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99 BMW 318 Key disaster

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  • 28-04-2014 7:44pm
    #1
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭


    Hi all, accidentally and really stupidly ran a lawnmower over my car keys this evening. Pic attached. I can't get into my car now as the central locking is ****ed obviously due to the microchip been broken, and if I put the key in manually it won't work either. I think this is due to small gashes on the key (possibly hard to see on the pic). What's the next step? I know a place in stephens green quoted me €50 before or something like that, but he was asking if I had an immobiliser and I wasn't sure if I did.


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    #2
    Supergurrier
    Registered Users Posts: 7,289 ✭✭✭Supergurrier


    Forget the key.

    Your Tesco membership card, noooooooo :(


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    #3
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Supergurrier wrote: »
    Forget the key.

    Your Tesco membership card, noooooooo :(

    Ha ha I know, irreplaceable!


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    #4
    Gosub
    Closed Accounts Posts: 874 ✭✭✭Gosub


    Any nicks on the key won't be a problem unless they are stopping the key entering the keyway. The groove on the key is what does all the work.

    If the key won't go in to the keyway, use a file to smooth off any spikes on the key. You should be able to use the key manually. IIRC the transponder is passive and unless the chip has been physically destroyed, it should still be recognised by the car. Open to correction on this though.

    Good luck.


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    #5
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Gosub wrote: »
    Any nicks on the key won't be a problem unless they are stopping the key entering the keyway. The groove on the key is what does all the work.

    If the key won't go in to the keyway, use a file to smooth off any spikes on the key. You should be able to use the key manually. IIRC the transponder is passive and unless the chip has been physically destroyed, it should still be recognised by the car. Open to correction on this though.

    Good luck.

    The key goes in actually manually on the drivers side, and turns to the left but nothing happens. Would this be because of an immobilizer?


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    #6
    Gosub
    Closed Accounts Posts: 874 ✭✭✭Gosub


    niallo24 wrote: »
    The key goes in actually manually on the drivers side, and turns to the left but nothing happens. Would this be because of an immobilizer?
    No, the immobiliser only stops the engine starting. Does the key open any other lock. Boot maybe? It's odd that it turns the lock barrel but won't unlock it.


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    #7
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Gosub wrote: »
    No, the immobiliser only stops the engine starting. Does the key open any other lock. Boot maybe? It's odd that it turns the lock barrel but won't unlock it.

    Actually apologies the key is now getting me into the car, but setting the alarm off every time. The engine won't start though...which I presume is the immobiliser? What's the next step, I need a replacement fob to bypass that?


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    #8
    McCrack
    Registered Users Posts: 2,968 ✭✭✭McCrack


    Did you try turning the key the other way?


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    #9
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    Is the battery still attached to the board. I'd say that might still work. You can buy the cases on ebay for a few quid and use the inside bits inc the blade from your old one. Is it an E36 or E46.


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    #10
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    Is the battery still attached to the board. I'd say that might still work. You can buy the cases on ebay for a few quid and use the inside bits inc the blade from your old one. Is it an E36 or E46.

    Sorry not that technically savvy when it comes to cars! Do you mean the main car battery? Yeah thats still working, whenever I open the car door the battery goes off and I can't start the engine. I presume the engine not starting is because of the immobilizer though?


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    #11
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Sorry not that technically savvy when it comes to cars! Do you mean the main car battery? Yeah thats still working, whenever I open the car door the battery goes off and I can't start the engine. I presume the engine not starting is because of the immobilizer though?

    No, there should be a little watch type battery on the circuit board in the key fob.


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    #12
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    No, there should be a little watch type battery on the circuit board in the key fob.

    Oh right sorry! Yeah doesn't look like the battery is attached to the board unfortunately..


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    #13
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Oh right sorry! Yeah doesn't look like the battery is attached to the board unfortunately..

    You can buy the little batteries in any good hardware. Bring the board with you. Once you have it fitted and with you in the car the engine should start. You might even be able to tape it all back together until you get a new case.
    That is unless the board is damaged, in which case you're snookered. A new one from BMW is about €130 last time I checked..


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    #14
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    You can buy the little batteries in any good hardware. Bring the board with you. Once you have it fitted and with you in the car the engine should start. You might even be able to tape it all back together until you get a new case.
    That is unless the board is damaged, in which case you're snookered. A new one from BMW is about €130 last time I checked..

    Cheers yeah, will try the first option but have a feeling the board is fried, although it looks intact. Not really sure where the battery attaches though as there doesn't seem an obvious place.

    So basically even though my key works in both the driver door, and still goes into the ignition its not starting the car because the fob isn't attached?


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    #15
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Cheers yeah, will try the first option but have a feeling the board is fried, although it looks intact. Not really sure where the battery attaches though as there doesn't seem an obvious place.

    So basically even though my key works in both the driver door, and still goes into the ignition its not starting the car because the fob isn't attached?

    It won't start because the immobiliser isn't getting a signal from the fob because there is no power from it. Can you put up a pic of the other side of the board.

    Also, opening the door manually with the key won't turn the alarm or immobiliser off. You need to do that with the button on the key. So we're back to the little battery again.


