Probably the easiest way would be to use a multimeter such as this one where you place the wire in the middle and it should keep you a good estimation of the amount of amps flowing through the wire.
You can use an ordinary multimeter although that is more complicated since you need to connect the battery and motor in a series where the current flows through the multimeter.
Has anyone ever had the rim separate on a rear campag zonda wheel? I have attached a picture of the damage. It happened suddenly yesterday on a spin and caused the tyre to blowout. I don't know what caused it. The wheel only has about 8 thousand kilometers on it.
Wow. I'm assuming it's rim brake. Is there a possibility there was a small stone got embedded in the brake pad and ate through it? I did have something similar happen on a cheap beater with v brakes years ago when I didn't know any better (or less charitably to myself didn't pay enough attention) and let the brake pad wear down too much so that some metal bit of the caliper came in contact with the braking track and made very short work of it. I don't recall there being any telltale screeching
Seen it happen before. It usually happens when the rim is worn too thin. Rim brake wheels will wear out over time and the rate of wear is accelerated in winter when grit gets caught in the brake pads. It acts like sandpaper and wears away the rim. Can you take a photo of the braking track? Is it an old wheel?
Most rims have wear indicator holes in them. Once the rim wears down and the holes are no longer visible, that’s when the wheels should be replaced.
Can anyone recommend a decent CO2 valve/pump? Thanks
Cheers I brought it to the bike shop and he said the braking surface was fairly worn alright. The wheel was only 3 years old. I thought I would have gotten another season out of it
Stripped the head of a bolt when adjusting brake calipers, any tips on how to address? Disc rubbing but can't get the bolt loose now 😭
Presume it's an Allen head? If you can get a torx bit that's slightly too big and (gently) hammer it in, you might be able to get it to turn.
Otherwise, if you have, or can get, a Dremel tool, you can cut a slot for a flat head screw driver in the head of the fastener.
Thank you! Don't suppose you know how I could source a replacement bolt by any chance? Running DI2 160mm rotors
had same prob with my 830, contacted Garmin support , EU (not uk) by phone, got a refurb unit FOC after sending back old unit to their distributor here in ireland JDM? in bray. garmin will send you a link for a UPS label to do this .. u pack it up (just the head unit) and after about 3 weeks ur refub should arrive. that particular problem is well known ....support will ask for the serial number on the broken unit
https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058317002/contact-garmin-support/p1
Cheers for that and the link to your original thread. I'll get on to them so
I'm planning a new gravel build and considering trying SRAM Rival AXS. I'm not sure if I want 1x or 2x yet but considering buying a 1x groupset to start off.
Just wondering if I did buy a full 1x groupset, if a 2x conversion is possible in the future (with new FD and crankset), or if I would also need a new shifter?
I'm not used to SRAM at all but for example with a Shimano GRX groupset, if you go 1x the left shifter doesn't shift
Simple connectors (took off the plastic casing) did the job - then wrapped with shrinking cable, cables were initially connected by rubbing the wires together and they were at right angles to the flow of current which I suspect was reason lights not working.
Little update, fitted a CS-M7000 on the bike. Still same chain and length 114 I think, but needed a longer b screw to push the derailleur for the 40. Bit ghetto and I'd only want to use the first 7 or so gears in the small ring the last last 7 or so in the big ring. Derailleur looks mad how far its out from the cassette on some gears but shifting is grand, maybe not as smooth as i'd like but could probably spend longer re-indexing.
Have a new chain which would probs help with not needing a longer b screw...
More an opinion than a maintainence thread, I want to get a fixed wheel for my commute. Is there anyone with any experience with the Gipiemme Track Wheels. I remember them as PXs budget buy ins but no sense of if they will be any use https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/gipiemme-pista-fixed-wheel-set/138881863/p?queryID=da65f4d8e4023a01b8fa996ae030cd15&buscador_search
The other option is a set of DT Swiss 1800 but they are half the price of the bike. and it is only for commuting.
Just to close out on this, I contacted Giant Dublin about replacing the freehub when it failed less than a year old. They said that the inners of the freehub are not servicable. They suggested that it may have failed due to the way I washed the bike, i.e. using Muc Off and washing up liquid. They needed to see the bike in person. To get the job over and done with I just called into a local bike store and ordered a replacement freehub off a local Giant store for 40 quid. As its a commuter bike I couldnt go without it even for one day, which would mean repairing it myself.
Thankfully, the bike is now back and running again after receiving the new freehub.
Tidy
Forgot to put the torque washer back on the rear wheel of the bike after fixing a puncture. Will i wreck it if i cycle it?
I've an issue taking the bloody wheel off again, because i stripped a bolt holding another torque washer in place (electric bike).
Honestly, I'd deal with the stripped fastener now while you can in the comfort of your shed/house, rather than having to deal with it out on the road with no tools etc.
Get it on now, as said above, it also acts as a spacer, and you run the risk of it coming loose, threading and so on. Nothing might happen but if it does you will be so annoyed you didn't change.
Got it back on. Had to battle with the allen screw that was stripped. Pain in the rear.
Anyone know if/When Hydraulic brake fluid should be replaced?
I would not be changing the fluid in my brakes unless braking performance gave me a reason to
That's the answer i wanted to hear. Thanks!
Replaced chain and cassette one month ago and gears worked perfectly. There were skipping prior to this, however once I changed them, they worked spot on.
Over the past few days, they have started to skip again. Should I oil/lube the chain already. Could the cold also impact the gears? Any ideas?
Can you tell us how old the bike is? Can you take a picture of the chainring to put up? Are you able to tell us it indexed correctly?
The bike is 6 years old. Replaced the chain and the high gears slipped. Replaced the cassette with an identical set up. Didn't touch the indexing. Once I replaced the cassette, bike gears were like new. No issues. Since last Sunday, the gears have started to slip. I haven't lubed the new chain as typically you get a month or two before you need to. The chain seems like it could do with some lubed. Bike is a hybrid.
Have a look at the gear cables.
Check the metal inner cables and the plastic outers. Sometimes the inners fray or the outers split.
Also check the rear derailleur. Grab the cage, where the lower jockey wheel is, and move it from side to side. If it’s sloppy, that could be your issue.
Or it could just be indexing. Some photos might help narrow it down 👍
Picture of the chainrings as well if its 6 years old and has had good amount of use.
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