magicbastarder wrote: » ah - i had been told that condensing boilers were generally not open vented, as it allowed too much scope for corrosion!
Stove Fan wrote: » It could be that the fire isn't established enough before the coal is added and so isn't enough heat there to fully ignite it? Smokeless fuel takes more lighting so I would say use plenty of kindling or firelighters. The briquettes could well stifle the fire so I would put a layer of the coal on top of plenty of kindling and once going for 10-15 minutes put the briquettes on top. You could also leave the stove door open a crack to increase the air but do remember to close it. Stove Fan:)
mylomac wrote: » Hi Stovefan, I have taken your advice from previous queries and have a pretty good idea what I want at this stage. In summary, I am adding a bolier stove in the main room of a bungalow, either a Boru Carrickmore 20K (which my sister has had for the last year and is delighted with) or an Arrow EB12HE (recommended by yourself).The pipes will be running up from the stove to a new dual/triple coil cylinder in the attic. I have spoken to one plumber and am getting a quote from another. I have a few points that I hope you can clarify please. 1. I understand that the hot water pipe from the stove should rise to the cylinder to allow the garvity system to work. Can the return take the same route or are there any restrictions on how the return is routed. 2. There isnt an existing fireplace but the stove will be on an external wall and I can put in a new chimney and go to roof ridge level for around the cost of the metal flue, If I am exiting the stove into the chimney, does the choice of back or top exit from the stove make much of a difference in terms of the smoke draw - or should it all work pretty well via the chimney. 3. I understand that a 'leak radiator' can be used to dissipate heat in the gravity system. Is this just a normal rad ? Where should it be positioned in the system - does it have to be the first rad that is fed in the system ? 4. Is there a way of bypassing the cylinder via a thermostat when the water reaches the desired level ? Is there a switch or a valve that can be used ? Thanks for any help.
kali23 wrote: » Hi Stove Fan, I have taken your advice and purchased a morso squirrel this afternoon for the sitting room/non-boiler stove in my house. While I was in the stove shop, I was pointed in the direction of a Charnwood 16B boiler stove for the kitchen and I was wondering do you think this stove is a good choice for the Kitchen/boiler stove for the space I want to heat. Thanks again for all the info.
nowhere2beseen wrote: » hi just need some advice,putting a stove into a bungalow and have to rise the pipe into the attic,could i put a pump on in the attic to pump down into the cylinder and on passed into the the flow for the old gas boiler and then use the old pump thats on the rads circuit to pump the hot water around the house? was going to use a second 3 port valve on the pipes coming down from attic,so when cylinder gets up to temp you would have two pumps pumping around a not very big heating circuit would just like some opinions to know would this be safe first of all and would it work?
kali23 wrote: » The lady in the shop told me her sister has the same stove and heats 16 rads and she has another customer who heats 22 rads from the Charnwood 16b. The single rads in our house will be 9 1200x500 5 1400-1600x500 And one small rad in the hot press. I haven't seen the aarrow but I did contact one of the boiler stove companies whose link u posted and even though they have it listed on their website they told me they stopped stocking that stove as it was too troublesome??!!
kali23 wrote: » Hi Stove Fan, Thanks again for all that advice, the stove they were trying to sell me was a Hestia. I hadn't heard of it before and so I didn't contact them after that. He didn't specify the problems with the aarow and to be honest I didn't ask him to once I heard he didn't stock them. I am concerned that I was strongly advised to put in the Charnwood and obviously that won't be sufficient to heat my house. I was told that their spec was based on burning wood and I would probably get more Kw's out of the boiler burning turf/briquettes/coal & basically because these other customers were able to heat roughly the same number of rads that I would too. I find it unbelievable that I could be told this information especially as I am hoping to heat my house solely by this boiler! Sorry, can I just ask is the EB20 7kw to room? If so does that mean it has a boiler of 13kw? Is the EB25 on sale yet? On their website it says 'coming soon.'
jameshayes wrote: » Lads, I have a question about installing a stove... the stove (stanley Oisin) will be located in my sitting room, in front of a flush wall which has a chimney at the other side, the stove will sit about 250mm off the ground on a platform and the flue pip will go straight up for 1.5 flue lengths then a 45 into the wall and chimney (another 45 in the chimney also) my question is, do I need to do anything to the wall that will be behind the stove, it is a solid wall with plaster and skim over it.. Any help appreciated..
Stove Fan wrote: » Hi, so long as the wall is solid and isn't drylined or has wallpaper or gloss paint it will be fine as is. It may crack the plaster due to the heat from the stove but you could if you wanted clad the wall behind with a vermiculite board and emulsion it in the same colour as the wall. Stove Fan:)
jameshayes wrote: » Thanks again man! picked up the stove on the weekend but got they gave me the wrong colour flue pipe!!! Just a confirmation of a question - where the flue pipe enters the wall in my sitting room, is it ok for this to be just regular 5'' flue pipe - doesn't need to be twin wall or anything special? Thanks!
