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Astec alarm

  • 08-09-2014 4:21pm
    #1
    brian2604
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭


    Hi

    I am looking for the installion manual for my astec alarm,im moving a couple of sensors and need to replace the battery,cant find my copy anywhere

    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian2604 wrote: »
    Hi

    I am looking for the installion manual for my astec alarm,im moving a couple of sensors and need to replace the battery,cant find my copy anywhere

    Thanks

    Sent you the manual by P.M.

    www.altor.ie



  • #3
    brian2604
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭brian2604


    Got it thanks.


  • #4
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    brian2604 wrote: »
    Got it thanks.

    No probs, any other questions let us know :)

    www.altor.ie



  • #5
    thurlesdrunk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭thurlesdrunk


    Anyone know where I could pick up some window sensors for this alarm. Need to replace 2 sensors. Cheers


  • #6
    thurlesdrunk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭thurlesdrunk


    Anyone know where I could pick up some window sensors for this alarm. Need to replace 2 sensors. Cheers


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  • #7
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    thurlesdrunk wrote: »
    Anyone know where I could pick up some window sensors for this alarm. Need to replace 2 sensors. Cheers

    Global sensors can be used as replacements for the Astec type.
    If you need to add a inertia/contact simply put a 680 ohm resistor across the reed.
    Have a look here for a local supplier.

    www.altor.ie



  • #8
    leonidas12
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭leonidas12


    hi all

    I have a problem with my alarm astec 63 v
    cod engineer needs to replace the battery and remove the error
    once I had saved it but now Is lost pleas for help...many thanks


  • #9
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    What are you looking for? The engineer code?
    Whats the error you need to remove?


  • #10
    Chrismvideo
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭Chrismvideo


    Hi Altor / Koolkid..

    Like a lot if people on here I have a Astec 63 alarm installed in my house from back in 2008, I have since found out the company that installed it are out of business. I am getting the fault light and code 61 FAULT call engineer? I tried to remove the panel of the control box and the alarm outside started going off and the panel displayed TAMPER. I turned off the mains power and the orange light in the control box went off, still everytime I go to touch it the alarm goes off?
    I'm trying to replace the battery but can't seem to do anything without the alarm going off? Each time I try to enter 1744 nothing happens? Any help would be much appreciated by me and all my neighbours..

    Thanks
    Chris


  • #11
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Remove the mains fuse and remove the battery link to completely power of down the system while you replace the battery.


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  • #12
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Hi guys,
    Just thought I'd continue this thread rather than creating another one. So I've powered down and removed the battery link. Can't see the battery, I'm guessing its in the back somewhere. I read elsewhere I have to remove the PCB?

    35ml8gy.jpg

    So I have to locate the couple of screw holding the whole circuit board in place, remove them and leave the board hanging loose while I undo the battery? Is that right?

    Quite messy!


  • #13
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Hi guys,
    Just thought I'd continue this thread rather than creating another one. So I've powered down and removed the battery link. Can't see the battery, I'm guessing its in the back somewhere. I read elsewhere I have to remove the PCB?

    35ml8gy.jpg

    So I have to locate the couple of screw holding the whole circuit board in place, remove them and leave the board hanging loose while I undo the battery? Is that right?

    Quite messy!

    It was always a bad design for a battery location. I would just be careful not to touch the board as if you short out anything you can blow it.

    Here is the screw locations.
    The battery link is not removed in your photo.

    340813.JPG

    The battery is behind the PCB. There is also a cable tie holding it in place which needs to be removed.

    www.altor.ie



  • #14
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Thanks a million altor. Its a bit weird though I have to say. I'm trying to take the battery out now. I started by turning off the mains first. The internal alarm went off - but the battery must really be shot, because the internal ringer was going off but there wasn't power on the control panel for me to turn the alarm off. I tried removing the battery link first, and then the mains. But then the external ringer is going off - how can it be going if the mains is off and the battery link is removed?

    I can't be spending the time trying to get the battery out with bells going mad all around me!


  • #15
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Thanks a million altor. Its a bit weird though I have to say. I'm trying to take the battery out now. I started by turning off the mains first. The internal alarm went off - but the battery must really be shot, because the internal ringer was going off but there wasn't power on the control panel for me to turn the alarm off. I tried removing the battery link first, and then the mains. But then the external ringer is going off - how can it be going if the mains is off and the battery link is removed?

