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Never cleaned car in 2 years, next steps?

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    #2
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Yeah, you've done a good job on your research in the process to follow! ;)

    I'd suggest that if you are doing polishing that whatever polish you choose that you stick to protection from the same manufacturer.
    For example...Chemical Guys Pro Polish, protected with Jetseal109 (sealant and very durable) or Pete's 53 (wax and will look great)
    Autoglym Super Resin Polish, protected with Extra Gloss Protection (sealant, durable) or HD Wax (looks great, very durable for a wax)


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    #3
    mb1725
    Registered Users Posts: 1,381 ✭✭✭mb1725


    Your first step should be a trip to the Church of the Internal Combustion Engine to pray for forgiveness! ... even for a VW


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    #4
    TestTransmission
    Registered Users Posts: 19,106 ✭✭✭✭TestTransmission


    Thread demands pics imo :cool:


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    #5
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    Thank's Curran, lurking here a while and your posts have been the main source of my learning journey.
    All theoretical until test transmission get's his evidence :)

    After choosing polish and sealant, what do I need to apply it and generally how do I apply it?
    Curran wrote: »
    Yeah, you've done a good job on your research in the process to follow! ;)

    I'd suggest that if you are doing polishing that whatever polish you choose that you stick to protection from the same manufacturer.
    For example...Chemical Guys Pro Polish, protected with Jetseal109 (sealant and very durable) or Pete's 53 (wax and will look great)
    Autoglym Super Resin Polish, protected with Extra Gloss Protection (sealant, durable) or HD Wax (looks great, very durable for a wax)


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    #6
    Victor Meldrew
    Registered Users Posts: 768 ✭✭✭Victor Meldrew


    TestTransmission wrote: »
    Thread demands pics imo :cool:

    Actually quite interesting topic. The mother has a slate grey Mk5 golf. Needles to say, it gets washed when it gets serviced or pranged , which means it's been washed 4 times in the past 6 years. (my OCD about cars came from my father...)

    I would wonder what the long term effects of this "Care Regime" would have on the paintwork, versus putting it through the auto wash, versus washing it weekly by hand, as God and the internet demands.

    There does not appear to be any rust on her car, and I'm screwed if I'm going to clean, clay and polish it it for her.


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    #7
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Well aside from the fact that the car is probably fairly dirty....the paint work should be relatively swirl free if its only been washed 6 times.
    So it wouldnt really need a polish - a good wash, de-tar, clay and protection would bring it up very well.


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    #8
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    MAJJ wrote: »
    After choosing polish and sealant, what do I need to apply it and generally how do I apply it?

    Both polish and sealant, would be a matter applying with an applicator and buffing off with a plush microfibre cloth. A different applicator and cloth for each product!


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    #9
    myshirt
    Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Not to hijack this thread...

    But car not washed in that long...

    Would he not lightly rinse, then spray on degreaser like http://buychemicals.ie/products/citrus-fresh-citrus-cleaner-and-degreaser

    Let it dwell.

    Rinse

    Then snow foam and wash 2BM as per usual


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    #10
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    MAJJ wrote: »
    Snowfoam and rinse gently with powerwasher or hose
    http://www.detailingshed.com/shampoo-snowfoam/27-cotton-candy-snowfoam.html

    Wash again with what product to get everything off to start from scratch?

    This is the last bit I am unsure of, I assume to use 2BM but am not sure what product to clean with after I snowfoam?

    Thanks


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    #11
    myshirt
    Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Majj, there are some experienced guys here who are great to help..

    Essentially by way of overview you are looking at

    1. Rinsing the car gently
    2. Spraying some degreaser on heavily soiled areas, or putting it through your foam lance. Get that off quick then.
    3. Snow foam the car with some snow foam solution. Let it dwell, and while it is dwelling do the wheels, door jambs, badges etc.
    4. Rinse it off
    5. Wash 2BM from top down.
    6. Rinse

    You then move on to some tar remover.
    Spray on, give it no more than a minute, wipe off, rinse panel.

