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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • #1302
    Daisy M
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Hi stove fan just after a little info if you would be able to oblige. We have an open fire in living room which has a back boiler. From what I understand if we were to install a stove we would have to rip out existing backboiler, would it be a good alternative to not get a stove and install fire doors on the open fire?


  • #1303
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Daisy M wrote: »
    Hi stove fan just after a little info if you would be able to oblige. We have an open fire in living room which has a back boiler. From what I understand if we were to install a stove we would have to rip out existing backboiler, would it be a good alternative to not get a stove and install fire doors on the open fire?

    Hi,

    Yes you would need to remove the backboiler and buy a boiler stove to heat the rads/water.
    If your not going to use the backboiler it should be removed anyway for safety.

    If money is tight installing a door front would increase the efficiency to the boiler. There has been a few people discussing them on this forum and people seem to give them the ok as more controllable and give better heat to the boiler. Although may still let quite a bit of heat out the chimney.

    Saying that though the boiler stove or inset boiler stove would be better efficiency as designed at the outset as a heating stove.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1304
    chughes
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭chughes


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    The inset stove is the best for installation simplicity unless your existing hearth that the new freestanding stove will sit on is very deep.

    If you have a freestanding stove the hearth has to project 12 inches in front of the stove for building regs/manufacturers instructions.
    Depending on your room depth this could look out of proportion.
    The other thing to remember is you have to add the depth between the wall to the stove. This will be mentioned in the installation manual.
    Stoves cant be placed straight against a wall, it must have the correct distance from the wall.
    Also if your fire surround is wooden then any stove must be the specified clearance to combustibles. Stanley installation instructions are online, so could view before buying if a self install.

    So long as it's well installed and of good manufacture they should both work equally well. If you mentioned the inset model someone might have that model:) It would be great to see one lit.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks for that Stove fan. I sort of fancied the standard type stove but the wife prefers the insert type so it looks like we'll go with the insert. There is no wood in the fire surround so there should be no issues regarding installation.

    We are getting a solar panel system installed as well and I have asked them to install a triple coil boiler to cater for the insert boiler as well as the solar panels and gas boiler. Are there any issues that might cause me problems with this setup?


  • #1305
    Daisy M
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi,

    Yes you would need to remove the backboiler and buy a boiler stove to heat the rads/water.
    If your not going to use the backboiler it should be removed anyway for safety.

    If money is tight installing a door front would increase the efficiency to the boiler. There has been a few people discussing them on this forum and people seem to give them the ok as more controllable and give better heat to the boiler. Although may still let quite a bit of heat out the chimney.

    Saying that though the boiler stove or inset boiler stove would be better efficiency as designed at the outset as a heating stove.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thank you, I will have a look through the thread for that. In fairness we seem to be lucky with our back boiler as it does work quiet well so maybe for now a door on the fire would be a good option. Thanks again:)


  • #1306
    eamonndo
    Registered Users Posts: 21 ✭eamonndo


    FAO Stove Fan.

    This has probably been asked before so apologies up front.

    I live in a 2100 sq ft two storey house heated by oil fired central heating built circa 2002. We have one fire place used during the winter to heat main living room. We also have a fire place shutter to close off fire during summer/when fire is not lit. It has no back bolier so only heats one room. We have 12 rads and immersion tank is upstairs.

    I'm loooking at the possibility of integrating a boiler stove (preference multi-fuel) with our existing oil fired boiler/heating system. This stove would sit in the fireplace and heat all/most of the 12 rads when the stove is lit. We only light the fire from say 4-5pm so would need something to heat the rads/rooms within 1-2 hours of fire being lit.

    I'm not sure how difficult/costly it would be to integrate the boliler stove into the existing system or if what I'm looking to do is possible.

    Can you provide me some suggestions and approximate costs for stove + plumbing work for this and any other tips please.

    Many thanks in advance


  • #1307
    Brianne
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Daisy we thought of going that route also as our very old back boiler is very efficient. We did see one of these in operation in a house and they were very pleased with it altogether. I just wonder maybe Stovefan can add anything to this but is there a danger to the flue as you cannot use liner with these doors as theres nothing to attach liner too. Don't know if I explained that right. We're thinking about a boiler inset stove all the year but even in stove shops you get varying advice about these stoves, some will tell you that they will not throw heat into the room. I've been told that lately again so I'm waiting to see if I can find somebody has any of these insets in operation that I can go and see it lighting.


  • #1308
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    chughes wrote: »
    Thanks for that Stove fan. I sort of fancied the standard type stove but the wife prefers the insert type so it looks like we'll go with the insert. There is no wood in the fire surround so there should be no issues regarding installation.

    We are getting a solar panel system installed as well and I have asked them to install a triple coil boiler to cater for the insert boiler as well as the solar panels and gas boiler. Are there any issues that might cause me problems with this setup?

    Using a 3 coil cylinder is an option although the heat would be lost through inadequate insulation on the cylinder.

    The better but more expensive option would be a highly insulated thermal store/ buffer tank. These are super insulated and loose very little heat. They work well with boiler stoves too.

