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Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

How about using this thread to show off our engineering skills (or lack of!)
A lot of us have home made or improvised labour saving tools / implements lying around. Similar to stuff in Farmers Journal labour saving compettions. (without the prize money:p).

Maybe we could use this thread to share interesting ideas and discuss improvements.

I don't have any pictures at the moment of my own but I will take some at the weekend if not before.

My own projects include:
Quick hitch for front loader (fairly rough but works), designed to fit Trima implements onto MF loader.
Adapter to fit bale lifter onto front loader.
Various other loader attachments spikes etc.

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

Their maybe other stuff around too, I'll have to have a look.

So what are peoples opinions, is this a good idea for a thread?

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Donald Trump

MIKEKC wrote: »

Didn't realise a tractor was insured to draw 3 trailers, no lights , indicators

Seems a very dangerous set up. Trailers would be twisting and jack-knifing every way if he had to try to stop suddenly going down a hill. Bale rolling off in front of an on-coming car wouldn't be too good!

You'd be even depending on the bale not sliding forward or backward for the balancing.

foxy farmer

One for the "rooter" thread.

wrangler

MIKEKC wrote: »

Didn't realise a tractor was insured to draw 3 trailers, no lights , indicators

Ya wouldn't want to criticise tractor lights on here, would you now. Reggie.

:D:D:D

_Brian

It feels like this belongs in the guntering thread

https://ibb.co/6ytnNBs

😂

blue5000

_Brian wrote: »

It feels like this belongs in the guntering thread

https://ibb.co/6ytnNBs

😂

That reminds me, is Paddy Mitchell open these days? I'll be passing through Tullamore later this week.:D

Nekarsulm

zetecescort wrote: »

was sent this from a friend before Christmas. would like to see how he loads it.

I'd like to see him reverse it...

Reggie.

wrangler wrote: »

Ya wouldn't want to criticise tractor lights on here, would you now. Reggie. :D:D:D

No you can work away on the tractor. Its mowers that are the issue

Markcheese

Looking at it first I thought they might be self loading bale trailers , ( drive onto the bale then either which or lever it back ) , and was thinking could be handy for a mini-tractor or quad , dangerous as a roadtrain but still ... But on closer inspection ,that's a serious kludge ,

Say my name

Markcheese wrote: »

Looking at it first I thought they might be self loading bale trailers , ( drive onto the bale then either which or lever it back ) , and was thinking could be handy for a mini-tractor or quad , dangerous as a roadtrain but still ... But on closer inspection ,that's a serious kludge ,

It must be an open farm.
Take the bales off. Attach blue barrels or similar. Charge parents €3 a toddler in the barrel. Drive off then with your ford and toddler road train around the farm.

The above was the farmer having no bale trailer using what they had or just a publicity plot or maybe all.

Figerty

Markcheese wrote: »

Looking at it first I thought they might be self loading bale trailers , ( drive onto the bale then either which or lever it back ) , and was thinking could be handy for a mini-tractor or quad , dangerous as a roadtrain but still ... But on closer inspection ,that's a serious kludge ,

Circle the wagons so each trailer has it's rear end facing out. Load each tralier (from the last to the first I presume) Load up the back of the tractor, load of the front.. pick up hitch and drive on..
Choo,, Choo....road train...

chooseusername

Figerty wrote: »

Circle the wagons so each trailer has it's rear end facing out. Load each tralier (from the last to the first I presume) Load up the back of the tractor, load of the front.. pick up hitch and drive on..
Choo,, Choo....road train...

And don't forget to paint the reg. number and tail-lights on the back bale

Jb1989

chooseusername wrote: »

And don't forget to paint the reg. number and tail-lights on the back bale

Painting the taillights, that's hilarious lol. Reggie are you listening

Reggie.

Jb1989 wrote: »

Painting the taillights, that's hilarious lol. Reggie are you listening

No no. I'm all legit

DJ98

Maybe this is a stupid question, but going to give the old leyland 262 a fresh lick of paint as something to do during this latest lockdown. My question is what would be the best way of removing the old paint and rust from body and loader?

Kevhog1988

DJ98 wrote: »

Maybe this is a stupid question, but going to give the old leyland 262 a fresh lick of paint as something to do during this latest lockdown. My question is what would be the best way of removing the old paint and rust from body and loader?

