The Defender thread

101sean · 25-10-2014 8:19pm

The 200tdi was a revelation after years of noisy underpowered diesels, up to that point if you needed power the only option was the V8 petrol and only utilities and the military could afford the fuel!!

Call in to your local DOE place and check, may be fine but with everything computerised these days you may have to get it changed.

O.A.P · 26-10-2014 6:35pm

Icyseanfitz wrote: »

got my 110 back shes running beautifully after a full engine swap, power steering, radio+speakers and a few other little bits and bobs.

im still not sure whether the fuel gauge is working though, was near the red 2 days ago so i put 20 diesel into her and she moved up a small bit to just over 1/4, and since hasnt really moved down is the tank massive in a defender so that 20 would do little on the gauge? should still have moved down with a little bit of use right

have to get her doed and taxed now, will i have big issues with doe because of the engine change?

Wellware hope its lucky for you now.
As Sean said keep her with plenty of diesel in the tank. I am getting 33 mpg at the moment and I can hardly believe it . (54 miles each day 0f bad b roads where 60 mph is not on) I am used of 28 mpg unless I bring her up to 70,80 or even 90 mph , that can bring it down to 24 mpg and cause deafness.

Icyseanfitz · 26-10-2014 6:58pm

Yeah i dont tend to go over 50/60 with her so im probably getting decent mpg, shes still running on the 20 from thursday anyway, will it do bad damage if she runs out? Im trying to see if my gauge will go down or if il just run out.

fecking radio aint working

constantly losing power for some reason, just constant on/off, twill be going back to get fixed as i payed a fair bit for it

101sean · 26-10-2014 8:30pm

Won't do damage if it runs out, just don't do it regularly! The system should clear any air without bleeding unlike earlier diesels.

80s Child · 09-11-2014 2:55pm

http://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/1988-landrover-90-turbo/8049655

Just looking for opinions folks.

I want one for my daily driver. It won't be doing any big 4x4ing for a while anyway, but I've always wanted one and this may be exactly what I'm looking for.

101sean · 09-11-2014 5:44pm

It's a Turbo D with the old 19J engine, probably on it's last legs at that mileage which could be why it's priced so low.

It does look clean and straight but it is very suspiciously cheap.

daingeanrob · 09-11-2014 9:02pm

hi guys, another newbie question. I want to change the fluids in my defender td5, where do ye all get yours and what exactly do ye recommend, I want to replace:
1 coolant. manual says 13litres glycol based with "oat???"
2 Gearbox oil 2.38 litres of Texaco mtf 94
3 transfer box 2.3litres of Texaco multigear 75w/90r API GL5

the previous owner, a mate of mine "moffett" on this thread has replaced the diff oil and engine oil recently and said it came out like brown water, previous to moffett I don't think the van was shown much love, I want to start from where I know I know things are good.

I am still on the lookout for a defender stereo if anyone has one from a truck that is for breaking give us a shout.

thanks for the help

80s Child · 10-11-2014 12:07am

101sean wrote: »

It's a Turbo D with the old 19J engine, probably on it's last legs at that mileage which could be why it's priced so low.

It does look clean and straight but it is very suspiciously cheap.

I hear ya, too good to be true and all that.

101sean · 10-11-2014 12:25am

If it's near where you are it could be worth a look, they may have no idea of what they are worth. If chassis and bulkhead were sound and it drives ok it could be a good starter if you wanted something to improve.

daingeanrob · 12-11-2014 11:37am

hi guys, new day, new minor issue, my td5 when I bought it had no interior bulb in the cabin so I checked with a meter and noticed I get 12v with it switched on. I put a bulb in and it works in the on position but woun't come on when left in the central position (between on/off) which I assume would be for the doors. however, when I open either door it never comes on? I don't see any door switches either to activate it, do some defenders not have this feature?

