Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

How to service your car

1356789

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 76 ✭✭canon5571


    Great info here on this thread. My query may be in the wrong thread but I have a 79' MK2 ford escort with a 1600 x-flow engine. I am in the process of doing a basic service. Just on the spark plug issue, I got 4 NGK spark plugs in the autofactors. The Haynes manual says the gap should be adjusted to 0.6mm.Would a spark plug gap matter on this engine and if so, how do you gap them??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Those NGK plugs are pregapped. If you are unsure you can use a 'feeler gauge' which checks the spacing between the plug and tip. Have a look here to see how its done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    When refilling the engine with oil I fill it up half way and then run it for five minutes. This allows you to see if any leaks devolp in the filter or the sump plug. Then you can top it up until near full when the engine has cooled again.

    Do NOT OVERFILL the oil. It is almost as bad as having no oil in the engine at all.

    Another tip. When removing the sump plug remove it quickly cos if you dont, old oil will run up your sleeve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,660 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    tm2204 wrote: »
    Is the brake fluid easy to replace? Is there a single bleed point on the reservoir or do you bleed at the individual brake assemblies?

    Cheers.
    :D

    Easy as pie, just time consuming. You bleed each caliper at each wheel until the fluid runs clear, and you should start with the caliper furthest from the resevoir under the bonnet, ie, the wheel that is diagonally at the back from the resevoir at the front. You'll need a brake bleeding kit from the likes of Halfords for about €25 if you want to do it by yourself. The hardest part is getting the wheels off.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 111 ✭✭SilverHeron


    Did you use an angle grinder to cut the top off a 7-up bottle?.. . !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭Volvoboy


    Did you use an angle grinder to cut the top off a 7-up bottle?.. . !

    Yea couldnt find a blade, or sword. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    Easy as pie, just time consuming. You bleed each caliper at each wheel until the fluid runs clear, and you should start with the caliper furthest from the resevoir under the bonnet, ie, the wheel that is diagonally at the back from the resevoir at the front. You'll need a brake bleeding kit from the likes of Halfords for about €25 if you want to do it by yourself. The hardest part is getting the wheels off.

    My calipers have bleed valves on them that you just open to bleed. Whats this brake bleeding kit?

    Will bleeding all calipers empty the brake fluid reservoir and flush the system or do you need to do anything else?

    My car has ESP and ABS is there anything to factor in here due to these?

    Cheers,
    :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    The brake bleeding kit is basically a bottle fitted with a manual pump and a tube that goes down inside the bottle, tube end is placed over the bleed nipple.

    You should put some brake fluid inside the bottle, so tube is submerged and no air can enter back into the system while bleeding your brakes. You start with the side furthest away from the drivers side.

    Two man job btw, each time the brake is pumped up, and you quater turn the bleed nipple allowing fluid to enter bleedin bottle and then close the bleed nipple each time until no air bubbles are visable and fluid runs clear, also keep the brake fluid resevoir topped up cause air can enter there also. Hope this is clear enough for you to understand, I only learned to do this myself a few weeks ago, thanks to the guys advise on here. There are plenty vids on the inet illustrating this proceedure. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,660 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    You don't need to pump the brake pedal if you use a bleeding kit that attaches to a spare wheel as a source of air. You simply connect the whole lot up, open a caliper valve and let the resevoir empty to about a quarter of its capacity.

    You then fill the bleed kit bottle with new brake fluid and start the bleeding process. The pressure from the air in the spare wheel forces the old fluid out of each line and sucks in the new fluid. You just sit back and watch it do it by itself.

    All you have to do is open and close each caliper and keep the bottle topped up. Nothing to it. However its important to make sure there's no air in the lines.

    And you can bleed cars with ABS and ESP no problem, they're simply electronic systems that have little to do with the hydraulics of the brakes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭IK09


    nice one volvoboy. slick savings


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,929 ✭✭✭Raiser


    Where's good for buying tools and stuff online?

    Current shopping list is:

    Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit - Like the Draper one here http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=15478

    ShowImage.aspx?Type=3&File=DRA33606.jpg&Man=DRA&Size=200&Save=18

    A decent oil filter tool - have strap one and its a curse - Anyone recommend the best type? Is the below a good all rounder?

    media.nl;jsessionid=0a01054f1f43837f106970bd458283519f9424d1863a.e3eTaxiNaN0Te34Pa38Ta38Oahf0?id=1116&c=317638&h=a4647b2498ccdb079ac5&resizeid=-1&resizeh=150&resizew=150

    Also want to replace my brake fluid - so looking for recommendations for a decent kit - spare tyre one sounds ideal as have no helperer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,559 ✭✭✭Tipsy Mac


    Raiser wrote: »

    A decent oil filter tool - have strap one and its a curse - Anyone recommend the best type? Is the below a good all rounder?

