be looking for two as the places is small, and i am looking at one 600mm single and one 600mm double radiator


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    goat2 wrote: »
    can it cause problems if i were one double radiator short,
    what is the dimensions of the smallest double radiator on the market, as i would be looking for two as the places is small, and i am looking at one 600mm single and one 600mm double radiator

    Fitting the 2 rads above would decrease the rad temperature but would still heat them up but not as hot.

    A 600mm x 600mm double is around 1kw and the single about 500watts.

    The smallest double would be a 500mm by 400 double.

    If you are having more rads on the system than the boiler can fully heat to hot, fit thermostatic radiator valves on rooms that don't need to be as hot, but don't fit trv's on all the radiators.

    I fit trv's on kitchen radiator because of cooking and also the bedrooms. (I like cooler bedrooms)The trv's would close off the heat to the set temperature and put the heat to where it's needed.

    Another option would be to zone the solid fuel system by having the downstairs on a zone and the upstairs on another.

    This is providing the hot water cylinder is heated by gravity circulation and has it's own heat leak radiator too.

    Our boiler on our villager berkley boiler stove is rated at 7.6kw and it's heating 10kw of rads and water no problem even just burning wood. We have 5 rads a towel rail and heat the water too. 4 of the rads have trv's but most are on 3 or on full. It's not a zoned system.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 joec1


    Stovefan,
    If I could get some advice please regarding which stove to buy.
    I have figured out that I need around 6kw and no more to the room and much as possible to the boiler (need to heat about 13 rads). I have been researching the henley blasket, mulbery beckett, charnwood 16b, olymberl aidan.
    I know the charnwood is a good bit more expensive than the rest, but I have a feeling that is because it is better built. Is this true, and what would you recommed that I go for. Maybe you could suggest something different. Some guys in the shops say things like "the henley is too new and we are wary" or "the mulbery is crap and we have people bringing in worn out parts".
    I find it difficult to get impartial advice,

    Any thoughts on this would be very much appreciated, as we are ready to make the plunge in the next week or so. icon7.gif


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 425 ✭✭Surfn


    i was looking at stoves yesterday in a showroom, it was my first time to see the charnwood country 16b in the flesh, im not keen on the look of it, the island 3b now is a lovely looking stove, very keen on that also the stove that i like the stovax stockton 14hb is a great looking stove. i also wanted to see a clearview 750 but they hadnt got 1 of them. the clearview 750 has a hotplate on it, has any1 got 1 of these stoves because id like to know if you could boil a kettle on it or say cook a pot of spuds on it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Surfn wrote: »
    i was looking at stoves yesterday in a showroom, it was my first time to see the charnwood country 16b in the flesh, im not keen on the look of it, the island 3b now is a lovely looking stove, very keen on that also the stove that i like the stovax stockton 14hb is a great looking stove. i also wanted to see a clearview 750 but they hadnt got 1 of them. the clearview 750 has a hotplate on it, has any1 got 1 of these stoves because id like to know if you could boil a kettle on it or say cook a pot of spuds on it

    Hi:) The charnwood 3b is a superb stove and is a way better stove than the country models. The island 3b is quite expensive though. Was the hotplate a boiler model though on the clearview? The good thing with clearview and woodwarm stoves is the large boilers can be fitted after and so if a leak develops years after you can just replace the boiler and not have to buy a new stove:).
    Another stove that is great is; http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/yorkshirestoveCH.htm
    see www.whatstove.co.uk for reviews on the dunsley yorkshire.

    Woodwarm apparently were formed from clearview employees and make great stoves.
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/


    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 959 ✭✭✭maringo


    Have just got a stove Olymberyl fitted and notice only about 60mm space above the stobe between it and the chimney bottom which I think is concrete lintel - is this safe? The stove has a boiler and we have plumber who fitted it coming back tomorrow. I'm a bit worried having just read previous threads that 6 inches should be left between top of stove and bottom of chimney breast. It has a stainless flue fitted would appreciate any advice that you have stovefan.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    maringo wrote: »
    Have just got a stove Olymberyl fitted and notice only about 60mm space above the stobe between it and the chimney bottom which I think is concrete lintel - is this safe? The stove has a boiler and we have plumber who fitted it coming back tomorrow. I'm a bit worried having just read previous threads that 6 inches should be left between top of stove and bottom of chimney breast. It has a stainless flue fitted would appreciate any advice that you have stovefan.

