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First Time Buyer

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    #32
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    leaf spring either broken or weak.


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    #33
    snailsong
    Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭snailsong


    Thanks for the advice, Aidan.

    I thought the same but the leaf springs look ok. How would I know if it was weak? Both springs are sitting flat or slightly above (smiling not frowning) and the clearance at the rubber stoppers is about equal, 100mm or so, both sides. There are coil springs (spring assistors?) between the chassis and axel and one of those is broken. However the broken one is on the high side, near the end of the spring and seems no more than 10mm shorter than the other. Any idea where I'd get one of those?

    Could the problem be at the front of the van? The clearance at the wheel arch seems bigger at one side though the coil springs don't appear to be broken.

    I need to do more investigation when weather and daylight allow. If anyone wants to give me diagnostic tips I'd be thankful.

    The van is driving pretty well and handling is not bad since it rarely exceeds 80kph.

    Apologies, rideronthestorm for hijacking your thread.


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    #34
    dickwod1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,101 ✭✭✭dickwod1


    Looks great, best of luck :)

    (Second cousin of my Talbot Express!)


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    #35
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    Rubber on the top shock mount might have failed so the top of the shock is sticking up. They're only about 17 euro spurious. worth changing the strut bearing and seal at the same time if they're not perfect. My friends one failed dismounting a kerb mine failed on the way to doe when I hit a pothole in a flood. Both vans were down on one side.


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    #36
    snailsong
    Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭snailsong


    Thanks, that seems a contender. Do you access the shock top from inside the cab by removing the trim over the wheel arch etc.?


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    #37
    RiderOnTheStorm
    Registered Users Posts: 2,099 ✭✭✭RiderOnTheStorm


    thx for all the nice posts folks .....

    the CV has passed the DOE and we are picking it up tomorrow ..... yeah !!!


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    #38
    RiderOnTheStorm
    Registered Users Posts: 2,099 ✭✭✭RiderOnTheStorm


    ok, did a few small jobs to the camper

    sta43505.jpg

    Biggest one was to put down a laminate wood floor. There were a couple of soft spots (one just inside the door, and another infront of the sink. I reckon they were high traffic areas. The laminate will give a lot of support / strength.

    We also replaced the old worktop on top of the hob / sink and replaced it with new wood one to match the floor.

    Next job is to replace the shower hose. There is selotape on it .... not a good sign! .... and it doesnt reach from the sink to the shower-head-holder on the wall. I have a new kink-resistant hose and new head ..... hope it goes through the hole in the sink or it will be a very short DIY job!


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    #39
    snailsong
    Registered Users Posts: 1,140 ✭✭✭snailsong


    nice job, bro'.


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    #40
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    snailsong wrote: »
    Thanks, that seems a contender. Do you access the shock top from inside the cab by removing the trim over the wheel arch etc.?
    Yup.


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    #41
    munsterabu
    Registered Users Posts: 38 ✭munsterabu


    RiderOnTheStorm wrote: »
    ok, did a few small jobs to the camper

    sta43505.jpg

    Biggest one was to put down a laminate wood floor. There were a couple of soft spots (one just inside the door, and another infront of the sink. I reckon they were high traffic areas. The laminate will give a lot of support / strength.

    We also replaced the old worktop on top of the hob / sink and replaced it with new wood one to match the floor.

    Next job is to replace the shower hose. There is selotape on it .... not a good sign! .... and it doesnt reach from the sink to the shower-head-holder on the wall. I have a new kink-resistant hose and new head ..... hope it goes through the hole in the sink or it will be a very short DIY job!

    Hello Rider,
    Van looks good,I have an A -Class Dethleffs version of this base model plenty of power if needed ,LHD good for small roads which a lot of beach roads in ireland are, gear change and general manouverability v.good,as a first timer i made the mistake of running the leisure battery low on a few occasions which does reduce the max output each time it,s recharged and will eventually fail..i keep mine topped up when idle..see ya around and enjoy you,re future holidays let's hope this summer is at least warm and a bit dry..


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    #42
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    munsterabu wrote: »
    recharged and will eventually fail..i keep mine topped up when idle..

    It's not advised to leave them plugged in constantly.


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    #43
    munsterabu
    Registered Users Posts: 38 ✭munsterabu


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    It's not advised to leave them plugged in constantly.
    Thanks for the concern is this a safety practice or for another reason ? the documentation that was enclosed with battery states otherwise?


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    #44
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    munsterabu wrote: »
    Thanks for the concern is this a safety practice or for another reason ? the documentation that was enclosed with battery states otherwise?

    It would be the case with an intelligent charger, but I've never seen one in an MH that was truly "intelligent". A good battery wouldn't need that anyway. I put a proper good quality one in a car last year, and it still showed 12.5 volts after a year of standing without driving or charging.


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    #45
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    It would be the case with an intelligent charger, but I've never seen one in an MH that was truly "intelligent". A good battery wouldn't need that anyway. I put a proper good quality one in a car last year, and it still showed 12.5 volts after a year of standing without driving or charging.

    Thats a good battery! Also must be an old car as all modern cars have a standby current of a few to tens of milliamps for various things, keep alive memory in the bsi, ecu, radio, keyless entry unit, alarm etc.


    In terms of starter battery if you measure the standby current with a multimeter you can estimate how long between recharges.

    5mA x 24 hours = 3.6Ah per month

    Cars with aftermarket stereo, alarm etc could easily be 30mA -80mA

    Standard flooded starter battery will have a self discharge too of 5% a month for a good battery to 20% for an old battery.

    So with a decent 110Ah starter battery at 5mA standaby you're talking about losing 9Ah per month. Should still start no problem after 6 months idle.

    A decent leisure battery agm, gel only loses are 1-2% per month. So after 6 months you'd still have over 80% charge. Usually people with problems have left their distribution panel tuned on or the batteries are shot.

    As for leaving plugged in 24/7 our friend plugged in a caravan with an automatic charger and went to bed woke up at 4am with caravan on fire then the house caught and 4 firetrucks failed to put it out the house is a writeoff.


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    #46
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Yes, it is a good battery, I never feck around with bad ones. It's in a 1999 Ford Ka.


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