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Astec alarm

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  • 08-09-2014 4:21pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 4


    Hi

    I am looking for the installion manual for my astec alarm,im moving a couple of sensors and need to replace the battery,cant find my copy anywhere

    Thanks


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian2604 wrote: »
    Hi

    I am looking for the installion manual for my astec alarm,im moving a couple of sensors and need to replace the battery,cant find my copy anywhere

    Thanks

    Sent you the manual by P.M.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 brian2604


    Got it thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian2604 wrote: »
    Got it thanks.

    No probs, any other questions let us know :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭thurlesdrunk


    Anyone know where I could pick up some window sensors for this alarm. Need to replace 2 sensors. Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭thurlesdrunk


    Anyone know where I could pick up some window sensors for this alarm. Need to replace 2 sensors. Cheers


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Anyone know where I could pick up some window sensors for this alarm. Need to replace 2 sensors. Cheers

    Global sensors can be used as replacements for the Astec type.
    If you need to add a inertia/contact simply put a 680 ohm resistor across the reed.
    Have a look here for a local supplier.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 leonidas12


    hi all

    I have a problem with my alarm astec 63 v
    cod engineer needs to replace the battery and remove the error
    once I had saved it but now Is lost pleas for help...many thanks


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    What are you looking for? The engineer code?
    Whats the error you need to remove?


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 Chrismvideo


    Hi Altor / Koolkid..

    Like a lot if people on here I have a Astec 63 alarm installed in my house from back in 2008, I have since found out the company that installed it are out of business. I am getting the fault light and code 61 FAULT call engineer? I tried to remove the panel of the control box and the alarm outside started going off and the panel displayed TAMPER. I turned off the mains power and the orange light in the control box went off, still everytime I go to touch it the alarm goes off?
    I'm trying to replace the battery but can't seem to do anything without the alarm going off? Each time I try to enter 1744 nothing happens? Any help would be much appreciated by me and all my neighbours..

    Thanks
    Chris


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Remove the mains fuse and remove the battery link to completely power of down the system while you replace the battery.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Hi guys,
    Just thought I'd continue this thread rather than creating another one. So I've powered down and removed the battery link. Can't see the battery, I'm guessing its in the back somewhere. I read elsewhere I have to remove the PCB?

    35ml8gy.jpg

    So I have to locate the couple of screw holding the whole circuit board in place, remove them and leave the board hanging loose while I undo the battery? Is that right?

    Quite messy!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Hi guys,
    Just thought I'd continue this thread rather than creating another one. So I've powered down and removed the battery link. Can't see the battery, I'm guessing its in the back somewhere. I read elsewhere I have to remove the PCB?

    35ml8gy.jpg

    So I have to locate the couple of screw holding the whole circuit board in place, remove them and leave the board hanging loose while I undo the battery? Is that right?

    Quite messy!

    It was always a bad design for a battery location. I would just be careful not to touch the board as if you short out anything you can blow it.

    Here is the screw locations.
    The battery link is not removed in your photo.

    340813.JPG

    The battery is behind the PCB. There is also a cable tie holding it in place which needs to be removed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Thanks a million altor. Its a bit weird though I have to say. I'm trying to take the battery out now. I started by turning off the mains first. The internal alarm went off - but the battery must really be shot, because the internal ringer was going off but there wasn't power on the control panel for me to turn the alarm off. I tried removing the battery link first, and then the mains. But then the external ringer is going off - how can it be going if the mains is off and the battery link is removed?

    I can't be spending the time trying to get the battery out with bells going mad all around me!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Thanks a million altor. Its a bit weird though I have to say. I'm trying to take the battery out now. I started by turning off the mains first. The internal alarm went off - but the battery must really be shot, because the internal ringer was going off but there wasn't power on the control panel for me to turn the alarm off. I tried removing the battery link first, and then the mains. But then the external ringer is going off - how can it be going if the mains is off and the battery link is removed?

    I can't be spending the time trying to get the battery out with bells going mad all around me!

    The external bell has its own battery. When you power the system down, battery and mains this will make the bell ring for 20 minutes then turn off. Its a bit of a job due to bad design if you are not use to it but it is possible.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    altor wrote: »
    The external bell has its own battery. When you power the system down, battery and mains this will make the bell ring for 20 minutes then turn off. Its a bit of a job due to bad design if you are not use to it but it is possible.

    So would the typical electrician working on it just leave it ringing for the 20 mins, or would they enter the engineers code or something to stop the external ringer going?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    So would the typical electrician working on it just leave it ringing for the 20 mins, or would they enter the engineers code or something to stop the external ringer going?

    It would be left ringing in most cases if the engineer code was not known.
    It would not take an engineer 20 minutes to replace the battery tho :D
    The default engineer code is 1174 but as the system is down powered it will not have any effect.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    altor wrote: »
    It would be left ringing in most cases if the engineer code was not known.
    It would not take an engineer 20 minutes to replace the battery tho :D
    The default engineer code is 1174 but as the system is down powered it will not have any effect.

