Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Sealing where a velux meets the plasterboard to stop draughts?

Options
  • 04-04-2011 11:07pm
    #1
    thekooman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭


    hi all,
    Have noticed the last while that there is a draught coming in around the velux windows in the house where the plasterboard meets the velux.
    what would be the best to maybe running around the edges to stop this from happening? would it be white silicon or maybe painters chalk?

    anyone ideas or experiences of this would be great.
    have attached images to show.


«13

Comments

  • Options
    #2
    antiskeptic
    Registered Users Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    thekooman wrote: »
    hi all,
    Have noticed the last while that there is a draught coming in around the velux windows in the house where the plasterboard meets the velux.
    what would be the best to maybe running around the edges to stop this from happening? would it be white silicon or maybe painters chalk?

    anyone ideas or experiences of this would be great.
    have attached images to show.

    tec7 is the way to go. It sticks like nothing else and stay stuck (I'd put a generous bead on and smooth with a finger). Expensive at about 13 euro a cartridge but has the advantage of a screw-on-cap and good storage life when part used - you'll end up using it for all sorts once you get hooked to it's versatility.

    There are cheaper copies around - I see evostick doing something similar of late.

    Be careful to by tec7 itself and not one of the myriad of other products made by the same company and packaged almost identically.


  • Options
    #3
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    Iy should be illegal for these people to call themselves plasterers


  • Options
    #4
    AckwelFoley
    Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    brendankelly wrote: »
    Iy should be illegal for these people to call themselves plasterers

    I wouldnt blame the plasterers at all.

    The cracking is from expansion in the timber structure.

    From what i see, it looks like the slab isnt covering over the frame of the window enough

    Tec 7 is a flex sealant and adh, applied correctly it should slove the problem


  • Options
    #5
    thekooman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    cheers folks for the advice. just seen an ad on the telly there for TEC7... looks very "JML"! ill give it a go and will let you know how it looks.


  • Options
    #6
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    thekooman wrote: »
    cheers folks for the advice. just seen an ad on the telly there for TEC7... looks very "JML"! ill give it a go and will let you know how it looks.


    Its nothing like that JML SHYTE.:rolleyes:

    Tech 7 works,thats the difference.:)

    Ive used it on my 500 litre aquariam for fixing dead wood and bog oak to slate rock,to keep them sunk and on the bottom of the tank.

    It works underwater 100% and does the job perfectly.:D


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    The plastering is like as if it was done with a yard brush.

    You are correct . The plaster board is not fitted properly into the grove on the Velux. Other than that it is the plaster work that is at fault. There is a hole that flies or even a small mouse can get in and out. It is a cheap one coat plastering job and the person that did it should fix it and the architect that signed off on it should pay for the annoyance caused to the home owner.


  • Options
    #8
    scwazrh
    Registered Users Posts: 2,609 ✭✭✭scwazrh


    brendankelly wrote: »
    The plaster board is not fitted properly into the grove on the Velux. Other than that it is the plaster work that is at fault. There is a hole that flies or even a small mouse can get in and out. It is a cheap one coat plastering job and the person that did it should fix it and the architect that signed off on it should pay for the annoyance caused to the home owner.

    You are dead right!There is grooves in all velux window frames that the plasterboard must slide into.Normally you need to shave the back of the slab to get it to fit.


    For the OP,scrape back along the edges that hit the velux with a Stanley knife and then fill with flexible caulk .Tec 7 is great but is very expensive.Keep in mind though that you will need to reseal it every few years..


  • Options
    #9
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    The groves in the velux are not ment to make the system draft free. . Its simply to locate the plaster board neatly.

    It is also hardly a plasterers fault that the plaster breaks down and cracks in a new build.

    I cant believe experienced people would make crazy comments like it should be illegal . :rolleyes:


    Simply reseal when redecorating to cure the problem. No need for the drama.

    Im not sure tec 7 would be ideal as it may not take paint so well. A tube of chalk seems like a better choice to me. Ask a painter for advise on the exact stuff for such an application



    There are airtight ways to fit a velux but they are few and far between TBH. mosy are installed by roofers , and finished below by tackers and plasterers . Unless they are told to make it airtight. they wont . It costs alot more to do so.


  • Options
    #10
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    The groves in the velux are not ment to make the system draft free. . Its simply to locate the plaster board neatly.

    It is also hardly a plasterers fault that the plaster breaks down and cracks in a new build.

