The Defender thread

O.A.P · 14-01-2015 12:34am

Its a dash out job and that makes it a bit fiddly and time consuming , if the cable is worn take it out and turn it around that way the worn splines wont effect anything.
The cogs on the arm itself maybe worn ,that would need to be replaced if its the case.
Either way dash out to fix and that was a days work the first time I did it, I can take it out and put it back in or around 3 hours now though, after 5 or 6 times doing it.

banjolin · 14-01-2015 1:11am

Some advice. It IS a dash out job and there are LOTS of screws. I've had it off twice and each time I had screws left over. So label the screws as you remove them. I did the second time and still managed to have some left.:rolleyes:
While you have the dash out check the top of the bulkhead for any rust.

101sean · 14-01-2015 3:26pm

Yep, dash top off at least!

If it is the wheelbox, do not buy a Britpart one or you'll be doing the job again in a year!

Without checking, I think Td5 wiper parts are different to earlier ones so be careful when ordering.

If your washer jet pings off in the frost, you can just about change that through the ashtray hole!

As banjolin says, you will have screws left over too, plenty missing out of my dash.

banjolin · 14-01-2015 4:50pm

Good point about the washer. I have had five replacements and this is just the weather for it to happen. I don't replace the whole unit any more. One day I actually saw it pop off onto the bonnet as I drove along slowly and I managed to retrieve it and put it back on, only for it to pop off again when I wasn't paying so much attention. When you buy a new unit you can heat the nozzle in boiling water (the bit that goes on the outside) and pop it off the pipe. So long as the inner part that projects from the bulkhead isn't damaged you can pop the new nozzle onto it with some strong glue. Better still drill it with a fine bit and pop a small screw in.

roman0red · 14-01-2015 5:28pm

Guys thanks for the feedback n tips. I've had the dash off a few times running a cable to the radio n replacing a wiper relay switch and yes I ended up with spare screws. &#55357;&#56883;

I saw the references on the various forums about not using spurious parts for this particular job so I need to order genuine Landrover parts. not good timing given the weather conditions and I don't know what to order until I disassemble the various parts so I'm looking at a few days off the road &#55357;&#56862;.

Thanks n I'll let you know how I get on

101sean · 14-01-2015 7:32pm

Allmakes and Bearmach parts are usually OK, genuine can often be reasonably priced though.

roman0red · 17-01-2015 6:18pm

Folks
This one has stumped me - dash out and I now have access to the wheels boxes but for the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the wiper arm..... doh!

See pic attached - it's a 03 TD5

Any suggestions??

Cheers

101sean · 17-01-2015 6:24pm

It should just pull off, from all that white stuff it looks like it's corroded on to the spindle.

If you don't have a small puller, tap around it with a small hammer to break the seal. If that's the wheel box you are replacing just cut through the spindle and drive it out on the bench.

O.A.P · 18-01-2015 12:14am

Try Will Smiths way

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFmdSLs1EUw

banjolin · 18-01-2015 12:48pm

I'm sure there must be a law against that. In public anyway.

MedusaV8 · 19-01-2015 9:59am

Plus gas if you can find some is a very good penetrating oil to help remove. The spline inte rear wiper if really fine yours just looks a little corroded as Sean said. I used copper slip when I put mine back on my V8. My current 90 is without a wiper until the fella sorts the wiring for me. It's only been 3 years. Lol.

roman0red · 19-01-2015 8:52pm

Thanks guys - got jiggy with it as oap recommended and hey presto&#55357;&#56841;....off she popped....turns out theirs splines on the spindle coming from the wheelbox and the wiper arm is slipping there and not in the wheelsbox. I've ordered a full kit just in case - working out at 75yoyos delivered to the house for wheelsbox & arm from topping in enniskillen. Not cheap but can't take a chance in current weather conditions
Last question....I had left this on the long finger but now that I have it stripped ....when I turn off the wipers using the wiper leaver they don't return to the "home position" - they stop at whatever position your turn the leaver off. Normally you'd expext them to return to the horizontal position

Any ideas / suggestions ?

