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Care sheets--Post any animal related care sheets here..

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  • 25-03-2003 4:50pm
    #1
    Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,581 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Ok heres a care sheet for my two tarantulas.If any one else wants to make a care sheet Ill sticky it here.
    Richie.




    Tarantula Keeping.

    Ok so you want to own a Tarantula!!!!!
    Well here is some vital information that you should know BEFORE you buy your first one.


    TYPES OF TARANTULAS
    Tarantulas are categorised into 3 distinct types, Opportunistic burrowers, obligate burrowers and arboreal. And these are then sub-categorised into new world (Americas) and Old world (Africa/Asia). So you can have a New World burrower and an Old world Arboreal etc. This account of Tarantula keeping concentrates on new world species, as the Old World species are extremely aggressive and in my opinion should not be kept as pets or even at that as a look but dont touch pet.

    Opportunistic burrowers: These are Tarantulas that will use a hide of some sort in which they spend most of their time rather than dig their own burrow. These are probably the easiest to keep for a beginner as they don’t really have any special housing requirements-An upturned plant pot makes an ideal home for them. Members of this species include Mexican red knee (Brachypelma Smithi) and Goliath Bird eater (Theraposa Blondi—which is NOT recommended for beginners.

    Obligate burrowers: These Tarantulas need to build their own retreat, preferably by digging a burrow. Because of this be prepared to never see your Tarantula for months on end. Some of them dig burrows with intricate networks of tunnels. Species include the stunning looking Cobalt blue (Halpopelma Minax---Very aggressive).

    Arboreal: These are Tarantulas, which live “off the ground” which can mean on trees, plants, and even peoples dwellings. They have even been known to live in the eaves of houses. Some of them will never touch the ground throughout their lives. These are also fairly easy to keep as they build very strong tube-shaped webs to live in, the only problem being that you have to have a cage, which opens from the side/top as they always build at the tops of their cage. Species include Pink toes (Avicularia Avicularia—extremely docile) and the venomous Poecilotheria species, which are from India and have been known to kill healthy adults**Edit**I cant find one single case of a death from a bite from one of these species so Im editing this.

    Housing: Any container, which is escape proof and can be ventilated, is suitable for a Tarantula. The general rule is that the container should be twice the leg span long and one and a half the leg span high in the case of ground dwellers and no height limit for Arboreal. The reason for this is because some enthusiasts believe that the tarantula would not find its food in a container that is too large for it.

    Personally I put my first Tarantula in an old aquarium 12Lx9Wx8H on the day I got it. It has grown to almost 6-inch leg span now from the 2 inch that it was. It never had problems finding its food. My arboreal is the same-I put it into a purpose built container 24Hx12Lx12W and it has no problems finding its food.

    In the wild a tarantula can roam for miles every day so again in my opinion this cage restriction seems to be a myth.
    The cage also needs a bedding which will retain moisture as most Tarantulas need a relative humidity of greater than 50% and some of the rainforest species need anything up to 95%.

    This poses its own problems as in this type of environment, moulds and mites flourish which can kill a tarantula. Then there are some which need high humidity and high ventilation which is definitely a challenge as the rule is more ventilation = less humidity.

    The ideal bedding Ive found is vermiculite which is an expanded volcanic soil. It retains moisture well and discourages mould growth. And since you only clean a Tarantulas cage once a year the vermiculite is ideal for maintaining a clean environment for the Tarantula.

    So to sum up—If you want a ground dweller any container that is see through, secure and easy to drill holes in for ventilation is ideal. With arboreals the same container is also ideal if you can find a way to open it from the front or side. Even Tupperware containers are suitable for housing Tarantulas in.

    Heating : With these cold Irish winters we get most Tarantulas need supplementary heating. I keep mine in a garage which is not connected to the houses heating system so heating is definitely an issue for me. Most of the New world tarantulas can do quite ok if kept indoors in a house and the ideal temperatures are between 20-25 centigrade during the day and anywhere from 5-15 at night. The Chile rose Tarantula can even live in sub zero temperatures at night for a few nights at a time.

    Most people use heat mats which Ive personally found to be totally useless. Heat mats work by infra-red(which do not heat the air) which raises the ambient temperature by only a few degrees.So if say your house was at 15 centigrade then the heat mat would get the Tarantulas enclosure up to that ideal 20 degrees whereas in my situation the temperature in the garage was 3-7 degrees and the heat mat would only raise the temperatures to 12-15 which was still too cold.

    How did I get around this???
    I use 25 watt red bulbs which heat the air in the enclosures.I experimented with different wattages and found that anywhere from 15-25 watt work for me in all types of weather.So even on a night where its minus 5 degrees the enclosures air temps are still at 15 degrees.The bulbs are red because spiders cant see red light and will act totally natural under this kind of light.