    I cant believe experienced people would make crazy comments like it should be illegal . :rolleyes: (end Quote)


    The plaster work in those pictures is an absolute disgrace and the person responsible should not be allowed call himself a plasterer.

    The faults in the picts are the plasterers fault. All cracks and faults excepts structural cracks and faults are the responsibility and fault of the plasterer and I can see no structural faults or cracks in these pictures.

    Whose fault do you think it is when plaster breaks down of cracks in any building????


  • Options
    #11
    AckwelFoley
    Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    brendankelly wrote: »
    gsxr1 wrote: »
    The groves in the velux are not ment to make the system draft free. . Its simply to locate the plaster board neatly.

    It is also hardly a plasterers fault that the plaster breaks down and cracks in a new build.

    I cant believe experienced people would make crazy comments like it should be illegal . :rolleyes: (end Quote)


    The plaster work in those pictures is an absolute disgrace and the person responsible should not be allowed call himself a plasterer.

    The faults in the picts are the plasterers fault. All cracks and faults excepts structural cracks and faults are the responsibility and fault of the plasterer and I can see no structural faults or cracks in these pictures.

    Whose fault do you think it is when plaster breaks down of cracks in any building????

    The marks in the plaster mentioned earlier are brush strokes from paint, not srom troweling or lack of.

    Cracks do appear, sometimes structural, othertimes from slabs that are poorly fitted, actually i can give a dozen exmples of how cracks can appear without it being the plasterers fault,

    In this instancem you cant actually use scrim tape , you can only use that in corners or on the joint of 2 boards, not where it meets a window.

    The little hole you see at the bottom of the window in the corner, you cant skim into that, im sure you could push some skim in and brush it in , but i promise you when it sries and with integral structural movment, it will pop out


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    For clarity.

    You look as if you are quoting me in that last post. Which is not the case.


  • Options
    #13
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    Brush strokes??/ If they are, they are yard brush strokes.

    There are only 2 types of cracks. Structural cracks that my first year apprentice would identify and cracks that are due to stupidity, stupidity, ignorance, more stupidity and 8 different combinations of stupidity and ignorance.

    Real plasterers have (although they will never admit to having one) a special tool to plaster into corners and small areas. It is known by trades men as a small tool.

    Why could you not use scrim here??. Was it because your price was so low that you could not afford it??.


  • Options
    #14
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    again with the drama. :)

    Just caulk it.

    fixed.


  • Options
    #15
    mfceiling
    Registered Users Posts: 12,775 ✭✭✭✭mfceiling


    Exactly as above....caulk it.

    Snyper is right........they are brush marks from the painter (how the hell would a plasterers trowel leave a mark like that??)

    Also brendan........i see you talk about one cheap coat of plaster.
    Gypsum skim is a one coat finish that is applied, then trowelled, then trowelled again, then allowed to "go off" then wet with a brush and then trowelled to finish.
    Is a 2 coat some other kind of plaster? - i've worked with plasterers in here and in england and i've never seen gypsum plaster put on top of a coat of plaster...just curious as i remember you saying it before.


  • Options
    #16
    saltandpepper10
    Closed Accounts Posts: 194 ✭✭saltandpepper10


    mfceiling wrote: »
    Exactly as above....caulk it.

    Snyper is right........they are brush marks from the painter (how the hell would a plasterers trowel leave a mark like that??)

    Also brendan........i see you talk about one cheap coat of plaster.
    Gypsum skim is a one coat finish that is applied, then trowelled, then trowelled again, then allowed to "go off" then wet with a brush and then trowelled to finish.
    Is a 2 coat some other kind of plaster? - i've worked with plasterers in here and in england and i've never seen gypsum plaster put on top of a coat of plaster...just curious as i remember you saying it before.
    skimming in ireland is always a two coat process,and i am a carpenter would have thought everyone on the buildings would have known this watch more closely people.also its good practise to put the taper edge into velux grove if you can,those pictures are an unaceptable finish imo


  • Options
    #17
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    Very interesting comments from people that are supposed to be giving others good advice. Your comments are an indication of the work manship you will tolerate. I was a plastering foreman some years back and if someone left work like that he would be shown the gate. I will let some real painter respond to your other point.