    I can't be spending the time trying to get the battery out with bells going mad all around me!

    The external bell has its own battery. When you power the system down, battery and mains this will make the bell ring for 20 minutes then turn off. Its a bit of a job due to bad design if you are not use to it but it is possible.

    www.altor.ie



  • #16
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    altor wrote: »
    The external bell has its own battery. When you power the system down, battery and mains this will make the bell ring for 20 minutes then turn off. Its a bit of a job due to bad design if you are not use to it but it is possible.

    So would the typical electrician working on it just leave it ringing for the 20 mins, or would they enter the engineers code or something to stop the external ringer going?


  • #17
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    So would the typical electrician working on it just leave it ringing for the 20 mins, or would they enter the engineers code or something to stop the external ringer going?

    It would be left ringing in most cases if the engineer code was not known.
    It would not take an engineer 20 minutes to replace the battery tho :D
    The default engineer code is 1174 but as the system is down powered it will not have any effect.

    www.altor.ie



  • #18
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    altor wrote: »
    It would be left ringing in most cases if the engineer code was not known.
    It would not take an engineer 20 minutes to replace the battery tho :D
    The default engineer code is 1174 but as the system is down powered it will not have any effect.

    I'd like to bring the battery along to the shop to be sure I'm getting the same one, so I won't have the new battery on hand to swap in quickly. So when I follow the procedure to get the battery out, and the external ringer goes off for 20 minutes, is that it? Its not going to keep going off every 15 minutes after that or anything?


  • #19
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    I'd like to bring the battery along to the shop to be sure I'm getting the same one, so I won't have the new battery on hand to swap in quickly. So when I follow the procedure to get the battery out, and the external ringer goes off for 20 minutes, is that it? Its not going to keep going off every 15 minutes after that or anything?

    It will go off for the 20 minutes then turn off. Its the initial trigger of having no power from the system that sets this in motion. It will not go off again till you power the system back up.

    This is the battery you need.

    www.altor.ie



  • #20
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Thanks again altor. I'm sure its on boards here somewhere, I looked but couldn't find specifics. Is there a generic vibration(window) sensor that can be bought and made to work with the astec systems? Probably have to add a resistor I know. I'm heading to REW in Finglas later today to get the battery and a contact sensor. They have some window sensors I think, but they're about €14+VAT, which sounds pricey


  • #21
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Thanks again altor. I'm sure its on boards here somewhere, I looked but couldn't find specifics. Is there a generic vibration(window) sensor that can be bought and made to work with the astec systems? Probably have to add a resistor I know. I'm heading to REW in Finglas later today to get the battery and a contact sensor. They have some window sensors I think, but they're about €14+VAT, which sounds pricey

    If its a vibration sensor any global sensor will work.
    The lads in Finglas will sort you out :)

    www.altor.ie



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  • #22
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Got some generic stuff, they're a good help in there alright.
    The vibration sensors are straight forward, just put a 10k resistor across the terminals.
    The door entry sensor is a little trickier though. The guy says he believes the idea is to put two 680 ohm resistors in parallel to it, but he wouldn't give me precise instructions as he's not licensed to. Here's the back of the door entry sensor...

    2r5qdcw.jpg

    I'm guessing I need to wire it so that the alarm supply and the resistors are like below, does this look right?......

    2cen52q.jpg


  • #23
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Got some generic stuff, they're a good help in there alright.
    The vibration sensors are straight forward, just put a 10k resistor across the terminals.
    The door entry sensor is a little trickier though. The guy says he believes the idea is to put two 680 ohm resistors in parallel to it, but he wouldn't give me precise instructions as he's not licensed to. Here's the back of the door entry sensor...

    2r5qdcw.jpg

    I'm guessing I need to wire it so that the alarm supply and the resistors are like below, does this look right?......

    2cen52q.jpg


    That is correct. They are not vibration sensors tho, just contacts. If the contact goes on a window it need just one 680 resistor. Vibration sensors dont need any.

    www.altor.ie



  • #24
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    altor wrote: »
    That is correct. They are not vibration sensors tho, just contacts. .
    Yes, its the front door one
    altor wrote: »
    If the contact goes on a window it need just one 680 resistor. Vibration sensors dont need any
    So you're saying I don't need the 2 680's in parallel, just one of them? And I don't need the 10k resistor on the vibration sensor?