    Move on to some OAC iron Cleanse.
    Rinse rinse rinse.

    Clay the car using plennnnnty of lube.
    Rinse rinse rinse


    Dry the car


    You can then polish, glaze (optional), seal up, and wax (either of sealing or waxing, your choice)

    And importantly, don't do any of this on hot panels or in sunlight.


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    #12
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    myshirt has essentially got it right there!
    And the car can be washed down with an All Purpose Cleaner in this instance to help with cleaning!

    When using tar remover, ideally you want NOT to touch the car, so no wiping...tar contains grit, which will result in scratching. The better tar removers can be sprayed on, rinsed off....it might need to be done 2/3 times, but its best not to result in wiping...not a problem if you are planning to progress to machine polishing / correction.
    Also, the better tar removers can be left on longer than a minute - up to 5, but use your judgement - if doing it in the weather we're having right now, then yes, on panels in direct sunlight, dont do it at all, but if you must, dont leave it too long.


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    #13
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    myshirt wrote: »
    Majj, there are some experienced guys here who are great to help..
    .

    There sure are :)

    Thanks to all for the help and advice.

    Curran - when the site it back up I will do some checking and give you the business, thanks for all your time.


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    #14
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    So Curran has my money and I have his products. Dave is an excellent and sound guy to deal with, even though his site is down you can PM him or email him at detailingshed@yahoo.ie

    At the w/e using my mates snow foam lance used cotton candy and it did a great job of clearing of a lot of crud. Although the weeks downpours also helped.

    1) I am now armed with iron, tar and wheel cleanse. Do each of these need to be applied to a dry surface? As I believe the tar cleanse does?
    2) Do folks use iron/tar cleanse mainly on the alloys and around the lower part of the car?
    3) what order is it best to use the 3 products?

    Thanks


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    #15
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Thanks for the feedback! :)
    MAJJ wrote: »
    1) I am now armed with iron, tar and wheel cleanse. Do each of these need to be applied to a dry surface? As I believe the tar cleanse does?
    2) Do folks use iron/tar cleanse mainly on the alloys and around the lower part of the car?
    3) what order is it best to use the 3 products?

    1) No the surface doesnt have to be dry, but they work best on drier surfaces as they will dwell for longer - let surfaces drip dry for about 2 mintues, and then you can fire ahead!

    2) Iron Cleanse on the whole car. Spray it and allow dwell, rinse off. You could spread the product with a MF cloth or MF applicator to get better coverage. Tar Cleanse is generally only needed on the lower half of the car, but I've done cars with tar on the roof, but they'd be only small spots.

    3) Wheels - Wheel Cleanse to get the heavy dirt off, Tar Cleanse, Iron Cleanse.
    Bodywork - Tar Cleanse, Iron Cleanse....but it doesnt really matter as Iron Cleanse has a bit of ability to help break down tar. So sometimes I'd go Iron Cleanse (lower half), rinse, Tar Cleanse, rinse (repeat if necessary) and then an all over hit with Iron Cleasnse....might be the way to go considering its never been done! Tar Cleanse and then Iron Cleanse will give great results anyways!


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    #16
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    Last night Snow foamed and did a number if iterations of cleanse and used 3/4 bottle of iron cleanse (1 to 1) and most of the tar cleanse and a few goes of wheel cleanse.

    Alloys look much better and in general car is much cleaner. Also used autoglym shampoo.

    However I still have a lot of bugs/contaminants on the front and some tar spots remain.

    Am in claying territory yet?

    Thanks

    Curran wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback! :)



    1) No the surface doesnt have to be dry, but they work best on drier surfaces as they will dwell for longer - let surfaces drip dry for about 2 mintues, and then you can fire ahead!

