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Labour Saving and General Guntering
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Also, I've found through bitter experience that hydrodare breaks down over time and allows current to leak off to earth.
God I didn't realise that Rovi. Is it the voltage going through it that causes it to break down? Had you the ends of the hydradare bent in a hoop to stop the water getting in?0 -
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i just put my weelbarrow under mine and off i go.0 -
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I just use plastic 200L barrels cut lengthways, I can fire about 6 of them into the back of the jeep, nice and light too. I have two holes cut in the end with a piece of twine threaded through them, piece of insulator tube on the twine for a handle. Them troughs are only scrap!If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.
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Firstly can I say that I am not for one minute laying claim to being the originator of this handy tip, it was someone on F&F that I got the tip from in the first place, can't remember who..... blue5000 possibly?
Anyhow I tried it last night and thought it was genius!.... so I said I'd post for everyone's benefit........
You can buy the roll of undergate cabling, but it's expensive and alot of them, unless you buy the known brands, are of dubious quality and will rust quickly, creating poor contacts. A piece of HT wire treaded through hydrodare pipe is the way to go, and is widely used by fencing contractors. But how to get it through successfully, especially on a long run? (the length I did was ~35') The end of the wire can start to curl inside in the pipe and dig in..:mad:
I got a 25mm tec screw and tied a length of polywire to it, then covered the treads with insulating tape. I then fired up the compressor and shot the screw up the tube using an air hose. You need the pressure high, the hydradare straight and the tec screw (or similar) needs to be close to the diameter of the pipe (so that it's like a bullet going up a gun barrel
)
Once the polywire is through, lap (no knots) the HT wire about 12" with the polywire and joint them together with insulating tape or duct tape.
Tie the other end of the HT wire to something solid and pull the polywire and the HT wire throught the pipe .....
Happy days
often did something similar with a vacum and an old plastic shopping bagworks a treat0 -
made a yoke for moving gates for a farmer,he farms by himself so wanted something for moving gates around for herding cows in the yard,when testing etc. it has a piece of angle iron 2ft with a wheel at each end,a small bit of box iron in middle of this to set spud of gate into and two pieces of angle that go straight up from this.small bit of flat welded at back. this is sort of a cradle around gate,simply lift one end of gate into it,gate will lie back on flat,put bolt through front and simply lift other end and push/pull gate. it will also allow the gate to stand up right.simples
:D 0 -
made a yoke for moving gates for a farmer,he farms by himself so wanted something for moving gates around for herding cows in the yard,when testing etc. it has a piece of angle iron 2ft with a wheel at each end,a small bit of box iron in middle of this to set spud of gate into and two pieces of angle that go straight up from this.small bit of flat welded at back. this is sort of a cradle around gate,simply lift one end of gate into it,gate will lie back on flat,put bolt through front and simply lift other end and push/pull gate. it will also allow the gate to stand up right.simples:D
Good idea, any photo?0 -
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Only just getting back to this, sorry for overlooking it!
God I didn't realise that Rovi. Is it the voltage going through it that causes it to break down? Had you the ends of the hydradare bent in a hoop to stop the water getting in?Also, I've found through bitter experience that hydrodare breaks down over time and allows current to leak off to earth.
For years here in the early days of electric fencers, wire was 'insulated' from the stake with bits of 1/2" hydrodare either slid onto the wire when it was going up, or split along their length and slipped over the wire, and stapled on with conventional staples.
Gaps were bridged either underground with bare wire strung through buried 1/2" hydrodare or overhead with single core insulated domestic wiring.
This 'worked' about as well as anything else at the time, and no-one knew any better anyway.
Over the years, the length of fence grew longer and the fencers evolved from battery units to various 'modern' mains units.
In the early '80s, we embarked on putting the grazing land into a proper 21-day paddocks system (all done with h-frame strainers! :rolleyes:), and all this too was done with hydrodare.
It was a constant battle to keep the fence in order, as any bit of an earth anywhere would drop the current to the point where the fence was ineffective.
Sometime in the early '90s, we got the FRS in to fence around the silage fields and a few of the paddocks.
Our eyes were opened to how a fence could be put up, and on the use of proper materials!:eek::eek::eek:
Besides now having proper insulators and underground cable in the newly fenced sections, we also installed the biggest fencer unit we could get at the time, a Cheta G303. 30 Joules of lightening in a box
Along with the first proper earth system we'd ever installed (10 x 5 foot galvanised rods in a damp patch), this gave us a fence that struck fear into both man and beast!
It also showed up the deficiencies in the old sections of fence!
It blasted through the old hydrodare 'insulators' as if they weren't there, giving us a sparkly light show around the paddocks at night and sound effects that the lads at the ploughing match with their electrocuted potato demonstration would be proud of.
It was comical how bad it was
Now, in fairness, most of the old hydrodare was years (or even decades!) of age and had been exposed to whatever weather the Irish climate had thrown at it over that time, so perhaps we shouldn't have expected too much of it, but even new hydrodare only survived a season or so against the new fencer unit.
I was told at the time that hydrodare contains carbon to make it nice and black, and that this quickly allowed the powerful fencer unit to make its way through it to earth.
Certainly, it all got replaced with modern materials over the following few years and we never had problems with earth leakage to the stakes again.
At this stage, we didn't trust the buried hydrodare either, so we pulled modern high tensile insulated wire through it and it then served merely as conduit.0 -
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This is a frame that I'm making for a secure box for my portable fencer. It will be mounted on a galvanised pole that is drove 8-10' into the ground and will also act as the earth. The 'skin' of the box will be an old tin box for suspension files. The box will be electrified, so it will insulated from the pole .... more pics to follow after some more guntering....0 -
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Didn't know where to stick this pic so said I'd stick it in here
The tail lights on trailer weren't coming on so opened the plug. Now that's one tasty wiring job and testament to the quality of Aerlite trailers.
Eventually sussed it to be oxidation on the pins. A rub of sandpaper and a fiddle with the screwdriver all as good as new 0 -
Great Idea Muckit! You should sell them.
How do you turn the fence on and off without getting a shock?
Once I place the fencer in the box and turn it on, I won't go near it til next October. The fence will be turned off by a forcefield breaker switch underneath the box. The box will remain electrified and locked though The power to this will be turned off by a keyed switch ....well that's the plan.
A bit of work, but sure it keeps me out of the pub!0 -
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