    I think what he said was that they will work without the resistors, but my alarm display won't tell me what zone went if it was this zone that activated it.


  • #25
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Yes, its the front door one


    So you're saying I don't need the 2 680's in parallel, just one of them? And I don't need the 10k resistor on the vibration sensor?

    I think what he said was that they will work without the resistors, but my alarm display won't tell me what zone went if it was this zone that activated it.

    You will need the two resistors for the sensor to work as an entry/exit.
    Thats the front door sensor.

    Vibration sensors are wired in series on the alarm loop. They will work without resistors. The panel will indicate the zone activation the same way it would if an Astec type sensor was used.

    If you want to use the contacts on the windows then one 680 resistor is wired across the contact for it to work correctly on an alarm zone.

    www.altor.ie



  • #26
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Grand, thanks a mil, you've been a great help. I'll let you know how I get on, if the neighbours haven't killed me with the outside bell going :)


  • #27
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Grand, thanks a mil, you've been a great help. I'll let you know how I get on, if the neighbours haven't killed me with the outside bell going :)

    Haha I am sure you will be grand, if you have any other questions let us know :)

    www.altor.ie



  • #28
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    The vibration sensor has more ports than the old one did. There's a pair labelled "Tamper" and a pair labelled "Sensor". The 2 white wires from the in-built vibration sensor line up with the "Tamper" pair, so I'm guessing the wires from the alarm system are wired in here? What's the "sensor" ports for then?

    t7yhow.jpg


  • #29
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    The vibration sensor has more ports than the old one did. There's a pair labelled "Tamper" and a pair labelled "Sensor". The 2 white wires from the in-built vibration sensor line up with the "Tamper" pair, so I'm guessing the wires from the alarm system are wired in here? What's the "sensor" ports for then?

    t7yhow.jpg

    If it is an end of line you will have the resistor going into the second and third terminals as you look at it. Then the two cores go into the next two. This will complete the circuit. If it is in the middle of a loop the easiest way is to put two blacks in the middle two, then two reds in the sensor terminals.

    The middle two are for the tamper spring. The sensor are for the shock head.
    Please note when fitting these the sensor has an arrow which must face up.

    www.altor.ie



  • #30
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Got the battery, door entry/exit and one of the vibration sensors fitted no bother, all seems to be working fine. External ringer only going for 7 minutes :) Thanks again


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  • #31
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    kelbal wrote: »
    Got the battery, door entry/exit and one of the vibration sensors fitted no bother, all seems to be working fine. External ringer only going for 7 minutes :) Thanks again

    Brilliant, delighted you got it all working :)

    www.altor.ie



  • #32
    SeeDubbleYew
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭SeeDubbleYew


    Hi, I am getting a battery fault. How do I know if it's the main battery or the bell box battery? Can anybody send me a copy of the engineers manual. Thanks


  • #33
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    SeeDubbleYew wrote: »
    Hi, I am getting a battery fault. How do I know if it's the main battery or the bell box battery? Can anybody send me a copy of the engineers manual. Thanks

    The battery fault you are getting is the battery in the control panel.
    The external bell has a battery. If you wanted to test this you could down power the system completely, mains and battery and it should ring.

    Sent you the manual by P.M.

    www.altor.ie



  • #34
    SeeDubbleYew
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭SeeDubbleYew


    Tested the external as you suggested, no sound. Tested it through engineers test, and no sound either. Looks like connection to external sounder needs testing, will have to get the ladder out next week. I suspect it must be something to do with the battery, because fault only appeared after a power cut.


  • #35
    SeeDubbleYew
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭SeeDubbleYew


    altor wrote: »
    The battery fault you are getting is the battery in the control panel.
    The external bell has a battery. If you wanted to test this you could down power the system completely, mains and battery and it should ring.

    Sent you the manual by P.M.

    Thanks for the manual btw.


  • #36
    PeteFalk78
    Closed Accounts Posts: 762 ✭✭✭PeteFalk78


    Whats the best way to test the smoke alarms on this system?


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  • #37
    fred funk }{
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    PeteFalk78 wrote: »
    Whats the best way to test the smoke alarms on this system?

