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Heat Pumps - post here.

17475777980118

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 151 ✭✭Stefs_42


    Good to know about double glazing. To upgrade now to tripple would be a huge upgrade cost. I heard that regular double glazed windows can be upgraded to E profile glass. Meant to work almost as good as tripple glazing in regards to heat losses.

    Forgot to mention my house is BER rated B2, not perfect for HP but still.

    I also do have a PV array 4.6 Kw, so during brighter days I should be covered by my own generated electricity.

    4000KWh for HP alone? And what would be average daily consumption then? If we do a rough estimate 4000* 0.50 (day rate say) = 2000 e in heating costs per year...my oil consumption would be roughly 1000 euro/Annualy



  • Registered Users Posts: 10,803 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Well most of your heating load is probably going to be at night when it's colder


    FWIW, yesterday my house consumed 43kWh from the grid, but I'm pretty sure 13kWh was for my wife charging her car. So probably around 20kWh for the heat pump, most of it at night

    You can also get heat pump integration with solar PV, so it can do things like prefer to heat when there's excess solar PV

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,135 ✭✭✭kabakuyu


    If your house in air tight enough for a heat pump it should also keep in the heat from the oil very efficiently.I would not change an oil burner if I was only using 1000l a year unless the boiler is ancient and I had a heat loss survey done by an independent engineer, there some out there installing HP in unsuitable houses and trying to make a quick sale.

    Also be aware of the financial implications, 1000l oil will cost 1150E(could go up or down) and electricity costs(could go up or down) for heat pump could be 6-700E per year on a Correctly installed HP.If you are paying in the region of 12k+ for HP be aware of pay back time if that is a concern of yours.

    BTW,how old is your oil burner, also what type of insulation do you have?

    Also look here https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058278528/boiler-to-heat-pump-switchers-are-you-still-happy#latest



  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭plasterman


    We extended and would have to double the number of metres (vertical bore) to have the correct number for the new size of the house. What the difference would be to the performance of the geothermal with the existing bores nobody can tell me just that it's 50% of the correct size, but it would be messy digging up the garden anyway, it's not just drilling, we'd have to trace the existing pipes too, I've no idea where they are. And I've gotten quotes for 40-50 euro a meter which is prohibitive in itself. So I'm going to switch to ASHP. It's a pity to lose the the geothermal but the performance of the ASHP will be acceptable. Just starting to get quotes for ASHP but it's extremely difficult to get people to even come out to look and quote.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,144 ✭✭✭Ballyv24


    Thanks for the follow up. I am going to hold off looking to upgrade my system. Suppliers and supply chain seem to be blocked so I am going to wait until things settle down



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,595 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Thanks all for the info being posted.

    Hopefully having an air tightness test next week. Need to go round the house with a fine tooth comb to seal those last few penetrations, pipes into the attic from hot press being one.



  • Registered Users Posts: 151 ✭✭Stefs_42


    All very valid points! Thnaks for all suggestions.

    Boiler has actually been just replaced 2 years ago. But Im willing to sacrifice that to get peace of mind of not having to chase for cheapest oil quotes online. On top of oil I supplement house heating with stove with a back boiler. So thats another cost on coal and firewood. I had heat loss survey done last year and my house been deemed good enough for HP install even with double glazing. All walls pumped and attic packed. Was thinking maybe spray foaming attic to create even better insulation. Has anybody done that, any comments, guys?

    What you are saying average HP unit might cost only 12k? Surely thats an outtdated info? And what route should I go, take a grant or do cash deal and possible save some?



  • Registered Users Posts: 151 ✭✭Stefs_42


    Thats huge consumption! My average daily would be around 17kWh. I do too have an EV but Im on free Sunday deal with boargais, but thats another story



  • Registered Users Posts: 151 ✭✭Stefs_42


    What about lifespan and maintenance costs on HP. What would be average lifespan of HP and does its efficiency deteriorate from year to year, e.g. would you see energy consumption increase or heat output decrease? Does HP have to be serviced annually what does the service entail and average cost of it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 10,803 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    That was one of the coldest days of the year so far to be fair

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,135 ✭✭✭kabakuyu


    What price are they quoting for HP plus insatallation?A grant job will cost more as the installer usually takes the grant for themselves but he will have to do it correctly to satisfy SEAI regs.

    TBH I would not be ripping out a 2 yr old boiler to put in a HP, and I think you will also find that if the HP does not live up to your expectations you will still need solid fuel back up.I would keep oil for another 3 years, see how prices fare out and what new technologies emerge(supposed to be a cheaper HP on the horizon that could be used with existing plumbing)

    Spray foam is not usually recommended, do a search here for info.

    Oil prices daily for homeowners here https://www.cheapestoil.ie/



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,773 ✭✭✭PowerToWait


    I’ve a HP and wouldn’t be pulling out a new boiler to replace with A2W in an A2 build with excellent air tightness, never mind B2.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Absolutely. Our HP was put in as part of a full refurb, rewiring, replumbing, everything.

    If you've a relatively new boiler or other heat source the payback would be too long. Our boiler was well past it's best days before we started the work so it made sense to go HP instead of new boiler and hot tank.

