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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

weeder

Well lately ive been talking repairs a lot and it seems to come up regularly enough, so why dont we dedicate a thread to it?

can be to ask questions, show repairs or just to give advice or whatever.

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o1s1n

L1m1tless

BrownFinger wrote: »

Ah now I was (and am) very grateful for that!
If you want to post me up the chassis and cap kit I'd gladly do it for you.
Consider it a trade for the SF?

I appreciate the offer but I'm not looking for anything in return.

Myself and Tony are 2 different people, it would be nice to post here without the attachment.

If you were genuine in helping me.out I would gladly pay for the time and expertise.

Thanks

BGOllie

that's the thing tough. There's a few of us who'd gladly do it for free but after that debacle attached to the cabs it's hard to consider doing someone we don't know a favour. There's more to fixing monitors than a simple re-cap and if we went down the road charging people for it, it would inevitably end up being a cluster of arguments and confusion.

If tony is close to you and has the experience he claims he has with arcade machines I would definitely contact him. I recall he said he knew how to fix crts.

But ultimately, my advice is to pick up a soldering iron and get at it yourself. It's part of the fun of maintaining these machines and a lot more rewarding and cost effective way of getting it working. You'll learn a ton of stuff in the process, which is super important if you want to keep your 3 machines working. A recap is one of the most simple process in PCB maintenance, it takes time and it can look overwhelming but it's an easy job really.

L1m1tless

Thanks I appreciate the advice.

I do own a soldering iron and there is lots I can do myself but when it comes to monitors I'd be nervous of shocking myself.

Tony is my first call when I need help but he's been very busy lately. He is however going to do it for me this week so happy to be getting it sorted.

Has already been diagnosed as needing a cap kit so I'm looking forward to getting it fixed and playing some games over Christmas.

It's my Irish made red machine, i have all the bodywork restored so just the monitor now and it's back to its former glory.

Doge

Does anyone have recommendations on which Microswitches to buy from Arcade World UK for concave happ style buttons?
And does anyone know the difference between the standard happ buttons and ultimate ones?

Looking for something clicky with short travel.

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/Microswitches/

BGOllie

Doge wrote: »

Does anyone have recommendations on which Microswitches to buy from Arcade World UK for concave happ style buttons?
And does anyone know the difference between the standard happ buttons and ultimate ones?

Looking for something clicky with short travel.

https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/Microswitches/

how many do you need ? I've a good few with buttons I'm unlikely to use you're welcome to them

Doge

BGOllie wrote: »

how many do you need ? I've a good few with buttons I'm unlikely to use you're welcome to them

16 buttons I think for the 2 player SF2 Arcade1UP cab, which would include the extra button per player for MAME.

Thats very kind of you Ollie, are they decent ones by any chance?

I wouldn't mind contributing some cash towards it

BGOllie

no worries. I'll take a photo tomorrow and pm ya then. You can choose if you want them or not then.

Doge

BGOllie wrote: »

no worries. I'll take a photo tomorrow and pm ya then. You can choose if you want them or not then.

Thanks dude!

80s Synth Pop

Thank you to the person that advised me to get a minipac as an alternative to the out of stock jvspac / jvstrike for the Naomi. It worked perfect.

I bought a couple of connector blocks and pins from radionics and now everything is a plug and play swap between the original hardware and the PC.

eddhorse

nice work, any link to the radionics connector blocks, i find that website a maze.

The Last Bandit

Another monitor saved, just need a new LOPT and a bunch of capacitors

80s Synth Pop

eddhorse wrote: »

nice work, any link to the radionics connector blocks, i find that website a maze.

Here is a copy/paste from the invoice for the parts:

TE Connectivity AMP Universal Power Crimp Terminal Contact, Male, 0.1mm² to 0.35mm², 26AWG to 22AWG, Tin Plating
Stock no.:712-1993
Qty:50

TE Connectivity AMP Universal Power Crimp Terminal Contact, Female, 0.1mm² to 0.35mm², 26AWG to 22AWG, Tin Plating
Stock no.:712-1980
Qty:100

TE Connectivity AMP Universal Power, 3.96mm Pitch, 12 Way, 3 Row Female Connector Housing
Stock no.:719-4379
Qty:2

80s Synth Pop

L1m1tless wrote: »

Any recommendations on getting my arcade monitor repaired. I reckon it just needs a cap kit. Which I have bought but don't think I'd manage it myself.

Send it to Grant in UK. If it's a sanwa chassis it's usually just cold solder joints as it has lead free solder. You could try reflow everything but if you don't have time Grant will fix it for you in no time.

Or you can get a rodatron chassis and run your screen as a tri sync.

Personally I would stick to the sanwa chassis since the repair will be cheaper than purchasing a new chassis.

Plus, the 31Khz sanwa with software scanlines looks indistinguishable to a 15Khz chassis. Final Fight in groovymame on sanwa with software scanlines in 31Khz is 2560x448 super resolution and the picture looks identical to the rodotron in 15Khz in 2560x224 resolution. Then you can run Demul in native 640x480.