    Hi 300mm clearance above the stove and 150mm either side is the building regulation minimum for a stove inside an opening in the UK. If the heat can't escape it may crack a cast iron stove.

    I would have the lintel raised or if the hearth is deep enough bring the stove forward so at least most of it forward from the lintel. Still has to have 300mm depth of hearth in front of the stove.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 959 ✭✭✭maringo


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi 300mm clearance above the stove and 150mm either side is the building regulation minimum for a stove inside an opening in the UK. If the heat can't escape it may crack a cast iron stove.

    I would have the lintel raised or if the hearth is deep enough bring the stove forward so at least most of it forward from the lintel. Still has to have 300mm depth of hearth in front of the stove.

    Stove Fan:)


    Thanks a million for that information Stovefan - will have it brought forward some to keep a 300 mm hearth in front of the stove. You are a mine of information :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,292 ✭✭✭MightyMunster


    Hi,
    Looking for some advice on inset stoves.
    Have a width of around 670mm and looked at a Tripp TR8C (€1500), a Bodart & Gonay Infire 683 (€2500), and a Wanders Square 68 (€2000).
    Besides the additional fans and thermostat on the Bodart & Gonay would there be much of a quality difference between these or are there any better alternatives?
    We want a minimalist inset style with maximum glass on the front.

    Also the budget isn't huge, hoping for a total installed price of around €2000 as minimal work is required on the fireplace.

    Would be grateful for any tips as its all new to me!

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    hi Stove Fan,
    I am back again, I looked at my dovre and found it is 8Kw, which you suggest is far too big for my room 19 x 15 x 8ft. I believe a 6Kw will be just fine, No boiler required, I realise that my 18" heats my room ok, but it takes a great deal of fuel, and more imprtant I hate to light it and then go out, because of the danger of fire.
    Could you again give me a list of good cast iron (not chinese) that you consider good. I believe there is a long waiting list for some stoves, it this true.? You are a very patient person, giving invaluable advice to all, and it is much appreciated. Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    hi Stove Fan,
    I am back again, I looked at my dovre and found it is 8Kw, which you suggest is far too big for my room 19 x 15 x 8ft. I believe a 6Kw will be just fine, No boiler required, I realise that my 18" heats my room ok, but it takes a great deal of fuel, and more imprtant I hate to light it and then go out, because of the danger of fire.
    Could you again give me a list of good cast iron (not chinese) that you consider good. I believe there is a long waiting list for some stoves, it this true.? You are a very patient person, giving invaluable advice to all, and it is much appreciated. Cheers

    Hi thanks:) Some stoves do have a long waiting list due to being popular!! I don't know of many cast iron stoves I could reccommend or are familiar with but morso is a great brand. Look at the 6kw Badger and Owl models.
    I'm sure others will advice on other cast iron stoves. Does it have to be cast iron? There is a lot more choice in steel stoves. Like a clearview vision 500!
    http://www.clearviewstoves.com/vision500.htm

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Febe9


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) From a rough calculaton of your 8 rads I calculated 13kw for a boiler stove or 45,000btu and 3.5-4kw output to the room.

    I prefer steel but both have their merits. It's normal to heat the water by the stove or a seperate immersion heater. You may be able to seperate the rad and water heating from the stove depending on the stoves controls but there really wouldn't be much point as the stove has to be lit anyway. If you just want hot water light a very small fire.

