chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

Hi, I'm Kfods friend Adrian thats restoring Teal, I'm now angry because I just wrote all this and it disappeared. Its looks like you are
getting well stuck in anyway. I was just reading about your engine troubles.
I've had a few of those and your probably not going to like much of this.
The Dynastarts and manifolds are there downfall. The dynastarts are replaceable but at a cost, around 250 sterling. The regulators
can be replaced with a standard agri unit and a separate solenoid for starting, They are 50 euro odd in Cronins Commercial but they
are easy to F**k up, I think I was needing a 3rd one when I gave up on the MD2, The manifolds are a bigger issue, the ports are too small and they block and heat the aft cylinder, If you can unblock it well done but its probably been building that ****e up since the early 1960's, Replacements aren't available and any engines being sold for parts is because the manifolds are blocked.
The RB gearbox is also bit of a dog, They share the engine oil so if yours was crap that is through the gearbox as well. They are sticky at the best of times and don't work well on remotes, The later MD2B's have MS boxes which are much better as are the later manifolds, they also have starters and alternators.
I bought an MD11d to replace the MD2, it had been idle for years but clean and dry, I serviced it, ran it, fitted it and headed out only
to lose oil pressure. The Bearing shells had rusted and almost destroyed the crank shaft. Main and big end bearings cost me 300 sterling, a 100 sterling for Gaskets and 70euro to grind the maximum off the crank. It hurt.
The parts are out there but they are expensive. Bent push rods are almost a sure sign it water locked. I would advice you to break the engine down and take a serious look at it before making a decision on it.
They are expensive to fix and cheap to buy.
Sorry for a very depressing introduction but it might save you time and money.
Adrian

Your welcome,
Two other bits of info. Kfods MD1 dynastart worked for a few seasons with very slack belts, As soon as we got sick of the
slipping and tightened the belts it destroyed the bearings,
The other thing is to unbolt the strainer, the large nut around the dipstick if you haven't already and make sure its clean
and if you take a gauge off a compressor it will fit in the oil light sender hole and tell you your oil pressure nice and easily.
Good luck with it.

Do you mean brass or bronze, Brass shouldn't be used below the waterline or in anything majorly structural because it contains zinc that will become an anode in saltwater and they will become very brittle, brass isn't that strong to begin with. Your right to keep the stainless above the water also.
The caulking looks like it was caulked traditionally, She probably wouldn't have required much when new and its seems to compress to almost nothing considering the amount that goes in there. You sometime see seams that have dried to create a large gap that contains just a tread of cotton

Maybe take a look at this, http://www.artisanboatworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Glued-EdgePlanking_FINAL.pdf

Interesting, haven't heard of that before, there planking must have been really accurate. At least you shouldn't need to recaulk anything other than the planks you change and you can just put a caulking bevel on those and caulk them the traditional way. A millimeter or two is enough just so you can get a slim caulking iron in to open them up a little. The cotton and putty is forgiving if you make em a little big. Just get the inside edge of the plank as tight as you can.