101sean · 12-11-2014 11:24pm

Utility or third world spec ones often don't have door switches.

ghostmountain · 18-11-2014 5:40pm

so i went and bought the defender that was offered to me, and went on the hunt for parts.
got most of what i wanted for her at a local breakers and got it on the road last week. only problem im finding is the drive comfort. should i be looking at changing the springs? or is this just the way the defenders are? its only being used as secondary transport for myself, and herself can use the car without it getting covered in ****e, but im finding it fairly rough. any tips

101sean · 18-11-2014 8:08pm

Moved your latest post to here, may get more answers.

Is it a 90 or 110 you have and how does it sit, has the suspension been messed with at all?

ghostmountain · 19-11-2014 9:16pm

101sean wrote: »

Moved your latest post to here, may get more answers.

Is it a 90 or 110 you have and how does it sit, has the suspension been messed with at all?

110, and i dont think it has.

101sean · 19-11-2014 11:28pm

On standard suspension it shouldn't be rough although it could have heavy duty suspension. Is it just a hard ride or is handling iffy with clonks and knocks?

If you want to keep it standard, original springs and shocks are fine, the old ones do get tired. Replacing all the suspension bushes can make a big difference but it's hard work.

You can fit aftermarket springs but these often give a lift as well, I have Bearmach blues on mine which gave a 40mm lift and the rears are quite hard which I may replace with something softer.

101sean · 19-11-2014 11:36pm

1 coolant. manual says 13litres glycol based with "oat???"
2 Gearbox oil 2.38 litres of Texaco mtf 94
3 transfer box 2.3litres of Texaco multigear 75w/90r API GL5

Rob, I thought I'd posted a reply to this but it seems not!

1 It takes expensive long life pink OAT coolant, doesn't mix with the cheaper blue/green glycol.

2 MTF94 can be hard to find, probably easiest to order from one of the parts places when you're buying filters or parts. It's also expensive. Earlier boxes used ATF but the MTF gives a better gearchange.

3 75W90 is correct.

MOB993 · 23-11-2014 3:52pm

Hi folks, I want to know what weight of trailer I am entitled to tow behind my 110 on a B licence. I've read the information on the rsa site and it seems to say that i can only tow a 750kg trailer. Another site gave examples and said that Passat could tow (almost)1500kg yet a Land cruiser could only tow 750kg due to 3500kg minus the weight of the vehicle or something.
My 110 weighs 1800kg so can some one please explain what i can tow?

Cheers

Moffett · 23-11-2014 6:10pm

the previous owner, a mate of mine "moffett" on this thread has replaced the diff oil and engine oil recently and said it came out like brown water, previous to moffett I don't think the van was shown much love, I want to start from where I know I know things are good.

The diff oil did not have the consistency of water!!...just was a brown rusty colour, but I assure you all it was oil. I have read others have seen similar. I only changed the diff oil as I broke a shaft in the diff and had to take all out. I replaced all the seals, shafts and drive flanges. The oil was supplied by Crozier along with most of the parts. It never used any engine oil and it was also spec'd/supplied by Crozier when I serviced it myself. The truck is a TD5EU poverty spec. Engine oil was replaced every 5k. Coolant was never flushed by myself, but garage said it was fine at first service ( he can test this ). The swivel oil was replaced with one shot grease etc. The truck is like CIE. Lots done but more to do. That said I miss it greatly, I drove it daily for 2 years. I am looking for a 110TD5 CSW if anyone knows of one at circa 12k. Prices are still crazy on donedeal, but 12k is realistic. My advice tot he lad with the harsh suspension would be, see if you can get a spin in a similar one? It's hard to know without anything to compare yours with.

101sean · 23-11-2014 6:19pm

You can tow any trailer up to 750kg on your car licence if the tow vehicle is rated for it (why some small cars can't legally be fitted with towbars)

You can also tow a bigger trailer provided the combination of tow vehicle and trailer doesn't exceed 3500kg, it comes within the maximum authorised mass (MAM) of the vehicle and the trailer doesn't exceed the weight of the towing vehicle.