Sand blast it if you can

DJ98

Kevhog1988 wrote: »

Sand blast it if you can

Sand blasting wouldn't be an option, I was thinking something more along the lines of using the grinder, but then maybe that wouldn't work, first time doing anything like this

zetecescort

Grinder will do fine with flap discs. Wire wheels work too. Just remember to wear goggles and dust mask

DJ98

zetecescort wrote: »

Grinder will do fine with flap discs. Wire wheels work too. Just remember to wear goggles and dust mask

What grit flap disc would be required?

emaherx

zetecescort wrote: »

Grinder will do fine with flap discs. Wire wheels work too. Just remember to wear goggles and dust mask

I find a needle gun does a good job in area's that the grinder won't reach.

have2flushtwice

sandpaper with a piece of timber behind it.
The discs may leave swirl marks.
If it's for your self and your keeping it the sandpaper is the budget option. buy a roll not sheets. then blow it odd with the compressor airline. 20 quid will buy a 2 ft long nozzle with trigger and get into all those corners to remove loose stuff. I got 1 in proweld in athlone, don't know how I managed with the short one.

Figerty

Meant to up load this before now.
Last time I put it up it wasn't finished. Just some wiring bugs to sort.
Bottom section of bonnet, and wings, and wheel outer hubs are new.

Was advised against sandblasting the body as the grits will get in around seals and wear against them over time. Lads that told me know what they are doing.

This isn't a vintage rally tractor, it's a working tractor gone back to it's original yellow UK county council or small airport colour.

Only real upgrade is I have to wire in a phone/charger socket safely. I have someone coming to check that out for me.

Odelay

Figerty wrote: »

Meant to up load this before now.
Last time I put it up it wasn't finished. Just some wiring bugs to sort.
Bottom section of bonnet, and wings, and wheel outer hubs are new.

Was advised against sandblasting the body as the grits will get in around seals and wear against them over time. Lads that told me know what they are doing.

This isn't a vintage rally tractor, it's a working tractor gone back to it's original yellow UK county council or small airport colour.

Only real upgrade is I have to wire in a phone/charger socket safely. I have someone coming to check that out for me.

Oh yeah! Now you're talking! Need more pics.

blue5000

Nice job there f.

wrangler

Figerty wrote: »

Meant to up load this before now.
Last time I put it up it wasn't finished. Just some wiring bugs to sort.
Bottom section of bonnet, and wings, and wheel outer hubs are new.

Was advised against sandblasting the body as the grits will get in around seals and wear against them over time. Lads that told me know what they are doing.

This isn't a vintage rally tractor, it's a working tractor gone back to it's original yellow UK county council or small airport colour.

Only real upgrade is I have to wire in a phone/charger socket safely. I have someone coming to check that out for me.

Some of those yellow tractors had a high top gear, has that one got it

Figerty

wrangler wrote: »

Some of those yellow tractors had a high top gear, has that one got it

Not as a fast as a dexta. The dextas with the high gears were little rockets on the road.
This is a farily basic 1962 modle. It had dual brakes but they were removed about 20 years ago. I'm sorry now that was done, but most of this type have changed them as they were hard to get working. That, and the little unit to stop the trottle handle moving were pretty much all that were differnt with this model to standard from what I can see.

A good indicator of it's age is the hydrualic pump doesn't have a filter going into it.. I'd prefer it if it had.

Figerty

Odelay wrote: »

Oh yeah! Now you're talking! Need more pics.

I'll see what I can dig out. I lost most on a banjaxed phone of the worst of it.
But this is what I started with on the bonnet...

And yes,, that is a dog trying to herd cats..

Micheal H

DJ98 wrote: »

What grit flap disc would be required?

Instead of a flap disc I'd use a polycarbide abrasive disc, especially if you're taking paint and rust off thinner body panels as it won't damage the sound metal underneath.

Lime Tree Farm

revive a flat battery - is it worth it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYXx70MqJ-0

patsy_mccabe

Lime Tree Farm wrote: »

revive a flat battery - is it worth it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYXx70MqJ-0

You need a 200 amp charger.

i think my Lidl charger is only 5 amps.

Lime Tree Farm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

You need a 200 amp charger. i think my Lidl charger is only 5 amps.

I didn't realise that, that bit went over my head. Charger here, 8 amps, is years old.

Is a 200 amp for commercial use only?