    Get some quotes on both setups and discuss with your plumber to see whats possible in your property:)

    Out of the two the thermal store would work best.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1309
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    eamonndo wrote: »
    FAO Stove Fan.

    This has probably been asked before so apologies up front.

    I live in a 2100 sq ft two storey house heated by oil fired central heating built circa 2002. We have one fire place used during the winter to heat main living room. We also have a fire place shutter to close off fire during summer/when fire is not lit. It has no back bolier so only heats one room. We have 12 rads and immersion tank is upstairs.

    I'm loooking at the possibility of integrating a boiler stove (preference multi-fuel) with our existing oil fired boiler/heating system. This stove would sit in the fireplace and heat all/most of the 12 rads when the stove is lit. We only light the fire from say 4-5pm so would need something to heat the rads/rooms within 1-2 hours of fire being lit.

    I'm not sure how difficult/costly it would be to integrate the boliler stove into the existing system or if what I'm looking to do is possible.

    Can you provide me some suggestions and approximate costs for stove + plumbing work for this and any other tips please.

    Many thanks in advance

    Hi, the first thing that needs to be established is if your heating system is open vented or sealed/closed system. The majority of solid fuel boiler stoves need an open vented system. Sealed/closed system is possible but very few stoves with this are made and quite expensive.

    You would need to change the hot water cylinder to a twincoil cylinder. One coil for existing boiler other for new boiler stove. If solar as well a 3 coil cylinder or thermal store/buffer tank.

    Your cylinder needs to ideally/ best practice to be installed no more than 4 metres from the stove and higher than the stove, ie upstairs or in loft if a bungalow. Yours is upstairs so thats good but depends on if the cylinder can be plumbed to work on gravity circulation.

    Provision in the system should ensure a suitably sized gravity radiator is installed.

    I have no idea on cost but the cylinders are about 200euro but it really depends on how complex the installation is and what plumbing is involved.

    I can only really advice to get quotes but as a total guess budget anything from at least 2,500euro upwards for a basic stove and a very simple straightforward installation. It really depends on so many factors, lining chimney/ fireplace alterations, plumbing in complexity etc.

    Have a look at the Aarrow ecoboiler range if wanting a reasonable stove at a reasonable price. But please get plumber to size the boiler and room heat required.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1310
    Daisy M
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,559 ✭✭✭Daisy M


    Brianne wrote: »
    Daisy we thought of going that route also as our very old back boiler is very efficient. We did see one of these in operation in a house and they were very pleased with it altogether. I just wonder maybe Stovefan can add anything to this but is there a danger to the flue as you cannot use liner with these doors as theres nothing to attach liner too. Don't know if I explained that right. We're thinking about a boiler inset stove all the year but even in stove shops you get varying advice about these stoves, some will tell you that they will not throw heat into the room. I've been told that lately again so I'm waiting to see if I can find somebody has any of these insets in operation that I can go and see it lighting.

    Hi Brianne, I amstarting to think we should leave it and start saving for a proper stove. I like the look of inset stoves but I also like what fox shooter post 1125 has done with his fireplace. This is a stupid question I know but if you get an inset stove do you still need to remove the back boiler?


  • #1311
    Brianne
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Yes Daisy the back boiler must go. Yes that stove you mentioned looks very well and sits in there nicely.


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  • #1312
    Hootanany
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,477 ✭✭✭Hootanany


    Hi
    Sorry for butting in I am now looking for a 8 to 12 kw non boiler stove.
    Any recommendations would be appreciated, are Firewarm any good cost is an issue.

    Many thanks in advance.


  • #1313
    stephen_k
    Registered Users Posts: 449 ✭✭stephen_k


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    If you have a freestanding stove the hearth has to project 12 inches in front of the stove for building regs/manufacturers instructions.
    Stove Fan:)

    Hi Stove Fan,

    Just wanted to clarify as it may affect their decision but by building regs and Hetas recommendations your hearth has to only be in excess of 225mm (9") from the front of the stove (if it's a closed appliance)...


  • #1314
    Rob_talisman
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Rob_talisman


    Well ive been able to lit my fire a couple of times now :D

    Ill post some photos later.

    Only thing im finding is that after a while im getting a haze in the room, doesnt smell smokey, hasnt set off the carbon monoxide detector.

    Is this normal for a "new" fire ie is it the paint from the fire itself burning off.?


  • #1315
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    stephen_k wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan,

    Just wanted to clarify as it may affect their decision but by building regs and Hetas recommendations your hearth has to only be in excess of 225mm (9") from the front of the stove (if it's a closed appliance)...

    Hi, in some stove manufacturers instructions they say a 225mm hearth infront is ok but in other manufacturers they state that 300mm is the required distance.

    It really depends on the manufacturer but myself I would recommend to go for 12 inches infront.


    See here. http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-hearth-size.html

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1316
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Rob_talisman wrote: »
    Well ive been able to lit my fire a couple of times now :D

    Ill post some photos later.

    Only thing im finding is that after a while im getting a haze in the room, doesnt smell smokey, hasnt set off the carbon monoxide detector.

    Is this normal for a "new" fire ie is it the paint from the fire itself burning off.?