    Feeding : I feed my tarantulas on pet shop bought crickets and locusts(for the Pinktoe as locusts can climb up glass)The crickets are €4.00 per 20 and the locusts are €5.00 per 6.This may sound a lot but 20 crickets will feed my Brazil black for a month and 6 locust will feed my pinktoe for a month or more.Usually a tarantula should be fed twice a week but again here I go against “normal” procedeure.I drop in a cricket every morning and if its not gone in the evening I take it out and try again next day—the reason its taken out is because crickets will nibble on a tarantula if it goes into moult and will possibly kill it.With the pink toe I leave the locust I will leave the locust there until its gone as locusts are not known to nibble on tarantulas which are moulting.

    Moulting: Tarantulas have whats called an exo skeleton and as they grow this is shed in the process called moulting. A new exo-skeleton grows beneath the old one and due to changes in hormones the moulting process is begun. In small spider lings a moult can take place every few weeks but in larger mature adults this is usually one a year.
    What basically happens is that the tarantulas back splits and then the tarantula pulls itself out of its old skin. The entire process can take up to 8 hours to complete and is fascinating to watch.
    A word of warning
    Tarantulas nearly always moult upside down lying on their back. So if you find your pet lying on its back DO NOT turn it right side up. It will probably die. Also tarantulas may go off eating for a few weeks to a few months before a moult and may take the same again to recover from a moult. The rule is not to feed a tarantula for 2 weeks after a moult, as its exo skeleton needs to harden.

    Tarantula defence mechanisms: Tarantulas first line of defence is to run away---They are more afraid of you than you are of them. Their second line of defence is itching hair, which they rub on their attacker. These cause a rash similar to nettle stings and are only caused by certain species, which are all new world species.
    The last line of defence is to bite their attacker and inject venom. The new world species have less potent venom than old world species and the reason is because of the aforementioned itching hairs. A bite from a new world species is similar to a bee sting where as a bite from an old world species can hospitalise you for a few days. I must stress that there has never been a death due to a tarantula bite ever recorded. The above fact is true of even the smallest spider lings and again is why I would never recommend an Old world species as a pet---***Edit***Likewise--Some old world speies can be aggressive but not dangerous as I still havent found a death from a bite from any tarantula species. They are too aggressive and dangerous. And don’t believe that there venom glands can be removed or their fangs. It’s not possible and would kill the spider. It’s a myth.


    Costs and recommendations:

    Generally the largest cost in acquiring a tarantula is the spider itself. If you buy from one of the two shops in Dublin a small spider ling will cost anywhere from 50euro upwards. If you are willing to take a chance and order from the UK then the same spider ling will cost anything from 5 pounds upwards. The danger is that the tarantula could die on the way over. It’s a chance you take.

    A cage can cost as little as 5 euro if you buy one of the plastic storage containers from the likes of Woodies.Likewise the heat bulb and fitting is usually around 5 euro for the whole lot.
    Food is cheap and lasts for weeks.
    So in effect if you were willing to buy from the UK then you could have your whole set-up up for less than 30 euro.

    Recommended species for beginners:
    Chile Rose: Grammostola Rosea or any Grammostola species.
    Mexican Red knee: Brachypelma Smithi or any Brachypelma species.
    Guyana Pink toe: Acicularia Avicularia or any Avicularia species.

    All the above are usually totally docile and do not usually bite. Mind you there are some individuals who have never been told these rules and can be very aggressive---but not dangerous. This is why I would recommend these species, they may bite but their venom is harmless.



    So hopefully this answers any questions regarding tarantula keeping. These are my particular experiences and I hope that they help you in choosing an interesting pet.
    Richie.


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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 274 ✭✭FAYESY


    I have a few care sheets on my website it is still a work in progress! so more articles will be added I have info on hamsters & general rodent care at the moment & will be added more soon.


    [mod edit- sorry faye, that link is no longer alive, it just opened pop-ups and ads so I had to delete it]


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,581 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Fayesy
    Put up a care sheet for those Sugar Gliders that you sell.They look very cute.I was going to buy the last lot from you but Ive never even heard of sugar gliders before now.
    Richie.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 274 ✭✭FAYESY


    Richie,

    I am working on my glider sheets at the moment I also have a friend who got a pair of gliders from me sriting up his experience of being owned by gliders! They make superb pets but need lots & lots of care & attention, I still have a pair available & I will only sell them to someone who has done loads of research their are loads of great site with care info just do a search, you could also check out the website [link had to be removed for same reason as the last link you posted, no longer alive - FnF] they have a message board as well that is very good & full of info.