    If your boiler breaks or is on the way out and your house is suitable then you've a decision to make on HP.



  • Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭redmagic68


    Your heat pump, expansion vessels, stats, controllers and manifolds should be checked over annually. It cost us €200 generally takes 2-4 hours. Heatpump is currently 12 years old and it should run for 20 at least. I haven’t noticed an increase in energy usage or fall off in output over the time. More modern pumps will give much more detail in terms of usage output and cop.

    8.4 kwp east/west Louth,6kw sofar, 9.6kwh batt



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w


    I have a joule/Samsung HP system, UFH and rads upstairs...we have 2 zones downstairs and upstairs (controlled by touchscreen panels on the wall)...

    Have the temp set to 20°c...HP is still using a good amount of power ...367kWh so far in January...

    Anyone have any suggestions for getting this under control



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,473 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Is this just doing your space heating or is doing you hot water showers as well?

    Just to let you you know I have a Joule/Samsung 12kW system which does all my heating and hot water for a 200m2 A1 rated house and I used 600 kWh so far in Jan...you might not be that bad..

    Unless Im doing terrible but I am watching it and I dont think so. Dec/Jan will be your most expensive months anyway you are just shifting oil or Gas kWh into Electricity.

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,473 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Here is my HP energy consumption profile for the year. This is a moving 7 day average to smooth out the ups and downs.

    That big peak was the really cold snap in December, we had another cold snap last week that bumped it up a bit. But during the winter months Im doing 20-25kWh/day and during the non heating months 2.5- 7.5 kWh a day.

    200m2 A1 Rated house with 4 adults and lots of showers.


    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,479 ✭✭✭thomas 123


    Hi folks,

    About to break ground on a 2000 SQFT Bungalow. House is designed to be A2, new block built, with 200mm pumped bead in the walls and all the insulation elsewhere to bring it to a2. UFH.

    Looking for recommendations for

    • A2W unit, ideally with reverse cycle function. We don't have money to burn, so I am after value for money balanced with performance. This is an area I will be happy to spend for quality.
    • Any reputable companies operating in the west of the country


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    If it's an area you are happy to spend then a ground source is more efficient than an A2W but not always practical for a refurb, but might be for a new build. Could be mistaken but reverse cycle is typically heating inside the home as in standard in this part of the world.

    If your insulation and air tightness is to spec you'll need to think about how to cool place down in rooms you've any south facing windows. I'm heading towards AC at this stage I think. Hopefully with solar panels to make the cooling "free"



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    You probably just need to reset your thinking. I panicked about electricity usage until I realised I don't have the gas bill for heating to go with it anymore. Overall despite the increased energy prices I'm still saving Vs pre refurb days.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,758 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    That's 16kwh a day. That's pretty reasonable.

    How much gas/oil would you have used in your previous house in the same period?



  • Registered Users Posts: 984 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    I have a house just over 200sqm so not too far off the size you're building.

    Fitted with a NIBE 8kW A2W unit which I use for DHW, heating and cooling. I assume the reverse cycle you mean is cooling also.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w


    That's just from the HP, not including the rest of the gaff



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,758 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Still very reasonable for January, and it's only recently got warm.

    If you consider.. if you had a electric radiator running for 8-10 hrs would use the same power.. and only heating 1 room.

    It is also doing you DHW too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 10,803 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Do not buy a Dimplex, I have one and while it works fine, that's all the positive things I have to say about it


    Get a reputable brand with lots of experience, Daikin, Mitsubishi and Panasonic are 3 I can think of off the top of my head. They all have models that allow cooling as well


    Consider the support options after installation. For example there's one company that handles all the support for my area so I'm stuck with them for organising a service

    Ideally try to give yourself some options

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,316 ✭✭✭lafors


    How are you guys working out what energy the heat pump is using? I can see what output I'm getting from it for heating and hot water but I don't see an input kWh that it's using. It's a Nibe VVM S320 connected to an Air Source Nibe F2040-12.

    The MyUplink App is fine but pretty basic, there is a Pro subscription but it looks like it's only for historical data.

    Any help would be appreciated.



  • Registered Users Posts: 782 ✭✭✭Dolbhad


    Hello everyone. Really interesting thread. We are in a 4 bed 1980’s detached bungalow. It’s a c3 heated by gas boiler. We have a stove also. Our plan was as it was meant to be a forever home, to upgrade in future

    Due to change in living circumstances (moving closer to family) we are looking at purchasing a4 bed semi detached house. It’s a ecodan air source heat pump. But it will be rads on both floors - not under flooring heating.

    My understanding is underfloor would be better as may heat up quicker than rads. But dads should be able to maintain the same heat.

    Just wondering if anybody has rads instead of under floor heating and if so, how do you find it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,461 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    Not sure about heat up quicker but it should be able to maintain lower flow temps because of the increased surface area with underfloor.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,758 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Underfloor is usually slower to heat a room than radiators. But take more energy to heat up.. but retain and emit the heat longer. So when it is warm, it will stay warm for longer



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