    Yep, totally normal on a new stove as the paint cures, it may take a few fires to get rid of the smell. It's just that you have been increasing the heat output and hence the hotter the fire the more it's curing.:D Just open the windows and it will clear after the stove is up to a nice hot temp.
    Looking forward to the pictures:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1317
    moy83
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Hi folks I want to put a solid fuel stove in the parents house but there is no chimney in place .
    I want to bring a meter of single wall flue up from the top of the stove (to throw a bit more heat out) then turn it out through cavity wall with a 45 degree bend into a twinwall flu with an adaptor .
    The fella in the shop told me to spray the adaptor black to match the single wall flu and that it would look fine in the room but i put it together for a dry run and i think the 45 bend going into the adaptor will look very butch where it goes through the wall on the inside .
    Is there any tidy way to have just one sized flu showing on the inside of the wall ? Thanks in advance for any help


  • #1318
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    moy83 wrote: »
    Hi folks I want to put a solid fuel stove in the parents house but there is no chimney in place .
    I want to bring a meter of single wall flue up from the top of the stove (to throw a bit more heat out) then turn it out through cavity wall with a 45 degree bend into a twinwall flu with an adaptor .
    The fella in the shop told me to spray the adaptor black to match the single wall flu and that it would look fine in the room but i put it together for a dry run and i think the 45 bend going into the adaptor will look very butch where it goes through the wall on the inside .
    Is there any tidy way to have just one sized flu showing on the inside of the wall ? Thanks in advance for any help


    Unfortunately not really, but you can get a taper fitting to make it look better internally, but really for the vertical flue section, some tapered adapters are short though. You would have single wall length, 45degree elbow, short tapered fitting. (This tapered fitting is twinwall but joins single wall pipe to twinwall) This tapered adapter would be installed after the 45degree bend but before going through the wall.
    It depends if your manufacturer makes one as you can't just use any other manufacturer unless the joining method is compatible:(
    The tapered adapters look something like this.
    http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/MD_Plus_150mm_Adaptors.html
    http://www.stovecentre.ie/category.php?id_category=176&n=20&orderby=name&orderway=desc
    Basically a length of pipe that increases from the single walled flue to the twinwall flue rather than a step.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1319
    moy83
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Unfortunately not really, but you can get a taper fitting to make it look better internally, but really for the vertical flue section, some tapered adapters are short though. You would have single wall length, 45degree elbow, short tapered fitting. (This tapered fitting is twinwall but joins single wall pipe to twinwall) This tapered adapter would be installed after the 45degree bend but before going through the wall.
    It depends if your manufacturer makes one as you can't just use any other manufacturer unless the joining method is compatible:(
    The tapered adapters look something like this.
    http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/MD_Plus_150mm_Adaptors.html
    http://www.stovecentre.ie/category.php?id_category=176&n=20&orderby=name&orderway=desc
    Basically a length of pipe that increases from the single walled flue to the twinwall flue rather than a step.

    Stove Fan:)
    Thanks Stove Fan ,its the stanley oisin stove . The tapered flu would be a bit of an improvement , but still i think its not brilliant to look at . Ill check tomorrow if they have tapered adapters and twin wall flue in the black but I dont think they do .
    Its also an option to go through the ceiling and out the roof as there is only about 3ft between the bottom of the ceiling and the slates , would the adapter still have to be seen under the ceiling or is there a neater way if I go straight up ? Thanks


  • #1320
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    moy83 wrote: »
    Thanks Stove Fan ,its the stanley oisin stove . The tapered flu would be a bit of an improvement , but still i think its not brilliant to look at . Ill check tomorrow if they have tapered adapters and twin wall flue in the black but I dont think they do .
    Its also an option to go through the ceiling and out the roof as there is only about 3ft between the bottom of the ceiling and the slates , would the adapter still have to be seen under the ceiling or is there a neater way if I go straight up ? Thanks

    Yes unfortunately the adapter would have to be seen below the ceiling. It's usual to have 1.5 metres max length of singlewall and then adapter into twinwall. It would look neater going vertical though.
    You can paint it black though as you know.

    Most installers now though in the UK run the twinwall directly off the stove as then the fluepipe can be nearer to the wall. A singlewall 5 inch fluepipe needs to be 3 times the diameter away (15 inches) from a flammable wall. ie plasterboard etc. unless heat shielded or non flammable.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/flue-distance-to-combustibles.html

    Stove Fan:)


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  • #1321
    moy83
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Thanks Stove Fan after looking at it again this morning I'm going to go through the ceiling and roof .
    Will the twin walled flue need to be boxed when going through the attic (bout 3ft) or is it safe to leave it exposed ? Thanks again


  • #1322
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    moy83 wrote: »
    Thanks Stove Fan after looking at it again this morning I'm going to go through the ceiling and roof .
    Will the twin walled flue need to be boxed when going through the attic (bout 3ft) or is it safe to leave it exposed ? Thanks again

    Hi you will need to use some kind of mesh protection to stop any stored objects from touching the flue in the loft space.