    Regards

    Faye

    ps I will let you know once I've finished the sheet! am also trying to write my Iguana care sheet as I have got 2 crazy maniacs now! :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 400 ✭✭ClonmelMan


    Hey where can someone get a sugar glider from and how much do they cost?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 141 ✭✭boroughmal


    To richie
    Congratulations, what a good read. I never knew anything about spiders before & now I feel like an expert.
    I still think I will stick to fish though. My arachnaphobia is still there somewhere.
    Regards
    www.fishkeepingsupplies.com
    Aquarium and Fish Supply Tropical


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    >They should be housed in same sex pairs, ie pairs or groups of females, or a pair of bonded males.
    An adult male can be introduced to a baby male approx 6 wks old on neutral territory. If a pair of males living together smell a female guinea pig they will fight, keep them well seperate, better still in another room.

    >Housing: Indoors is best for guinea pigs, outdoors is fine in good weather or a shed for winter but indoors is the best way, they can be included more as part of the family and you can control the tempreture of the room. Damp weather effects guinea pigs health.

    >Guinea pigs can suffer from skin ailments, the main ones are mites, lice, and fungal infections. These can be treated at home however if the condition is severe or you are at all worried contact your local small animal vet.
    Visit http://www.gorgeousguineas.com/ for more information on their skin care and how to identify skin problems.

    >Never house them with rabbits, yes it is popular to do so but that doesn't mean it's best for the guinea pig.http://www.oginet.com/pgurney/rabbits.htm

    >Bedding: Hay (never straw), newspaper, carefresh, vet bed are all safe woodchips can cause allergies, skin problems and respiratory problems.

    >Food: Many foods on the market, Burgess Supa is a good quality food, foods that have been re-packed by the shop can lessen it's shelf life.
    Well washed fresh veg and veg is essential daily, broccolli, cabbage, cauliflower, apple..small amounts can cause lip sores if fed too much.
    Never feed ice breg lettuce in fact avoid lettuce as it has nothing much in it of benifit.
    As a treat, parsely, thyme, oregano and rosemary are amongst some safe herbs. Hay is essential, good quality fresh dry hay must always be available.

    >Fresh water in a drip feed bottle, these bottles are often not cleaned properly, you can use a cotton bud to clean the spout and inside it, you can soak it over night (it's good to have a spare bottle handy) in white vinegar. Bottle brush can also be used. If it's a large bottle fill it with white vinegar and some dry rice and shake it well to loosen dirt. Dishwasher tends to warp them.

    >Cleaning: Small pet safe cleaners from the pet shop or Trigene from the vets. Also white vinegar is an excellent and safe all round general cleaner.

    >Cleaning equipment: As above, brush and pan, kitchen roll, bin or bin bags, white vinegar. For stubborn urine stains soak in white vinegar over night. If you have a compost heap in the garden their waste makes excellent compost!

    >Bathing & grooming: Guinea pigs should be bathed every few months, depending on the guinea pig and how dirty they are.
    Every two months it is a good idea to give them a bath with Gorgeous Guinea shampoo to prevent fungal infections.
    A safe nail clippers for cutting their nails. A soft brush for their hair and a nit comb.
    You can bath them in the sink with warm..not hot water.
    Keep them indoors and warm until dry.

    >Worming: Every 3 months with Parazole or Panacur, ask your vet for the correct dosage for your guinea pig, as your guinea pig will have to be weighed.

    >Breeding: Do not breed unless you have full knowledge of their background, health etc. and unless you can find good loving homes and you know how to sex them correctly. At 3 weeks this is easier to do, females have a 'Y' shape and males if you press gently their 'mr man' will pop out (sorry there might be kids reading lol).
    Guinea pigs have a long gestation, it's really better to leave breeding to the experts.

    >Find a good vet! Very important, many vets are not used to dealing with cavies or other exotics, it is very very important to find a knowledgable vet.
    Guinea pigs have died from the wrong information and wrong treatment.
    Baytril is one safe antibiotic but must only be given if they really need it and must be given with a pro biotic like acedopholis.

    >Housing: Hutches are ok as shelter but most are too small. Best thing is if you can is build them a pen, a wire cover can be made if there are other animals living in the house. Puppy and rabbit pens also suit. If outdoors a run and hutch must be very secure and be wired top to bottom, not by cheap chicken wire but by proper aviary wire. It is best for your guinea pig to have a safe warm shed or be housed in the house.
    Lots of out of cage time too, to get used to handling and to give them some quality time.
    Sheds are great for you too, it means in wet or cold weather you can still enjoy sitting with your guinea pigs, and when cleaning them out you don't get soaked.

    >Suitable for children? : Yes they are BUT only under parent supervision, older kids can of course be given more of the responsibility but smaller children must always be supervised ..and sitting down..when handling guinea pigs, these are small fragile creatures who need careful handling.
    With the right care, handling and attention these do make good pets for kids and adults alike.
    Never expect a 5 year old to remember to feed them if getting any pet for any child no matter what age parents must be prepared to foot any vet bills etc.
    Children can help of course but can't be expencted to do everything and if the child gets bored of the pet it is up to the parent to take over.
    They should be taken on only if they are to be made a part of the family. Their life span is anything from 4 to 10 years, research is being done on exactly how long they live.