If your Defender weighs 1800kg you can tow a 1700kg trailer, as the 3500kg limit on your licence is a lot less than the MAM of a Defender and it also weighs less than the Defender. BUT the trailer must only have a MAM of 1700kg, if you hang a tri axle Ifor Williams off the back with only a couple of bales on it you are breaking the law as the trailer has a MAM of 3500kg

Anything more any you need a trailer licence. Defenders can tow 3500kg (4000kg if trailer is power braked but I've never seen one)

A few lads I know haven't bothered with the BE licence and have gone for a C1E

Kieron854 · 11-12-2014 11:55pm

Rear seat for a series 3 109
What's the best options for carrying kids the forward facing ones from exmore are to much money side facing with lapbelts is what I'm thinking of but is there a rear facing option like disco jump seats up against the bullhead .Its a 1974 so leagly I'm OK either way but any thoughts welcome

Edgey75 · 12-12-2014 10:16am

Kieron854 wrote: »

Rear seat for a series 3 109
What's the best options for carrying kids the forward facing ones from exmore are to much money side facing with lapbelts is what I'm thinking of but is there a rear facing option like disco jump seats up against the bullhead .Its a 1974 so leagly I'm OK either way but any thoughts welcome

i have side facing seats in the back of mine but no lap belts fitted, imho side facing seats and lap belts can do as much damage or more in a accident as without one the only difference being the person wont be thrown about the interior. if i ever fit any belts to my bench seats i would fit full harnesses of the racing type rather than fit lap belts. i did think about fitting rear facing seats against the bulkhead but you would probably have to modify something exsisting to fit.

SafeSurfer · 13-12-2014 10:49am

Hi all. I have replaced the freestyle alloys and front seats in my defender 110 and now someone wants to buy them but I have no idea what to ask for them. Any ideas what a fair price would be for 5 freestyle alloys in perfect condition and 2 front seats in fairly good condition, no rips or tears?

Yawlboy · 13-12-2014 1:29pm

SafeSurfer wrote: »

Hi all. I have replaced the freestyle alloys and front seats in my defender 110 and now someone wants to buy them but I have no idea what to ask for them. Any ideas what a fair price would be for 5 freestyle alloys in perfect condition and 2 front seats in fairly good condition, no rips or tears?

PM Sent

O.A.P · 29-12-2014 6:26pm

I'm about to buy a new rad on line for my TD5 , the prices vary from approx.
100 delivered [britpart] - 260 delivered [genuine]
I think Ill save myself 160 euro and get the cheap one or is there a good reason not to ?
Thanks for any advice and Happy new year.

101sean · 29-12-2014 11:41pm

I got mine from Paddocks and it was a Bearmach one, fitted fine. Change the thermostat while the rad is out as it's really accessible then, obviously clean the intercooler while you're at it. Have a set of small long nosed mole grips handy for the spring hose clips if you haven't the proper tool.

Don't buy Britpart hoses as they don't fit well (there's a surprise!) and make sure you clip all the hoses back inplace properly or the crankshaft pulley will wear through the bottom hose

O.A.P · 30-12-2014 2:18pm

Thanks for that and the tip about the thermostat, I hadn't intended to replace it but I may as well when I'm that far in.

101sean · 30-12-2014 9:07pm

It's a in-line plastic yoke with two branches, bit of bugger to get to otherwise.

O.A.P · 30-12-2014 9:48pm

101sean wrote: »

It's a in-line plastic yoke with two branches, bit of bugger to get to otherwise.

I know replaced it 5 years ago, alien heart kind of yoke .
165 delivered for both from Paddocks , should cost me another 35 for coolant I suppose.
Back to work Monday hope to God its not a case of parts arrive but either work at night or take time off.

sparkman · 01-01-2015 2:19pm

Hi-the propshaft on my td5 110 broke away from the rear UJ last week. I could hear/feel it loosening for a few mins driving but luckily she only came off outside my own house! Is there any chance this could be a diy fix (complete novice) or should I hand it to the mechanic again. Already spent 600 on replacing rear brake calipers so still a bit sore over that...any advice welcome!

sparkman · 01-01-2015 2:20pm

Hi-the propshaft on my td5 110 broke away from the rear UJ last week. I could hear/feel it loosening for a few mins driving but luckily she only came off outside my own house! Is there any chance this could be a diy fix (complete novice) or should I hand it to the mechanic again. Already spent 600 on replacing rear brake calipers so still a bit sore over that...any advice welcome!