    Stove Fan:)

    Hi, After looking at many different stoves I was struck by the grate size you would have to fill with fuel to get the optimum heat. This has led me to opt for the Stratford EB12 rather than the Hunter 14B. Before doing so I would gratefully appreciate any opinions or experience any of you may have on these stoves. Hoping the Stratford will come out tops.
    Many thanks. F


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 mariskalisa


    Hi

    Could someone help me please? I would like to get a boiler stove fitted to provide hot water and to heat radiators but am unsure of what output I would need. I have asked several plumbers and they all gave me different answers from 9KW to 14KW to 28KW so I'm a bit confused.

    The measurements of my rads are as follows: 2 doubles 1700mm x 500mm, 1 double 2400mm x 600mm, 1 double 1300mm x 700mm, 1 single 2000mm x 600mm, 1 single 950mm x 700mm, 2 singles 1700mm x 500mm and 1 single 1450mm x 500mm.

    Any feedback would be really helpful :)

    Mari


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Mariskalisa asks:

    Could someone help me please? I would like to get a boiler stove fitted to provide hot water and to heat radiators but am unsure of what output I would need. I have asked several plumbers and they all gave me different answers from 9KW to 14KW to 28KW so I'm a bit confused.

    Well, the thermal energy demand of the house - or it's rooms - is decisive, not the size of the radiators which are present.
    Stay away from sellers and installers who do not point this out, these are cowboys.


  • Registered Users Posts: 28 Rob_talisman


    Well ive finally received all my parts for the stove, turned into a bit of a mess..

    My next stage was to get the chimney lined. But ive just been speaking to someone about doing this and i think im getting mixed advise.

    I currenly have a gas fire in the room which is connected to a 6" steel flue liner already. i was under the impression id have to remove it and fit a new one, but ive now been told there is no need when i have a steel liner there already and its drawing nicely...

    so confused. obviously if i didnt need to change it it would save a lot of messing about let alone the expense.

    any advise?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73 ✭✭paul127


    Hey There,I need a Boru Carraig Mor Double Double,back boiler with External air ASAP i.e Before Christmas - all the suppliers I rang are telling me it'll be Jan..... I can get one but the problem is the external air kit which needs to be installed in the factory .... Any idea's for me so I can get this sorted before Xmas or do you know of any other options for a double sided back bolier stove's ? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    Hi there,

    I'm considering installing a stove to heat a reasonably size-able open plan area in an existing house (approx 16 years old).
    The area is approx 60sq metres. It comprises a kitchen area, dining area and sun-room (used as a living room). This open plan area is where we spend most of our time in the house. Each of the 3 areas is approx 20sq metres of the overall 60sq metres, and the sunroom has vaulted ceilings.

    We're looking at a circa 9KW solution.

    We would be after a very contemporary looking stove to fit in with the overall style of the area.

    We have 2 options:
    1/ Convert an existing fire place in the dining area to an inset one.
    2/ Block off the existing fireplace (maybe just with a chimney balloon), and install a new free standing stove into the sunroom area.

    I've looked into number 1 and it looks like it could get very pricey, - ie. with flue lining, widening of fire opening, installation, removal of existing surround etc. I think you're looking at 1500euro minimum in installation work, at a conservative estimate.

    I've just thought of number 2 (new free standing stove in the sunroom) as another option.
    This would involve bringing a flue up and out of the sun-room. Actually it would probably need to exit at the top of the wall rather than the roof, - because there are decorative wooden beams on the roof. There are also quite a few windows in the sunroom which isn't ideal, - but, it is a very pleasant room in which we spend a lot of time.
    We'd actually prefer this (option number 2) as we would get more enjoyment of the stove because it would be where we watch TV etc. and could act somewhat as a focal point.

    I'm just wondering, - is the installation of such a free standing stove (obviously flue is required) generally more or less costly than converting an existing fireplace?
    Are there any important factors to consider?

    Thanks in advance!

    (PS, this thread has already been most helpful)


  • Registered Users Posts: 67 ✭✭Vince1974


    Great informative thread!

