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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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    #2492
    Moggaman
    Registered Users Posts: 348 ✭✭Moggaman


    Pic one is from the front
    Pic 2 and pic 3 show buffer plater about 3 inches from the top of the stove.
    There is one vent directly opposite the stove in the west wall but I blocked it cause there was a storm coming through it...

    quote="Robbie.G;86592769"]What vents are in room?
    What's this buffer plate?
    What way is stove connected to chimney?
    A few pics of stove and flue connection would be helpful
    There's some info here that might be of some help
    http://www.murphyheating.com/flue-guide-solid-fuel-stoves.pdf[/quote]


  • Options
    #2493
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Moggaman wrote: »
    Pic one is from the front
    Pic 2 and pic 3 show buffer plater about 3 inches from the top of the stove.
    There is one vent directly opposite the stove in the west wall but I blocked it cause there was a storm coming through it...

    quote="Robbie.G;86592769"]What vents are in room?
    What's this buffer plate?
    What way is stove connected to chimney?
    A few pics of stove and flue connection would be helpful
    There's some info here that might be of some help
    http://www.murphyheating.com/flue-guide-solid-fuel-stoves.pdf
    [/quote]

    Is the buffer(baffle)plate original or has it been adapted
    When the smoke happens have you tried opening a window or door to see if that helps
    Make sure there is no restriction in the flue
    The stove needs ventilation to work properly
    Usually this type of problem is due to lack of ventilation or flue restriction/blockage


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    #2494
    48nico
    Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭48nico


    just a quick question are waterford stanley stoves made in Ireland.some people are saying their coming from china


  • Options
    #2495
    ccull123
    Registered Users Posts: 587 ✭✭✭ccull123


    48nico wrote: »
    just a quick question are waterford stanley stoves made in Ireland.some people are saying their coming from china

    china.


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    #2496
    Discodog
    Registered Users Posts: 15,827 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    48nico wrote: »
    just a quick question are waterford stanley stoves made in Ireland.some people are saying their coming from china

    I have been told by two retailers that they were being made in China but are now being made in Poland.


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    #2497
    earthangel
    Registered Users Posts: 1 ✭earthangel


    Hello Im looking for a room heater stove for my open plan kitchen/dining room/sunroom. Would like to be able to burn coal and wood.
    The kitchen/dining area is about 8 metres long and 4 metres wide and standard height. The sunroom is about 4 metres long and 3 metres wide.
    Can anyone recommend a stove (nonboiler) that would be suitable. Looking for a good reliable brand. The sunroom gets very very cold in winter so would rather go a bit higher with the heat output.

    thanks in advance


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    #2498
    trishasaffron
    Registered Users Posts: 922 ✭✭✭trishasaffron


    I'm looking to instal a non boiler stove in a one-story house that is being refurbished. There is an existing fireplace and chimney. I have got 2 quotes for installation - labour and all the add on works/materials (excluding the stove) are coming in at about 2k - that seems rather high to me. I know every installation is different but would be interested in any thoughts or experiences on costs for comparison?


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    #2499
    rightjob!
    Registered Users Posts: 478 ✭✭rightjob!


    trishasaffron wrote: »
    I'm looking to instal a non boiler stove in a one-story house that is being refurbished. There is an existing fireplace and chimney. I have got 2 quotes for installation - labour and all the add on works/materials (excluding the stove) are coming in at about 2k - that seems rather high to me. I know every installation is different but would be interested in any thoughts or experiences on costs for comparison?

    sounds dear,but without seeing it its hard to tell.


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    #2500
    whowantstwoknow
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭whowantstwoknow


    Hi all,

    Currently have a living room with an unused decorative gas fire in a fireplace and a chimney balloon to prevent draughts. The house has gas CH and this room has 2 radiators.

    My better half wants to remove the gas device and use solid fuels in the fireplace. I would be concerned about the efficiency of just having an open fire so am looking at options to converse heat and costs, these include:

    1) When fire not in use, perhaps install something like the chimney draught stop

    2) or an insert stove that should provide more efficiency? There might be an issue here with installation due to the design of the fireplace. I dont see the stove heating rads etc, just the room which is aprox 5mx4m with a large window and a single & double doors. Its also south facing.

    I think she just likes the idea of the open fire as oppose to generating heat going by my typical gas bills!!

    My last option that I'm contemplating is to trade in the better half...could be easier all round!!!

    Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.

    W.


  • Options
    #2501
    martinr5232
    Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    whowantstwoknow wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Currently have a living room with an unused decorative gas fire in a fireplace and a chimney balloon to prevent draughts. The house has gas CH and this room has 2 radiators.

