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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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    #2822
    Midlandsman80
    Registered Users Posts: 247 ✭✭Midlandsman80


    Hi all, we havr a large Free standind boiler stove, i hear a good bit of wind from The stove vents,should i put a cowl on it? Any recommendations for stopping down draft? How do you know if its taking heat from The room? Thanks


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    #2823
    mightyreds
    Registered Users Posts: 2,785 ✭✭✭mightyreds


    Cathellen wrote: »
    I have a stanley lismore boiler stove installed and not finding it effective. I burn coal and wood but the stove has a mechanism whereby it shuts itself down when the water has reached the required temp.but it closes down before the rads are hot enough and it's not throwing out heat to the room. I was told by stanley to turn down thermostat on pump...this helped a bit but not really doing what I expected....8 rads, double room.

    Have the same stove not having problems with the rads but it's Def not throwing out heat to the room, when I close the bottom door fire dies completely no matter what the air flows are set at anyone any advice on these stoves?


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    #2824
    foley_b
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭foley_b


    I'm thinking of putting in a double sided stove between two rooms approx 13x16 each, might go for a boiler version if the plumbing is not too major. what make should I be looking at and are they as efficent as single sided stoves?


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    #2825
    therealmccoy
    Registered Users Posts: 179 ✭✭therealmccoy


    foley_b wrote: »
    I'm thinking of putting in a double sided stove between two rooms approx 13x16 each, might go for a boiler version if the plumbing is not too major. what make should I be looking at and are they as efficent as single sided stoves?

    Are you looking at an inset double sided boiler or free standing? Also, what space have you to work with?


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    #2826
    foley_b
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭foley_b


    Hi, what I'm doing is removing a stanley oil cooker and putting condenser boiler outside,where the cooker was has a 4in brick wall which I'll knock through leaving a space 4ft wide by 5ft high. I'll be putting a free standing stove here and maybe connecting to the heating via existing pipes, depending on what way new boiler will be connected to system.


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    #2827
    Johnnystorm
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭Johnnystorm


    Hi can any one help me I bought a 2nd stove and want to put it in as its a rented house I can't. Take out the fire place. I got a mate of mine to make me up a flue. That comes out from my stove. And up the chimney about 2 foot. I had to get a 4inch pipe mmade as the back of the fire (the cast iron part) from that to the lethal on the front of the wall. Is only 4inch wide. So I put it from the my stove up the existing chimney flue only to find that the existing flue is a bout. A six inch flue do I need to seal the to together or wat can I use as I can't use ciment. Any info be gratr


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    #2828
    etcetc
    Registered Users Posts: 392 ✭✭etcetc


    Is it possible to put 2 boiler stoves into the one system and isolate which rads they serve?

    Currently have a 12Kw stove with 8Kw going to rads and 4 to the room but it is unable to give hot water and serve the 5 radiators ( 1 double 1400, 2 singles 1290 and 1170 and 2 smalls 470) not counting the radiator in the room stove is in. So depending on which plumber I talk to

    1. The pipe runs are not ideal. The pipes to radiators were originally put in concrete floor but some of them leaked so we ran new pipes down the walls this time. So now the pump has to pump the water to them up and down. This plumber suggests adding another pump

    2. The boiler size of 8kw is not capable of running the 5 radiators efficiently. This plumber suggests isolating kitchen( double radiator) and bathroom and replacing with electric radiators or getting one of the new cooker stoves and plumbing it to do these 2 radiators and the hot water

    Anybody?

    Will installing a heat genie help?


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    #2829
    rs2ksligo
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭rs2ksligo


    Has anyone on here fitted a inis mor boiler mk2 stove im thinking of changing my stove and info or advice appricated


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    #2830
    micks_address
    Registered Users Posts: 8,456 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Hi Guys,

    Query re painting a Stanley Cara insert matt black Stove.