O.A.P · 01-01-2015 3:14pm

That's a lot of money for two calipers plus labour, main dealer ?
That should be a DIY job depending on what is damaged and the man. At a minimum new prop shaft and two u joints, hopefully the prop splaying around has not done lots of other damage underneath or broken the diff.

sparkman · 01-01-2015 4:45pm

O.A.P wrote: »

That's a lot of money for two calipers plus labour, main dealer ?
That should be a DIY job depending on what is damaged and the man. At a minimum new prop shaft and two u joints, hopefully the prop splaying around has not done lots of other damage underneath or broken the diff.

Ya I thought 600 was a lot, not a main dealer, included new pads aswell. Knowing me, I'll chicken out on the diy fix but dreading the bill. Ah well...tks for the reply anyway...I might just try and source the shaft and 2 ujs to try and save a few bob...

sparkman · 01-01-2015 4:46pm

O.A.P wrote: »

That's a lot of money for two calipers plus labour, main dealer ?
That should be a DIY job depending on what is damaged and the man. At a minimum new prop shaft and two u joints, hopefully the prop splaying around has not done lots of other damage underneath or broken the diff.

Ya I thought 600 was a lot, not a main dealer, included new pads aswell. Knowing me, I'll chicken out on the diy fix but dreading the bill. Ah well...tks for the reply anyway...I might just try and source the shaft and 2 ujs to try and save a few bob...

MedusaV8 · 01-01-2015 4:50pm

sparkman wrote: »

Ya I thought 600 was a lot, not a main dealer, included new pads aswell. Knowing me, I'll chicken out on the diy fix but dreading the bill. Ah well...tks for the reply anyway...I might just try and source the shaft and 2 ujs to try and save a few bob...

Get the parts from Paddocks in the UK. We bought just a single UJ from Mayo Motorspares for €50 in an emergency. Bought some additional spares from Paddocks for £12 each. The new UJ were GKN not Britpart.

101sean · 01-01-2015 6:01pm

Did the UJ break up or was it just loose bolts?

If the UJ broke up, the yokes may be too badly damaged to repair. A whole new propshaft isn't that expensive from Paddocks (it will be GKN), replaced mine not long ago as the splines were shot. Remember to order replacement nyloc nuts for the propshaft bolts as well, they are UNF, not Metric. Buy a propshaft nut removal tool while you are at it, makes life a lot easier.
http://www.paddockspares.com/da1119-propshaft-bolt-removal-tool-usually-14-50gbp.html

sparkman · 01-01-2015 8:04pm

UJ and propshaft 'look' ok but a CVRT tester told me a while back that he saw a bit of play in it. I think it was just about to give while I was driving but didn't come apart till I was literally outside my own door. Can't see any obvious other damage underneath. Pic attached...

101sean · 01-01-2015 9:11pm

Are the cups still in the yoke lying on the ground (One has to be gone for it to fall apart)? If they are missing, where they sit in the yoke may have been damaged by the spider thrashing around.

If there's any damage to the yoke or play in the sliding joint splines, change the whole thing.

sparkman · 01-01-2015 9:19pm

Tks a million. I found one of the cups on the ground. I'll have a proper look in daylight for damage but at this stage I might just be safer to replace the whole thing just so I can relax

sparkman · 01-01-2015 9:20pm

Tks a million. I found one of the cups on the ground. I'll have a proper look in daylight for damage but at this stage I might just be safer to replace the whole thing just so I can relax

foxy farmer · 07-01-2015 1:46pm

Quick question for anyone with TD5 engine. Is it normal to have slow throttle response after starting the engine. Whe i start mine either when hot or cold if i floor the pedal it runs at medium revs but after a few secs it will suddenly pick up and run flat out. Taking off with a trailer usually conks it. Diesel filter changed about a month ago. I have noticed this with a few months back.

banjolin · 07-01-2015 2:01pm

I don't think its that unusual. Mine does it now and then and I used to think "turbo lag" but that couldn't really be the case at those low speeds. The throttle is fly by wire and the ECU may be doing something. You should be able to take your foot off the clutch with no accelerator without stalling, with or without a trailer. I did it with three tonnes on the back a few weeks ago and not a bother. It is a built in anti-stall feature. Don't drop it, just ease it off as you would normally. If it doesn't work there may be an issue.