    My better half wants to remove the gas device and use solid fuels in the fireplace. I would be concerned about the efficiency of just having an open fire so am looking at options to converse heat and costs, these include:

    1) When fire not in use, perhaps install something like the chimney draught stop

    2) or an insert stove that should provide more efficiency? There might be an issue here with installation due to the design of the fireplace. I dont see the stove heating rads etc, just the room which is aprox 5mx4m with a large window and a single & double doors. Its also south facing.

    I think she just likes the idea of the open fire as oppose to generating heat going by my typical gas bills!!

    My last option that I'm contemplating is to trade in the better half...could be easier all round!!!

    Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.

    W.

    All fireplaces are the same as far as i know. It should only be a matter of removing the gas fire and blanking off the gas supply.
    Then either fit your insert or stove but you would need to have it professionly installed.


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    #2502
    MugMugs
    Registered Users Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    whowantstwoknow wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Currently have a living room with an unused decorative gas fire in a fireplace and a chimney balloon to prevent draughts. The house has gas CH and this room has 2 radiators.

    My better half wants to remove the gas device and use solid fuels in the fireplace. I would be concerned about the efficiency of just having an open fire so am looking at options to converse heat and costs, these include:

    1) When fire not in use, perhaps install something like the chimney draught stop

    2) or an insert stove that should provide more efficiency? There might be an issue here with installation due to the design of the fireplace. I dont see the stove heating rads etc, just the room which is aprox 5mx4m with a large window and a single & double doors. Its also south facing.

    I think she just likes the idea of the open fire as oppose to generating heat going by my typical gas bills!!

    My last option that I'm contemplating is to trade in the better half...could be easier all round!!!

    Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.

    W.

    Can you post up pictures of your fireplace?

    Is it able to take a stove / fire? A lot of those Gas Fireplaces are not as they are not split and not set in concrete so will just crack once you light a fire / stove.

    Best option for efficiency would be an inset stove if your hearth couldn't take a free standing stove but the mantle would either need to be able to take it and or have sufficient distance from the stove itself.

    A fire / stove is capable of heating radiators if there is a back boiler. Is there one?
    martinr5232 wrote: »
    All fireplaces are the same as far as i know. It should only be a matter of removing the gas fire and blanking off the gas supply.
    Not true.

    All fireplaces are not the same. A lot of fireplaces put in for Gas fires may not have the correct flue for an open fire or stove and the fireplace surround / hearth may not be capable of taking the heat generated from an open fire or stove.


  • Options
    #2503
    kopite davo
    Registered Users Posts: 471 ✭✭kopite davo


    hi all,
    probably been asked to death and dont have time to read 180 pages.
    thinking of installing an insert boiler stove. depending on cost/work required. have seen 3 upto now.
    stanley
    henley achill
    boru chieftan (only outputs 2kw to room. need 4)

    i have 3 large, 4 medium, 4 small rads.
    its a 2 story detatched house.

    anyone have any preferences/other stoves to recommend. poor/good customer services.
    any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks,
    dave


  • Options
    #2504
    mlenane100
    Registered Users Posts: 8 ✭mlenane100


    We've just installed (or should I say "are trying to") install a Stanley Oisin stove and just can't seem to get a seal around the stove outlet and the incoming flue pipe. We're using lagging rope to fill the gap between the two pipes and Purimachos fire cement on the inside rim and outside edge to double seal everything. Thing is, we've done this three times already but we still get what seems to be smoke leaking out. When we remove the cement and rope to inspect the seal, it looks like everything was actually sealed quite good.
    So my question is does fire cement by any chance give off smoke/steam whilst curing or are we getting a fire smoke leak. We notice a hissing noise from a bubble then the "smoke" appears.
    Gone past the point of pure frustration, blistered fingers and broken backs from having to keep lifting the stove in and out of position so desperate for any answers.

    Thanks.


  • Options
    #2505
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    mlenane100 wrote: »
    We've just installed (or should I say "are trying to") install a Stanley Oisin stove and just can't seem to get a seal around the stove outlet and the incoming flue pipe. We're using lagging rope to fill the gap between the two pipes and Purimachos fire cement on the inside rim and outside edge to double seal everything. Thing is, we've done this three times already but we still get what seems to be smoke leaking out. When we remove the cement and rope to inspect the seal, it looks like everything was actually sealed quite good.
    So my question is does fire cement by any chance give off smoke/steam whilst curing or are we getting a fire smoke leak. We notice a hissing noise from a bubble then the "smoke" appears.
    Gone past the point of pure frustration, blistered fingers and broken backs from having to keep lifting the stove in and out of position so desperate for any answers.

    Thanks.