    Ours has a few scuffs here and there and Stanley sent me out a can of 'senotherm' black paint to paint it with. Thinking of painting it in the summer season when not lighting to allow smells to dissipate etc but has anyone painted a matt stove before? Any special prep needed or brushes etc? Is it easy enough to achieve a good finish?

    Cheers,
    Mick


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    #2831
    therealmccoy
    Registered Users Posts: 179 ✭✭therealmccoy


    rs2ksligo wrote: »
    Has anyone on here fitted a inis mor boiler mk2 stove im thinking of changing my stove and info or advice appricated

    We have fitted a few of these. Absolute beast of a stove. (In a good way!). It'll take 4 lads to lift it (and possibly struggle). Will heat up to 18 rads (based on 4ft single panel rads) and will give up to 12kw to the room.

    You'd need a big room/open plan area for this stove tbh, the sheer size of it means it's not suitable for a standard 3-bed Semi-D. T'wud take up too much space and blast you out of the room with the heat.

    From a quality point of view Inis are a fantastic brand of stoves. We have literally no issues with any of their stoves.


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    #2832
    Scruff
    Registered Users Posts: 4,222 ✭✭✭Scruff


    About to get a Startford EB25 installed and connected to the existing closed pressurised gas central heating system by using a Systemlink 30kw HeatGeanie. It will do DWH and 1 of our 2 zones at a time (downstairs or upstairs zones controlled via a manual switch).
    I'd like a timer switch but installers say for safety reasons it has to be a switch that will always have 1 of the two zones selected. Is there no such timer switch out there?
    Went with the HeatGeanie as it has a safety feature where it is connected to the mains water so that in the event of a power cut the excess heat can be dumped down the drain. Header tank in attic and gravity circuit.
    Anyone have any experience of a heat transfer set up like mine?


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    #2833
    Wallacebiy
    Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Wallacebiy


    onesoma wrote: »
    Maybe not such a big problem - I disconnected a back boiler a few months ago in my house, with not too much difficulty. I did get a plumber in to have a look, he told me what to do, and i did it myself.

    You say you can't turn off the water in to the house, but is there a stop cock going in to the hot water cylinder? If so, you should be grand.

    Sorry for the delay


    Had a guy over and have a plan of action on this now


    2 weeks ago , the dishwasher failed and I put a new one in and found the tap that I've been looking for for 9 years , underneath it ...



    I've changed dishwashers 2 and never spotted it before ...


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    #2834
    irishgeo
    Registered Users Posts: 9,369 ✭✭✭irishgeo


    Is is possible to install a stove With a back boiler in a semi detached house with a shared chimney? I don't have a back boiler at present.


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    #2835
    therealmccoy
    Registered Users Posts: 179 ✭✭therealmccoy


    irishgeo wrote: »
    Is is possible to install a stove With a back boiler in a semi detached house with a shared chimney? I don't have a back boiler at present.

    Is it a shared chimney breast? Do you know if you have a dedicated chimney flue for where you are looking to put the stove?

    In theory, if you have a dedicated flue liner for the stove it is possible to do it, you'd need to get a plumber out to do a survey on plumbing works needed.


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    #2836
    Galego
    Registered Users Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭Galego


    I just got an Insert Stove fitted with a new fireplace. I have been told not to light any fires for 5 days and even after that do not light to full output. How many days would I wait till I can light the insert to full output?


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    #2837
    HeidiHeidi
    Registered Users Posts: 28,800 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Galego wrote: »
    I just got an Insert Stove fitted with a new fireplace. I have been told not to light any fires for 5 days and even after that do not light to full output. How many days would I wait till I can light the insert to full output?

    I don't mean to be smart, but would the installer not be the best person to ask about this? Or else the manufacturer of the stove?

    I got a standalone stove fitted last year, and as far as I recall I had to light two or maybe three small fires in it and let it completely cool between each one - but I think those were as much to cure the paint on it as anything - but both the installer and the "manual" had specific instructions about what to do.