    At the base of the chimney in the loft best to buy one of these, it prevents the insulation from touching the warm chimney. Scroll down to view.(Attic insulation shield)
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Selkirk-flue.html

    Some details on boxing in.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/twin-wall-flue-boxing.html


    Basically any cupboards or rooms you have to box the chimney in to prevent any combustible objects or humans touching the warm/hottish flue, I would use a metal frame system at least 50mm away or whatever the flue manufacturer states and use fireproof plasterboard and in the loft use an attic insulation shield and fix some grilled mesh spaced out from the flue to stop any stored/falling objects touching the flue. There should be no flue joints inside the floors/roof penetrations and any joins should be a minimum 6 inches above or below the floor/ceiling/ roof penetrations.

    Your manufacturer of your flue should cover these points in their installation instructions and distances to combustibles.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1323
    cordni
    Registered Users Posts: 219 ✭✭cordni


    so firstly a big big thanks to stoveman who has been so helpful with his advice. so my stove is in and i lurv it !!!!! it's so clean in comparison to an open fire. I wanted a morso squirrel but due to budget restrictions I had to go with a blacksmith, but in saying that I love the look of it... can't really comment on it's performance yet. Wow that tip about using the ashes with newspaper to clean the glass is fantastic, when I heard it I was like... no way that can't work, but trust me it does.

    I loved all the before and after pics when I went through this thread so I will put mine up tomorrow

    Stoveman, one final question, and it's about the use of the stove. so I have opened the bottom and top vents totally when I light the fire. when its full light I then close both halfway .... is that correct? what should I be doing first for optimum heat and secondly to ensure the glass stays clean?

    thanks for all your help to date, you are a great ambassador for stoves :D


  • #1324
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    cordni wrote: »
    so firstly a big big thanks to stoveman who has been so helpful with his advice. so my stove is in and i lurv it !!!!! it's so clean in comparison to an open fire. I wanted a morso squirrel but due to budget restrictions I had to go with a blacksmith, but in saying that I love the look of it... can't really comment on it's performance yet. Wow that tip about using the ashes with newspaper to clean the glass is fantastic, when I heard it I was like... no way that can't work, but trust me it does.

    I loved all the before and after pics when I went through this thread so I will put mine up tomorrow

    Stoveman, one final question, and it's about the use of the stove. so I have opened the bottom and top vents totally when I light the fire. when its full light I then close both halfway .... is that correct? what should I be doing first for optimum heat and secondly to ensure the glass stays clean?

    thanks for all your help to date, you are a great ambassador for stoves :D

    Thanks:D Make sure the ashes are just wood ash as coal ashes will scratch the glass.
    With the vents, yes leave them fully open when lighting then after 10-15 minutes close the bottom vent.
    You should then control the burn using the top vent. Depending on how good the stove is you may need to have the bottom vent partially open.
    It is really trial and error and experimentation to get the temperature you like. I would advice a stove thermometer as it's a great way to see if you are burning too cool or on the other hand too hot.The stovax thermometer is ok.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1325
    cordni
    Registered Users Posts: 219 ✭✭cordni


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    cordni wrote: »
    so firstly a big big thanks to stoveman who has been so helpful with his advice. so my stove is in and i lurv it !!!!! it's so clean in comparison to an open fire. I wanted a morso squirrel but due to budget restrictions I had to go with a blacksmith, but in saying that I love the look of it... can't really comment on it's performance yet. Wow that tip about using the ashes with newspaper to clean the glass is fantastic, when I heard it I was like... no way that can't work, but trust me it does.

    I loved all the before and after pics when I went through this thread so I will put mine up tomorrow

    Stoveman, one final question, and it's about the use of the stove. so I have opened the bottom and top vents totally when I light the fire. when its full light I then close both halfway .... is that correct? what should I be doing first for optimum heat and secondly to ensure the glass stays clean?

    thanks for all your help to date, you are a great ambassador for stoves :D

    Thanks:D Make sure the ashes are just wood ash as coal ashes will scratch the glass.
    With the vents, yes leave them fully open when lighting then after 10-15 minutes close the bottom vent.
    You should then control the burn using the top vent. Depending on how good the stove is you may need to have the bottom vent partially open.
    It is really trial and error and experimentation to get the temperature you like. I would advice a stove thermometer as it's a great way to see if you are burning too cool or on the other hand too hot.The stovax thermometer is ok.

    Stove Fan:)

    Once again fantastic advice! I thought the lower vent needed to be open for heat..... Shows what I know. Thanks stove
    Fan


  • #1326
    Torrie
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭Torrie


    I was thinking of putting a small multi-fuel inset stove into my sitting room. Visited 3 places today and was told 3 different things:

    1) I could just slot it in and it'd work fine.


    2) I could slot it in and it would work ok, but i'd be better putting two 45 angles on the back and about a metre of flue up the chimney with a reducer to seal. This would cost about 150 on price of stove.

    3) I'd need to line the chimney fully at a cost of about €900.

    Anyone offer any advice?