    Also mf ..... I have heard of cowboys that are trying to get away with cheap one coat plastering jobs but none ever tried that with me because I would spot a cowboy before he would even reached the gate. I am curious about the people that you worked with and for some reason an old proverb is in my mind. It goes something like ""show me your company and I will tell you what you are"".


  • Options
    #18
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    brendankelly wrote: »
    Very interesting comments from people that are supposed to be giving others good advice. Your comments are an indication of the work manship you will tolerate. I was a plastering foreman some years back and if someone left work like that he would be shown the gate. I will let some real painter respond to your other point.

    Also mf ..... I have heard of cowboys that are trying to get away with cheap one coat plastering jobs but none ever tried that with me because I would spot a cowboy before he would even reached the gate. I am curious about the people that you worked with and for some reason an old proverb is in my mind. It goes something like ""show me your company and I will tell you what you are"".

    And your advise to fix the problem is

    Drumroll......... Arrest the plaster as you made it illegal.


    Your comments are not advise . They are simply a stab at the plasterer who did the job. Not to mention your stab at everyone else!


    The OP simply wanted advise on stopping the draft????

    Shooting the builder is not really an option.


  • Options
    #19
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    The OP has gotten advice that I did not disagree with and my advice is to make the person responsible fix his mess and to others reading this to be more cautious before they make their final payment.
    I pay a lot of money for my insurance and my liabilities is 3 million if one of my men gets killed or injured and a massive 13 million if I am sued for bad workmanship. There was never a claim against my insurance so I suspect there were claims against other contractors to have the premiums so high. The person that did this job was not a plasterer, he was a cowboy that is costing me money on my insurance premiums.

    My question to you gsxr1 . Would the workmanship in those pictures be acceptable to you?????/


  • Options
    #20
    mfceiling
    Registered Users Posts: 12,775 ✭✭✭✭mfceiling


    brendankelly wrote: »
    Very interesting comments from people that are supposed to be giving others good advice. Your comments are an indication of the work manship you will tolerate. I was a plastering foreman some years back and if someone left work like that he would be shown the gate. I will let some real painter respond to your other point.

    Also mf ..... I have heard of cowboys that are trying to get away with cheap one coat plastering jobs but none ever tried that with me because I would spot a cowboy before he would even reached the gate. I am curious about the people that you worked with and for some reason an old proverb is in my mind. It goes something like ""show me your company and I will tell you what you are"".


    Self employed the last 5 years but i have never seen skim put on in "2" coats.
    One of the companies i was a foreman for have just won the Quality Gold Award for the "Best Dry lining Commercial Contract over £1m" at the FPDC awards in London....and although a lot of their work is taping and jointing they have about 15-20 skimmers on the cards and again i never saw 2 coats of skim being applied.
    Does the skim go on then after it has been trowelled and made reasonably dry then another wet coat of skim go on?
    I am genuinely curious as it seems every plasterer from donegal to cork only uses one coat!!
    My own experience is metal framed suspended ceilings and metal stud partitions, bulkheads etc...used to having skimmers work after me...no complaints so far!!


  • Options
    #21
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    mfceiling wrote: »
    Self employed the last 5 years but i have never seen skim put on in "2" coats.
    One of the companies i was a foreman for have just won the Quality Gold Award for the "Best Dry lining Commercial Contract over £1m" at the FPDC awards in London....and although a lot of their work is taping and jointing they have about 15-20 skimmers on the cards and again i never saw 2 coats of skim being applied.
    Does the skim go on then after it has been trowelled and made reasonably dry then another wet coat of skim go on?
    I am genuinely curious as it seems every plasterer from donegal to cork only uses one coat!!
    My own experience is metal framed suspended ceilings and metal stud partitions, bulkheads etc...used to having skimmers work after me...no complaints so far!!

    Correction, Every cowboy only uses one coat. Every Plasterer uses 2 coats.

    The reason is that gypsum plaster replaced lime plaster which was breathable and gypsum is not naturally breathable and if not done properly you could have problems with mould etc after time. The reason for 2 coats is that you apply one coat and when it is about to go off you apply the second coat. As the first coat is drying the drying out process makes the second coat porous and more breathable and the trowel can give a smooth finish without glazing the plaster. If the plaster is glazed you will have problems.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #22
    AckwelFoley
    Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    The second coat is called "filling in the fat"

    Old school plasterers used a wooden trowel, akin to the pvc float -

    I dont, i use the pvc float, i to be honest havent seen alot of plasterers use the pvc float for the second application, but i do as i find its better (for me) at evening out the skim.