The Last Bandit

I think Grant has posted a few times that he doesn't like taking on chassis's that have had repair attempts on them. Just pack it up and sent it off for repair or exchange.

L1m1tless

80s Synth Pop wrote: »

Send it to Grant in UK. If it's a sanwa chassis it's usually just cold solder joints as it has lead free solder. You could try reflow everything but if you don't have time Grant will fix it for you in no time.

Or you can get a rodatron chassis and run your screen as a tri sync.

Personally I would stick to the sanwa chassis since the repair will be cheaper than purchasing a new chassis.

Plus, the 31Khz sanwa with software scanlines looks indistinguishable to a 15Khz chassis. Final Fight in groovymame on sanwa with software scanlines in 31Khz is 2560x448 super resolution and the picture looks identical to the rodotron in 15Khz in 2560x224 resolution. Then you can run Demul in native 640x480.

Thanks for the reply but I have someone local fixing it for me now. Funny you should mention final fight as I've an original final fight board that might be going in after its sorted. 😁

safetyboy

I have an RGB modded PC engine from japan but when I put the scart in to my tv I only get sound no picture, its an old Akai 14" pal CRT. It worked fine on my old LCD. is there a different wiring in the scart lead?

Inviere

safetyboy wrote: »

I have an RGB modded PC engine from japan but when I put the scart in to my tv I only get sound no picture, its an old Akai 14" pal CRT. It worked fine on my old LCD. is there a different wiring in the scart lead?

Sounds like the tv isn't NTSC-compatible

safetyboy

Inviere wrote: »

Sounds like the tv isn't NTSC-compatible

I'm sure I had my Sega genesis working on it before, I will dig it out later and try.

o1s1n

Inviere wrote: »

Sounds like the tv isn't NTSC-compatible

If it's RGB the it should work as NTSC/PAL signals are for composite and RF only.

At worst there should at least black and white picture.

My PCE does some weird stuff when the video isn't grounded properly (including no picture) I wonder is it maybe something similar?

o1s1n

sugarman wrote: »

Does the TV definitely have an RGB scart input? Cheaper brands / Smaller CRTs sometimes only have AV inputs.

The thing is, if it was composite only over a scart socket, he's still be getting a composite signal as scart carries composite too. (So if it was an NTSC/PAL TV composite issue he should be seeing a black and white composite picture at least)

The Last Bandit

sugarman wrote: »

I was just thinking along the lines of it not having a composite output at all since the din connecter has to be changed for the RGB mod. Whoever done it might not have bothered to reconnect it as it wasn't needed anymore or depending on the connector used, awkward and not worth the hassle.

The composite carries the Sync signal, so has to be connected. Can you open the console and check how the mod is wired ?

There are some total sh1te modders out there unfortunately

safetyboy

I'll power it up tonight and take some pics. Is there a way to wire the Scart so that it jumps to AV straight away as I cant find the remote

The Last Bandit

safetyboy wrote: »

I'll power it up tonight and take some pics. Is there a way to wire the Scart so that it jumps to AV straight away as I cant find the remote

9v-12v on SCART pin 8 will switch the TV to AV (4:3) mode.

But you'll get away with 5v as this should switch to AV (16:9) but fall back to 4:3 if widescreen not available.

BGOllie

repaired this tetris bootleg board. I was booting randomly due to both detached caps and blown ones. When it booted the sound was missing.
It seems on these board the electrolytic caps also play a role the Ic voltage regulation (it's usually audio and voltage stabilisation ) .
Replaced all caps and the board booted fine & audio was back but some controls were missing. the pokey chips handle the i/o stuff so I swapped them around just to see what the effect could be. same result.
After some poking around I guessed that the socket for one of the pokey chips must be making partial contact. I replaced the (old single swipe) socket with a new one and all's back working

48390341_10156928526628276_5397198243664756736_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=e39be5e185c5d5bdb39dc97cba99ae38&oe=5CD81668

CiDeRmAn

My Veccy is alive again, seems all it needed was a fuse in the plug!
Still have the issue of text rendered upside down.
I have to take the back off the machine and do some pot adjustment.
Wish me luck!

The Last Bandit

Got the Naomi cab working again

Done the caps on the chassis, well as many as were included in the kit, geometry is much improved so just need to tweak the colour balance again and might change the remote board pots. But happy with the results so far..

BGOllie

nice one.
Are you changing the flyback as well ? I keep hearing it's better to change it after a cap kit as the new caps can put a strain on it (although I yet have to discover why and how this can happen )

I just put together a video of that Bom Jack pcb repair I did a while back

The Last Bandit

No, just changed the caps.

The flyback and power transistors were all changed before judging by the burnt flux on the pcb

Doge

BGOllie wrote: »

the pokey chips handle the i/o stuff so I swapped them around just to see what the effect could be. same result.
After some poking around I guessed that the socket for one of the pokey chips must be making partial contact.

heh