    Thanks


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  • #1327
    mylomac
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭mylomac


    Hi Stovefan,

    I have spent a fair bit of time following the thread and picked up some useful information.
    Our bungalow has 12 rads - breakdown below. The stove will be in a room 16 x 20 feet, lofted ceiling up to 12 feet with 3 large velux windows. ( 2 of the largest rads are in this room)
    Based on previous posts, I have calculated a room requirement of around 7kw and a water/rads requirement of around 12.
    I am looking at the Stratford SEB 20.
    I have 2 questions :
    1. Are my calculations reasonable and would these be covered by a 20w stove or am I cutting it a bit fine ?
    2. Do you have any experience/opinions re: Stratford Stoves ?

    Thanks for any help, not to mention all your previous posts !

    Rad breakdown

    500x1200 double 500x1200 single 500x1200 s 500x1100 s 500x1600 s 500x800 s 500x1000 d 500x400 s 500x1000 s 500x1400 s 300x2000 d 300x2000 d



  • #1328
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    mylomac wrote: »
    Hi Stovefan,

    I have spent a fair bit of time following the thread and picked up some useful information.
    Our bungalow has 12 rads - breakdown below. The stove will be in a room 16 x 20 feet, lofted ceiling up to 12 feet with 3 large velux windows. ( 2 of the largest rads are in this room)
    Based on previous posts, I have calculated a room requirement of around 7kw and a water/rads requirement of around 12.
    I am looking at the Stratford SEB 20.
    I have 2 questions :
    1. Are my calculations reasonable and would these be covered by a 20w stove or am I cutting it a bit fine ?
    2. Do you have any experience/opinions re: Stratford Stoves ?

    Thanks for any help, not to mention all your previous posts !

    Rad breakdown

    500x1200 double 500x1200 single 500x1200 s 500x1100 s 500x1600 s 500x800 s 500x1000 d 500x400 s 500x1000 s 500x1400 s 300x2000 d 300x2000 d


    Hi,

    Which are the two large double radiators are in this vaulted room with the stove? These rads will not be needed with the stoves room heat:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1329
    mylomac
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭mylomac


    Hi Stovefan,

    These two doubles - 300x2000 d 300x2000 d

    Thanks.


  • #1330
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    mylomac wrote: »
    Hi Stovefan,

    I have spent a fair bit of time following the thread and picked up some useful information.
    Our bungalow has 12 rads - breakdown below. The stove will be in a room 16 x 20 feet, lofted ceiling up to 12 feet with 3 large velux windows. ( 2 of the largest rads are in this room)
    Based on previous posts, I have calculated a room requirement of around 7kw and a water/rads requirement of around 12.
    I am looking at the Stratford SEB 20.
    I have 2 questions :
    1. Are my calculations reasonable and would these be covered by a 20w stove or am I cutting it a bit fine ?
    2. Do you have any experience/opinions re: Stratford Stoves ?

    Thanks for any help, not to mention all your previous posts !

    Rad breakdown

    500x1200 double 500x1200 single 500x1200 s 500x1100 s 500x1600 s 500x800 s 500x1000 d 500x400 s 500x1000 s 500x1400 s 300x2000 d 300x2000 d

    Your very much correct on the output required:D I calculated you need a boiler stove with a 13kw backboiler and that your room requires a stove heat output of 6.5kw.

    The SEB20 is an old discounted model for quite a while now (August2011 I believe)
    The replacement stove is the Aarrow ecoboiler EB series.

    These are an improved model and heat the water quicker etc.

    I personally would go for the EB12HE stove as it produces 6kw to the room and 12kw to the water.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Stratford-Ecoboiler-Stoves.html I would of linked to the manufacturers website but they no longer list the various models at the moment:(
    I think this should heat the 10 rads/hot water but I would install a few thermostatic rad valves on rads that don't need to be fully heated.

    I wouldn't go for a stove with a higher room heat greater than 6kw especially as your 2 existing double rads in the vaulted room produce 4 kw. If these 2 rads heat the vaulted room well then the 6kw stove room heat should heat this space very well.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1331
    clappyhappy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,781 ✭✭✭clappyhappy


    we just bought a stanley cara inset stove, my sister has one in her home and it seems to be superb. We had a gas fire in the sitting room, and a stove in the kitchen, haven't used the sitting room in about two years as we love the fire in the stove. Getting it fitted this week and looking forward to using the room again and having a nice fire there. I hope its as good as everyone says. Certainly looks very neat and stylish.


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  • #1332
    Rob_talisman
    Registered Users Posts: 28 ✭Rob_talisman


    And now with pics.


  • #1333
    Hootanany
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,477 ✭✭✭Hootanany


    Hootanany wrote: »
    Hi
    Sorry for butting in I am now looking for a 8 to 12 kw non boiler stove.
    Any recommendations would be appreciated, are Firewarm any good cost is an issue.

    Many thanks in advance.
    :(


  • #1334
    Jackbg
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭Jackbg


    Thanks Stove Fan,

    Any opinions on the Tara stove now from Stanley...7kw to room and 3kw to water with overnight capability. My room is 25x14x8 and one 25ft wall has 2 6ftx7ft windows and patio sliding doors. Would that kw to room be too high, and would that kw water be enough for showers, etc.

    Thanks again :-)


  • #1335
    meercat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,786 ✭✭✭meercat


    Torrie wrote: »
    I was thinking of putting a small multi-fuel inset stove into my sitting room. Visited 3 places today and was told 3 different things:

    1) I could just slot it in and it'd work fine.