Stove Fan wrote: » It's ok in singlewall pipe if it's going into a masonry chimney and the flue pipe isn't passing through a cavity wall or anything combustible inside. So long as everything it passes through is non combustible, ie solid masonry, then your fine in single walled pipe. If on the other hand it was going through the wall to a new twinwall chimney then the twinwall should start inside the building and then go through the wall. Ie singlewall pipe from stove max 1.5metre then 45 degree bend with sootdoor, then into twinwall insulated flue through wall and rest of the flue run. Stove Fan:)
paddy147 wrote: » The amount of threads getting posted each day about stoves is unreal and taking away from other plumbing issues. Can I suggest to the members and also the mods a dedicated "sticky" thread about stoves and nothing else. Thanks.:)Hi Folks. This sticky has been suggested by a regular poster and contributed to quite well. It seems to have generated a lot of interest. While advertising is not permitted under forum charter a balanced view of multiple suppliers is allowed. The rule of thumb is if you are unsure just ask. But keeping it simple and discussing the techanical details of multiple suppliers will be safe. Keep pricing out of the thread and only reply if requested to by PM -Personal message. An instant permant ban will result for breach of charter on advertising.
greentoes wrote: » hi i have a solid fuel stove with a direct feed to my cylinder also a feed to my heating system,at the moment i cant heat my cylinder due to the hot water flowing in the wrong direction thus causing the system to pitch.it has happened before and i fixed it by putting on the oil boiler which drew the hot water from the back of the solid boiler.Not so this time what is the best solution ,thanks greentoes
Ludi wrote: » Hi Stove Fan New to Boards.ie. Have been reading this thread with interest. We are looking into installing an inset boiler stove in our sitting room which will heat our water and 12 radiators. Don't want a free standing stove as don't think it would look well in sitting room. We currently have OFCH that heats our bungalow but want to utilise the heat from the open fire in sitting room. Have been looking around the net for suitable stove and would welcome some advice. Sitting room is 16ft x 16ft and the 12 radiator sizes are as follows Kitchen/Dining room 1400x500 Double/700x500 Double Sitting room 1600x500 Double Hall 1400x500 single Utility 900x500 single bedroom 1100x500 single bedroom 1100x500 single bathroom 1000x500 single corridor 900x500 single bedroom 1800x500 single bedroom 1800x500 single ensuite 600x500 single What size stove would we need Many thanks
Stove Fan wrote: » Hi based on 11 radiators and heating the hot water you need a stove with a 15 kw output boiler. Your sitting room size depending on insulation requires anything from 3-5kw to heat this room. I'm guessing your bungalow has reasonable insulation as the double rad in the sitting room has an output of around 2.5kw. This rad would be switched off as the stove would heat this space. I would say the Aarrow EB12HE inset might be a possible providing some of the rads had thermostatic rad valves fitted and were not all on full. The EB12HE stove produces max 12kw to water and 5kw to the room. You would leave the door open to other room(s) to let any excess heat escape. Your oil system would need to be an open vented system and not a sealed/pressurised system. A plumber could check this for you as most boiler stoves need to be installed on an open vented system. Stove Fan:)
Ludi wrote: » Hi Stove Fan Many thanks for your reply. All your time must be spent replying to all the queries. We have an F&E Tank in the attic so presume the central heating is open vented. House was insulated last year in both cavity walls and attic. Is it possible to run both OFCH and boiler stove at the same time? I know we have a single coil hot tank, so this would need to be replaced with a double coil
Stove Fan wrote: » Hi, having looked at the pictures and clearance requirements I personally think the stove would have to come out further to clear the timber door/window and in my opinion it's just too tight a space and may look a bit odd being brought forward. Theoretically it's possible as the stove should be 200mm away but I always air on the side of caution as some new owner may fit curtains/blinds to the window and not realise. I would certainly imagine this stove has a heat shield to help with being installed into a tight space. Could the stove go where the oil filled rad is, or somewhere else in this room? The position where the gas heater is the flue would be very near in line with the roof valley. I personally feel the stove would be better placed and flued out the other side of the ridge to the right of the valley. That particular manufacturers state 1.5metres of flue can run above the roof unsupported. In your case I would run the flue internal for neatness using the appropriate supports etc. There would be no problem with going through the wood ceiling. There would be a decorative steel plate fitted either square or circular as the wood around the pipe has to be cut away to the recommended clearance, this plate is a decorative cover. No idea on cost but say 100 euro a metre for flue plus bends. Stove Fan:)
SmithySeller wrote: » Hi Stove Fan, thanks for your advice. I have decided to change tack, and Im considering placing the stove on the far side, on the opposite side to each valley and opposite the sliding doors. This way the flue can have a straight climb of at least 4metres internally before reaching the wooden vaulted ceiling. Out of interest if you look at the photos again you will see a Gallery upstairs (great for heat loss ) this has about 10 metres squared of floor space and three bedrooms totalling about another 35 square metres. The stairs from the hall also leads up to the Gallery on the far side. The sunroom where the stove will be placed is about 4.5x4.5x4.8, given the heat loss through the Gallery what output stove do you think I should go for? I guess I might as well try heat the bedrooms while Im at it given all the heat is going up there anyhow. And would a convection based stove be better suited? Any recommendations? Ive attached a couple more photos as reminder, stove would placed about three feet to the right of the middle of the long couch, and thanks again
SmithySeller wrote: » Its a new house, the insulation upstairs is excellent and retains heat pretty well. Its more the design that makes the sunroom (our main TV room) difficult to heat. I have a gas stove that is 3kw and electric that is also 3kw and when both are running they heat the room just fine. But its not sustainable to keep them running through the whole winter. I assume you mean 9/11kw nominal output?