    Really depends on where your oil filter is located, each one has it's own benefits.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,247 ✭✭✭✭Guy:Incognito


    I got one of these in Halfords (shock horror :)) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-VAN-BIKE-OIL-FILTER-REMOVER-WRENCH-REMOVAL-TOOL_W0QQitemZ280323456107QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item280323456107&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

    Its a bit different (round , grooved prongs) ,gets in to tight spots and hasnt let me down yet. Just connect it to your ratchet and away you go, the harder you turn the tighterit grips.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,929 ✭✭✭Raiser


    Thanks folks - will check it out......

    Other than that if anyone recommends any online Tool Suppliers who'll ship to Ireland reasonably then please let me know :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,570 ✭✭✭rebel.ranter


    ..... a bleeding kit that attaches to a spare wheel as a source of air......
    ........However its important to make sure there's no air in the lines.

    Hi Voodoomelon I have bled brakes the old fashioned way many times. However is the comments you make here not contradictory? Air will cause the brake fluid to go off, surely providing air into the reservoir is not helping the fluid in there?

    I know you did not design or make the kit, not having a go at you or anything, just questioning the logic of such a tool.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 624 ✭✭✭jimogr


    Basic question: For the oil change do you need to put the car on axle stands or similar?

    I've changed sparkes and coils myself but never did the oil because I assumed you'd need a lift so you can get under it - wouldn't trust a jack.

    Car's a focus


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭Volvoboy


    jimogr wrote: »
    Basic question: For the oil change do you need to put the car on axle stands or similar?

    I've changed sparkes and coils myself but never did the oil because I assumed you'd need a lift so you can get under it - wouldn't trust a jack.

    Car's a focus

    You could get axle stands in your local motor factors (at most €50 for a set)

    The jack thats in the car wouldnt be the most safest option.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,660 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    Hi Voodoomelon I have bled brakes the old fashioned way many times. However is the comments you make here not contradictory? Air will cause the brake fluid to go off, surely providing air into the reservoir is not helping the fluid in there?

    I know you did not design or make the kit, not having a go at you or anything, just questioning the logic of such a tool.

    Hi Rebel.
    The kit is designed to use air pressure to push down on the fluid thats in the resevoir, it doesn't actually introduce any air into the lines themselves. Think of it as normal atmospheric pressure pressing down on the resevoirs fluid, however many times more forceful.
    To inject air into the fluid, you would have to have a tube that actually enters the fluid in the resevoir. The kit I use creates a seal with the top of the resevoir and just compresses the fluid downwards, as opposed to actually introducing air into the fluid itself.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 11,221 ✭✭✭✭m5ex9oqjawdg2i


    A bit of a stupid question, but where exactly would the oil filter be situated? I guess it's in the same general area on the majority of cars? I have a '01 Ford Focus.

    I have a pit in my garage I can use instead of jacks and whatnot.

    I am not due a service for another few thousand miles, but it would be nice to look at before that. Thanks volvoboy :)


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,249 ✭✭✭Rowley Birkin QC


    Depends, is your car diesel or petrol?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,660 ✭✭✭Voodoomelon


    A bit of a stupid question, but where exactly would the oil filter be situated? I guess it's in the same general area on the majority of cars? I have a '01 Ford Focus.

    I have a pit in my garage I can use instead of jacks and whatnot.

    I am not due a service for another few thousand miles, but it would be nice to look at before that. Thanks volvoboy :)


    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_oil_filter_located_on_a_2001_Ford_Focus

    Engine.jpg

    The grey cylinder to the left of the focus emblem on the engine head cover im guessing. Actually that might not be it, it just looks similar to mine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    You never primed the filter. You should fill it with oil before you re-fit to ensure there are no parts not getting oil when you re-start.

    When you bleed the brakes there is a pattern you do it in depending on the design of the system.

