south wrote: » I think I may have gone wrong somewhere, the heating is working as it should but I noticed the other day that while the downstairs heating comes on as scheduled it also lights up the hot water valve and heats the water. It also doesn't show up in the app that the water is turned on. It's great having hot water most of the time but it's probably costing me more than it should.
deezell wrote: » If you want to have a crack at the installer mode, page 14 below, work though the options and turn HW mode on, your app should recognise this and enable the HW timer. Alternatively, drop support a line and ask for HW on, two wired stats. You did pop the mode jumper into position 2, with the dot on the bottom?https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KRGbtTNoust23GEX3lXtgx6akSbArrJx/view?usp=drivesdk
eddiem74 wrote: » If going with Drayton instead of Tado, I believe this is what I need, correct?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drayton-Heating-Radiator-Thermostat-Amazon/dp/B075GNJ7ZN They don't seem to do deals on the radiator thermostats that I can see, only sell individual?
eddiem74 wrote: » I have the following set-up and was wondering what Tado gear I should go after. Boiler: Vokera Mynute 28eZones: 3 : upstairs, downstairs, & waterTimer/Clock: next to boiler a timer that lets me schedule 3 times per zone, plus manual boost.Thermostats: Nothing on any wallRadiators: 5 downstairs, 7 upstairs with vertical thermostatic values (>15years old)
deezell wrote: » Has the Geasslin timer been removed? It would make sense that the old stats need to turned up to provide continuity to the circulation pump (pumps?) whose power is provided by the nest., but this doesn't explain how it was still circulating after the scheduled nest heating event ended. It's possible those stats supply zone valves, and they may well have a relay connection directly back to the boiler to fire it, independent of your original grasslin timer. In this case though the heating should cease when the timed interval ends, regardless of it comes from the nest or the Grasslin. If the Grasslin is still connected , just set it to off, or unhook it and cover the pins with tape for the moment. If it has already been removed, then it sounds like you have some kind of loop in your wiring, whereby a timed event is throwing a relay in a valve which is going to the boiler but also back to the timed output, effectively holding the relay open. If your grasslin was operating in gravity mode, this should not create a loop. IF there are zone valves wired to fire the boiler in addition to the direct connection from the HW relay on the Nest, then a loop will occur. But then you don't need the gravity wiring mod on the Nest. I suggest you just remove the link between pins 3 and 4 on the Nest on my diagram, which will revert it to standard two zone timer, and turn the old stats up full. Try and discover if your zones are supplied by Zone valves which have their own relays to fire the boiler. Its even possible you have a zone valve for HW, as you have 2 heating zones. You do seem to have an odd setup, but it will need to be traced to understand the logic behind the wiring. Is it possible you also have a wiring box with relays inside? If your CH zones are pumped by individual pumps rather than the flow directed by Zone valves, it's possible, necessary even, that you have such a box, often know as a Lex box, to provide relay firing of the boiler for any wall stat or HW timed event. It's a pity you didn't mention the two wall stats back in October, this would have raised some alarms, as you have a compromise system with split from the single timer to two stat zones.
deezell wrote: » Tado is still limited to one wireless receiver, so to control the two CH zones, one would have to be wired back to the zone valve for it's floor. If the zone valves are somewhere downstairs, check and see how easy it would be to run a light twin wire mains cable from a living room or hallway wall to the valves. It might be easier from upstairs, from the landing wall, via the hot press across the attic and down. An alternative is to fit the entire upstairs with TRVs, locating the wired stat as a relay for the upstairs motorised valve next to the valve, and having as many zones as their are rads upstairs, say 6 leaving a bathroom or towel rail rad open. Downstairs would use the wireless stat and the extension kit (receiver) would control the downstairs CH and HW valves. All assuming your system is zoned with a 3 independent zone timer (make and model?). Your system is ideal for the guy installation of the Drayton Wiser Kit 3, 3 zone controller. 2 wireless stats and HW control to a single receiver which just drops in in place of your current timer.
deezell wrote: » Total Nerd stuff, excellent. We should have a rating for posters. I'd award that 3 Anoraks.