O.A.P · 19-01-2015 9:21pm

I knew you would understand what I meant

The park switch on your wiper motor is gone, its a little plastic part on the top and a bit to the side of the motor about the size of a matchbox.
It will cost 10 or 12 euro for one if I remember right and as you say now is the time it fix it while its already striped.
Good luck.

roman0red · 27-01-2015 7:41pm

Ok - wiper blade and wheel box replaced n the jobs a goodin - not an easy job I'll Hav u know but we got there in the end.

I replaced the park switch also n now I hav my intermittent wiper option back working which is good but I still cant get the home option working i.e. When I switch off the wiper motor the wipers stop immediately and don't return to the "home" position

Any suggestions?

Thanks folks

banjolin · 27-02-2015 7:54pm

Just a quick update on a previous post. I finally got around to doing something about the three amigos and my dodgy ABS modulator. I had isolated the problem as a sticking pump. The motor has an oscillating shaft and where that enters the valve/piston block there is (supposed to be) a ball bearing. Mine was in bits and rusted. Somehow water got in there. Hooked the motor to a power supply it was running fine. So for the want of a bearing worth pennies an ABS modulator that costs a couple of grand has to be scrapped.
Good news is I got a unit from an 03 Discovery and it's a straight swap; no plumbing or wiring changes. I took a punt that as the ABS ECU controls which wheel brakes and when, I should follow the wheel pattern on the outlet ports from the old Defender unit, ignoring the wheel labels on the replacement. The ports on the Discovery control different wheels to the Defender.

All sorted. NCT here I come.

Yawlboy · 04-03-2015 11:49am

Currently rebuilding my 1993 Defender 110 200tdi and need some advice on parts. I need to get the turbo replaced or rebuilt. I need a new radiator and possibly an intercooler. I also need the oil pipes for the turbo.

Can anyone recommend someone/someplace?

Moffett · 28-05-2015 9:32pm

Looked at a CSW recently with rust wash running out the rivets on the rear quarters. There us one on donedeal at the minute with the same ailment. Does this mean the body capping are shot? It was hard to pinpoint a source!

banjolin · 28-05-2015 9:38pm

Have you got a link to the picture on DD?

101sean · 28-05-2015 10:09pm

You can thank the bean counters at LR for stopping galvanising the body cappings several years ago. It is a common problem but solvable with a bit of effort. You can use s/h or buy new galved cappings and swap them by undoing loads of bolts and jacking the roof up.

Look carefully at the doors on a SW especially the second row ones, they rot for fun. My 00 CSW needs 4 new doors or extensive welding. Also the B and C pillar frames and the body crossmember unique to SWs are also prone to tin worm.

maccored · 07-07-2015 3:33pm

I have just joined the defender club with this 2001 td5 pickup. I'd love to sell that back though and put on a proper one ... anyone know the proper terminology for whatever the back section of a defender is called?

banjolin · 07-07-2015 4:06pm

Welcome to the club. I presume you know what you're getting yourself into.

Truck cab is what you got, with a rigid canopy. What you want is a Hard Top. You probably need a whole new roof, front and back. I don't think you can just put a hard top rear section onto a truck cab. Could be wrong.

maccored · 07-07-2015 4:13pm

banjolin wrote: »

Welcome to the club. I presume you know what you're getting yourself into.

Truck cab is what you got, with a rigid canopy. What you want is a Hard Top. You probably need a whole new roof, front and back. I don't think you can just put a hard top rear section onto a truck cab. Could be wrong.

cheers. yeah, Ive already noticed the 'stick yer arm out the window' issue. Lucky for me I like having the window open.

101sean · 07-07-2015 7:29pm

Hi and welcome.

As banjolin says, you need a hardtop roof and sides and a rear door, simple nut and bolt job. If you do fb, the Land Rover Owners Ireland group hold auctions for parts, probably get one that way.