    2) Iron Cleanse on the whole car. Spray it and allow dwell, rinse off. You could spread the product with a MF cloth or MF applicator to get better coverage. Tar Cleanse is generally only needed on the lower half of the car, but I've done cars with tar on the roof, but they'd be only small spots.

    3) Wheels - Wheel Cleanse to get the heavy dirt off, Tar Cleanse, Iron Cleanse.
    Bodywork - Tar Cleanse, Iron Cleanse....but it doesnt really matter as Iron Cleanse has a bit of ability to help break down tar. So sometimes I'd go Iron Cleanse (lower half), rinse, Tar Cleanse, rinse (repeat if necessary) and then an all over hit with Iron Cleasnse....might be the way to go considering its never been done! Tar Cleanse and then Iron Cleanse will give great results anyways!


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    #17
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    MAJJ wrote: »
    Am in claying territory yet?

    You are, to a certain degree!

    If you have given the car a hit with Tar Cleanse, then what remains should be relatively minor, or at very least soft.
    You could go ahead and clay the car, but those tar spots that remain, will result in the clay getting destroyed. So its a catch 22. More tar remover or ruin a clay bar. Also, as tar contains a certain amount of grit, you run the risk of rubbing that into the paint, which, if you were planning on machine polishing the car, may not be a huge issue as it will be resolved fairly easily with the first pass!
    Claying will pick up a certain amount of tar anways, and it will/should remove the bugs.


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    #18
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    More tar cleanse it is then, thanks
    Curran wrote: »
    You are, to a certain degree!

    If you have given the car a hit with Tar Cleanse, then what remains should be relatively minor, or at very least soft.
    You could go ahead and clay the car, but those tar spots that remain, will result in the clay getting destroyed. So its a catch 22. More tar remover or ruin a clay bar. Also, as tar contains a certain amount of grit, you run the risk of rubbing that into the paint, which, if you were planning on machine polishing the car, may not be a huge issue as it will be resolved fairly easily with the first pass!
    Claying will pick up a certain amount of tar anways, and it will/should remove the bugs.


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    #19
    _Conrad_
    Registered Users Posts: 1,191 ✭✭✭_Conrad_


    MAJJ wrote: »
    Never cleaned car in 2 years.

    Firstly, that's horrific. Second, do what he said
    myshirt wrote: »
    Majj, there are some experienced guys here who are great to help..

    Essentially by way of overview you are looking at

    1. Rinsing the car gently
    2. Spraying some degreaser on heavily soiled areas, or putting it through your foam lance. Get that off quick then.
    3. Snow foam the car with some snow foam solution. Let it dwell, and while it is dwelling do the wheels, door jambs, badges etc.
    4. Rinse it off
    5. Wash 2BM from top down.
    6. Rinse

    You then move on to some tar remover.
    Spray on, give it no more than a minute, wipe off, rinse panel.

    Move on to some OAC iron Cleanse.
    Rinse rinse rinse.

    Clay the car using plennnnnty of lube.
    Rinse rinse rinse


    Dry the car


    You can then polish, glaze (optional), seal up, and wax (either of sealing or waxing, your choice)

    And importantly, don't do any of this on hot panels or in sunlight.



    And then think about your house, workplace, body etc and wonder have you let them become that filthy too. :eek:


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    #20
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,370 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    And still no pics.


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    #21
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    And still no pics.

    Quiet you!! :D

    We're waiting for pics of that Corolla! ;)


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    #22
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    You can take your inference and shove it up your waxed ass:(
    _Conrad_ wrote: »
    And then think about your house, workplace, body etc and wonder have you let them become that filthy too. :eek:


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    #23
    _Conrad_
    Registered Users Posts: 1,191 ✭✭✭_Conrad_


    MAJJ wrote: »
    You can take your inference and shove it up...No.... your waxed ass:(..... correction, clean, natural unwaxed ass

    That was a joke based on the supposed filthy state of the car, which after two years must have been mind-bending-ly awful.
    If you find yourself unable to handle that, or are overly sensitive to it, then you may well have issues. Whether they are with cleanliness or general social interaction. I suggest you do not take up getting abusive with people you don't know on the internet due to .

