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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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Mickiemcfist

CramCycle wrote: »

Ask Google and Sheldon will answer:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html

Hmm...must start trying that out - makes sense when you see it in black & white.

seamus

I tend to only use the back brakes if I mess up a corner or if I don't like the road surface tbh.

I was kind of conditioned to it after riding a motorbike for a couple of years; when both brakes are on the same side, you learn to discern between them almost unconsciously, and you also learn very quickly which brake will slow you down from 80km/h the fastest!

On a bicycle, it can become a bad habit to just pull both brakes without thinking about which is which.

Type 17

I have always used both brakes together, and have conditioned myself to ease off on either brake if I can sense that wheel beginning to lock up.

If I'm descending in damp/wet conditions, I favour the rear brake a bit more when controlling my speed, but otherwise try to keep things even.

Also, for emergency stops (with both brakes), try to train yourself to straighten your arms and slide back on the saddle - you'll be shifting your weight back (helping prevent a rear-wheel skid) - and lean the bike to one side - if the rear wheel does lock up, you'll be able to perform a "speedway skid".

Ray Bloody Purchase

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

If you're near D8 I have the tool needed, will take 2 seconds

Got that sorted yesterday evening. Thanks again for the offer.

They didn't charge, the bike was still under warranty, twas only a two minute job at the same time. I got it last January and brought it in a few weeks later for the tune up, or whatever it is that they recommend.

The lad looking at it asked if i had brought it in for the tune up, he was figuring by the shape it was in that i hadn't.

c.p.w.g.w

Quick one regards bolts and torque.

New bike arrived today, so set it up. Just attaching the handlebars and it states 5nm, but my torque wrench goes up by 2(2,4,6,8 etc).

Is it ok to tighten to 4nm instead of the 5nm

TychoCaine

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Quick one regards bolts and torque.

New bike arrived today, so set it up. Just attaching the handlebars and it states 5nm, but my torque wrench goes up by 2(2,4,6,8 etc).

Is it ok to tighten to 4nm instead of the 5nm

Yup. 5nm is the *maximum* torque. It's usual to tighten to 80% of max torque, which just happens to be 4nm! Use some fibre grip rather than over-tightening to stop it slipping.

c.p.w.g.w

TychoCaine wrote: »

Yup. 5nm is the *maximum* torque. It's usual to tighten to 80% of max torque, which just happens to be 4nm! Use some fibre grip rather than over-tightening to stop it slipping.

Cheers, got some assembly gel for the handlebars, seat post and pedals

dahat

How does one know when a saddle is past its best use?

I've a second hand Fizik Antares on the winter bike and when you press it in the middle it dips.

Normal or fooked?

Type 17

Once you confirm that the body and rails haven’t cracked/become disconnected etc, and that it’s still comfortable for you(r butt), then it’s still ok.
There aren’t any more specific rules for replacement, other than don’t ignore discomfort.

CramCycle

dahat wrote: »

How does one know when a saddle is past its best use?

I've a second hand Fizik Antares on the winter bike and when you press it in the middle it dips.

Normal or fooked?

My one cracked in the middle, going round a bend I heard it pop. Fizik replaced it, no questions asked so I presume it's an accepted issue. It was bending a bit before it went. Not dangerous, just felt like the seat post dropped by a cm or two.

dahat

CramCycle wrote: »

My one cracked in the middle, going round a bend I heard it pop. Fizik replaced it, no questions asked so I presume it's an accepted issue. It was bending a bit before it went. Not dangerous, just felt like the seat post dropped by a cm or two.

I may pop them an email to enquire about the status of it bending in the middle.

You are lucky it didnt break in two under you!

Ray Bloody Purchase

I was sticking on a pannier rack on the bike yesterday and stripped one of the screws on it. No budging it now.

Looking online and it's saying that using a vice grip or stick a rubber band into it and go again. I don't have a vice grip in Dublin.

I might get cheap hack saw and use a flat head screw driver to get it off?

Any other options for this type of screw?

I was only putting it on to see if it fits. I don't even have a pannier bag to put on it yet. :mad::mad:

07Lapierre

Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »

I was sticking on a pannier rack on the bike yesterday and stripped one of the screws on it. No budging it now.

Looking online and it's saying that using a vice grip or stick a rubber band into it and go again. I don't have a vice grip in Dublin.

I might get cheap hack saw and use a flat head screw driver to get it off?

Any other options for this type of screw?

I was only putting it on to see if it fits. I don't even have a pannier bag to put on it yet. :mad::mad:

Do you have a pliars? that would also do the job.

Ray Bloody Purchase

07Lapierre wrote: »

Do you have a pliars? that would also do the job.