    >General health: A great website for general info. http://www.oginet.com/pgurney/index.html

    Recommended reading: Guinea Pig by Peter Gurney, published by Collins family guide. Or any of his books.

    http://www.guinea-pig-rescue.com/


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,581 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Fair play GPR.Although my experience with Guinea Pigs has been terrible(lost 5 in as many months).

    I obviously done something wrong but this will help new owners/those looking to start keeping Guinea Pigs.
    Ive stickied this for all to read!!!
    Richie


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Cheers, sorry to hear about your piggies :-(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 620 ✭✭✭RotalicaV


    Curious, do you handle yours often? I heard that even a small drop can be fatal, ie if they walked off your hand and fell a foot to the table or something.

    My mates interested in buying a spider (i hate them personally), thanks for the care sheet.


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,581 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    A low drop with a big Tarantula can rupture its (usually) huge abdomen which is always fatal although there have been successful recoveries using super glue to seal the wound.


    Smaller sub adults are safer in a fall as their abdomen hasnt reached its huge size yet.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 137 ✭✭wexhun


    Hi I just saw your sticky on guineapig care and now I'm worried! We have two male guinea pigs in a large run outside, we don't have a garage or a utility room or anywhere we can keep them inside. I thought that they would be OK as the run has a fairly sheltered small kennel type house for them to huddle up in the bad weather, but the weather here lately has been attrocious. I also saw that their bedding was not to be made up of straw:eek: Thats what I've been getting from the pet shop and the girl there said it was OK:eek: Am I causing them damage? I discovered they LOVE celery and now I'm wondering should they have it at all? Oh dear I thought I knew what I was doing...I need to do more research:( Have you any more tips?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Keep an eye on them for any early signs of respiratory problems over the winter.
    If there is nowhere else for them to go, make sure their run is in as sheltered a spot as possible. You can insulate their housing on the outside with Bubble Wrap, out of the reach of their nibbly teeth.
    Blue tarp is also good to drape over the run and weigh it down with bricks or rocks to help keep out the wind, the tarp is pretty cheap and sometimes Lidil and Aldi sell it, Argos do too.
    Make sure the rain cannot get into their housing, and that their drink area is seperate from their bed area the wetter their bedding the colder they will get. It's best to change them daily. Just replace your straw with hay, it's exactly the same price in the shops as straw anyway. Straw can more easily cause eye injuries, it's very pokey and also not as absorbant as hay, the other benifit is that pigs love to just lie down and stuff their faces in their beds. Hay is softer and warmer too.

    Their bedding area should be draught proof with a solid door give enough hay for them to toally bury themselves in.

    For extra comfort if you were prepared to pay out (they are a good investement) is a snuggle safe heat pad, you just stick it in the microwave every evening and pop it in their bed, it will stay warm all night long.

    I notice that a lot of websites say if your rabbit or pigs water bottle freezes cover it with a sock, my opinion is if a water bottle freezes than the area the animals are in is much too cold to start with.

    Try the tarp and bubble wrap it's cheap and handy to use it will make cleaning them out easier too because everything will be nice and dry and not all soggy.

    Small potting sheds make great little homes for guinea pigs and are cheaper than a lot of large hutches and cheaper than a large shed, also makes it more pleasant for the owner to go out and clean them, nothing worse than having to go out in the lashing rain and wind and try and clean out a run in the garden.

    Hope these tips help


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 137 ✭✭wexhun


    :) Thanks for your reply. My 6 year old loves her guinea pigs and I would hate to have anything happen to them:( I wasn't keen on getting them at first but when I was introduced to her friends guinea pig I have to say I was sold. They are a beautiful pet and hopefully will be a part of our family for as long as possible.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Sorry, think I forgot to answer about the celery part. Celery is fine for guinea pigs as long as you shop it up small.
    The longer stringy bits, otherwise, can cause choking..at least that's what I've read so just in case I chop it up into half inch pieces.
    I chop up their veggies in different shapes and sizes, makes it more interesting for them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32,417 ✭✭✭✭watty


    wexhun wrote:
    Hi I just saw your sticky on guineapig care and now I'm worried! We have two male guinea pigs in a large run outside, we don't have a garage or a utility room or anywhere we can keep them inside. I thought that they would be OK as the run has a fairly sheltered small kennel type house for them to huddle up in the bad weather, but the weather here lately has been attrocious. I also saw that their bedding was not to be made up of straw:eek: Thats what I've been getting from the pet shop and the girl there said it was OK:eek: Am I causing them damage? I discovered they LOVE celery and now I'm wondering should they have it at all? Oh dear I thought I knew what I was doing...I need to do more research:( Have you any more tips?

    I get a bale of hay from local farmer for 4 Euro.

    My pigs have been living outside for over 5 years.
    We had one stolen* and one died in Pregnacncy. One died due to illness despite prompt vet treatment.