    Is your flue clear?
    Was a smoke test done on your chimney before installation?
    Were you having any problems with your chimney before hand.
    What fuel are you using?
    Are your baffles in the correct position ?
    Try those is should be one of the above causing it


  • Options
    #2506
    mlenane100
    Registered Users Posts: 8 ✭mlenane100


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Is your flue clear?
    Was a smoke test done on your chimney before installation?
    Were you having any problems with your chimney before hand.
    What fuel are you using?
    Are your baffles in the correct position ?
    Try those is should be one of the above causing it

    Flue is clear, only swept last week.
    Chimney is sound.
    No problem with chimney in the past.
    We are burning very small fires with just scrunched up newspaper and 2 to 3 sticks of dried kindling. It burns for about 10 minutes before we let it go out. We repeat this every hour. It takes between 2 to 5 hours of doing this for the problem to appear. The cement does seem to have set by that stage.
    The only baffle we have is the baffle plate In the stove, fitted correctly.
    Our setup is the main chimney clay flue, a 5" to 8" adaptor, fire cemented in place. A 45 bend to a 1ft straight to another 45 bend which joins into the back of the stove.
    It is this last connection that is only causing a problem, everything else looks fine.


  • Options
    #2507
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    mlenane100 wrote: »
    Flue is clear, only swept last week.
    Chimney is sound.
    No problem with chimney in the past.
    We are burning very small fires with just scrunched up newspaper and 2 to 3 sticks of dried kindling. It burns for about 10 minutes before we let it go out. We repeat this every hour. It takes between 2 to 5 hours of doing this for the problem to appear. The cement does seem to have set by that stage.
    The only baffle we have is the baffle plate In the stove, fitted correctly.
    Our setup is the main chimney clay flue, a 5" to 8" adaptor, fire cemented in place. A 45 bend to a 1ft straight to another 45 bend which joins into the back of the stove.
    It is this last connection that is only causing a problem, everything else looks fine.

    The connection from stove to flue is it possible to take a pic of that.
    Which connection is the prob again if possible a pic can help


  • Options
    #2508
    mlenane100
    Registered Users Posts: 8 ✭mlenane100


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    The connection from stove to flue is it possible to take a pic of that.
    Which connection is the prob again if possible a pic can help

    It's the very first connection from the stove outlet to the first 45 flue pipe bend that is the problem. We have now removed all the fire cement and just left in the lagging rope and lit a small fire. There was absolutely no leakage of smoke this time.
    Excuse the mess of the pipe, we had quite a good cement seal going on before we had to chip it all off the first time.


  • Options
    #2509
    Brianne
    Registered Users Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    kopite davo wrote: »
    hi all,
    probably been asked to death and dont have time to read 180 pages.
    thinking of installing an insert boiler stove. depending on cost/work required. have seen 3 upto now.
    stanley
    henley achill
    boru chieftan (only outputs 2kw to room. need 4)

    i have 3 large, 4 medium, 4 small rads.
    its a 2 story detatched house.

    anyone have any preferences/other stoves to recommend. poor/good customer services.
    any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks,
    dave

    Dave we put in the Yola insert stove last winter and are very pleased. Made in Wexford. Guy that installed it was top class. 3 to room but large double rad in that room also. One other large double and the other 5 are quite large singles.


  • Options
    #2510
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    mlenane100 wrote: »
    It's the very first connection from the stove outlet to the first 45 flue pipe bend that is the problem. We have now removed all the fire cement and just left in the lagging rope and lit a small fire. There was absolutely no leakage of smoke this time.
    Excuse the mess of the pipe, we had quite a good cement seal going on before we had to chip it all off the first time.[
    Everything looks ok there.
    There should be no need for fire rope between the joints as they should be quite snug and only a bit if fire cement should seal them grand.
    I wouldn't think the fire cement would cause a problem.
    Once cemented it should be left to cure for 24hrs before lighting a very small fire.


  • Options
    #2511
    mlenane100
    Registered Users Posts: 8 ✭mlenane100


    Everything looks ok there.
    There should be no need for fire rope between the joints as they should be quite snug and only a bit if fire cement should seal them grand.
    I wouldn't think the fire cement would cause a problem.
    Once cemented it should be left to cure for 24hrs before lighting a very small fire.

    The reason we have to use the rope is because there is a quarter inch gap between the stove outlet and the flue pipe, they are not a snug fit, despite the fact we are using the recommended flue pipe size as stated in the installation manual. Its a 5" flue pipe we have used, a 6" is too large for the outlet.


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    #2512
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    mlenane100 wrote: »
    The reason we have to use the rope is because there is a quarter inch gap between the stove outlet and the flue pipe, they are not a snug fit, despite the fact we are using the recommended flue pipe size as stated in the installation manual. Its a 5" flue pipe we have used, a 6" is too large for the outlet.