Yeah, i was at it with a pliers. Didn't get much traction with it.

cletus

Looks like a hex head. You should be able to get it to turn with a vise grips. It might help to file a pair of flats into it, but tbh, if you get a good bite, you should be ok

Ray Bloody Purchase

cletus wrote: »

Looks like a hex head. You should be able to get it to turn with a vise grips. It might help to file a pair of flats into it, but tbh, if you get a good bite, you should be ok

I'll get a vice grip from somewhere. Bloody pain in the tits.

Cheers.

cletus

Buy one. I have built up a substantial tool collection over the years by buying a tool when i need to do a job. Then you have it for the next time.

CramCycle

If your in South Dublin, i have one or two you could borrow but they are not too pricy, I think they maybe in Aldi at the minute as well.

Ray Bloody Purchase

cletus wrote: »

Buy one. I have built up a substantial tool collection over the years by buying a tool when i need to do a job. Then you have it for the next time.

CramCycle wrote: »

If your in South Dublin, i have one or two you could borrow but they are not too pricy, I think they maybe in Aldi at the minute as well.

Cheers lads. I'll be able to get one off the father in law. :mad::mad:

cdaly_

If it's a hex head, try hammering a suitably sized torx bit into the head. You'll likely get a turn on that.

It's usually the case that torx will work with a worn hex head and sometimes the other way will work if you're stuck.

Ray Bloody Purchase

cdaly_ wrote: »

If it's a hex head, try hammering a suitably sized torx bit into the head. You'll likely get a turn on that.

It's usually the case that torx will work with a worn hex head and sometimes the other way will work if you're stuck.

Thanks, i'll give that a go with the drill after i hammer it in.

cdaly_

I'd avoid the drill. Too much torque suddenly applied. Much better to use a bit holder on a ratchet and turn slowly by hand.

cletus

Lads, yis are offering solutions to the man to avoid buying tools, when he has a legitimate reason to tell the wife he has to buy a new tool. In fact, if he was any good, he could string it out into needing a vise grips, a set of pliers, a set of Allen keys and torx keys, and maybe even one of those little impact screwdriver sets I keep meaning to pick up...

Eamonnator

cletus wrote: »

Lads, yis are offering solutions to the man to avoid buying tools, when he has a legitimate reason to tell the wife he has to buy a new tool. In fact, if he was any good, he could string it out into needing a vise grips, a set of pliers, a set of Allen keys and torx keys, and maybe even one of those little impact screwdriver sets I keep meaning to pick up...

or a new bike

triggermortis

If that's a metric size hex bolt, you could try forcing the next size up into the head, or an imperial size that will be slightly bigger.
If you don't have those, try a rubber band over the end of the correct size allen key, or steel wool.
If you're in NCD I have vise grips, screw extractors and screw grab that will remove that - you'd be welcome to borrow or I could do it for you

tnegun

Back wheel was all over the place on the way home and upon inspection found a crack. Its a hybrid I use for commuting 22k each way so don't fancy chancing it again. Wheel is a 622-16 what do I look for when replacing it? Just that?

tnegun

So I'm finding out there's a lot to looking for a new rim! Bike has a 10 speed freehub and disc brakes so options are limited or am I looking for the wrong stuff?

Ray Bloody Purchase

triggermortis wrote: »

If that's a metric size hex bolt, you could try forcing the next size up into the head, or an imperial size that will be slightly bigger.
If you don't have those, try a rubber band over the end of the correct size allen key, or steel wool.
If you're in NCD I have vise grips, screw extractors and screw grab that will remove that - you'd be welcome to borrow or I could do it for you

Ah cheers mate, I'm in the salubrious south Dublin 'burbs of Tallaght though.

I'm going to hit the shed hard tonight and try out the various suggestions.

Edit: And i have a bloody vice grip. Down in Galway!

cdaly_

tnegun wrote: »

So I'm finding out there's a lot to looking for a new rim! Bike has a 10 speed freehub and disc brakes so options are limited or am I looking for the wrong stuff?

10-speed hub with disc shouldn't be too hard to find if you're replacing the wheel.

If you want to replace just the rim and can identify the existing rim and it's a 32/36 hole, you might find a direct replacement. Otherwise, you have to work out the effective rim diameter (ERD) which defines how long your spokes need to be and then find a hub with the same ERD.

If you're replacing the wheel, consider a dynamo wheelset for €140 delivered. Spend another €60 on lights and you've got a serious upgrade to your commuter...

magicbastarder

tnegun wrote: »

Back wheel was all over the place on the way home and upon inspection found a crack. Its a hybrid I use for commuting 22k each way so don't fancy chancing it again. Wheel is a 622-16 what do I look for when replacing it? Just that?

622 is a standard size wheel; IIRC 22 is the inner width of the rim. fairly standard.
should be relatively easy to get a wheel, i guess - may be an order in your LBS as you've the combination of whether the disc is 6 or 7 bolt, or centrelock, plus the 10 speed freehub, etc., making finding a specific match online just that little fiddlier?

i assume the bike is not under warranty?