    2) I could slot it in and it would work ok, but i'd be better putting two 45 angles on the back and about a metre of flue up the chimney with a reducer to seal. This would cost about 150 on price of stove.

    3) I'd need to line the chimney fully at a cost of about €900.

    Anyone offer any advice?

    Thanks

    welcome to boards
    perhaps mods will move to this thread for you
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056390351

    stove fans the man:D


  • #1336
    mylomac
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭mylomac


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Your very much correct on the output required:D I calculated you need a boiler stove with a 13kw backboiler and that your room requires a stove heat output of 6.5kw.

    The SEB20 is an old discounted model for quite a while now (August2011 I believe)
    The replacement stove is the Aarrow ecoboiler EB series.

    These are an improved model and heat the water quicker etc.

    I personally would go for the EB12HE stove as it produces 6kw to the room and 12kw to the water.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Stratford-Ecoboiler-Stoves.html I would of linked to the manufacturers website but they no longer list the various models at the moment:(
    I think this should heat the 10 rads/hot water but I would install a few thermostatic rad valves on rads that don't need to be fully heated.

    I wouldn't go for a stove with a higher room heat greater than 6kw especially as your 2 existing double rads in the vaulted room produce 4 kw. If these 2 rads heat the vaulted room well then the 6kw stove room heat should heat this space very well.

    Stove Fan:)
    Hi Stove Fan,

    Thanks for your reply I'll check out the EB12HE.

    I don't know a good plumber to use (yet !) but have some reccomendations.
    One that I have spoken to has doubted whether I can tie a stove boiler into the existing oil burner fired central heating system.
    His issue is that "the outlet pipe from the Stove is 1 inch, whereas the existing system piping is 3/4 inch".
    I haven't come accross this as an issue before - have you ?

    Thanks.


  • #1337
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hootanany wrote: »
    :(

    Hi, I didn't reply because I have never heard of firewarm. If your looking for a budget stove consider the Firefox or Tiger stoves. They are cast in China but seem pretty well put together.

    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Tiger-and-Firefox-stoves.html
    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c92/
    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c69/

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1338
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Jackbg wrote: »
    Thanks Stove Fan,

    Any opinions on the Tara stove now from Stanley...7kw to room and 3kw to water with overnight capability. My room is 25x14x8 and one 25ft wall has 2 6ftx7ft windows and patio sliding doors. Would that kw to room be too high, and would that kw water be enough for showers, etc.

    Thanks again :-)

    I rated it as 6kw but I think 7kw would be fine especially with the expanse of glass. It really depends on insulation levels but feel 7kw should heat the space fine.

    The tara should heat the standard sized hot water cylinder no problem as a standard sized hot water cylinder needs around 2-3kw to heat it.
    http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-hot-water/solid-fuel/tara-stove.aspx
    It looks an acceptable stove, depending on price, at least it's a well known brand.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1339
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    mylomac wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan,

    Thanks for your reply I'll check out the EB12HE.

    I don't know a good plumber to use (yet !) but have some reccomendations.
    One that I have spoken to has doubted whether I can tie a stove boiler into the existing oil burner fired central heating system.
    His issue is that "the outlet pipe from the Stove is 1 inch, whereas the existing system piping is 3/4 inch".
    I haven't come accross this as an issue before - have you ?

    Thanks.

    Hi, your plumber should be routing the 1 inch pipe work to a new twincoil cylinder in the hotpress. This is a pair of 1 inch pipes, Primary flow and return. This cylinder should most ideally be above the stove and no further than 4 metres away to work effectively on gravity circulation.
    The plumber should also have at least 1 radiator working as a heat leak radiator also on gravity circulation, This gravity circulation dissipates the heat in the event of a powercut.
    The oil system and boiler stove should be an open vented system and not a sealed/ pressurised system.

    The radiator piping can then either tee off the 1 inch flow in 3/4 or run seperate 3/4 inch piping from the stove boiler outlets to tee into the existing radiator circuit piping.

    Personally I would try more quotes with someone more used to installing boiler stoves.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1340
    moy83
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Hi Stove Fan I'm looking for guidance again if you will be so kind .
    I got the twinwall out through the slates this evening and used the lead flashing they gave me .
    Now they gave me what I think is called a storm cap that goes around the pipe and sits over the lead where it comes up the pipe and its idea is to throw the drips out away from the joint . But its just a thin piece of stainless that doesnt kiss in brilliantly to the flue pipe ,so my question is could i put a gasket of some sort inside the storm cap before I tighten it around the flue or should i butter up the top of the lead wit fire cement / silicon ?
    Thanks in advance


  • #1341
    Torrie
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭Torrie


    Thanks meercat!


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  • #1342
    delly
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 7,722 Mod ✭✭✭✭delly


    Hi Torrie, I have moved your question to a new thread here in the P+H forum, as I can't put them into the Stoves Q+A due to the fact I don't mod this forum. One of the P+H Mods will do the job soon enough though.