    The gunsons kit is kinda misleading if you fire fluid into the system at 35psi or whatever your spare tyre is at, Im pretty sure you wil blow a seal. 15 psi is much more sedate.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,413 ✭✭✭HashSlinging


    I recently got my oil and oil filter changed on my car (2.0TDi) what else needs to be done as part of a service. Do I just need a fuel filter and a new air filter? car is running like its clogged up. everything else is fine. Have some new brake disks (drilled and grooved) coming my way which are going to the garage to be fitted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    I recently got my oil and oil filter changed on my car (2.0TDi) what else needs to be done as part of a service. Do I just need a fuel filter and a new air filter? car is running like its clogged up. everything else is fine. Have some new brake disks (drilled and grooved) coming my way which are going to the garage to be fitted.

    yes If your car is clogged do the fuel filter and clean your injectors, Id do you glow plugs too.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,413 ✭✭✭HashSlinging


    Think the glow plugs are ok, there is an issue with it running a bit rough at idle where it fluctuates, do you think this could be the glow plugs as the throttle body was cleaned already.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    Think the glow plugs are ok, there is an issue with it running a bit rough at idle where it fluctuates, do you think this could be the glow plugs as the throttle body was cleaned already.

    probably a vacuum leak, see if you can hear any kinda hissing noises. Check your pipes for rips etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,704 ✭✭✭Mr.David


    Think the glow plugs are ok, there is an issue with it running a bit rough at idle where it fluctuates, do you think this could be the glow plugs as the throttle body was cleaned already.

    If its not the TB, sounds like the MAF to me ....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭Captain Slow IRL


    Engine.jpg

    The grey cylinder to the left of the focus emblem on the engine head cover im guessing. Actually that might not be it, it just looks similar to mine.

    That's an engine mount - the oil filter is accesed underneath the car, I'm pretty sure it's at the front of the engine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,413 ✭✭✭HashSlinging


    Just discovered the lock nut is missing from my car :rolleyes: anyone know how to remove the nuts without the lock...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭20goto10


    Just a word of warning to any amateurs out there like myself who are attempting to do an oil change for the first time. I spent the guts of €100 on equipment (a decent jack, axle stands, oil and filter). Unfortunately I didn't get very far because the drain nut is wedged tight. I've tried and tried and tried with all my strength but the bastard thing won't budge :mad: I guess they must have screwed it tight using a heavy duty power tool.

    Now I've to spend another €130 or there abouts getting it done in a garage. Bummer eh? Should have listened to the wife when she said somethings going to go wrong :p


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,212 ✭✭✭Delta Kilo


    It shouldn't have been that tight. If you had something to slide on the end of the socket to give you more leverage it might have helped. I've also seen people levering the socket handle down with a crowbar by levering it against the sump with a piece of timber between the crowbar and the sump. Not recommended though.

    tell the mechanic not to tighten it super tight. They will have it up on a lift so they will be able to swing out of the nut. its harder to get a good pull on it when you are lying on your back.

    Not to sound as if you were a fool or anything but are you sure you were turning it the correct way? Its the opposite to what you think because it is upside down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    This very problem was recently discussed on here. Do a search and you will find the thread or maybe a good citizen of the forum will find it.

    I had this problem myself and solved it with some wd40 (it works, ok :p) and a hammer, spanner and a bit of sweet talk and off she comes. ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,509 ✭✭✭Donnelly117


    very good post, should be stickied (if it isnt already)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,280 ✭✭✭✭Eric Cartman


    Just discovered the lock nut is missing from my car :rolleyes: anyone know how to remove the nuts without the lock...

    welcome to an awful awful world my friend, i ended up paying 160 euro for the privilege of such a removal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,509 ✭✭✭Donnelly117


    Just discovered the lock nut is missing from my car :rolleyes: anyone know how to remove the nuts without the lock...
    thats the point of a locknut, it could cost a fair bit to have another one cut


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,097 ✭✭✭johndaman66


    Good thread volvoboy. Will be relied upon by many in these recessionary times no doubt I'm sure. Have always done as much work on the car as I could myself and well with the extortionate hourly rates garages and certain mechanics charge its well worth learning the basics and getting your hands dirty.

    Would you be able to advise on the procedure involved in changing a complete timing belt kit including water pump and coolant on a 99 vectra 1.6 16v please? Pretty please?:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭20goto10


    Hal1 wrote: »
    This very problem was recently discussed on here. Do a search and you will find the thread or maybe a good citizen of the forum will find it.