Icyseanfitz · 16-07-2015 7:38pm

thinking of painting my 88 110, put a 200 tdi into it last October, and just finished getting my bulkhead repaired so i think a new paint job would go nicely

thinking matte black, good colour on a defender? il be doing it with my landrover mechanic buddy so hopefully wont break the bank

101sean · 19-07-2015 11:54am

It'll look good but matt will mark very easily. It will cover a multitude of sins though unlike a gloss finish which shows every imperfection!!

Icyseanfitz · 21-07-2015 11:46pm

just about finished sanding the body, try to get the wings doors and bonnet done tomorrow, really looking forward to seeing it done (some amount of work sanding though :eek: ) il get a couple of pictures up here when finished!

another reason i was thinking matt black was that if some paint comes off it will be real simple to just spray some aerosol paint on

O.A.P · 23-07-2015 5:47pm

How are the doors for tin worm the bottoms of the doors on my 99 110 are only held together with paint and the door cards.
The DOE ( or what ever its called now ) is next month and I'm not looking forward to it .

sparkman · 05-08-2015 9:17am

I know it's an ancient problem folks, but I'm winding up a small business so strictly speaking, my commercial 02 Defender 110 will be for private use. I'm sure I can still keep taxing/insuring as-is but there's a risk C&E will pull me up on that.
How do they figure out if you have a legit business or not at the side of the road?
What kind of annual tax am I facing if I start taxing it privately (02 2.5 TD5)?
Can I even do that? i.e. tax it privately instead and then insure as a private vehicle aswell? Will it just scare off insurance companies because it's "physically" commercial, i.e. no windows, back seats, etc?
Other options (aside from camper conversion which seems impossible)? Thanks...

banjolin · 05-08-2015 3:10pm

Say nothing. To anyone. You won't face any more scrutiny than you do now. Private tax is pushing on for 1100. Getting something taxed commercially for the first time is where most come a cropper. If you have it already don't be so quick to give it up. What's a legit business anyway? Buy some hens and get a flock number if it puts your mind at ease. Someone will insure it any which way, apart from those **** who said they will no longer insure cars over ten years old.

Just my humble opinion, of course. Don't quote me on any of the above.

sheesh · 05-08-2015 6:25pm

sparkman wrote: »

I know it's an ancient problem folks, but I'm winding up a small business so strictly speaking, my commercial 02 Defender 110 will be for private use. I'm sure I can still keep taxing/insuring as-is but there's a risk C&E will pull me up on that.
How do they figure out if you have a legit business or not at the side of the road?
What kind of annual tax am I facing if I start taxing it privately (02 2.5 TD5)?
Can I even do that? i.e. tax it privately instead and then insure as a private vehicle aswell? Will it just scare off insurance companies because it's "physically" commercial, i.e. no windows, back seats, etc?
Other options (aside from camper conversion which seems impossible)? Thanks...

A friend has a van for business he is stopped fairly regularly

Kevhog1988 · 05-08-2015 6:32pm

i have an ifor williams canopy and a front bullbar for a defender if anyone has any interest.

101sean · 11-08-2015 8:51pm

Hard to say in the Irish market but Defender prices are strong with late Td5s in demand. In the UK it could easily fetch as much as £12k as it's really clean and low miles.

banjolin · 12-08-2015 3:39pm

Apart from the chequer plate (why, oh why?) that looks like an XS model which will have ABS/ traction etc. and that could be good or bad depending on your point of view, but 2005 XS 90s go for between £13k and £15k sterling, which when you consider they cost about 26k new ten years ago takes some beating. They hold their value like crazy.

Given the value of the pound against the euro you should seriously consider selling it in the UK. As Sean says clean TD5s are in big demand. It really doesn't make sense to sell them here as you are unlikely to realise the true value in what is a totally different market.

maccored · 14-08-2015 10:29am

anyone have any handy youtube links or tutorials in removing the headliner in a 2001 110?

maccored · 14-08-2015 10:10pm

maccored wrote: »

anyone have any handy youtube links or tutorials in removing the headliner in a 2001 110?

aha! not needed. Take out the small clips by the doors, the rearview mirror, interior light fixture and the visors and out it pops. 10 euro for some glue and 45 mins in time = redone header. thankfully mine only has the front cab bit so it was handy.