    Your right in what your doing.the flue collar is 5in then short piece of flue then connected to chimney.
    Did you try with window or door open and see if that makes a difference.
    As I said there are a number of things that can cause the problems your having.All you can do is rule out all the things I said.After that all I can advise is to call in a pro to go through everything and check draft,ventilation.


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    #2513
    mlenane100
    Registered Users Posts: 8 ✭mlenane100


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Your right in what your doing.the flue collar is 5in then short piece of flue then connected to chimney.
    Did you try with window or door open and see if that makes a difference.
    As I said there are a number of things that can cause the problems your having.All you can do is rule out all the things I said.After that all I can advise is to call in a pro to go through everything and check draft,ventilation.

    Yeah its happened with windows both opened and closed. Just to confirm the "smoke" is coming out of the fire cement and not from the stove itself or from the chimney.
    Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. After running the stove for a while now without any cement, just the rope, it does more and more look like it was the cement that was the problem. If anyone else has had this type of problem I'd be grateful for any input.


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    #2514
    Sanchez83
    Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi Dave,
    Those Boru outputs of 15kw to the boiler and 2kw to the room make no logical sense.How can a stove with a big enough firebox to give 15kw to the water only give 2kw to the room?Theres no way it does 15 to the water IMO.
    While I don't have one myself,after seeing a few in shops I would say its size would indicate its closer to 12kw to water again IMO
    As for the Yola,very good stove from everything I've seen and heard.The only drawback is they can at times be hard to get.
    I saw a great deal at the ploughing match today for the Achill boiler with nearly 300 euro off the RRP but only until tomorrow :O


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    #2515
    mollybelle
    Registered Users Posts: 21 ✭mollybelle


    Hi all,
    I am thinking of having a Boru 600i insert stove fitted into my sitting room which measures 25' X 14' approx. the heat output is 10kw. Is this okay to put into my room as the online calculators say I need approx 6 to 8kw. would this be a bad idea and should I put in a stove with a lower heat output. Would appreciate any feedback. Thanks in advance.:)


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    #2516
    Sanchez83
    Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi Mollybelle,
    I would suggest that you should always over estimate the heat output you require so the Boru 600i seems fine.That 10kw is a maximum heat output as far as I'm aware so will be closer to 8kw nominal.
    If it seems too hot just reduce them air intake and fuel levels.


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    #2517
    leanbh
    Registered Users Posts: 254 ✭✭leanbh


    This post has been deleted.


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    #2518
    supergunner
    Registered Users Posts: 38 ✭supergunner


    Im thinking of buying a 6 kw stove non boiler from stovedeals.ie. Has anybody had any dealings with this company?


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    #2519
    therealmccoy
    Registered Users Posts: 179 ✭✭therealmccoy


    supergunner wrote: »
    Im thinking of buying a 6 kw stove non boiler from stovedeals.ie. Has anybody had any dealings with this company?

    Hi, I'd be cautious about buying any non-branded stove. Impossible to know anything about what it is like, i.e. quality. At least with a branded one you can search online and read reviews etc. Im not saying it will be dodgy but always be careful.

    To view a selection of stoves have a look here: http://naturalgreenenergy.ie/?post_type=stove&boiler=no&stove-subtype=free-standing&stove-fuel=solid-fuel&output_ave_min=0.00&output_ave_max=8.00

    Feel free to send me a PM if you have any queries.


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    #2520
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    Excellent thread this!!

    Can I ask for some help please?

    I will be buying a new stove when extension is completed. I want the best quality that will last.

    I want it to be a boiler stove and to run up to 8 radiators and water from it. The room which it will be fitted will be my kitchen which is 7m x 5m approx. The house is an 1990's bungalow with a BER D2

    Ive been looking at the Morso stoves and figure this one might fit the bill. http://www.stovecentre.ie/product.php?id_product=209

    Any opinions or advice appreciated.


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    #2521
    bennyineire
    Registered Users Posts: 2,466 ✭✭✭bennyineire


    Hey peps, I have a second hand cooker/stove installed and ready to go, it has a back boiler and I know that if I light a fire before its connected to the water that it will warp the boiler. Thing is I have it all in place but the gob****es who done the plumbing when I built the house 6 years ago put in an overhead PVC pipe instead of a copper pipe going to my hotpress, thing is no plumber will connect it up for me and I really can't afford to change the pipe as I a mature student and won't be working till about January.
    So basically my question is would it cost much to replace the boiler during the summer so I can have it ready for next winter, I'm willing to sacrifice the boiler thats already in it if it's not gonna cost to much the get a new one,
    What do ya reckon
    Thanks in advance


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