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    #16
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    It won't start because the immobiliser isn't getting a signal from the fob because there is no power from it. Can you put up a pic of the other side of the board.

    Also, opening the door manually with the key won't turn the alarm or immobiliser off. You need to do that with the button on the key. So we're back to the little battery again.

    Ok gotcha...here's the circuit board front and back. Looks OK to me, would the battery go on the back?


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    #17
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    That long silver piece, the battery slips in under that. It's about he size of a 5c coin and wafer thin. On the other side you can actually see the buttons.


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    #18
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    That long silver piece, the battery slips in under that. It's about he size of a 5c coin and wafer thin. On the other side you can actually see the buttons.

    Great stuff thanks a million, will try and get a battery so and see what happens. You reckon hardware stores do them?


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    #19
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Great stuff thanks a million, will try and get a battery so and see what happens. You reckon hardware stores do them?

    ........... Or maybe a good key cutter/ locksmith. A lot of them cut the blades for car keys these days and so would be familiar with the fobs as well.


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    #20
    TJJP
    Registered Users Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭TJJP


    Looks like a CR2016 battery is what's needed. The shiny side with lettering goes face down (+), the silver tab in the picture connects the other side (-) and holds the battery in place.

    You might need to re programme the key once you have the battery in it. Looks like there's more info here on that - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1040187-Factory-e36-alarm-key-fob-programing

    Theres a few different methods suggested though - http://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26665 and here.. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=54765


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    #21
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    TJJP wrote: »
    Looks like a CR2016 battery is what's needed. The shiny side with lettering goes face down (+), the silver tab in the picture connects the other side (-) and holds the battery in place.

    You might need to re programme the key once you have the battery in it. Looks like there's more info here on that - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1040187-Factory-e36-alarm-key-fob-programing

    Theres a few different methods suggested though - http://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26665 and here.. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=54765

    Thanks for that!


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    #22
    jimgoose
    Registered Users Posts: 20,176 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    Well, as the fella said I don't have a solution, but I admire the problem. Bravo, Sir! :pac:


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    #23
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    So haven't gone the battery route just yet as haven't had a chance to get to hardware shop but rang Autokey on the naas road and they will refurbish the key for 100 euro. Not a bad fall back all things considered and possibly my best bet.


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    #24
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    So haven't gone the battery route just yet as haven't had a chance to get to hardware shop but rang Autokey on the naas road and they will refurbish the key for 100 euro. Not a bad fall back all things considered and possibly my best bet.

    I think that's expensive if they are going to use the guts from your key. The board is the expensive bit. You can buy the rest on ebay for less than a tenner.
    Why dont you ring BMW and see how much is a new one. Is the car an E36 model.

    Here ya go;

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/REPLACEMENT-3-BUTTON-KEY-CASE-FOR-BMW-E36-E38-E39-Z3-3-5-7-SERIES-REMOTE-GROOVED-/320963334208?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item4abae7d040


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    #25
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    I think that's expensive if they are going to use the guts from your key. The board is the expensive bit. You can buy the rest on ebay for less than a tenner.
    Why dont you ring BMW and see how much is a new one. Is the car an E36 model.

    Its an E46...if I have the working circuit board (although there is no way of confirming its working till I get the battery) do I just need the replacement cover for it though? From speaking to a few locksmiths today they were saying a refurbishment would generally mean recutting the key and inserting the old board into a new cover on the new key.


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    #26
    emeldc
    Registered Users Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Its an E46...if I have the working circuit board (although there is no way of confirming its working till I get the battery) do I just need the replacement cover for it though? From speaking to a few locksmiths today they were saying a refurbishment would generally mean recutting the key and inserting the old board into a new cover on the new key.

    If the blade doesn't come out of the old one then yes, you will need to get one cut. But if you think you think about it you're paying €100 for a plastic cover and a keycut. Unless they're supplying you with a new board which I doubt.


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    #27
    jameshayes
    Registered Users Posts: 3,772 ✭✭✭jameshayes


    I think you're over complicating this... just get a battery and see what happens.. be about 5 quid or something


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    #28
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Got a 2016 but it won't work from what I am trying? Which is putting in the area for the battery, it won't fit under the grey bit of metal though so you have to put it over that and it fits perfectly.


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    #29
    TJJP
    Registered Users Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭TJJP


    That's weird, what's written on the key, the CR number seems to be on the plastic, but I can't quite read if from the photo? It might be a smaller battery, a cr2015 but that would be unusual, and annoying!


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    #30
    Dr.Winston O'Boogie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,810 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    TJJP wrote: »
    That's weird, what's written on the key, the CR number seems to be on the plastic, but I can't quite read if from the photo? It might be a smaller battery, a cr2015 but that would be unusual, and annoying!

    Yeah it says 2016 on the plastic so that's definitely the battery required...may be the circuit board is goosed then which is not good news!


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    #31
    TJJP
    Registered Users Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭TJJP


    Should be a tight fit, but it only goes one way so you must have it right with the tab underneath. Have a look at this, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwZs9yzzYpg, from this video it goes shiny side up.


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