    I am in the process of changing from an open fire with a lovely draught of air into the chimney at all times to a stove. Since we're redesigning the room into quite a modern style a contemporary look for the insert stove would be required. The output needed is around 5kw and I want it to be a multifuel stove.

    Now most of the inserts with a contemporary sleek look are seriously pricey compared to more traditional looking ones.

    Any tips on where to look/buy?

    The current favourite is the Stovax Riva 40.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 902 ✭✭✭JMSE


    There are two Irish manufacturers that I've found, Borustoves in Tipperary and Inis stoves in Galway. Boru do a good range including insert boiler stoves which I'm interested in, Inis have a lovely range of non-insert boiler stoves and their website is much better than Boru's, but they dont do an insert stove.


  • Registered Users Posts: 902 ✭✭✭JMSE


    Having read up on the Esse 350GS tonight, the writeup on the stovecentre.ie is confusing. They mention operating range up to 14.7kw/h and then they say its output is 7 :confused: , heres the text....

    The 350 GreenSwitch™ is a room heating stove
    with thermostatic boiler. It has an operating rangeof 14.7kW/h but gives only a modest 3.6kW/h to the room and a generous 11.1kW/h (38,006 Btu) to water. These figures are based on wood burning and will be slightly higher when burning mineral fuel.The 350 GreenSwitch™ is equipped with a control (the Green Switch) that adjusts the airflow to maintain the most efficient combustion whether burning wood or mineral fuel. Its large capacity firebox makes the it a versatile woodburner.Like the rest of the 300 series it fits into a standard fireplace, however a depth of 372mm must be created to allow for its larger capacity firebox.
    Size: 541mm h x 400mm w x 372mm d
    Stock No (SKU): Esse Green Switch
    Flue: 6"/150mm
    Weight: 0 Kg
    Output (KW): 14.0000



    Features and specification
    - Fits standard fireplace with brick fire back
    removed
    - Suitable for continuous burning
    - Additional room vent required
    - Suitable for class 1 chimneys
    - Operating range up to 7kW/h (Logs)
    - Efficiency - 72% (Logs)
    - Fuel consumption – 2.1kg per hour (Logs)
    - CO emissions - 0.43 (@ 13%O2) (Logs)
    The 350GS is available with a choice of 6 doors




    Anyone know what the difference between the 14 and the 7 is?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    joec1 wrote: »
    Stovefan,
    If I could get some advice please regarding which stove to buy.
    I have figured out that I need around 6kw and no more to the room and much as possible to the boiler (need to heat about 13 rads). I have been researching the henley blasket, mulbery beckett, charnwood 16b, olymberl aidan.
    I know the charnwood is a good bit more expensive than the rest, but I have a feeling that is because it is better built. Is this true, and what would you recommed that I go for. Maybe you could suggest something different. Some guys in the shops say things like "the henley is too new and we are wary" or "the mulbery is crap and we have people bringing in worn out parts".
    I find it difficult to get impartial advice,

    Any thoughts on this would be very much appreciated, as we are ready to make the plunge in the next week or so. icon7.gif

    I really need the required output:) as 13 rads could be a very large output if they are all doubles.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hi,
    Looking for some advice on inset stoves.
    Have a width of around 670mm and looked at a Tripp TR8C (€1500), a Bodart & Gonay Infire 683 (€2500), and a Wanders Square 68 (€2000).
    Besides the additional fans and thermostat on the Bodart & Gonay would there be much of a quality difference between these or are there any better alternatives?
    We want a minimalist inset style with maximum glass on the front.

    Also the budget isn't huge, hoping for a total installed price of around €2000 as minimal work is required on the fireplace.

    Would be grateful for any tips as its all new to me!

    Thanks

    Hi:) I don't know anything about the above inset stoves. Have a look at Esse inset stoves. These would allow enough for installation.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hi

    Could someone help me please? I would like to get a boiler stove fitted to provide hot water and to heat radiators but am unsure of what output I would need. I have asked several plumbers and they all gave me different answers from 9KW to 14KW to 28KW so I'm a bit confused.