    We don't breed anymore. Two boars live in one apartment and the 5 sows in a separtate run.

    During winter the runs are on the patio. During summer moved around on the Grass.

    We buy a sack at a time of Gloria Guinea Pig food (added Vit C) and keep it in the paper sack in a metal rodent proof bin.

    They love snow (rare) and hate wind. Rain and cold they don't mind much. In winter we put down fresh hay in run on Patio.

    They like a carrot stuck through wire before breakfast and get cucumber with the Gloria at Breakfast, but not at Supper.

    The occasionally get apple, fresh peppers, tomato, Dandilion and parsley. They would nearly kill for a sprig of parsley or dandilion. They also love cutting of Beech and hazel with fresh leaves or dried brown autumn leaves. They love raspberrry suckers and Brambles (sharp barbs/stalks and all). They will eat a whole strawberry plant!

    They love sitting in a little tunnel or under a board or head poking out of hay in the sun.

    We keep traps in the garden for Rats and mice especially in start of winter as the rodents will even eat out piggy's bowl in broad daylight with Guinea pig watching or even eating beside them!

    See http://homepage.eircom.net/~watty/cavies/cavies.htm from Jan 2001
    Martina is over five years old and is our oldest currently.

    We have a large cat carrier and small cat carrier and bring them all to vet about once a year for checkup. Unlike cats they LIKE the cat carrier as it is dark and tunnel like and full of lovely fresh hay.

    If a bought run or cage has a wire bottom remove it as it will make their feet go bad. The foot disease is easily fatal.

    *Cats & foxes don't leave a ladder against a nearly 7ft wall and leave the babies behind crawling around the patio.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 919 ✭✭✭Shelli


    I've read that neutering boars will not affect their personality, make them less aggressive or help them to get along with other boars, and that it won't stop them mounting each other and attempting to mate.Is this true?

    I have two young boars from different litters that live together and get along fine at the moment, I was wondering if I should get them neutered and if yes, how old do they have to be?

    What are the adavantages? I'm not planning on getting anymore GPs, so them living with females won't be an issue. Are there any health benefits or would it just be unnessesary to put them through it?

    Thanks,

    Shelli.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    Unlike some other pets neutering male guinea pigs won't change their personalities or make them more friendly towards other males.

    If the the two boyos are living together and get on grand then I wouldn't neuter them, they have each other for company and as long as they don't get a whiff of a female in heat and have plenty of space and food they should get on grand for life.

    I don't neuter any males unless they are going to live with a female or if a vet recommended it for health reasons eg if a pig had a tumour etc. because it is an op at the end of the day and the risk is higher than for a cat or dog, as far as I know there is no health benifits for neutering two males that get on well together, perhaps it does cut out the risk of certain cancers like in most animals but it isn't a common ailment as far as Im aware.

    So your two lads will be grand as they are, mounting is normal anyway there has to be one boss over the other, even the females with mount other females just a dominence thing eventhough it looks to us like they are batting for the other team :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 919 ✭✭✭Shelli


    Great news, thanks, glad I don't have to put the little guys through it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭hamsterboy


    The best companion for a neutered male is a younger female. We have been told this countless times by experienced owners and it is sooo true. Apparently the boar takes the female under his wing. it's amazing watching her follow him around the house, chirping like crazy!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,132 ✭✭✭Sigma Force


    A neutered male can live happily with any age female younger doesn't mean they will get on any better, age doesn't come into it except where you are introducing an adult male to a baby male. I have had many neutered males of all ages live happily with groups of females of all ages. If you put an age limit on it where does that leave older female guinea pigs..sad and alone. Personality comes into it too you might sometimes get a grumpy young female but a friendly older female. Age isn't an issue with females.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 Reptile Lover


    ClonmelMan wrote:
    Hey where can someone get a sugar glider from and how much do they cost?
    Sugar gliders are hard to find in Ireland,had a couple when i lived in uk. i know i keep plugging this site to everyone but put wnted advert on http://www.forumsvibe.com/reptiles/ its an irish site for reptile


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 36 tortoise17


    Removed on request of poster.


  • Registered Users Posts: 241 ✭✭gypsygirl


    Hi, I read your care sheet with great interest as I have two Torts and obviously want to do the best I can for them. I got them from a friend last year who was leaving Ireland and couldn't bring them. I think they are African Spur Thighed but can't be 100% sure, Will you give me tips on how to best care for them? How big will they grow?
    I bought a (cheap) greenhouse to house them in last summer and planted all the lettuces, veg, dandelions etc, that they eat, Torts really seemed quite happy in the greenhouse; moved them indoors with a heat lamp & UVB bulb for the winter and am now feeding them Store bought veg & small amounts of fruit weekly, They have access to fresh water at all times;
    I'm using very dried out peat as a substrate and they have a dark hide where they sleep, (the hide has a thermal heatpad beneath the substrate) The greenhouse was destroyed with the high winds over the past few months but I plan to replace that in the next two months or so with a stronger one.
    How much room will these guys eventually need as at this point they're taking over a bedroom. Can I winter them outdoors with a heatlamp & UVB bulb in a secure greenhouse? At the moment they are fairly small, "Smiff" the smallest of the two is about 4 inches diameter & "Jones" is about six inches. Any advice would be welcome.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,083 ✭✭✭sillymoo