Changing the fuel filter is no guarantee that there is no sludge still in the tank and at low fuel levels it can be slow to pick up if there is some gunk floating around. That would be my guess if everything else is working as it should.

No expert but that's my experience. Its amazing how many things you can learn to live with.

sparkman · 07-01-2015 3:43pm

My 02 td5 does exactly the same. I also notice if she's parked on a slight incline for a while, engine higher than rear, she'll cut out if I try to go forwards unless I wait the few seconds till I can get her to rev up a bit. I just live with it

sparkman · 07-01-2015 3:44pm

My 02 td5 does exactly the same. I also notice if she's parked on a slight incline for a while, engine higher than rear, she'll cut out if I try to go forwards unless I wait the few seconds till I can get her to rev up a bit. I just live with it

sparkman · 07-01-2015 3:44pm

My 02 td5 does exactly the same. I also notice if she's parked on a slight incline for a while, engine higher than rear, she'll cut out if I try to go forwards unless I wait the few seconds till I can get her to rev up a bit. I just live with it

foxy farmer · 07-01-2015 4:31pm

Right probably me being a bit particular about something normal. Just avoid gone in 60 sec wheel spinnning take offs. Don't have a heavy right foot, maybe just taking off a bit too fast. Just giving her the once over as DOE is out since before the holidays. Hand brake needs tightening as its coming up too far. 5-6 clicks before its gripping.

101sean · 07-01-2015 6:45pm

It shouldn't do it at all, could be the sign of the pump starting to fail. Also check you don't have a diesel leak above the starter, that would be the FPR on it's way (they all do it around 90k)

The ECU has two maps and anti-stall, when in low range the throttle response is slower. You can check if that works by holding the throttle at about 1500 revs and changing from high to low, the engine note will change.

The anti-stall will pull a fully laden trailer in low range without touching the throttle, just let the clutch out, handy for getting out of a slippery field without spinning the wheels. I've driven an ABS/ETC fitted 90 around an off road course without touching the throttle or brakes, was positively boring though!

Once you're moving though the TD5 likes mucho revs, clutch and DMF will last longer if you don't pussy foot around.

101sean · 07-01-2015 8:38pm

A couple of other things could cause the slow response -

Oil in the injector loom, check the ecu red plug for oil

A dodgy lot of fuel causing diesel bug slime in the filter on the bottom of the pump.

Adjust the handbrake at the drum first (17mm spanner) before doing anything to the cable.

foxy farmer · 07-01-2015 9:08pm

Let me see now
Engine runs and pulls fine when running just those few seconds after starting if i go to pull away its likely she'll conk before clutch is up full. The fuel regulator was done within the last 18 months and seems dry. Fuel pump does whine on occasion if level goes low. ECU plug has very minute trace of oil but nothing untoward. Have been using my own tank for diesel. Plastic one indoors with 5yrs bought new. 72k on clock now.

101sean · 07-01-2015 10:17pm

She's low miles.

I'd change the injector loom next service, cheap and quick to do, and flush the oil out of the plug with brake cleaner. Probably not causing the problem but it's worth sorting.

I'd be inclined to think fuel pump, you could get it tested (involves putting a pressure tester on the FPR and seeing if you get 4 bar) but I'd live with it for now and see if it gets any worse.

You're supposed to drop the tank to get at the pump but it's easier cut a hole in the floor to access it and plate it after. Do a google search and you'll find a sketch of where to make the cuts.

roman0red · 13-01-2015 11:07pm

Hi Sean

Looking for some advice on changing a frt wiper assembly on my 03 TD5. Drivers side wiper is slipping on the wiper cable that extends from the wiper motor.
I've checked a few forums and it looks like a very messy job - just wonder if you have undertaken this in the past and had any tips?

Thanks
Eamon

The Defender thread

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