O.A.P · 27-08-2015 8:35pm

I replaced both wheel boxes and wiper arms today but it only improved them a little .

They had a habit of either sweeping from 4" up the screen too an inch past it altogether (on drivers side ) or starting an inch below the screen too about center of the steering wheel.
I replaced the park switch a few years ago (different symptoms obliviously)and they have worked fine since, so it must be the motor this time no ?
I thought an electric motor either worked or stopped not develop its own ideas as to where it should start a finish?

As always any advice appreciated.

banjolin · 29-08-2015 1:00pm

My own (admittedly limited) experience would be that the motor can fail, but if its broke nothing moves. I have had to replace one. You probably know this but the motor pushes a threaded rod from left to right, to and fro, which has teeth that engage a gear/cog on each wiper. This to and fro action rotates the gear/cog and turns the wiper. If the motor is buggered it stops both wipers.

I also had a problem where the drivers side wiper was doing the fandango but the other was fine. I had to replace the wiper box assembly. What I noticed was that while the replacement had a metal gear the original was plastic. It probably just wears out.

If you have replaced the wheel boxes on both sides then the problem most likely must be a relay or the motor assembly. If a relay fails I would have thought it was an on or off issue. That leaves the motor assembly, which includes the threaded rod. Have you checked the rod for wear and tear where it engages the wiper gear, or observed the motor in action with the dash side panel off? If the threaded rod itself is fine, is the motor action correct? You could also check if the contact/clearance between the threaded rod and the cogs is correct and not slipping.

Its a fairly simple mechanism. Its just such a huge pig of a job to remove the dash to access it.

foxy farmer · 07-09-2015 9:30pm

Is a cracked windscreen on a Defender best left to the experts and put through my insurance? The rubber seal on the outside has small cracks at the corners. Would this need replacing?

O.A.P · 08-09-2015 12:29pm

Insurance if you have windscreen cover and I think all policies do now.
It won't effect your premium next year either so it makes
No sense to pay for the glass and repair it yourself .

101sean · 08-09-2015 7:54pm

Agreed, don't bother DIY, get it done under the insurance and tell the fitter you want a new screen rubber as well or you'll get leaks.

O.A.P · 08-09-2015 9:45pm

Can anybody tell me if Fuchs Titan atf 4000 is a suitable replacement for MTF-94 for use in an R 380 defender gearbox
I have been told by the local motor factors that it is but I'm hoping some wise heads on here can confirm and maybe save me wrecking the gearbox thanks for any help.

Mr.Boots · 10-09-2015 1:33pm

Are those YELLOW!!!! Defenders on Donedeal worth a look or have the balls been rung out of them?

dooroy · 10-09-2015 7:31pm

O.A.P wrote: »

Can anybody tell me if Fuchs Titan atf 4000 is a suitable replacement for MTF-94 for use in an R 380 defender gearbox
I have been told by the local motor factors that it is but I'm hoping some wise heads on here can confirm and maybe save me wrecking the gearbox thanks for any help.

Had a look at this and all the literature keeps referring to it as ATF - so as far as I can see it is not a suitable replacement for the MTF-94.
As you are probably aware the R380 suffered because LR recommended the use of ATF in the box originally , to 'cover up' a gear selection problem.
The fluid/oil used in a manual box is not suitable for an auto box.
Hence The MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) is designed for a manual transmission.

O.A.P · 10-09-2015 8:22pm

dooroy wrote: »

Had a look at this and all the literature keeps referring to it as ATF - so as far as I can see it is not a suitable replacement for the MTF-94.
As you are probably aware the R380 suffered because LR recommended the use of ATF in the box originally , to 'cover up' a gear selection problem.
The fluid/oil used in a manual box is not suitable for an auto box.
Hence The MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid) is designed for a manual transmission.