    I'd like to bring the battery along to the shop to be sure I'm getting the same one, so I won't have the new battery on hand to swap in quickly. So when I follow the procedure to get the battery out, and the external ringer goes off for 20 minutes, is that it? Its not going to keep going off every 15 minutes after that or anything?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    I'd like to bring the battery along to the shop to be sure I'm getting the same one, so I won't have the new battery on hand to swap in quickly. So when I follow the procedure to get the battery out, and the external ringer goes off for 20 minutes, is that it? Its not going to keep going off every 15 minutes after that or anything?

    It will go off for the 20 minutes then turn off. Its the initial trigger of having no power from the system that sets this in motion. It will not go off again till you power the system back up.

    This is the battery you need.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Thanks again altor. I'm sure its on boards here somewhere, I looked but couldn't find specifics. Is there a generic vibration(window) sensor that can be bought and made to work with the astec systems? Probably have to add a resistor I know. I'm heading to REW in Finglas later today to get the battery and a contact sensor. They have some window sensors I think, but they're about €14+VAT, which sounds pricey


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Thanks again altor. I'm sure its on boards here somewhere, I looked but couldn't find specifics. Is there a generic vibration(window) sensor that can be bought and made to work with the astec systems? Probably have to add a resistor I know. I'm heading to REW in Finglas later today to get the battery and a contact sensor. They have some window sensors I think, but they're about €14+VAT, which sounds pricey

    If its a vibration sensor any global sensor will work.
    The lads in Finglas will sort you out :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Got some generic stuff, they're a good help in there alright.
    The vibration sensors are straight forward, just put a 10k resistor across the terminals.
    The door entry sensor is a little trickier though. The guy says he believes the idea is to put two 680 ohm resistors in parallel to it, but he wouldn't give me precise instructions as he's not licensed to. Here's the back of the door entry sensor...

    2r5qdcw.jpg

    I'm guessing I need to wire it so that the alarm supply and the resistors are like below, does this look right?......

    2cen52q.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Got some generic stuff, they're a good help in there alright.
    The vibration sensors are straight forward, just put a 10k resistor across the terminals.
    The door entry sensor is a little trickier though. The guy says he believes the idea is to put two 680 ohm resistors in parallel to it, but he wouldn't give me precise instructions as he's not licensed to. Here's the back of the door entry sensor...

    2r5qdcw.jpg

    I'm guessing I need to wire it so that the alarm supply and the resistors are like below, does this look right?......

    2cen52q.jpg


    That is correct. They are not vibration sensors tho, just contacts. If the contact goes on a window it need just one 680 resistor. Vibration sensors dont need any.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    altor wrote: »
    That is correct. They are not vibration sensors tho, just contacts. .
    Yes, its the front door one
    altor wrote: »
    If the contact goes on a window it need just one 680 resistor. Vibration sensors dont need any
    So you're saying I don't need the 2 680's in parallel, just one of them? And I don't need the 10k resistor on the vibration sensor?

    I think what he said was that they will work without the resistors, but my alarm display won't tell me what zone went if it was this zone that activated it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Yes, its the front door one


    So you're saying I don't need the 2 680's in parallel, just one of them? And I don't need the 10k resistor on the vibration sensor?

    I think what he said was that they will work without the resistors, but my alarm display won't tell me what zone went if it was this zone that activated it.

    You will need the two resistors for the sensor to work as an entry/exit.
    Thats the front door sensor.

    Vibration sensors are wired in series on the alarm loop. They will work without resistors. The panel will indicate the zone activation the same way it would if an Astec type sensor was used.

    If you want to use the contacts on the windows then one 680 resistor is wired across the contact for it to work correctly on an alarm zone.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Grand, thanks a mil, you've been a great help. I'll let you know how I get on, if the neighbours haven't killed me with the outside bell going :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Grand, thanks a mil, you've been a great help. I'll let you know how I get on, if the neighbours haven't killed me with the outside bell going :)

    Haha I am sure you will be grand, if you have any other questions let us know :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    The vibration sensor has more ports than the old one did. There's a pair labelled "Tamper" and a pair labelled "Sensor". The 2 white wires from the in-built vibration sensor line up with the "Tamper" pair, so I'm guessing the wires from the alarm system are wired in here? What's the "sensor" ports for then?

    t7yhow.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    The vibration sensor has more ports than the old one did. There's a pair labelled "Tamper" and a pair labelled "Sensor". The 2 white wires from the in-built vibration sensor line up with the "Tamper" pair, so I'm guessing the wires from the alarm system are wired in here? What's the "sensor" ports for then?

    t7yhow.jpg

    If it is an end of line you will have the resistor going into the second and third terminals as you look at it. Then the two cores go into the next two. This will complete the circuit. If it is in the middle of a loop the easiest way is to put two blacks in the middle two, then two reds in the sensor terminals.

    The middle two are for the tamper spring. The sensor are for the shock head.
    Please note when fitting these the sensor has an arrow which must face up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Got the battery, door entry/exit and one of the vibration sensors fitted no bother, all seems to be working fine. External ringer only going for 7 minutes :) Thanks again


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,643 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Got the battery, door entry/exit and one of the vibration sensors fitted no bother, all seems to be working fine. External ringer only going for 7 minutes :) Thanks again

    Brilliant, delighted you got it all working :)


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