  • #1343
    mylomac
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭mylomac


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi, your plumber should be routing the 1 inch pipe work to a new twincoil cylinder in the hotpress. This is a pair of 1 inch pipes, Primary flow and return. This cylinder should most ideally be above the stove and no further than 4 metres away to work effectively on gravity circulation.
    The plumber should also have at least 1 radiator working as a heat leak radiator also on gravity circulation, This gravity circulation dissipates the heat in the event of a powercut.
    The oil system and boiler stove should be an open vented system and not a sealed/ pressurised system.

    The radiator piping can then either tee off the 1 inch flow in 3/4 or run seperate 3/4 inch piping from the stove boiler outlets to tee into the existing radiator circuit piping.

    Personally I would try more quotes with someone more used to installing boiler stoves.

    Stove Fan:)
    Hi Stove fan,

    Thanks for the explanation, I think I got most of it. In brief, it is possible, but there's more work that I thought.

    1. I will speak to a plumber with experience installing boiler stoves - I just want to have an understanding of the setup myself before going ahead.
    2. It is an open vented system. The cylinder level would be above the stove level (by around 1 metre)
    3. So I would need to replace my existing cylider with a new twincoil cylinder that takes one feed from the oil boiler and one from the stove ?
    4. The current oil boiler is 6 metres away from the cylnder. The stove would be 5 metres away from the cylinder. Is this a non-runner or is there a way around this ?

    Thanks.



    Thanks.


  • #1344
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    moy83 wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan I'm looking for guidance again if you will be so kind .
    I got the twinwall out through the slates this evening and used the lead flashing they gave me .
    Now they gave me what I think is called a storm cap that goes around the pipe and sits over the lead where it comes up the pipe and its idea is to throw the drips out away from the joint . But its just a thin piece of stainless that doesnt kiss in brilliantly to the flue pipe ,so my question is could i put a gasket of some sort inside the storm cap before I tighten it around the flue or should i butter up the top of the lead wit fire cement / silicon ?
    Thanks in advance

    Round the stainless steel ring (storm collar) use heat resistant silicone to form a seal around the pipe and storm collar. Like plumba flue etc. Use only on the twinwall, not on the single wall pipe.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1345
    emg74
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭emg74


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Your very much correct on the output required:D I calculated you need a boiler stove with a 13kw backboiler and that your room requires a stove heat output of 6.5kw.

    The SEB20 is an old discounted model for quite a while now (August2011 I believe)
    The replacement stove is the Aarrow ecoboiler EB series.

    These are an improved model and heat the water quicker etc.

    I personally would go for the EB12HE stove as it produces 6kw to the room and 12kw to the water.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Stratford-Ecoboiler-Stoves.html I would of linked to the manufacturers website but they no longer list the various models at the moment:(
    I think this should heat the 10 rads/hot water but I would install a few thermostatic rad valves on rads that don't need to be fully heated.

    I wouldn't go for a stove with a higher room heat greater than 6kw especially as your 2 existing double rads in the vaulted room produce 4 kw. If these 2 rads heat the vaulted room well then the 6kw stove room heat should heat this space very well.

    Stove Fan:)

    Just updating to say that we got a Stratford EB12HE fitted during the summer. This is the first week that we are really testing it, up to now just had enough of a fire to heat the water - Didn't want any heat in the rads. This week however it is fully up and running and it is FAB :D We love it, so efficient on fuel, We are burning a mix of turf, logs and a bit of coal. I am amazed at how little fuel it is needing, the cylinder is full and the rads are so hot. It is going to make a huge difference to our heating bill and will pay for itself pretty quickly I reckon. I am hoping that we will not use any oil this year.

    Over the weekend with fire on all day Sunday from approx 12pm, we used a bin of turf ( 5 gallon oil drum used as a turf bin), about 8 blocks of timber to get it lit and a few shovels of cheapie economy coal. The kids had a bath and I had a shower over the course of the day. Once it is up and running, the water in the cylinder is replaced very quickly after say a shower. When the rads are hot, they hold the heat for hours without having to keep stoking the fire.

    I would highly recommend this stove to anyone.


  • #1346
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    mylomac wrote: »
    Hi Stove fan,

    Thanks for the explanation, I think I got most of it. In brief, it is possible, but there's more work that I thought.

    1. I will speak to a plumber with experience installing boiler stoves - I just want to have an understanding of the setup myself before going ahead.
    2. It is an open vented system. The cylinder level would be above the stove level (by around 1 metre)
    3. So I would need to replace my existing cylider with a new twincoil cylinder that takes one feed from the oil boiler and one from the stove ?
    4. The current oil boiler is 6 metres away from the cylnder. The stove would be 5 metres away from the cylinder. Is this a non-runner or is there a way around this ?

    Thanks.



    Thanks.

    3) Yes one set of coils for stove and the other set of coils for stove on the twincoil cylinder.

    4) The oil boiler siting can be very flexible as to distance. The hot water cylinder will work best the nearer it is to the stove.
    The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and then down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
    The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder.

    If the cylinder is on the first floor or in the loft of a bungalow and the pipework from stove to cylinder can constantly rise to the cylinder then you have a working system.

    If not your plumber would need to move the cylinder to above the stove and adapt extend the pipework to oil boiler etc.

