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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

paddy147

The amount of threads getting posted each day about stoves is unreal and taking away from other plumbing issues.

Can I suggest to the members and also the mods a dedicated "sticky" thread about stoves and nothing else.

Thanks.:)

Hi Folks. This sticky has been suggested by a regular poster and contributed to quite well. It seems to have generated a lot of interest. While advertising is not permitted under forum charter a balanced view of multiple suppliers is allowed. The rule of thumb is if you are unsure just ask. But keeping it simple and discussing the techanical details of multiple suppliers will be safe. Keep pricing out of the thread and only reply if requested to by PM -Personal message. An instant permant ban will result for breach of charter on advertising.

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rpmcs

Heat design are not s bad company.
But stovax would be miles above

virgo69

Hi I have a heat design insert stove so not exactly what you are looking for. I did have some problems getting decent heat from it in the beginning but I have to say Heat Designs customer service was excellent. The guy rang everyday going through different fuel mixes and settings until I got it working efficiently and was on the verge of coming out to inspect it free of charge. So from a service side I would recommend and they seem to stand over their products once you have used an installer from their list.

bloob

Hi,

We're looking at two options for a cassette stove: HeatDesign Vitae 9kw versus Stovax Riva 55 8kw.

Does anyone have any experience of either or both of these?

We're doing our own research also, through a few contacts, but it would be great if anyone here had any thoughts or opinions.

Thanks!

rpmcs

No need to be sorry. Maybe I should be apologising.
It's just if you get info from two companys and they conflict well then you should do research to verify if this is just sales crap or if it is good workman's ship or proper advice to stand over home insurance.

Yes as I said it is in building regulations...

But it's again second/third hand info...

If you believe every thing that is said without doing some research yourself,
well I'd be afraid you will be leaving yourself open to fraud or some poor works and possibly, if you had an issue down the road that you find your home insurance is invalid.

Some things are regarded as good practice.
But others are in black and white on regulations.
So what annoyed me in first post was....

As first company advised you that they would not leave less than 8 inches on either side.
Ok so you thought why is this?

And if you asked and they told you building regs are clear on this, would your next option not be to ask them to send you link or point you to where this is stated.

Then you would not be relying on "rpmcs from boards.ie told me"

And then for you it would be an easy decision.

I could be some idiot that told you "nah it fine, sure all I have is 4 inches on mine for the last twenty years and not a bother"

But in any case if I came across as I was having a go at you it's not what I was doing. But apologies if I offended.

bloob

Thanks for your reply rpcms,

Apologies if my question offended, I was confused as to why I might get two very different opinions from experts, and wondered if there was something I was missing.

But you did actually answer my question quite clearly in the end, so I appreciate that.

pippip

rpmcs wrote: »

Why you come on to a forum looking for more opinions is questionable?
You have got two already.

So the only way to actually get an answer is ask why one won't do as you hoped?

Fist one is correct and to prove have a look at building regs.

It states you need 200mm each side as pillars minimum and of course you need the 150mm each side of stove.
So it not hard worked out .
Second company just want the work or have not done any training or even read the building regulations.

They came on here looking for help clarifying which is correct. To which you answered....thanks.
No need for the attitude and accusations towards them, especially to new members.

rpmcs

Why you come on to a forum looking for more opinions is questionable?
You have got two already.

So the only way to actually get an answer is ask why one won't do as you hoped?

Fist one is correct and to prove have a look at building regs.

It states you need 200mm each side as pillars minimum and of course you need the 150mm each side of stove.
So it not hard worked out .
Second company just want the work or have not done any training or even read the building regulations.

bloob

Hello,

New to Boards, so hopefully I do this right!

We're having a gas fire decommisioned and removed and a wood burning stove installed. I had my heart set on having the fireplace dug out and a chamber created for a freestanding stove, so that part of the flue is visible at the top. I've had two quotes so far (both came and visited the house).

One (very long established company) said that the chimney breast (47 inches) was too narrow to excavate and create a chamber wide enough. That there needed to be 8" on each side of the breast remaining plus 6" on each side of the stove, leaving only 19" for the stove, and since we need at least an 8KW for the room, that we don't have enough room for it. So we'd need to get an insert or cassette stove instead.

The second (established for a shorter period of time but well known) company said they could do the chamber and freestanding no problem.

I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas why we would get such differing opinions from two well known installers?

Thanks!

BarryD

meridian74 wrote: »

Hi
I am planning on installing a wood burning stove into a bungalow that should heat an open plan sitting room, dining room and kitchen area an no back boiler. I am looking at the more contemporary designs and have come across the Heritage Belvedere. 15KW output and sold from Right Price Tiles. It seems the most reasonably prices ca€1650-€1700 plus flue etc.
Does anybody have any experience with these stoves? Any alternative recommendations? I have seen Dovre Astroline and Nordpeis Duo 1 as well but more expensive.