    The measurements of my rads are as follows: 2 doubles 1700mm x 500mm, 1 double 2400mm x 600mm, 1 double 1300mm x 700mm, 1 single 2000mm x 600mm, 1 single 950mm x 700mm, 2 singles 1700mm x 500mm and 1 single 1450mm x 500mm.

    Any feedback would be really helpful :)

    Mari

    Hi:) based on the rad sizes given then your looking for a 24kw boiler stove. Aarrow stratford TF90 is a possible.

    Heinbloed is right though in that it really needs the heat loss calculated as generally not all installers size the rads to the required heat loss for a certain room. This can lead to a radiator being too big or sometimes even too small. Unfortunately though if all the rads are all oversized there isnt much point in fitting a much smaller boiler stove.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Well ive finally received all my parts for the stove, turned into a bit of a mess..

    My next stage was to get the chimney lined. But ive just been speaking to someone about doing this and i think im getting mixed advise.

    I currenly have a gas fire in the room which is connected to a 6" steel flue liner already. i was under the impression id have to remove it and fit a new one, but ive now been told there is no need when i have a steel liner there already and its drawing nicely...

    so confused. obviously if i didnt need to change it it would save a lot of messing about let alone the expense.

    any advise?

    Hi:) If the existing liner is suitable for solid fuel use and the installer has verified it's condition then yes you could use it.

    I would be very surprised if when the gas fire was fitted they used the better dearer grade liner for solid fuel and not the cheaper gas/oil liner only one.

    If there is any doub't fit a new one:)

    But you never know:)

    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    ravendude wrote: »
    Hi there,

    I'm considering installing a stove to heat a reasonably size-able open plan area in an existing house (approx 16 years old).
    The area is approx 60sq metres. It comprises a kitchen area, dining area and sun-room (used as a living room). This open plan area is where we spend most of our time in the house. Each of the 3 areas is approx 20sq metres of the overall 60sq metres, and the sunroom has vaulted ceilings.

    We're looking at a circa 9KW solution.

    We would be after a very contemporary looking stove to fit in with the overall style of the area.

    We have 2 options:
    1/ Convert an existing fire place in the dining area to an inset one.
    2/ Block off the existing fireplace (maybe just with a chimney balloon), and install a new free standing stove into the sunroom area.

    I've looked into number 1 and it looks like it could get very pricey, - ie. with flue lining, widening of fire opening, installation, removal of existing surround etc. I think you're looking at 1500euro minimum in installation work, at a conservative estimate.

    I've just thought of number 2 (new free standing stove in the sunroom) as another option.
    This would involve bringing a flue up and out of the sun-room. Actually it would probably need to exit at the top of the wall rather than the roof, - because there are decorative wooden beams on the roof. There are also quite a few windows in the sunroom which isn't ideal, - but, it is a very pleasant room in which we spend a lot of time.
    We'd actually prefer this (option number 2) as we would get more enjoyment of the stove because it would be where we watch TV etc. and could act somewhat as a focal point.

    I'm just wondering, - is the installation of such a free standing stove (obviously flue is required) generally more or less costly than converting an existing fireplace?
    Are there any important factors to consider?

    Thanks in advance!

    (PS, this thread has already been most helpful)

    Hi:) both options could be pricey:( The stove in the sun room could cost more depending on the height of the new insulated twin wall chimney. Are you sure 9kw is enough heat? I may be wrong but think 12 kw would be wiser with having an open plan layout and one vaulted ceiling.

    It would be best to get 3 quotes and see what they suggest:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    JMSE wrote: »
    Having read up on the Esse 350GS tonight, the writeup on the stovecentre.ie is confusing. They mention operating range up to 14.7kw/h and then they say its output is 7 :confused: , heres the text....