    Does anyone have a care sheet on goldfish? My boyfriend is thinking of getting freshwater fish


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 36 tortoise17


    sorry for the very late reply!!
    if you post a pic of your tortoise i will identify it!:D
    african spurred tortoises are the 3rd largest tortoises in the world!!:eek: ,
    the will grow to enormous sizes!!!,

    if they are african spurred tortoises they eat a high grass diet, supplement the diet with calcium powder and nutrobal!!, this is very important,
    especially for these fast growing tortoises!!!
    they of course will need dandilion, sow thistle , panseys etc,
    avoid those super market foods, they are very low in fibre and nutrition.

    cant wait to see a pic,

    i will try and help you further when species is identified!!;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    GOLDFISH CARE SHEET

    (ALSO APPLICABLE FOR SMALL KOI AND ORFE UP TO ABOUT 1.5 YEARS OF AGE)


    Origin


    Many years ago in ancient China carp we're kept in shallow fish farms resembling rice paddy feilds.The fish were being farmed to help feed the ever increasing chinese population. These carp were plain black or brown and unremarkable. One day some farmers noticed a few golden carp we're being hatched from these black carp eggs, taking it as a sign from the heavens they kept these fish and bred them together, creating the first goldfish and giving birth to a hobby thats still very much alive today. Goldfish keeping.

    A few things you should know before you get started

    Types of Goldfish

    GOLDFISH are related to the CARP family of freshwater fish, and cousins of Japanese KOI (Also domestic fish), They are fresh water fish and cold water fish. There are 2 basic types of Goldfish, common and fancy goldfish. The common goldfish is the standard orange goldfish everyone is familiar with, while the fancy varieties include fish of various shapes and colours, some have two caudal fins,( "Tail" fins) others have no dorsal fin (The fin on their back) etc just like the variations in the many breeds of dogs today.

    There are important difference's between the fancy and common varieties, speed and toughness.

    Goldfish with the standard body shape, including common, Shubunkins, and comets etc are faster and more robust then the fancier varieties such as Black moors, Lionheads and oranda's. In an ideal aquarium the fast moving fish should not be kept with the slower fancier types as this can cause problems as the slower fish become stressed by not being able to keep up and compete with the faster goldfish at feeding time, they are also more likely to get sick as a result of this stress and also may not achieve there full potential size and beauty simply because the faster fish eat more and outgrow them. If you choose to keep fancy and common goldfish together it is ok just remember the fancy fish will not grow large in this situation.

    If a first time fish keeper try stick to the tougher types, Common goldfish, Shubunkins, comet's and anything with the average fish like shape.
    Try avoid the stranger shaped goldfish such as the Lionhead, Ryukin, Bubble eye's etc your pet shop will point out the different types of goldfish to you if you ask.

    NOTE: Avoid black moors as a beginner because they require a slightly higher temperature then other goldfish and if this need is not met their life expectancy is low.They will most likely get sick and spread disease to the other fish.

    Goldfish can be kept with many simular size fresh water fish provided you do your research first, Don't add any other animals such as snails or Tropical freshwater fish. Young Koi and Orfe are recommmended but not minnows because they will be quickly become dinner for the Goldfish.



    Requirements (These can be quite expensive so be prepared!:eek: )


    It is a common misconception that Goldfish (or any freshwater fish for that matter) can live in simply fresh water, But in reality they require a carefully cultivated eco system contained within an aquarium which requires cleaning, monitoring, adjusting and maintenance. If you are the type to put a goldfish in a bowl of water and expect it to live as long as you feed it then stop right now! The best advice I was ever given about goldfish was "to keep healthy fish you must keep healthy water". You should spend more time looking after the water then the fish themselves!

    Don't get a fright when you read of all the things required for an aquarium, many pet shops sell complete starter packs containing everything or nearly everything you will need. ok for an aquarium containing goldfish you will need:

    An appropriate sized Aquarium:
    with a hood or "lid" with a place to fit the light. most are sold complete with hoods. You can use a large goldfish bowl provided there is a surface area larger then the widest body of water. Contrary to tradition goldfish bowls are generally not a healthy environment to keep your Goldfish. Always remember surface area is more important than dept to a goldfish, to provide for proper oxygenation.

    You will need at least a 10 Gallon tank for 2 - 3 small goldfish because they will grow quite fast. I recommend a 2 foot long x 1 foot tall x about 1 foot wide to keep about five 4 inch goldfish. Don’t go by what you see in the pet shop set ups, remember these often overcrowded tanks are only temporary homes and not suitable for long term housing.