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    #2838
    Galego
    Registered Users Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭Galego


    HeidiHeidi wrote: »
    I don't mean to be smart, but would the installer not be the best person to ask about this? Or else the manufacturer of the stove?

    I got a standalone stove fitted last year, and as far as I recall I had to light two or maybe three small fires in it and let it completely cool between each one - but I think those were as much to cure the paint on it as anything - but both the installer and the "manual" had specific instructions about what to do.

    I did ask the fitter but his answer did not match with the manufacturer instructions. Fitter said 5 days. Manufacturer instructions 24 hours.

    I am referring to a Henley Achill.


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    #2839
    Citizenpain
    Registered Users Posts: 1,908 ✭✭✭Citizenpain


    With the Achill I Just lit 3 small fires at first -- i wasnt living in the house though when it was installed so it was installed about a month before I lit anything.


    There was a strong enough smell - so you might want to do it at a time when you can leave windows open for ventilation


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    #2840
    12 element
    Registered Users Posts: 718 ✭✭✭12 element


    Is it normal to have the 'rib' on the flue about 15mm above the entrance to the top of the stove? Twice now I've heard a pop and seen a puff of smoke coming out from around the flue. I've attached a picture to explain what I mean.


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    #2841
    terryk81
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭terryk81


    12 element wrote: »
    Is it normal to have the 'rib' on the flue about 15mm above the entrance to the top of the stove? Twice now I've heard a pop and seen a puff of smoke coming out from around the flue. I've attached a picture to explain what I mean.
    looks to me as if the pipe is not fully pushed into the flange on the stove, also looks to be at a bit of a angle going into the flange there should never be smoke coming out at that point . the rib on the pipe is just the way its manufactured but in my opinion the rib should sit right down at the top of the flange


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    #2842
    Brianne
    Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Galego wrote: »
    I just got an Insert Stove fitted with a new fireplace. I have been told not to light any fires for 5 days and even after that do not light to full output. How many days would I wait till I can light the insert to full output?

    Yes we lit small fires for 5 nights and then after that it was grand. We left it 24 hours before first fire.


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    #2843
    Galego
    Registered Users Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭Galego


    Citizenpain wrote: »
    With the Achill I Just lit 3 small fires at first -- i wasnt living in the house though when it was installed so it was installed about a month before I lit anything.


    There was a strong enough smell - so you might want to do it at a time when you can leave windows open for ventilation

    Thanks.

    Silly question now. How do you clean the inside of the stove? Can you clean the fire bricks (the burnt black color)?


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    #2844
    Citizenpain
    Registered Users Posts: 1,908 ✭✭✭Citizenpain


    I just Clean the glass -- Wet Newspaper , dipped in the ashes in the stove and wipe the glass

    I also find i get a better fire if i let some wood ash at the bottom of the stove

    I leave a few logs in it to hide all the ugly bits :)


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    #2845
    Jack180570
    Registered Users Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    Galego wrote: »
    Thanks.

    Silly question now. How do you clean the inside of the stove? Can you clean the fire bricks (the burnt black color)?

    I don't think you should need to clean the inside of an insert stove if it's a non boiler stove. We have a boru i500 non boiler stove burning only firewood and the firebricks are as clean as the day we bought it.
    The burnt balck colour when it occurs is due to low firebox temperatures. This can be caused by damp firewood or poor operation of the stove - not enough air, or poor stove design.
    Regarding using ash to clean the glass... this can only be done if you are burning ONLY FIREWOOD... coal ash will scratch the glass front of your stove.


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    #2846
    Jack180570
    Registered Users Posts: 349 ✭✭Jack180570


    Galego wrote: »
    Thanks.

    Silly question now. How do you clean the inside of the stove? Can you clean the fire bricks (the burnt black color)?