    Press the test button :)


  • #38
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    Hi,
    I just want to add on to this thread with another sensor issue I have on my Astec alarm. All my upstairs window are in Zone 5. The last few nights I've been woken up with the alarm beeping for a bit, before it fully goes off (see picture below). I have 2 questions about this......

    (1) There's no contact sensor on the upstairs windows - just vibration ones, so I don't understand how its giving a beeping warning before it goes off. Does this point to a more serious problem in the main system, rather than sensors?

    (2) If it is just a dodgy sensor, how do I find out which one it is, there's 9 upstairs? Is there a test you can run from the control panel to test each individual sensor, or else I think I've heard you can take out each sensor and run a resistance test on them to find a faulty one? I have a multimeter for this if necessary
    23h7ucx.jpg
    thanks


  • #39
    PeteFalk78
    Closed Accounts Posts: 762 ✭✭✭PeteFalk78


    fred funk }{ wrote: »
    Press the test button :)

    I've always wondered about this though. That just proves that the alarm has got power - how do I know that it can actually detect smoke i.e. the detector is clogged up with dust.


  • #40
    Sequence 365
    Registered Users Posts: 104 ✭✭Sequence 365


    kelbal wrote: »
    Hi,
    I just want to add on to this thread with another sensor issue I have on my Astec alarm. All my upstairs window are in Zone 5. The last few nights I've been woken up with the alarm beeping for a bit, before it fully goes off (see picture below). I have 2 questions about this......

    (1) There's no contact sensor on the upstairs windows - just vibration ones, so I don't understand how its giving a beeping warning before it goes off. Does this point to a more serious problem in the main system, rather than sensors?

    (2) If it is just a dodgy sensor, how do I find out which one it is, there's 9 upstairs? Is there a test you can run from the control panel to test each individual sensor, or else I think I've heard you can take out each sensor and run a resistance test on them to find a faulty one? I have a multimeter for this if necessary
    23h7ucx.jpg
    thanks

    It's sounds like your entry contact on the front door is faulty & you are getting the beeping because the entry time is starting . Or you have another entry /exit contact wired into the system on another window or door


  • #41
    altor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,767 ✭✭✭✭altor


    PeteFalk78 wrote: »
    I've always wondered about this though. That just proves that the alarm has got power - how do I know that it can actually detect smoke i.e. the detector is clogged up with dust.

    For the reasons you have mentioned above it is recommended to have these detectors replaced every 5 years.

    www.altor.ie



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  • #42
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Sequence 365 wrote: »
    It's sounds like your entry contact on the front door is faulty & you are getting the beeping because the entry time is starting . Or you have another entry /exit contact wired into the system on another window or door

    If you have a faulty device or connection on any zone it can incorrectly register as contact entry. The best way to find it is check the resistance on that whole zone.
    Disconnect the zone from the panel & remove any end of line resistors,
    Set you meter to 200 ohms and connect the pair to the 2 meter leads.
    On a length of cable long enough to reach all your windows on zone 5.
    Make a note of the reading in ohms. One by one tap every sensor & open and close every contact. After a tap or an open close the resistance should return to the around the same value. If it does not disconnect that device , close offthe pair wired into it & move on. Replace any that you had to close off.


  • #43
    auralabuse
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭auralabuse


    Hi, I have a faulty sensor which is bypassed for the time being but want to replace. Could I get the installation manual sent on?, I can get the engineers code from original installer, many thanks.


  • #44
    kelbal
    Registered Users Posts: 839 ✭✭✭kelbal


    auralabuse wrote: »
    Hi, I have a faulty sensor which is bypassed for the time being but want to replace. Could I get the installation manual sent on?, I can get the engineers code from original installer, many thanks.

    The installation manual won't tell you anything on how to replace a sensor. Just ring around electrical suppliers and say you're looking for a sensor to work on an Astec alarm. I've gotten ones before that are HKC brand which work fine. Got them from REW in Finglas. Very simple to install.


  • #45
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    The sensor will work fine, if there is a contact built in you will need to convert it or it won't work.


  • #46
    auralabuse
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭auralabuse


    Hey, I'm replacing like with like from an uninstall elsewhere. Still looking for installers manual if anyone can forward on, cheers


  • #47
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    I have PMed you that manual.


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