    Only a site visit can establish these points.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1347
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    emg74 wrote: »
    Just updating to say that we got a Stratford EB12HE fitted during the summer. This is the first week that we are really testing it, up to now just had enough of a fire to heat the water - Didn't want any heat in the rads. This week however it is fully up and running and it is FAB :D We love it, so efficient on fuel, We are burning a mix of turf, logs and a bit of coal. I am amazed at how little fuel it is needing, the cylinder is full and the rads are so hot. It is going to make a huge difference to our heating bill and will pay for itself pretty quickly I reckon. I am hoping that we will not use any oil this year.

    Over the weekend with fire on all day Sunday from approx 12pm, we used a bin of turf ( 5 gallon oil drum used as a turf bin), about 8 blocks of timber to get it lit and a few shovels of cheapie economy coal. The kids had a bath and I had a shower over the course of the day. Once it is up and running, the water in the cylinder is replaced very quickly after say a shower. When the rads are hot, they hold the heat for hours without having to keep stoking the fire.

    I would highly recommend this stove to anyone.

    So great to hear you are still delighted with it:D. From a potential customers view you can't beat a tried and tested recommendation:D
    You could write a review of it here:
    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/aarrow-stoves/stratford-eb-12-he-stove.html

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1348
    mylomac
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭mylomac


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    3) Yes one set of coils for stove and the other set of coils for stove on the twincoil cylinder.

    4) The oil boiler siting can be very flexible as to distance. The hot water cylinder will work best the nearer it is to the stove.
    The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
    The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder.

    If the cylinder is on the first floor or in the loft of a bungalow and the pipework from stove to cylinder can constantly rise to the cylinder then you have a working system.

    If not your plumber would need to move the cylinder to above the stove and adapt extend the pipework to oil boiler etc.

    Only a site visit can establish these points.

    Stove Fan:)
    Hi stove fan,

    I will de arranging a site visit. A local stores offer a survey for 3o euro which I'll be ahappy to pay for to get it right.

    On your point
    "The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
    The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder."

    I am in a bungalow .The cylinder is in the hot-press, raised up around 1 metre, with room to rise another couple of feet if required.
    My idea on how this might work is that, the stove would be at ground level, the pipes would comes out the back, go down a couple of feet into the ground, travel along under the floor to the hot press and rise up the 1 metre or so to the cylinder.
    Is this a problem in terms of a constant rise to the cylinder ? Can I not go down from the stove to put the pipework into the ground to travel back to the cylinder ? or do the pipes have to travel at least horizontally from the stove to the hot press before rising to the cylinder ?

    Thanks.


  • #1349
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    mylomac wrote: »
    Hi stove fan,

    I will de arranging a site visit. A local stores offer a survey for 3o euro which I'll be ahappy to pay for to get it right.

    On your point
    "The pipework to the cylinder can't go up from stove along and down to the cylinder, this would cut off the gravity flow.
    The flow pipework to the cylinder should canstantly rise to get gravity circulation to the cylinder."

    I am in a bungalow .The cylinder is in the hot-press, raised up around 1 metre, with room to rise another couple of feet if required.
    My idea on how this might work is that, the stove would be at ground level, the pipes would comes out the back, go down a couple of feet into the ground, travel along under the floor to the hot press and rise up the 1 metre or so to the cylinder.
    Is this a problem in terms of a constant rise to the cylinder ? Can I not go down from the stove to put the pipework into the ground to travel back to the cylinder ? or do the pipes have to travel at least horizontally from the stove to the hot press before rising to the cylinder ?

    Thanks.

    Yes, they can either run horizontally but rising slightly then vertical or just run vertical from the stove. Ie always rising, no dips to cut off the gravity flow.

    Running the pipes down from the stove and under the floor across the room wouldn't allow gravity circulation. It wouldn't have any means of dissipating the heat in the backboiler in the event of the pump not running due to a powercut and so the water inside would boil.

    If you have the height in the loft best to move/raise the cylinder and cold water tank into it. At least then you can run gravity pipework up into the loft and across to the cylinder. The flow pipe can then rise to the top cylinder coil. The return slightly ralling back to the stove.

    This is how I plumbed mine. A gravity rad is in the same room as the stove and the hot flow comes from the attic drops down to the rad all in 3/4 inch copper and then runs under the wooden floor and tees into the return on the back of the boiler stove.

    I am a plumber by trade, used to install Worcester gas combi boilers and heating systems a few years ago now.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #1350
    MrsG09
    Registered Users Posts: 113 ✭✭MrsG09


    Hi there,
    I am hoping to get a stove with boiler installed in our house, currently have gas heating but open plan kitchen is cold all the time.
    Could anyone recommend a surveyor or installer in south Dublin I could contact to price for me?

    Thank you


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  • #1351
    Katie OS
    Registered Users Posts: 15 ✭Katie OS


    Hi Stove Fan, Am looking at getting a boiler stove installed to run with my oil central heating. Live in a bungalow. Is this going to be a major job? Looking at wainsford 18kw boiler stove? Any recommendations or have you had any negative remarks re wainsford?
    Totally headwreaked looking at all the different stoves. Thanks for any advice you can give
    Katie OS


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