    I don't think you should need to clean the inside of an insert stove if it's a non boiler stove. We have a boru i500 non boiler stove burning only firewood and the firebricks are as clean as the day we bought it.
    The burnt balck colour when it occurs is due to low firebox temperatures. This can be caused by damp firewood or poor operation of the stove - not enough air, or poor stove design.
    Regarding using ash to clean the glass... this can only be done if you are burning ONLY FIREWOOD... coal ash will scratch the glass front of your stove.


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    #2847
    gofasterdad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 145 ✭✭gofasterdad


    I want to install a free standing stove in an extension at the back of the house.

    Ideally, I would like the flue to come out the back of the stove, through the external wall, and then angle upwards (45 degrees) towards the main body of the house in order to get the required height.

    One stove shop has told me that this should be no problem, but a second stove shop has said that it cannot be done, as the section of flue at 45 degrees can only be a maximum of 1 metre long.

    I have attached a side elevation which should give an indication of what I am trying to do.

    Has anybody done anything similar before, or can you offer some suggestions / guidance as I don't know where to go from here.


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    #2848
    DenisCork
    Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭DenisCork


    gofasterdad wrote: »
    I want to install a free standing stove in an extension at the back of the house.

    Ideally, I would like the flue to come out the back of the stove, through the external wall, and then angle upwards (45 degrees) towards the main body of the house in order to get the required height.

    One stove shop has told me that this should be no problem, but a second stove shop has said that it cannot be done, as the section of flue at 45 degrees can only be a maximum of 1 metre long.

    I have attached a side elevation which should give an indication of what I am trying to do.

    Has anybody done anything similar before, or can you offer some suggestions / guidance as I don't know where to go from here.
    Most flue manufacturers state a maximum of 20% of the overall flue height can offset from the vertical. Ideally the whole flue would be vertical.


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    #2849
    gofasterdad
    Closed Accounts Posts: 145 ✭✭gofasterdad


    Thanks Denis,

    I found the attached article which is in-line with your assessment. It looks like I will either have to move the stove closer to the house which is not ideal, or just give up on the stove idea altogether.

    http://specflue.com/news/title/conservatory-flues


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    #2850
    sooty_soupy
    Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Low level flues in sunrooms and conservatories have been problematic for may years as the chimneys terminate in the positive pressure zone of homes, which in layman terms means blowdowns or down draughts are a real issue. Creating enough height in the flue is very difficult to prevent smoke from affecting other parts of the home, and also ventilation which is critical for stoves greater than 5KW can be a nuisance in rooms that are often very glass heavy, and can be hard to heat at the best of times.

    Options to consider are stoves that the manufacturer is happy enough to run on lower height flues, if it is possible, ensure the stove can have its own independent air supply connected directly to the stove rather than needing to ventilate the room, and it would also be an idea if the flue is going to be low to elect for a clean burn stove that has been defra approved to burn wood in smoke controlled areas as they are less likely to produce excessive smoke. The Clearview range of stoves made in Shropshire tick all these boxes if it helps. As an alternative, something like a bio-ethanol fire or stove is a very good option as you don't need a flue for these and they are a real flame i the home. We have a product called Naked Flame fires and also modern alliances called John Taylor Bio Ethanol Stoves which are ideal for when a flue is going to be an issue.

    Hope this helps.


    gofasterdad wrote: »
    I want to install a free standing stove in an extension at the back of the house.

    Ideally, I would like the flue to come out the back of the stove, through the external wall, and then angle upwards (45 degrees) towards the main body of the house in order to get the required height.

    One stove shop has told me that this should be no problem, but a second stove shop has said that it cannot be done, as the section of flue at 45 degrees can only be a maximum of 1 metre long.

    I have attached a side elevation which should give an indication of what I am trying to do.

    Has anybody done anything similar before, or can you offer some suggestions / guidance as I don't know where to go from here.


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    #2851
    LadyLyons
    Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭LadyLyons


    Who can you complain to about a faulty stove and damage from installation of a stove when the person you bought from won't take your calls? Thank


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