nav[aria-label="Primary Navigation"] { padding: 0; & ul { list-style: none; width: 100%; display: flex; flex-direction: row; justify-content: start; align-items: start; gap: 30px; padding: 0; & li { margin: 0; } & ul li { list-style: none; } } }

Child Item

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

paddy147

The amount of threads getting posted each day about stoves is unreal and taking away from other plumbing issues.

Can I suggest to the members and also the mods a dedicated "sticky" thread about stoves and nothing else.

Thanks.:)

Hi Folks. This sticky has been suggested by a regular poster and contributed to quite well. It seems to have generated a lot of interest. While advertising is not permitted under forum charter a balanced view of multiple suppliers is allowed. The rule of thumb is if you are unsure just ask. But keeping it simple and discussing the techanical details of multiple suppliers will be safe. Keep pricing out of the thread and only reply if requested to by PM -Personal message. An instant permant ban will result for breach of charter on advertising.

Find more posts tagged with

Quick Links

Comments

BarryD

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Try mixing coal and/or anthracite in with your turf and maybe the odd bit of firewood. It's all about carbon content I think - highest anthracite, to coal, to firewood, to turf which has the least. Put it another way, if you get a thick bog/ swamp and compress it under a huge weight of overlying rock, you'll eventually get coal

CHOPS01

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

If your burning turf only I would see that being your problem.Any stove or insert is quoting output values based on coal and seasoned dry wood.
Turf is fine but doesn't have the calorific value of timber and coal it also produces a lot more ash.
I'd suggest you get a bag of good smokeless coal and some hardwood blocks and see how it goes then.

RebelButtMunch

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Is there a device that moves the grate to let the ash fall through?
Also, maybe try coal, it burns hotter and depending on the type, it can have a lot less ash.

dathi

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output . Bunring good dry turf.

your stove is 17 kw and your burning turf your pierce stove is 75% effecient

turf has 3.6 kwh per kilo so 3.6kwh x 0.75 (effeciency) =2.7. devide the 17 kw output of your stove by 2.7 to change it into kilos of turf =6.29kg so to reach the 17 kwh output of your stove you would have to burn 6.29 kg of turf per hour
wood has 5.3kwh per kilo so 17 / (5.3x0.75) =4.25kg of wood per hour
coal has 7.5 kwh per kilo so 17 / (7.5 x0.75) =3 kg of coal per hour

RebelButtMunch

dathi wrote: »

your stove is 17 kw and your burning turf your pierce stove is 75% effecient

turf has 3.6 kwh per kilo so 3.6kwh x 0.75 (effeciency) =2.7. devide the 17 kw output of your stove by 2.7 to change it into kilos of turf =6.29kg so to reach the 17 kwh output of your stove you would have to burn 6.29 kg of turf per hour
wood has 5.3kwh per kilo so 17 / (5.3x0.75) =4.25kg of wood per hour
coal has 7.5 kwh per kilo so 17 / (7.5 x0.75) =3 kg of coal per hour

Great explanation! I suppose I never thought about it that the stated output of the stove is for when its burning 'to the max' whatever is in there.

RebelButtMunch

RebelButtMunch wrote: »

Hi

The stove installers surrounded our inset stove with vermiculite 'Skamolex' board on the sides and back of the empty fireplace. Then somebody (not me ) painted the board with the same vinyl paint that's on the chimney breast.

Now when the stove gets hot, there is a horrible chemical tippex-like stink. I'm reasonably sure it's the paint. A:its not heat resistant, B: the smell never happened before it was painted.

Now Im wondering what to do. I already have bought three new skamolex boards, but I was thinking of my options

1: Get a heat gun and try to remove the paint from the skamolex board.
2: Get a stove installer in, and re-do the job. Problem with that is, the fireplace was plastered after the stove was installed. Replacing the board and touching up the plaster, just wouldnt look right

Advice appreciated!

To follow up on this one. I got a heat gun from Argos and softened the paint. Then used a scraper to scrape it off, along with a good couple of milimeters of the skamolex board. I couldnt get all the way around the back with the gun but the smell has gone now thankfully

Lucyfur

I have questions. And I know NOTHING about stoves. At all.

I am hoping to put in a double sided stove and back boiler to heat a sitting room that is 18x15 and an open plan kitchen/diner that is 14x27sunroom that is 12x12.

There are 12 radiators in the house. What kind of outage? wattage? Stove would I need? Will it heat the whole house? And, can anyone tell me how horribly messy it will be to put in a back boiler? The hot water tank is upstairs but pipes lead down to a little cloakroom downstairs.

Skippy along

Any thoughts on the Arizona tucson insert stove can't find much info on it i have a price got which suits my budget any advice thanks

http://www.bpmsupplies.ie/tusconstove.html

Basq

Father got some dried wood from DoneDeal and they turned out to be far more moist than expected.. he's learned his lesson and picked up a Wood Moisture Meter but the build up of thick black creosote inside the stove is pretty dreadful.