    The 350 GreenSwitch™ is a room heating stove
    with thermostatic boiler. It has an operating rangeof 14.7kW/h but gives only a modest 3.6kW/h to the room and a generous 11.1kW/h (38,006 Btu) to water. These figures are based on wood burning and will be slightly higher when burning mineral fuel.The 350 GreenSwitch™ is equipped with a control (the Green Switch) that adjusts the airflow to maintain the most efficient combustion whether burning wood or mineral fuel. Its large capacity firebox makes the it a versatile woodburner.Like the rest of the 300 series it fits into a standard fireplace, however a depth of 372mm must be created to allow for its larger capacity firebox.
    Size: 541mm h x 400mm w x 372mm d
    Stock No (SKU): Esse Green Switch
    Flue: 6"/150mm
    Weight: 0 Kg
    Output (KW): 14.0000



    Features and specification
    - Fits standard fireplace with brick fire back
    removed
    - Suitable for continuous burning
    - Additional room vent required
    - Suitable for class 1 chimneys
    - Operating range up to 7kW/h (Logs)
    - Efficiency - 72% (Logs)
    - Fuel consumption – 2.1kg per hour (Logs)
    - CO emissions - 0.43 (@ 13%O2) (Logs)
    The 350GS is available with a choice of 6 doors



    Anyone know what the difference between the 14 and the 7 is?

    I think the stove centre has got it wrong as on the esse website it does not mention 7kw.
    http://esse.com/multifuel-stoves/350gs/

    Stove Fan:)


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,998 Mod ✭✭✭✭Planet X


    Just put in this week.
    I like it. ;)

    P1020118.jpg





    P1020125.jpg

    P1020127.jpg

    P1020130.jpg


    P1020131.jpg



    P1020128.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    JMSE quoted

    It has an operating rangeof 14.7kW/h but gives only a modest 3.6kW/h to the room and a generous 11.1kW/h (38,006 Btu) to water. These figures are based on wood burning and will be slightly higher when burning mineral fuel.
    and asks
    Anyone know what the difference between the 14 and the 7 is?
    The 14 kW are for mineral fuel (propably coal meant here) and the 7 kW are for timber fuel.

    The moisture content is important, standard calculations take 10-12% water content for timber. Timber stored outside but sheltered will have about 20% water content. The higher the water content the lower the output.
    - Operating range up to 7kW/h (Logs)
    - Efficiency - 72% (Logs)
    - Fuel consumption – 2.1kg per hour (Logs)

    The output numbers quoted by Esse seem to represent the efficiency
    of their boiler when using soft wood logs at 10% moisture.

    With 0 % moisture pine and spruce have an energy content of 5.03 kWh/kg
    With 10% moisture 4.51 kWh/kg.
    with 20% moisture 4.08 kWh/kg.

    A 2.1 kg load with 10% moisture content burned at 72% efficiency would deliver 6.81 kWh of thermal energy.

    If we take oak the energy content would be 5.03 kWh/kg at 0% moisture.
    4.51 kWh/kg at 10% moisture and
    4.08 kWh/kg at 20% moisture.
    If the oak logs hold 20% moisture the thermal energy created would be 6.16 kWh when burned with a 72 % appliance efficiency.

    You see that only kiln dried soft wood timber will give the stated efficiency. And this is expensive.
    Lidl has a special offer at the moment selling 8 kg kiln dried soft wood for around € 3.50. Which works out at 9 cents per kWh when burned with a 72 % efficiency.
    Only electricity is a more expensive fuel to heat a home - under the circumstances described.


  • Registered Users Posts: 902 ✭✭✭JMSE


    Just to be fair to the Esse 350 GS, here is the correct spec from the esse website....

    Model
    350 GS
    Fuel
    Logs
    Output KW EN13240(ST)
    14.6 total split by 3.6kw to room and 11.1kw to water
    Efficiency %
    75.7 (wood) - 72.7 (mineral-anthracite)
    CO Emissions Corrected to 13% O2
    0.4
    Fuel/Hr Kgs
    3.8
    Flue temp Mean °C
    395


    So to use Heinbloed's formula, a 3.8 kg load of pine/spruce with 10% moisture content burned at 75.7% efficiency would deliver 12.97 kWh of thermal energy.


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