No experience of them but look nice alright and should throw out plenty of heat with that free standing type design, though probably a source of danger too in terms of kids/people stumbling against it. Do keep in mind that wood on it's own will not burn as hot as a mix of coal & wood. You'll go through a fair bit of firewood if the firebox is large.

meridian74

Hi
I am planning on installing a wood burning stove into a bungalow that should heat an open plan sitting room, dining room and kitchen area an no back boiler. I am looking at the more contemporary designs and have come across the Heritage Belvedere. 15KW output and sold from Right Price Tiles. It seems the most reasonably prices ca€1650-€1700 plus flue etc.
Does anybody have any experience with these stoves? Any alternative recommendations? I have seen Dovre Astroline and Nordpeis Duo 1 as well but more expensive.

ELBAOS

Hi Guys

Just wondering has any1 any thoughts/reviews on these?? I see alot of reviews against back boilers so trying to decide will i bother with them so!have roughly 15 rads in house but could zone it maybe so the draw from stove wouldn't be as much does that make sense? I wanted double sided to do large open plan kitchen/living area (kitchen 8.5m x4.6 /living area 5.6x4.8). Will have oil central heating along with MHRV.

boru-600b-insert-double-sided-boiler-stove

WOODFIRE RX DS DOUBLE SIDED INSET BOILER STOVES

Thanks

ELBAOS

gaillimh

Hi.
Anybody got any experience of the Henley Thames slimline 8kwh stove?
Thinking of getting this instead of the Henley Achill 6.6 kWh insert in my sitting room which is 27'6" x 14'9".

Cheers for any opinions

BarraOG

Hi,

I'm looking for a Multi-fuel, Non-boiler 4kW Stove for our sitting room and I'm wondering if a Cassette Stove is a sensible solution. I like the idea of avoiding having to choose and pay for a mantlepiece but I'm wondering if this saving offsets the cost of placing the stove higher up than the current opening:

Cavity dimensions: 50cm(width)*35cm(depth)*82cm(height)

Is it a major operation to relocate the opening? How expensive roughly speaking might it be to install compared to installing an insert or freestanding stove?

Fell free to PM any specific model recommendations as I'm struggling to find 4kW stoves.

Thanks very much,

Barra

ike

The Last Beep wrote: »

I'm currently having a chimney breast opened up to make room for a Henley Cambridge 7.5kW free standing stove. My original plan was to put in bricks behind he stove and down the two sides and then have wooden beam as the mantle above the stove. Obviously I had in my mind that with the beam being combustible material I need certain clearance from the top of the stove to it but today the installers have said that they wouldn't install a stove if here was a wooden beam there at all.

That makes sense to me and I'm happy to try and find a stone alternative but I'd now concerned about how clearance I need to leave all around the stove, would anyone have experience with this and know what the recommendations are or clearance at sides, back and above to non-combustible materials?

I'm waiting on my builder to come and make a start on ours, So I'd be interest to hear how you got on..

dathi

Joe1919 wrote: »

There is a general minimum clearance recommendation for non-boiler stoves of 150mm (6 inches) at sides and top, and 50mm (2 inches) at rear from non-combustibles (solid stone , brick, concrete block etc.) materials that are at least 75mm (3 inches) thick.

A greater clearance is desirable (imo), especially on top, to allow more heat to get away from stove and into room, as the top and sides of the stove get very hot and radiate a lot of heat, especially when burning coal.

http://www.environ.ie/sites/default/files/migrated-files/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad%2C37240%2Cen.pdf
page 27 its 300mm from top not 150mm

rpmcs

Just looked at henlys manual for the 7.5 Cambridge and they appear to state 800mm behind to combustibles and 700mm each side...
Don't seem to state above so maybe you
Need them to email you this clearly.

Don't take persons verbal on phone..
Lots of company's will verbally tell you what you want to hear on phone but in email it's more legal.

Just my thoughts anyhoo.

rpmcs

Not correct.
Building regs say minimum to combustibles (ie wooden beam)
Is 300mm or if manufacturer recommends greater to use higher distance.
So for instance if your stove has been tested to have timber closer ...say 250mm ...by manufacturer in certifications in testing,
you still have to adhere to building regs of 300 mm.

But say stove certification says 450mm
Well then you have to go to this figure to comply with building regs .

Reason for this is simple.

To get CE cert all stove get tested by independent body.
In this testing they measure heat transferred.. (above, sides and back) from stoves .
So a distance stated is when they reach a point away from stove where the temperature does not reach above a certain point.
It's not just plucked out of thin air and should be taken seriously.

So if you put a beam or wooden mantle in below this distance there is a real chance it could get hot enough to go on fire.
And in my opinion not many insurance companys will stand over this, so you may find you invalidate that too if not adhered too.

Joe1919

The Last Beep wrote: »

I'm currently having a chimney breast opened up to make room for a Henley Cambridge 7.5kW free standing stove. My original plan was to put in bricks behind he stove and down the two sides and then have wooden beam as the mantle above the stove. Obviously I had in my mind that with the beam being combustible material I need certain clearance from the top of the stove to it but today the installers have said that they wouldn't install a stove if here was a wooden beam there at all.