    Tank placement is very, very important. Do not place in direct sunlight or near a heat source such as a radiator, I cant stress this enough if you want to avoid all sorts of problems be sure to take this advice. The quietest, darkest corner in the house is the best place for your fish. Remember water is very heavy so be careful the surface you place it on can hold the weight.

    Polystyrene sheet: place the tank on a sheet of polystyrene cut to the right size, to evenly spread the weight of the tank and ease strain on the glass. This prevents cracking of the glass as you fill it with water.

    A Filter: many types are available from your local pet shop, remember to check the filters specs against the size of your aquarium, to be sure it can manage the amount of water present.
    Power head filters are probably the easiest to maintain for beginners altough There are better options such as external canister filters whith several layers of chemical and Biological filters.
    Its a good idea to get a powerhead filter that oxygenates the water as well (it sucks in water from the tank and some air from above and pumps out bubbles of air in water). This way you wont need a separate airstone. I use 2 powerhead filters, one large pumping water, one small pumping water infused with oxygen. Again ask in your pet shop.

    A fluorescent light (for freshwater fish, ask in your pet shop) and an electrical starter for it: Goldfish require light in order to keep healthy, stress free and colourful. the amount of light also regulates their seasonal behaviours such as breeding etc.

    A substrate: the pebbles or sand you usually see at the bottom of a fish tank is called the Substrate. It is important as it provides a filter in itself. A place for waste to break down, a place for helpful bacteria to cultivate and some pebbles for the fish to clean there mouths on. Its also natural for the fish to have a substrate so it makes for healthier happier fish. Use small rounded (smooth) Gravel pebbles for the goldfish if possible, I've had a few fish choke on pointy pebbles in the past, luckily I managed to save them all. Don't use coral sands or anything like that, remember goldfish are freshwater fish and are quite messy, sand will cloud the water when these fish go rummaging for food.

    A net: of suitable size for catching and moving Fish

    A magnetic glass cleaner: very handy

    A siphoning kit of some sort and a bucket: For cleaning. a piece of standard garden hose will do.

    A water conditioner specifically for freshwater fish:
    A liquid that breaks down harmful chemicals found in tap water. available at any pet shop costs around 10 euro, Also available is Stress Zyme (tm) and other similar products which help boost the bacteria levels in a newly set up aquarium.
    It is also advisable to invest in a PH testing kit just to make sure the water in your area isnt too acidic or alkaline. Goldfish thrive at the PH 7.2 - 7.6 range, its best if you check these levels regularly as possible, at least every second month.

    Decor: a nice rock or ornament for them to hide behind, be careful the rock isn’t made up of potentially harmful minerals such as Lime or Calcium. Don’t use Concrete either!!

    Plants: are optional, me I don’t use them, they are messy, hard to keep and tend to get eaten and pulled around the tank by the fish. They provide Oxygen and aid in the breakdown of harmful chemicals. As mentioned above a powerhead filter that gives off oxygen does the same job and is easier to maintain.

    A BOOK! Despite all I have said go out and buy a professionals book on goldfish or coldwater fish keeping, it will be an essential tool in understanding your goldfish.

    So now you've probably come to realise there is quite a bit to keeping Goldfish, well there’s more!!

    Maintenance

    As with all animals, wash hands before and after cleaning of the enclosure

    If routine maintenance are not preformed the fish will get sick and eventually die, the following Tasks are ESSENTIAL in caring for your goldfish. NEVER USE ANY DOMESTIC CLEANING PRODUCTS WITH YOUR AQUARIUM (with the exception of glass cleaning agents for the outside glass surfaces, be careful none of this gets in the tank so keep the hood closed!)

    1: Weekly 10 percent water change OR fortnightly 20 percent water change. Don’t change all the water in one go unless absolutely necessary, the water takes a few weeks to develop the right bacteria in order to break down harmful waste produced by the fish, Changing the water completely will remove most of this helpful bacteria. Remember to condition tap water with commercially available water conditioner before adding it to your tank.

    2: Clean the filter medium. basically clean the sponge in the pump.
    Clean the sponge when the water begins to pump slowly, simply remove your pump from the aquarium, (plug it out first:rolleyes: ) and remove the sponge and wash IN WATER FROM YOUR AQUARIUM, not tap water as this will kill the helpful bacteria. Obviously remove some tank water for this purpose, don’t wash in the actual aquarium:o !!

    3: clean the Glass inside with a magnetic glass cleaner. To remove algae build-up from the glass and let in light. Don’t use a tissue or any cloth. Don’t bother cleaning the rear glass of the tank as goldfish may enjoy grazing on the algae here.

    4: Examine your fish regularly. Check their behaviour. are they flicking their fins? is their dorsal fin (back) lowered? are their eyes glazed over? are they having trouble swimming to the top or bottom of the tank? are they listless or rubbing against the decor?