Anyone recommend something which may help lift this? There seems to be a few things like those firelogs but they're more aimed at build up in the flue etc.

leanbh

This post has been deleted.

MenloPete

I have a N-M Harmony stove with boiler. I am trying to clean out the soot internally. Just wondering if any of you are familiar with this model and can offer advice.
Access is through a lid on the top and then a plate can be removed. The back of the boiler is revealed, but it slopes down into a quite narrow V shape which is closed at the bottom. It appears to have an opening on either side at the bottom of this V, but I can't figure out how this is accessed.
The only option appears to be hoovering it out from the top, but I would have thought there would be access to the back of the boiler from underneath.
Even cleaning the sides of the boiler is extremely difficult. Are there special tools for this?
Any help anyone?

ondarack

would anyone have any ideas/pictures of a stone or modern fireplace to replace this? The fireplace is behind the timber on the left,I would like to fit a stove in there and a cavity to the right to store timber. Its a small room and im thinking of retrofitting to suit a back boiler stove to disperse the heat as i've been in small rooms before and found them too warm even though the stove was small and throttled down

murph226

Can someone please advise on what way to have the stove vents once it's up and going?

I have vents on the lower parts of the doors and more vents on the top just under the lid.

I'm not 100% sure whether I should have them both open?

RebelButtMunch

murph226 wrote: »

Can someone please advise on what way to have the stove vents once it's up and going?

I have vents on the lower parts of the doors and more vents on the top just under the lid.

I'm not 100% sure whether I should have them both open?

Depends on what blaze level you want.
Once my fire is established I close both vents to reduce the flame and reduce the amount of warm air being lost up the chimney

Bigcheeze

murph226 wrote: »

Can someone please advise on what way to have the stove vents once it's up and going?

I have vents on the lower parts of the doors and more vents on the top just under the lid.

I'm not 100% sure whether I should have them both open?

what's the stove and what do the instructions say ?

I have a Stovax wood burner and once it's hot, I close the bottom air vents and keep the top "air wash" vents more or less fully open.

Reedsie

Stove is getting through a lot of fuel when it's very windy. Even with the vents closed there seems to be a fairly strong 'pull' on it. When it's not windy the fuel just sits there burning nice and calmly for hours (with vents closed).

Any ideas? Is a cowl the solution?

Reedsie

ondarack

Hello I hope someone can advise me, I'm just after getting a quote to fit a lentil,open up a fireplace,centre it and fit stove and liner, it is itemised below. To be honest I got a shock with the price if it, is it me or does it seem a bit much?

Modern Dublin Fireplace €1450
Stovax Stockton 5 €790
Chamber Granite €250
Fitting €550
High Grade Chimney Pack & Pipe €740
Stone Cladding €150
1 Vent 2 Alarms €160
Remove existing chimney structure
dugout for stove and reinstall structural
lentils including material €1200

Total €5290

rpmcs

To be honest taking out a lintel is a big job.
So in my opinion the quote looks about right.

Bigcheeze

ondarack wrote: »

Hello I hope someone can advise me, I'm just after getting a quote to fit a lentil,open up a fireplace,centre it and fit stove and liner, it is itemised below. To be honest I got a shock with the price if it, is it me or does it seem a bit much?

Modern Dublin Fireplace €1450
Stovax Stockton 5 €790
Chamber Granite €250
Fitting €550
High Grade Chimney Pack & Pipe €740
Stone Cladding €150
1 Vent 2 Alarms €160
Remove existing chimney structure
dugout for stove and reinstall structural
lentils including material €1200

Total €5290

It's a lot of work. Liner sounds expensive and it's debatable if you need it but some suppliers always fit them and some test if they are needed. Is it an option to design the opening without the fireplace surround?

quazzy

ondarack wrote: »

Hello I hope someone can advise me, I'm just after getting a quote to fit a lentil,open up a fireplace,centre it and fit stove and liner, it is itemised below. To be honest I got a shock with the price if it, is it me or does it seem a bit much?

Modern Dublin Fireplace €1450
Stovax Stockton 5 €790
Chamber Granite €250
Fitting €550
High Grade Chimney Pack & Pipe €740
Stone Cladding €150
1 Vent 2 Alarms €160
Remove existing chimney structure
dugout for stove and reinstall structural
lentils including material €1200

Total €5290

I got something similar in my home.
I had an existing open fireplace with wooden surround.
Removed everything, raised lindel to fit a freestanding stove.
I got a new wooden mantel and stone cladding.
Don't think I paid that much but it was a big job - 2 lads working for about 10 or 12 hours a day for 3 days. If you're interested in the breakdown, PM me and I can look up my emails etc... for detailed pricing.

ondarack

Thanks for the replies. I understand that there was a nice bit of labour involved but after speaking with the supplier were after negotiating a price of 4800 so I think i'm happy enough to go ahead at that. Unfortunately the old fireplace was really outdated and was severely off centre due to another fireplace behind the wall. There are pictures below of both fireplaces, i'll be blocking up the one in the kitchen.

gerfmurphy

I am Considering upgrading my esse 350 insert. It never really fulfilled the supposed 8kw output.

