Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

vectra wrote: »

I understand what you meant.
I meant I would use my fogs in the fog.

LED = BRIGHT light = Disaster in the fog.

Yellow bulb in fog is the way to go.

Aha I get you, although if they are focused properly to the ground you won't have trouble with light spread blinding you.
I never did and I'm one of them (pricks ) who has them on 24/7.

Special Circumstances wrote: »

Don't put LED's in fogs. There's nothing cheapens a car like chinese blue tinted drls, which is all the fogs wil be if you fight leds to them.

Nightbreaker might still be a little too yellow. If so maybe some branded bulb with a slight blue tint that shines cool white,not gammy blue.


IMHO, as always.

You can get decent 4k colour types SC, them chinese copies always blow in a week anyway!

Special Circumstances wrote: »

Well my take on it is this.
You've seen the led replacements for 60w household bulbs? And the heatsink needed even on ones made by the very best companies with the most efficient drivers and LED's ?

What thermodynamics cheats do you think the boys in shenzen are privy to that they can replace a 55w bulb without any of that!

Measure any shenzen pos for power input. Complete fairy stories in the descriptions. I'm pretty sure the claimed light output is fiction too.

I'll reverse away from you now
The dreaded "Thermodynamics" has been used, you'll give me nightmares tonight

Point taken though, I never thought about testing the bulb, although the lumen output was good!

Special Circumstances wrote: »

I had good led lights for cycling. Still wouldn't match a halogen 55w headlight bulb and definitely not without heatsink etc.

Damn right.. "In this forum we obey the laws of thermodynamics " haha.

If you're looking for a good light, I have an Ultrafire XML-T6.
It's about 2k Lumens and is definitely on par.

Its an amazing light for a single huge led....

Special Circumstances wrote: »

There are good led lights with the right drivers. 50 odd smds driven off resistors aren't gonna cut it as a 55w halogen replacement though!

Right you know more electronics than I do, I have no head for them

All I know is the XML-T6 is a single led?
Crazy light, on full zoom you get vision for about 300m!
On no zoom you get vision for 50m, but across a sweep of 120 degrees or so

Changed the fuel filter on my dads laguna.



Read the full story here!

Giving a hand with the front wheel bearing on another laguna we broke a 1/2 inch teng ratchet. Mad looking to see that sort of steel break like that.

I'd never use ratchet to loose any "serious" nut/bolt. Breakers bar first, then ratchet.

Yesterday I changed the oil and filter on the Punto. This si the muck that came out of it :eek::eek::eek:



Really really black, like what you would expect out of a diesel. That's from all the deposits in the engine from the years of neglect it got before we bought the car. Eventually after regular changes it should become nice and clean again



Then Today I serviced the CLK. Every time I do anything on that car at all it's so easy and pleasant to work on. They really designed the car with servicing it in mind. It helps as well that the car had a full history when we got it and was well looked after. The oil that came out of it was a rich dark brown An awful lot nicer than the muck that came out of the Punto.

Ded_Zebra wrote: »

Yesterday I changed the oil and filter on the Punto. This si the muck that came out of it :eek::eek::eek:

Think I have the same make oil pan as you!

Rubber glove.

cletus wrote: »

I thought the days of gapping your own plus were long gone

That's what most people say. Then you check your plugs and the gap is often wrong, for me anyway. Unless my feeler gauge is wrong :P

corkgsxr wrote: »

[...]

Iv never gapped any plugs. I don't think there's a need.

^^ This. ^^

Pops_20 wrote: »

That's what most people say. Then you check your plugs and the gap is often wrong, for me anyway. Unless my feeler gauge is wrong :P

Quite often happens when a plug's ended it's lifetime or there's something wrong with the engine.

Speaking about gapping - there are some plugs you'd damage them rather than set a gap. Like this:



0.4mm thick electrode! :eek:

Patww79 wrote: »

This post has been deleted.

I got the cheap chinese one, for 5.99 and i was using it today and works perfect and very accurate. Just look on ebay. OBD Bluetooth android.

I also got a free app on android called OBD Car doctor and works great too, obviously not as good as Torque but does the job.

Not mine,

Front right spring decided to give up on mother-goose's c4, 2 days before the nct..

Only noticed as she started to reverse out of the yard, would have been curtains for the tyre if she had been driving forwards!



Pain in the hoop to get at the top mount. All 14,16,18mm stuff on these, it's nice to use clean sockets & spanners every now and then :pac:


New spring on, was hard to get the tophat back on even with the clamps wound fully down, (fcukin hate spring clamps anyway)The drop link wasn't the best so slapped in a new one, test is tomorrow, hopefully nothing more will be needed.


Cost: €53 for spring, €10 for drop link.

Next job is to sort out a siezed caliper on the pajero, ignoring it hasn't worked, shouting at it didn't work, and spraying water at it just created a lot of steam. :pac:

The Bora had 'issues' with the boot ever since I got it. The latch would work about 25% of the time, but would always open with the remote control button (aftermarket one) so I never looked into it, since I could always open it. On Monday, when I opened it, the motor made a slightly different noise than usual and the boot wouldn't open with the remote or the latch anymore (so I had to take out my gym bag and hockey stick through the back door).

Today I jumped in the back to have a look at it, through the back ofcourse.


Had to take off the carpet cover and then I was able to open it from inside.


I'm pretty sure someone has done something to it before, judging by that questionable tape and the fact that the key doesn't work in the lock.


I don't really know what's going on there, but I wiggled the wire and checked all the joints and then it magically opened with the remote too. It's not 100% sorted though.

On the bright side... weight reduction :pac:

That's condensation. You mean spray it in from the key hole?

Found the coolant leak on my 740 after 2 weeks of hunting and head scratching. Turns out it only leaks when the car is cold, not hot. It's gotten worse so it's now actually dripping from the car making it finally detectable.

It's the central coolant transfer pipe in the middle of the block, the worst leak of them all.

Fantastic news!



Now the decision of whether to do the job myself or get someone else to do it.

It would be the biggest job i've done yet, but it seems quite straight forward. Most say it's a 5-6 hour job. Suppose it's down to cost versus headache; i'd also like to be able to say I managed it myself, but would need a solid day at it. Will get it priced tomorrow!

I test drove the car on saturday a vast improvement since changing the top mount bearing, but she still knocking about on uneven road. So I now need to replace the front arb bushings as that's the only other part that hasn't been changed on the front end.

Finished off the mother's c4's nct jobs today,

Changed a few bulbs,
Fit new track rod end
Tracked it. - used a relations old school tracking kit - mirrors and stuff. Was interesting to do, and a piece of cake.



Also went at the pajero, freed the slider bolts on the caliper, took it off, took off the disc and tightened the handbrake mechanism (drum type) all that's left now is to get the fcukin piston moving, it comes out but by-jaysus it doesn't want to go back in :pac: need g-clamps.