That makes sense to me and I'm happy to try and find a stone alternative but I'd now concerned about how clearance I need to leave all around the stove, would anyone have experience with this and know what the recommendations are or clearance at sides, back and above to non-combustible materials?

There is a general minimum clearance recommendation for non-boiler stoves of 150mm (6 inches) at sides and top, and 50mm (2 inches) at rear from non-combustibles (solid stone , brick, concrete block etc.) materials that are at least 75mm (3 inches) thick.

A greater clearance is desirable (imo), especially on top, to allow more heat to get away from stove and into room, as the top and sides of the stove get very hot and radiate a lot of heat, especially when burning coal.

The Last Beep

I'm currently having a chimney breast opened up to make room for a Henley Cambridge 7.5kW free standing stove. My original plan was to put in bricks behind he stove and down the two sides and then have wooden beam as the mantle above the stove. Obviously I had in my mind that with the beam being combustible material I need certain clearance from the top of the stove to it but today the installers have said that they wouldn't install a stove if here was a wooden beam there at all.

That makes sense to me and I'm happy to try and find a stone alternative but I'd now concerned about how clearance I need to leave all around the stove, would anyone have experience with this and know what the recommendations are or clearance at sides, back and above to non-combustible materials?

Kash

The original owners of this house painted around their furniture rather than move it, and everything is sited strangely (light switches on far walls rather than near the door etc.) so my faith in anything being planned properly is not very high

We have since improved insulation and so on, but as our new extension is in progress, I need to make a call on whether we put radiators linked up to the existing system in each room, or go with something else. The existing radiators only heat half way down in any case, so I'll have to see what the plumber says.

BarryD

Sure, what it hinges on I guess, is whether the original installer figured out the heat required to heat the present rooms to a certain temperature and sized stove boiler etc to suit? Poster seems to think not, who knows. I'm sure they'll get good advice before proceeding. He/ she could also improve insulation, draught proofing in existing rooms so they require less heat output too.

Wearb

Have it your own way then. I am not going to get into the finer details of it all. Agree in one sentence, disagree in another. Whole paragraph is too confusing for me.

BarryD

Wearb wrote: »

That is totally flawed logic. Yes there will be less water circulating, but then there will be less heat distributed. If what you are saying was correct, we could all halve the size of our rads without any consequences.

Not really if I follow the poster correctly - if he has say x litres circulating around his present system and he reduces the sizes of his present rads and inserts new ones to bring it back up to x litres, then little is lost except in the longer pipe runs? Sure, he'll have less heat output to his present rooms for the amount of fuel that he's burning up to now but that seems to be accepted.

Wearb

That is totally flawed logic. Yes there will be less water circulating, but then there will be less heat distributed. If what you are saying was correct, we could all halve the size of our rads without any consequences.

Kash

Wearb wrote: »

If it has been correctly sized in the first place, reducing its size will mean that it will not be able to bring room up to temp.

That's the thing, I don't think they have ever been correctly sized - all rads are the same size regardless of the room size, the largest room actually has the only single :rolleyes:

BarryD wrote: »

There'd be less water circulating then in the existing part of the house, so scope for distributing more to new part.

That is my logic too. I'll obviously talk to my plumber, but I like to know a little about the topic before I jump in.

BarryD

Wearb wrote: »

Putting in smaller rads won't work. If it has been correctly sized in the first place, reducing its size will mean that it will not be able to bring room up to temp.

Surely reducing the size of the existing rads may help? Putting in single rather than double etc. There'd be less water circulating then in the existing part of the house, so scope for distributing more to new part. Longer pipe run and circuit though. Though less heat output into existing rooms as you say.

Cathellen

I have a Stanley lismore stove suppoosed to heat room and radiators. I have it for three years and have been back and forth to stanley trying to get it to work. There is very very litle heat from the stove to the room and the radiators at best are on the upper side of warm...not hot. Stanley are saying it has to be an installation problem I had this checked but having it checked again on their advice. We put plenty of fuel in it . I don't know where the heat is going. The water in the tap is not hot either only warm. i am so dissappointed with it . I have never seen any review from anyone on this stove. Any suggestions what it might be if installation proves ok??

Wearb

Putting in smaller rads won't work. If it has been correctly sized in the first place, reducing its size will mean that it will not be able to bring room up to temp.

Kash

Wearb wrote: »

You need to find the boiler output of your stove. Then measure your existing rads and get onto a rad makers site so that you can work out the output of your existing rads. Then you will be able to workout if you have any spare capacity.
In any case, you are unlikely to have all your rads on at the same time.

The output of the stove is 14kw, but only 9 of that goes to the water/rads. Assuming I don't have existing capacity, would simply replacing existing rads with smaller versions (or singles) free up some capacity to use in the new rooms?