My wife is keen on the stovax riva 66 or 76
Its very expensive,is their an alternative in the same design cheaper?
The room is pretty modern so older fashioned design would look a bit out.
I have a fitter calling tonight to see about whats needed output wise but an online calculator tells me about 11kw plus is needed.
Would anyone have a suggestion of something nice, modern with a large glass that may suit?

BeepBeep67

gerfmurphy wrote: »

I am Considering upgrading my esse 350 insert. It never really fulfilled the supposed 8kw output.

My wife is keen on the stovax riva 66 or 76
Its very expensive,is their an alternative in the same design cheaper?
The room is pretty modern so older fashioned design would look a bit out.
I have a fitter calling tonight to see about whats needed output wise but an online calculator tells me about 11kw plus is needed.
Would anyone have a suggestion of something nice, modern with a large glass that may suit?

What's your budget?
This was a bit on the pricey side, but we have a large open plan room at the back of the house (about 90 m2).
It's only a wood burner, but with good quality kiln dried wood, we have to open the sitting room and hall door to let the heat circulate.

12366244_10207262620598134_7282866130157287990_n.jpg?oh=16ab6b717bdd2d53cf37167500ce9157&oe=57644D34

12366244_10207262620598134_7282866130157287990_n.jpg?oh=16ab6b717bdd2d53cf37167500ce9157&oe=57644D34

It's a Thorma Andorra

Edit: Just re read and it's an inset - oppsie

gerfmurphy

Just to clarify I hope to have a free standing stove.
The thorma looks lovely
But the fireplace is on a step that runs across the room about 18inch high so a standing stove would be too high
Room is approx 50m2 with a vaulted ceiling loads of windows one door to the outside and double doors to the kitchen. 3 exterior walls

Also if anyone can pm me a good trustworthy fitters number around navan kells area that would be great

DOBK

Hi all,
I just had a Henley Achill 21Kw inert boiler stove installed. Its in a few days and we are disappointed with the heat out of it, we find we have to run it with the damper open to get enough heat but then it flies through the fuel (hardwood logs). Anyone have one or know anything about them?
Thanks for any info

sdm

I have an Aarrow Becton 11kw in the kitchen but it only heats the kitchen, we have oil as well. But when I opened up the attic what did I do. Well I looked at a stove in the end room with stairs leading to attic 1'000sq ft. I looked at the cost of a decent stove bones of 2k and then the cost of all the piping and knocking the wall through €€€€'s. So I saw an ad for 6.5kw Kerosene heater new and delivered for 180€. It certainly does the business and the heat is as much as you would need then turn it off. Kerosene delivered overnight from Newbridge.

So all I am saying is that choose carefully what you need your heater for and what your budget is. People in Asia and parts of Spain, Portugal and Italy use these heaters all the time and do not use central heating at all. So I have a perfectly warm studio space for 180€ + 30€for the delivered oil (not household heating oil).

mrtom

Does anyone out there have the Fireline FX5W stove ?

http://www.fireplacesuperstore.com/p/8953587/fireline-fx5w-fp5w-multi-fuel-stove.html

Joe1919

DOBK wrote: »

Hi all,
I just had a Henley Achill 21Kw inert boiler stove installed. Its in a few days and we are disappointed with the heat out of it, we find we have to run it with the damper open to get enough heat but then it flies through the fuel (hardwood logs). Anyone have one or know anything about them?
Thanks for any info

I dont have experience of that particular stove. However, I can see a problem. Your 21kw maximum stove give 15.9 kw to water and 5.1 kw to room if ran flat out at maximum. However, very few people run there stove at max and typically stoves give an average of about half there maximum with a moderate amount of stoking/burning. (A 20kw stove ran at max would burn a bale of briquetts every 2 hours).
So, typically your stove if used moderately is only outputting about 2.5 kw to room, which is not enough.

The solution......I have seen someone in desperation putting red bricks in grate at back of stove to encourage more heat to room and less to water and to save fuel. I have also seen person fitting bigger radiator in room with stove as stove heat output alone was not sufficient and this worked ok for them.

DOBK

Hi Joe, Thanks for reply.
I think I've made a major mistake going for this stove, as you say there is not enough Kw going to the room, there are two rads in the same room but they don't get very hot either unless we open up the damper and lash in the fuel. TBH I don't know where all the heat is going...