foxatron wrote: » Folks, I currently have a climote installed with 3 zones upstairs downstairs and hot water on gas boiler. I was looking to get a system where I could control individual rooms. Has anyone changed from a climote to a system like this. I saw tado wired stater sets on sale but not sure if they'd suit. Any advice appreciated.
baldshin wrote: » To be quite honest, I'm unsure if they're pumped or valved zones. Scheduled heating came on this morning, but didn't circulate the heat around the house, having left the old wired dials turned all the way down. So it seems they have overriding control over the nest. I'm assuming if they can be traced back to the boiler and removed, this may be a solution? Definitely something I'd need an electrician for, the wiring itself is like a nest!
deezell wrote: » I'm intrigued. The grasslin was just a single CH and HW controller? Yet you had two stats, so two zones. Are these pumped zones, or using zone valves? Perhaps the installer made other wiring changes, combined them into one. I'm surprised he even went ahead with a single zone replacement for what is obviously a single timer two CH zone installation, but with some odd wiring arrangements. If it works, then happy days, I'd no idea it was a two zone system, but it might explain some of the odd results.
raytaxi wrote: » I have 3 zone valves does that equal s-plan. Think i may have to go down sonoff for control as cylinder is fully insulated and just have pods for sensors. Think junction box is in garage and hot press upstairs and don't think i could get wire from one to other.
baldshin wrote: » 2 wall thermostats. Just turned both down and nest seems to function as expected. Will hold off on the celebrations and see if the heat randomly kicks in or stays on of its own accord!
raytaxi wrote: » Yeah its the only way I have is the ember stat at the moment, how would i go about mechanical stat to cylinder. Would i need to get a wire to drayton face plate ?
deezell wrote: » Have you wall thermostats in addition to the Grasslin? How many? Did the installer remove the Grasslin?. It was the timer unit, I'd assumed you had no wall stats. If you have more than one stat, it sounds like you have zoned heating, with Zone valves. If it works properly with these stats turned down, then there's some other source of switched power being sent to fire the boiler, just leave them down and see does the system work as it should.
raytaxi wrote: » Deezell looking a bit of advice have a 3 zone ember, thinking of swapping to the drayton kit two zone plus hot water. How will I control hot water as ember has a thermostat on tank and hits temp turns off. How would it work with drayton will it just keep heating or off at boiler limit.
legend99 wrote: » Given that I have/will have after next week, a TRV for each rad, does that mean something different in terms of set-up? In terms of the 'smartest' way to approach the smart set-up? Front room. It's a big room - probably well over 20 square meters. Does have open chimney and rad isn't huge alright. Just a single, not double, rad. Vent in window won't budge in terms of closing. But I always assume they had done something deliberately as there is a chimney and that is the only vent in the room so think the regs require a vent? All external walls have been pumped with beads - and the internal walls are already plasterboard with insulation on the back. I know this from trying to hang bloody curtain rails!
baldshin wrote: » .... Looks like the old analogue wall dials are still somewhat in control on occasion. When I turned them down, the heat went off. They had been left in situ turned right up, supposedly then the Nest would have full control. Is there an easy way to decommission these so that only the Nest has control of the boiler?
deezell wrote: » Install the ext kit next to the top floor valves, connect the HW valve and top floor CH valve, assign the ext kit to the top floor stat. You now will have seperate control on the app for HW, and you can relocate the top floor stat wirelessly to a room that actually has a radiator, one of the beds most likely. If your rooms are difficult to heat, such as the freezing lounge, which I presume is slower to heat than other rooms in that zone, then you could add additional insulation to this room, internal insulated wall boards if possible. Check for air leaks, excessive air through the vent, windows which dont seal, an open unused chimney. Maybe the internal walls are already plasterboard on studs and are open at the edge inside the external wall vent, very common, allowing the inside of the boards to cool rapidly. They may not be sealed at the top either, venting heat to the first floor joists space. You might need a bigger convection radiator in this room, to make sure it gets its share of the heat, but anything you can do to prevent heat loss, check this out First.
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://w6.vanillicon.com/v2/6b1975299c8e5d4897a60061c4f145b7.svg)
![Photo of [Deleted User]](https://w0.vanillicon.com/v2/0e54e8024b002427df3ce2953d22b721.svg)