    Brendan, i still believe from what i can see that they are brush strokes - i dont see how a trowel can make brush like marks.

    As for the scrim - why would i not use scrim, its cheap -but where or moreover how do you apply scrim tape to a window?


  • Options
    #23
    thekooman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    many thanks for all the comments folks.
    the marks on the plaster are brush marks from the paint.
    the cracks between the velux and plasterboard i would put down to general movement between timber and plaster... the plasterer actually was very good. how you finish between the velux and plasterboard i don't know.

    I tried the tec7 last week and it looks good. I might try the painters caulk later... got a tube for filling between skirting board and wall anyways.
    I've used masking tape to keep the tec7/caulk off the timber of the velux.


  • Options
    #24
    AckwelFoley
    Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    thekooman wrote: »
    many thanks for all the comments folks.
    the marks on the plaster are brush marks from the paint..

    Thought so.

    ;)


  • Options
    #25
    thekooman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    snyper wrote: »
    Thought so.

    ;)
    meself and the wife thought we were the best painters in the world...
    :rolleyes:


  • Options
    #26
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    thekooman wrote: »
    many thanks for all the comments folks.
    the marks on the plaster are brush marks from the paint.
    the cracks between the velux and plasterboard i would put down to general movement between timber and plaster... the plasterer actually was very good. how you finish between the velux and plasterboard i don't know.

    I tried the tec7 last week and it looks good. I might try the painters caulk later... got a tube for filling between skirting board and wall anyways.
    I've used masking tape to keep the tec7/caulk off the timber of the velux.
    You might have problems now with the tec 7. I pretty sure it wont take paint.

    And it is very hard to remove .


  • Options
    #27
    AckwelFoley
    Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    You might have problems now with the tec 7. I pretty sure it wont take paint.

    And it is very hard to remove .

    http://www.contec7.co.uk/tec7-uses.htm

    You can paint over it apparently


  • Options
    #28
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    saltandpepper10 wrote: »
    skimming in ireland is always a two coat process,and i am a carpenter would have thought everyone on the buildings would have known this watch more closely people.also its good practise to put the taper edge into velux grove if you can,those pictures are an unaceptable finish imo

    Of course it is a 2 coat process. Only cowboys try to get away with one coat.


  • Options
    #29
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    mfceiling wrote: »
    Self employed the last 5 years but i have never seen skim put on in "2" coats.
    One of the companies i was a foreman for have just won the Quality Gold Award for the "Best Dry lining Commercial Contract over £1m" at the FPDC awards in London....and although a lot of their work is taping and jointing they have about 15-20 skimmers on the cards and again i never saw 2 coats of skim being applied.
    Does the skim go on then after it has been trowelled and made reasonably dry then another wet coat of skim go on?
    I am genuinely curious as it seems every plasterer from donegal to cork only uses one coat!!
    My own experience is metal framed suspended ceilings and metal stud partitions, bulkheads etc...used to having skimmers work after me...no complaints so far!!

    I find it very disturbing that someone could get the job of foreman that did not know that plaster should be put on in 2 coats. And even more disturbing that there are so many cowboys doing sub standard work and getting away with it.


  • Options
    #30
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    FFS lads,take it somewhere else.

    The op asked how to seal the gap around a Velux and keep draughts out,not about how to plaster a wall or ceiling or how many coats of plaster should be done when plastering.

    Give it a rest now.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #31
    brendankelly
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 318 ✭✭brendankelly


    thekooman wrote: »
    many thanks for all the comments folks.
    the marks on the plaster are brush marks from the paint.
    the cracks between the velux and plasterboard i would put down to general movement between timber and plaster... the plasterer actually was very good. how you finish between the velux and plasterboard i don't know.

    I tried the tec7 last week and it looks good. I might try the painters caulk later... got a tube for filling between skirting board and wall anyways.
    I've used masking tape to keep the tec7/caulk off the timber of the velux.


    With respect, I would not rate the plasterwork as good. There should be no movement between the plasterboard and the velux and if there is your velux is not fitted properly. If there was movement the plasterer would have spotted it and either fixed it or brought it to your attention.

    There is a grove in velux where the plaster board fits in to and as someone else stated it is designed for the tapered edge but an off cut can be filed down to fit also. There should be no space between the plasterboard and the velux.


Advertisement