Yeah I have read up a fair bit about it and the problem is ( as I understand it anyway) that an auto box takes a lot more oil than a manual and the oil is meant to pass through a cooler to keep it at the correct operating temperature .
An R-380 gearbox only takes 2.75 liters I think and it has no cooler.
Thanks for the reply Landrover want 20 euro a liter for MTF- 94

cheaper than fixing the gearbox I suppose.

dooroy · 10-09-2015 10:59pm

I know its expensive but as you say cheaper than a gearbox.
Have a look at this http://www.difflock.com/evolution1 expensive I know .
A few years ago I had a D2 with the R380 and a while after buying it the box started to get noisy.
I drained it and what came out was like dirty water - the previous owner had maintained it well but it was ATF that was used and was at this stage giving no protection to the bearings etc .
I refilled it with the Difflock oil and got another 2 years out of it - had this been used earlier it would have been even better.
There is more to the 'oil' than simply a matter of quantity - the manual and auto boxes require very different properties from their lubricants .

O.A.P · 11-09-2015 12:01am

dooroy wrote: »

I know its expensive but as you say cheaper than a gearbox.
Have a look at this http://www.difflock.com/evolution1 expensive I know .
A few years ago I had a D2 with the R380 and a while after buying it the box started to get noisy.
I drained it and what came out was like dirty water - the previous owner had maintained it well but it was ATF that was used and was at this stage giving no protection to the bearings etc .
I refilled it with the Difflock oil and got another 2 years out of it - had this been used earlier it would have been even better.
There is more to the 'oil' than simply a matter of quantity - the manual and auto boxes require very different properties from their lubricants .

More to it than quantity I know .
I brought an empty 5 liter bottle of MTF 94 to a local motor factors (a good shop ) hoping they would have or order the equivalent oil. They did not have anything in stock so took all the details off the bottle I had and ordered 3 liters of Titan ATF 4000 (that's what their supplier recommended )
I paid 30 euro for 3 liters of it Saturday morning but had my doubts when I got home , ATF is ATF no mater what bottle its in and yes I knew all about the trouble before MTF 94 was recommended .
I went to landrover yesterday got 3 liters of MTF , I just knew the other stuff was wrong before anyone answered my post but I'm stuck with 30 euro worth of oil that's no good to me now .
I have a receipt but they ordered for me and probably wont sell it on so I hate bringing it back

dooroy · 11-09-2015 2:56pm

Its a pity suppliers don't put more effort into finding out whats what - bloody annoying to be left with 3 litres of the Titan .
Maybe someone with an auto will take it off your hands .

Wild Garlic · 11-09-2015 5:04pm

Howdy defender fans.
Seriously thinking about taking the plunge but sadly my knowledge of these babies are very limited. Was thinking about having a look at something like this:
https://cars.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/land-rover-defender-series-3-2-3-56-tax/10381137 or should I be looking at something a bit fresher?

101sean · 11-09-2015 7:20pm

That's a very nice late Series 3 (not a Defender!!) and more of a collectors item than everyday transport. Prices are climbing for good ones but that's probably a bit over the top. Similar money would get you a later 110 Defender.

banjolin · 12-09-2015 10:22am

Wild Garlic wrote: »

Howdy defender fans.
Seriously thinking about taking the plunge but sadly my knowledge of these babies are very limited. Was thinking about having a look at something like this:
https://cars.donedeal.ie/cars-for-sale/land-rover-defender-series-3-2-3-56-tax/10381137 or should I be looking at something a bit fresher?

It's a big jump buying a Series, even a fairly late one, if you haven't had experience of driving bangers. They all require lots of maintenance, and fuel, and bits drop off. Nothing on the road looks cooler but there is a price to be paid for the cachet of owning a classic. And fresher won't necessarily be better. Defenders (came after Series) are the same. Its a different type of vehicle ownership. Sort of bi-polar. Lots of ups and lots of downs.

The Defender thread

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