    Check their appearance, Are their bodies bloated or "twisted" in any way? Any Fungus like growths, white spots, parasites etc?

    All of these are signs that something is wrong and should be examined and treated accordingly. I wont dwell on fish health here because that would require a lot of space. Ask your pet shop for the Interpet (tm) guide to fish health, most pet shops have them and they are free and very useful in diagnosing problems.

    In general a healthy fish is alert, swimming freely (except at night, when they rest) clear eyed and all fins are extended like sails. There should be no wounds, white freckle like spots, rotting of the fin or mouth or bloating.

    When purchasing fish look for the above signs of health and disease, do not buy a healthy looking fish that has been kept with sick fish, only accept fish from tanks that contain healthy fish:cool:

    Adding the fish to your new Aquarium:


    Ok here's the part no one like's to hear but it's necessary I’m afraid. You must set up the tank and let the pumps run for 2 weeks before buying and adding the fish. This is in order to give the bacteria needed by the fish time to cultivate, a head start if you like. If you don't let the water settle like this you are basically dropping the fish into "dead" water which is completly unlike carps natural habitat of freshwater teeming with microscopic life. It's not recommended as the fish may die or develop disease within the first 2 weeks.
    To add the goldfish, float the bag they came in in the tank water for 10 minutes to allow the temperatures to even out gradually. Goldfish don't take well to sudden changes in temperature.

    Eco System


    Heres a basic layout of the mini ecosystem in an aquarium. Goldfish eat and produce waste containing harmful ammonia (other causes are the breakdown of uneaten food, decaying plant matter, and dead fish) The bacteria which grows on the filter medium converts the ammonia to less harmful Nitrate and finally the plants or algae in the tank convert nitrite to harmles nitrate. If ammonia or Nitrite is not Broken down in this way the water will become Toxic to the Fish. The Filter, Algae and Plants take care of this.This is why It's so important to let the tank run for 2 weeks before adding the fish as a new aquarium set up does not have the ability to break down these chemicals. It is also the reason a large tank is required and an adequate filtration system is installed, And why overcrowding of fish is to be avoided.

    The objective of a fish keeper is to maintain a balance between:

    1 The amount of water.
    2 The amount of water the filtration system can handle.
    3 The amount of fish.
    4 The amount of Oxygen being supplied to the water through bubble creating pumps or plantlife.
    5 The amount of algea and bacteria.
    6 The amount of light recieved daily ( 14 hours summer, 12 hours winter)
    7 The amount of regular partial water changes.

    This sounds hard but trust me the right aquarium set up will provide all this for you without you really having to worry about anything beyond maintenence, feeding and fish health.


    Feeding


    Each owner has his or her own ideas feeding for goldfish. To be safe stick with the specifications on the fish food container. Goldfish can live for up to 46 years of age and Koi have been recorded at over 220 years of age!! the secret to this longevity?? simply put " Maintain Good water quality and Do not overfeed" I feed my fish small amounts every day in the morning and evening, with one day a week when I do not feed them at all. Buy a high quality fish food, I find the small pellets the best because they don’t dirty the water and they digest well. Supplement Their diet with other foods such as freeze dried live foods like tubifex worms. Also some greens can be fed to your fish (Research first!!) as well as the occasional live earthworm. (Chop up for small fish). Generally speaking feed twice daily as much as the tank can consume in 2 minutes, and have one day a week when they are not fed, to encourage foraging for uneaten food particles. Also remember that a fish will eat anything edible that fits in it's mouth, including smaller fish so be careful when choosing different size fish.


    This is just my general guide to keeping Goldfish, This also applies to Koi and what are commercially marketed (mistakenly) as "orfes", but these must eventually make there way to a pond as they will outgrow the aquariums quickly.


    So why go to all this trouble?:confused:

    well It's a very rewarding hobby if like me you can appreciate the beauty and grace of these fish and there really isn't much work involved once the initial setting up period and teething problems have been worked out.

    I hope you either learned enough to get started or learned enough to know you've changed your mind about getting goldfish!! Either way my job is done so last but not least remember: A Goldfish will live a long time, so think about the commitment your making before Purchasing these animals.

    (Note: all information here is based on my lifelong experience keeping coldwater fish, However I urge potential and new fish keepers to purchase a good book on Goldfish/coldwater fish keeping written by a certified professional as they will go into greater dept about all the issues raised here, and will provide invaluable referance in years to come)


    Best of Luck and enjoy!!!:D

    Regards
    Jim


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,581 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    Merged for you Jimkel.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    Hellrazer wrote:
    Merged for you Jimkel.
    cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,324 ✭✭✭tallus


    That's excellent jimkel


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 590 ✭✭✭Jimkel


    tallus wrote:
    That's excellent jimkel
    :D Thanks very much:D If I missed anything just let me know and i'll add it


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