    On the subject of my ass, since you brought it up, It's large quite hairy yet very clean. Enjoy the image :D You were obviously thinking about it anyway. No wax though or penetration. I don't engage in either activity.


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    #24
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Dont usually get involved in key board warrior antics and bit my tounge after you posted the 1st time in this thread. ....but I did think it to be an odd post and that it could easily have been taken the wrong way. Thought you might have been a mate of the OP for a comment as up front and as random as that!

    Anyways...I'll be having nightmares tonight following on from reading the last few lines of your last post! :(:)


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    #25
    IK09
    Registered Users Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭IK09


    so....theres no chance of pics?


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    #26
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    Conrad - one person’s joke can be another’s insult. Words are always open to interpretation and easy to be misunderstood.

    Your own advice back at you "I suggest you do not take up getting abusive with people you don't know on the internet".

    I understand where you were coming from and will steer this thread back to
    it's intended path.

    _Conrad_ wrote: »
    That was a joke based on the supposed filthy state of the car, which after two years must have been mind-bending-ly awful.
    If you find yourself unable to handle that, or are overly sensitive to it, then you may well have issues. Whether they are with cleanliness or general social interaction. I suggest you do not take up getting abusive with people you don't know on the internet due to .

    On the subject of my ass, since you brought it up, It's large quite hairy yet very clean. Enjoy the image :D You were obviously thinking about it anyway. No wax though or penetration. I don't engage in either activity.


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    #27
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    IK09 wrote: »
    so....theres no chance of pics?

    So far have snow foamed, used iron cleanse, wheel cleanse, tar cleanse and shampoo'd with autoglm.

    Eventually clayed on Friday used autoglym kit with their detailing lube and it made a huge difference. Very easy to do as well.

    Next steps I need to wash again, polish and seal but even with the above it looks so much better, it's still just a Touran - practical box

    Am a rubbish photograher so don't have high hopes on that front but will try and get some shots up when I am done to show the difference it can make.


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    #28
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,370 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    MAJJ wrote: »
    So far have snow foamed, used iron cleanse, wheel cleanse, tar cleanse and shampoo'd with autoglm.

    Eventually clayed on Friday used autoglym kit with their detailing lube and it made a huge difference. Very easy to do as well.

    Next steps I need to wash again, polish and seal but even with the above it looks so much better, it's still just a Touran - practical box

    Am a rubbish photograher so don't have high hopes on that front but will try and get some shots up when I am done to show the difference it can make.
    Lies! All lies! I bet he doesn't even have a car. Not even any before pics.


    Due to the touchie feely nature of some posters on this thead, I must clarify this is all in jest :D


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    #29
    Curran
    Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Lies! All lies! I bet he doesn't even have a car. Not even any before pics.

    Fair play to anyone who doesnt have a car and buys a heap of detailing gear!!

    Although, he could have a tractor!! :D


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    #30
    MAJJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,679 ✭✭✭MAJJ


    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Lies! All lies! I bet he doesn't even have a car. Not even any before pics.
    /QUOTE]

    Ok you got me, I'm actually cleaning a card board box and it disintegrated when I snow foamed it. I just poured the other products I bought from Curran down the drain :) I felt part of the club for at least a few days, rumbled!


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    #31
    Black_Knight
    Moderators Posts: 12,370 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    MAJJ wrote: »
    Black_Knight wrote: »
    Lies! All lies! I bet he doesn't even have a car. Not even any before pics.
    /QUOTE]

    Ok you got me, I'm actually cleaning a card board box and it disintegrated when I snow foamed it. I just poured the other products I bought from Curran down the drain :) I felt part of the club for at least a few days, rumbled!

    Get some Gtechniq C4 and apply it to the cardboard. It'll fix it right up.


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