Detailing chat

Gordy6040 wrote: »

Hi Guys
Looking at the CG Hyper Coat here
Some of my trim is pretty faded and also has been contaminated with wax. Would this remove the wax and bring it back to shiny perfection? Or, would it just cover the wax and have to be applied again 3 weeks latter like most of those back to black type products?

Cheers
G

Firstly you will need to remove the wax marks - APC might do it, but IPA or a wipedown product such as CarPro Eraser might be needed.
The CG's G6 Hyper Coat will only cover the wax, not remove it. It will only last a few weeks. If you are looking for a permanent treatment, CarPro DLUX is durable for about a year with good preparation.

Mc Love wrote: »

Yep that's what I use and find it the best

Do you get yours from Detailing Shed also? I think they're the only suppliers of it in Ireland.

Mc Love

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Do you get yours from Detailing Shed also? I think they're the only suppliers of it in Ireland.

Yes, whenever I can buy all my detailing supplies from Detailing Shed as they are a great resource for all things of that nature and even offer advice on how to use the products

fred funk }{

Have to agree, Detailing Shed are top notch. Customer service us second to none too.

Foxhole Norman

I also concur, received a few things this morning after only ordering yesterday, that Dry Me Crazy towel is amazing, Stripper Scent isn't bad either :pac:

Well lads, won't start a new thread for this (or maybe I should). I bought an orbital polisher and some pads to tackle my horribly worn paint. Anyone have any advice or tips for me? Product recommendations would be great too, at the moment I have Meguiars Ultimate Compound and some Autoglym polish but I realise these might not be the best for the job.

The Autoglym is NOT a polish for correction, only for improving gloss short-term.

For BMW paint, you'd be best off with Menzerna FG400/FG500 polishes. They are German-made for German paint. I used them on mine originally and they did an excellent job. For single stage polishing after the main correction I switched to Chemical Guys V36 and V38.

Also get a few orange cutting pads and black finishing pads from Detailing Shed.

edburg

That and take your time, start slow with least abrasive polish.

He's going to be using a D/A on German paint....no need for alarm :P

It's actually not a D/A, I meant to say rotary, not orbital. Anything specific to be aware of with that? RPM etc?

Cheers for the product advice MM, I'll add it to my list, along with Auto Wheels from DS. I must try get some pictures of the paint, it really is in terrible nick so I'm thinking whatever I do will be an improvement. Question on the pads you advised. Are the colours universal for each level of abrasiveness? So I'm free to choose any of the orange and black pads on DS website? The polisher I bought came with red, blue and white pads but I've no idea how abrasive each one is so I'm hesitant to use them.

Id certainly look at changing your polishes - Wolf's Chemicals, Chemical Guys, Menzerna, Scholl Concepts are names what would be leaders in polishes. CarPro Fixer polish is one worth looking at also. It covers all stages of polishing, except the very last finishing/jeweling step...all you have to do is change the pad to change the amount of cutting ability.

BMW paint, as said, is very hard, and correction will be slow with a Dual Action polisher. If you arent getting where you want to with it, you can go for Microfiber pads, as these generate a bit more heat and correction.

Ahh, so rotary....you will need to be more careful; starting from a pad and polish combo that has low cutting ability, test an area, and move up the cutting scale until you find a combo that is giving good results. Keep the machine moving as they generate a lot of heat. Slow and steady, no need to move it back and forth too fast as it will leave holograms.... YouTube some video on the techniques...also, remember, its a daily drive; dont go chasing every mark on the car, because it will lead you to risking the clear coat if you try getting perfection!

dorgasm wrote: »

The polisher I bought came with red, blue and white pads but I've no idea how abrasive each one is so I'm hesitant to use them.

No, colours do no represent the same cutting ability from different manufacturers. If you dont know what make they are, they only way to tell what cut they have is to compare the feel of them; the harder the foam, the more cut it will have.

If it's a rotary polisher, you do need to be careful. If this is your first time polishing, I would advise swapping it for a D/A.

I don't think the colours are universal. I use Chemical Guys pads and in that range, the orange is the cutting pad and the black is the finishing/jewelling pad. You don't really need any of the other pads.

I have a yellow cutting pad which is above the orange. Haven't had a chance to use it yet though.

Great stuff lads, all new info for me

I might actually start a thread later so I don't hog the chat thread. But for now, the pads I'll order in that case are this for heavy cutting and this for finishing. I'll look into more product reviews on what ye've suggested before making a final decision. I have a few big long scratches to sort beforehand anyway, might be a question for the thread when I start it!