    I had this problem myself and solved it with some wd40 (it works, ok :p) and a hammer, spanner and a bit of sweet talk and off she comes. ;)
    I contemplated some WD40 and a hammer but I really didn't want to fcuk it up. Last thing I need is a rounded nut!! I really should have at least tried the WD40....I'll give it a go next time. I figured they've wedged this tight with a power tool and only a power tool is going to get it off. I'm booked in for a service now so I'll ask them not to tighten it too tight and give it another go in 6 months time. Very frustrating though :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 95 ✭✭stevie.enright


    Unsure if its being asked in the thread already but is anyone aware of how to remove an oil filter in a 2002 mondeo 1.8 litre? I was talking to a former Ford mechanic not too long ago and he told me it is black round yoke at the front of the engine in the middle underneath it. Thats grand I see it it and everything but can't for the life of me turn it and I wouldn't be too weak - never have a problem loosening conventional oil filters in other cars.

    Is any special tool needed to slacken it? It does turn in the same direction as per the sump bolt and which one would expect, or is it a reverse thread on it?

    Anybody out there with any knowledge of it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭blahblah06


    hi steve had the same car as you. you need to get a special tool for the fords it can either be a belt or a chain that tightens around the filter and you twist it to loosen it off. there is a name to them but I cant think of it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,513 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    blahblah06 wrote: »
    you need to get a special tool for the fords it can either be a belt or a chain that tightens around the filter and you twist it to loosen it off.
    Just called a chain wrench I think .


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    blahblah06 wrote: »
    hi steve had the same car as you. you need to get a special tool for the fords it can either be a belt or a chain that tightens around the filter and you twist it to loosen it off. there is a name to them but I cant think of it

    It's called a screwdriver. ;) Just put something underneath to soak any spillages.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,815 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    Hal1 wrote: »
    It's called a screwdriver. ;) Just put something underneath to soak any spillages.
    Dodgy advice, imo. What happens if you can't shift the oil filter after you've punctured it with the screwdriver?

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,290 ✭✭✭Ferris


    Is any special tool needed to slacken it? It does turn in the same direction as per the sump bolt and which one would expect, or is it a reverse thread on it?

    Anybody out there with any knowledge of it?

    A pair of marigolds will actually work wonders, gives you more grip.

    Pink or yellow ones work especially well:D.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    esel wrote: »
    Dodgy advice, imo. What happens if you can't shift the oil filter after you've punctured it with the screwdriver?

    That method worked for me after previous mechanic put it on too tight. Remember when doing this job OP hand tight will do and smear some oil on the thread of the oil filter before you install it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,819 ✭✭✭✭peasant


    Is any special tool needed to slacken it? It does turn in the same direction as per the sump bolt and which one would expect, or is it a reverse thread on it?

    any of these will do the trick
    400px-Oelfilterschluessel.jpg818408094383.png302.jpg35.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Just read the OP's post and dont see anywhere that the car needs to be supported by something other than the car jack, purely on safety grounds.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 246 ✭✭beachlife


    Hal1 wrote: »
    It's called a screwdriver. ;) Just put something underneath to soak any spillages.

    Think it's a cartridge type filter on that car. you only replace the element. so don't stick a screw driver near it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭Volvoboy


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    Just read the OP's post and dont see anywhere that the car needs to be supported by something other than the car jack, purely on safety grounds.

    Your right.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12 poxx


    conlonbmw wrote: »
    If you are a newbie and Plug is scaring you, then its best to have a mate with you who knows a lot more than you do when you try it.



    No you dont, stop tryin to complicate it



    Sometimes?, so then you are saying you do not need a primer all the time

    Soon many more people will realise how easy it is to service cars.

    They will realise how they have been ripped off for years by paying 200 quid for a "routine service" that has cost a garage no more than 70 quid.

    They will realise how the garage makes 25% profit on parts.

    They will finally understand that when you become skilled in mechanics that the 2 hour labour a garage charges actually only takes 40 mins to 1 hour to perform at home on your own.
    point 1 the fuel system on this car runs at a max pressure of about 1800 bar, if you have any starvation of fuel you can very easly wreck the high pressure pump or the injectors (approx 6 grand to repair complete system). also at cranking speed you are looking at around 300 bar (your tyre has a pressure of about 2 bar) if you introduce a leak on the high pressure side it will have enough pressure to pierce your skin instantly (hypodermic pressure) but you probably already knew all this as you are a SKILLED MECHANIC point 2 that takes 4 years and a good teacher not a clown with a lap top to start become one of them


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 95 ✭✭stevie.enright


    Got oil filter out with a bit of a struggle. Thanks for assistance everyone....Next job up is shocks, they need doing badly. Has anyone done this at home. Is the spring compression tool absolutely essential or there any alternatives. Remember a friend telling me before that he managed to change his without it although it was not easy. Any advice appreciated.


Advertisement