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

If it's a rotary polisher, you do need to be careful. If this is your first time polishing, I would advise swapping it for a D/A.

I don't think the colours are universal. I use Chemical Guys pads and in that range, the orange is the cutting pad and the black is the finishing/jewelling pad. You don't really need any of the other pads.

I have a yellow cutting pad which is above the orange. Haven't had a chance to use it yet though.

I really don't think the DA is worth the investment for my car. It's nothing special and the paint is so badly scratched and damaged that only a professional paint correction would bring it fully back to life. I'm just trying to do the best with what I have and maybe learn a thing or two about paint correction and polishing

I'm going to order the orange and black chemical guys pads that I linked to in my previous post, should do the job for me.

If you are using it for the first time; and you are only buying 2 pads, Id go for something mid range on the cutting scale - maybe white and black....remove some of the risk, while you are learning and getting the feel for it. Those two pads will still do a very impressive job.
Its better to repeat and area two or three times with a lower cutting pad, than risk striking through with one pass on a heavy cutting pad. Even one pass on a finishing polish, and finishing pad, will do wonders on a car that is as poor as you say....it will restore a serious about of depth and shine, and will look great from a few feet away....though, swirls will remain, the transformation will be impressive!

Curran wrote: »

If you are using it for the first time; and you are only buying 2 pads, Id go for something mid range on the cutting scale - maybe white and black....remove some of the risk, while you are learning and getting the feel for it. Those two pads will still do a very impressive job.
Its better to repeat and area two or three times with a lower cutting pad, than risk striking through with one pass on a heavy cutting pad. Even one pass on a finishing polish, and finishing pad, will do wonders on a car that is as poor as you say....it will restore a serious about of depth and shine, and will look great from a few feet away....though, swirls will remain, the transformation will be impressive!

Thanks again, I'll go for the white and black hex pads so. I'm still expecting plenty of swirls afterwards but a shine from a few feet away is perfect for me. I've been wondering about the smaller hard to reach spots and all that on my car. Places like around the front grilles and the boot spoiler. What's the best technique to use for making sure I don't cut the paint down too much? My instinct would be to use the edge of the polishing pad but I've read that that's a big no no?

You dont want to use the pads in any way other than totally flat, if possible, and its not always possible. On large panels, certainly keep it totally flat. Lean on the side of the pad will result in possible holograms, or trails of where you went back and forth with the polisher.

For tighter areas, you can get a smaller backing plate and smaller pads. So when doing wing mirrors, bumpers, the corners of panels, etc, you can use it then. There are some even harder to reach areas, for example, the reg plate on the boot of some cars, that area is a lower height, and you need an extension bar, to make a wider gap between the backing plate and the actual machine, but its rarely needed. For really hard to get to areas such as these, its best to just accept you cant get in there, and give it a bit of a hand polish...if its that hard to reach, its not going to be overly noticeable that you didnt machine polish it!

Fiesta

A quick question, what cloths do you use for the glass?

I've used blue tissue roll, lots of microfibres, and they all leave some amount of lint.

What can I use to avoid lint?

punisher5112

Fiesta wrote: »

A quick question, what cloths do you use for the glass?

I've used blue tissue roll, lots of microfibres, and they all leave some amount of lint.

What can I use to avoid lint?

Depends on products your using.

I clean off using windolean then use auto glym or similar and apply with applicator and then use micro fibre.

fred funk }{

After finding myself in this forum a while ago when I had literally no interest in detailing, I decided to give the car a bit more TLC so I made an order from Detailing Shed. I got a Mitt, Shampoo, Clay bar (never heard of one until I read about them in here), tyre dressing, Wax and one or two other bits a pieces.

Yesterday was the first day I used my new gear on the car. Now I normally kept the car fairly clean so didn't notice much of a difference after the first wash but the difference the clay bar made was unreal, the paint was so smooth and the amount of dirt that came off the car was shocking as I thought the car was spotless.

After Claying the car I then waxed it with Collinite 845, gave the tyres a dressing and cleaned the glass. The car now is stunning looking. The paint is like a mirror and I almost don't want to drive it anywhere as It might get dirty :eek:

The one down side to it was that I can now see the bleamishes and chips in the paint that I couldn't really see before and their bugging me!

Anyway, thanks for the info posted in here.